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Came out of my cave to make a gif and this happened so here you go
Cherry Blossom Festival in DC today. Peak of the blossoms! Love going downtown for this every year.
Looking Back: 1 Year
A year ago, I waved at my dad with my hiking pole in the pouring rain, setting off on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia. My 6-month adventure had begun. I was so high on life I almost couldn’t breathe. Grinning like a maniac, I stomped through mud puddles as big as I was and tried to ignore my pack weight. All of a sudden, I could see it – the plaque I’d heard so much about, seen countless photos of:
Hello, Springer Mountain and the start of the Trail! I giggled, throwing my hands up and looking across the mountains.
I finished my six months with an email to my boss from Greece after four other countries, telling him I was ready enough to come back to work. I started hiking knowing that the AT had plans for me, was going to teach me a lot – and it did. Life doesn’t go according to plan, and there is simple beauty in that. I didn’t get very far on the Trail last year – though that depends a bit on who you ask. I’ll finish it someday.
As Ent, I met fun-loving fellow hikers, new friends, Trail Angels, and the part of me that can sleep through the night alone in a tent, throw a mean foodbag line, and wake up to snow on the ground with laughter (even though we went to Town that day). ACO became my partner in crime for awhile, until she hitched a ride out. We healed most of our homesickness and what-did-we-get-ourselves-into together, finding a sunny day to keep going. The hiking community is extraordinary: everyone’s got your back, and you have theirs. Hitch a ride, goof off in town, stand drooling in a grocery store at the endless food you can’t fit in your pack. Recognize what people look like after a shower. On what became my last full day on the Trail, I ran, laughing, around camp to get every single inch of the footpath under my belt – then watched as five others followed suit. I hiked two 12-milers back to back, and groaned when my body protested. I hiked through 2 and a half solid days of rain, nursed hot spots, and managed to burn oatmeal.
And I miss it every day. This surprises non-Trail people. After all, I left it. It was rainy, and cold, and one of the hardest things I’ve ever done – true. But I loved it, and leaving it was just as hard. Mountain air is freeing. Campfires are like blankets to tuck you in at night. There is a wild sort of joy in carrying everything you need on your back. And fresh spring water? Nothing can compare.
Once I got back, I had to go again. I bounced around the US for awhile, and then embarked on a new journey: Southeast Asia. I visited my best friend in Hong Kong, joined Habitat for Humanity in Sri Lanka, toured Siem Reap and Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and spent a couple random nights in Thailand before flying home via Hawaii. Soon after that, my mom and I went to Greece to fulfill a 10-year dream. All of them hold special memories to me.
But the Trail – the Trail is another home. I miss it most when I’m not really paying attention, and all of a sudden it hits me: a fresh breeze, walking in my hiking boots, dreaming of times when I wouldn’t have to be afraid of getting hit by cars on a regular basis.
I feel happier than when I started a year ago. I’m more content. So for all you hikers setting off this year, cherish it. You may not finish, and that’s okay. Push yourself and give it your all, though: chances like this are rare. Love, Ent PS – in honor of my Trail-iversary, I dyed my hair again, more purplish this time:
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Days 8-9)
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Days 8-9) #habitatforhumanity #globalvillage #danceparty #orphanage #happiness
Dance Party Day
This was one of the harder mornings for me. A rude awakening from the weekend, but I was back at my favorite worksite. It’s hard to explain why I’ve enjoyed working there so much. Maybe just a combination of the masons, who humor me so well, the sweet, sweet grandmother, the neighborhood girl who is always there. Something about it. Anyway the morning was a lot of dirt moving, and…
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Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Day 7)
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Day 7) #marketplace #boattour #pictures #lagoon
Marketplace Wanderings
Ah, a day to sleep in! I did just that, making it to the hotel breakfast before it closed. Some people were planning to hit the marketplace and then a massage, so I was all in. I threw on sunscreen and grabbed my bandanna. Nine of us squeezed into 3 tuk-tuks. The downtown seems to center around a tall yellow clocktower in the center of a roundabout. Buildings no more than…
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I Owe You a Post!
I know, I know. That whole “scheduled posts” thing has been hilarious, eh? Well, I managed to underestimate the toll a new job would take on me. It’s been fun and exciting, and exhausting, too. When I get home, I’m just content to do absolutely nothing. I have been working on the rest of my posts, though, never fear. I’m just a few months behind when all of this actually happened…
So we’ll be…
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One-star yelp reviews of national parks are THE BEST!
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Day 6)
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Day 6) #travel #srilanka #elephants #buddha #temples #dances #tea #spices
Riding an elephant is a strange, almost surreal experience. And it was over all too soon. When we arrived at the Millennium Elephant Foundation, we learned about how they take care of older and sometimes abused elephants, and how their keepers, mahouts, stay with them during their time there. Then all of a sudden it was time to get on! I went with Brigit, climbing on behind her. It’s very bumpy…
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Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Days 3-5)
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Days 3-5) #travel #srilanka #habitatforhumanity #globalvillage #volunteering
Pacing and Playing
I now have a pink mosquito net above my bed. Today we were out the door by 8 AM. We switched jobs when we got to the worksite, and Thomas, Alice, John and I spent most of the morning moving bricks. We’d arrange them so the masons could access them easily, but they never had us lay any. Occasionally we would mix mortar, and deliver that. Alice and I carried one of the cement…
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Chapters
I interrupt the regularly scheduled travel recaps to bring you…today. In a few days, I’m going back to the “real world.” I’m packing up my life, again. I’m taking up my old job. I’m excited, I’m terrified. I’m not 100% sure of anything. It’s funny, people expect you to know what it is you learned about yourself during such an extended time off, right after you get back. That’s how it goes, you go…
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Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Days 1-2)
Travel Recap: Sri Lanka & Habitat for Humanity (Days 1-2) #travel #srilanka #habitatforhumanity #globalvillage #volunteering
Arrival and Meetings
I arrived safely in Colombo and managed to get through immigration and get my pack quickly. I met Amanda and Charlie in the airport. They are pretty cool. We waited together for the last three in chairs facing a small screen with an old World Cup game – Brazil v. Netherlands I think. Charlie watched our stuff while Amanda and I went to a café to get something to drink. I saw…
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Travel Recap: Hong Kong (Days 4-8)
Travel Recap: Hong Kong (Days 4-8) #travel #hongkong #journals
Big Buddha, 1600 Pandas, Boy Meets World
Last night we stayed up until almost 3 AM watching Mean Girls and Boy Meets World. It’s something I’ve loved visiting N – we can chill and be at a “home” as well as do touristy things.
We went back to Lantau Island, this time on a stunning day. We went to the MTR station and then took to Ngong Ping 360 cable car to see the Tian Tan Buddha – known as the…
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Travel Recap: Hong Kong (Days 2-3)
Western to Central, Man Mo Temple, Escalators, and Monkeys
We packed a lot into today, considering N and I both slept late again. N and her mother showed me around Western District and Central. After breakfast was made for us – something I’m still getting used to – I was on top of the sun and bug sprays. We went to a shop weirdly reminiscent of a small BJ’s or Costco – all American brands in relative bulk. I think the place was called Gateway. Then we went up to Hollywood Road in the area of Sheung Wan in search of lunch, also passing by Cat Street and a number of curio – curiosity – shops.
Lunch was a French-European place called The Press Room. It was the site of the Chinese Daily News/Hua Qiao Daily Newspaper in the 1920s. Man Mo Temple is in the middle of the Chinese residential district. 150 years old, it has been maintained and so sticks out against the skyscrapers behind it. It demands quiet devotion in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the city.
Dedicated to two gods, King Man and Holy King Kwan, the temple truly comes alive in its many coils of incense burning throughout the sanctuary.
In awe, I tried to take everything in: the sedan chairs used to carry statues of the gods and parades, the many offerings in front of various deities, huge cone-shaped coils of incense. N brought me 10 sticks of incense: you light them and then make a wish at various places, leaving several sticks behind in offering. I started to light them all at once and a woman came to help me get started. She put her hand over her mine to make sure each stick was lit, then had me perform a series of rituals, moving the incense from my head to the sky three times, then from my heart. I got several sharp surprises as ash landed on my arms and wrists. The woman told me to put three at a time as I prayed or made my wish, and sent me on my way. I set the first few, then went to a corner I liked best and set the last I had, all four, forgetting that the number four is very bad in Chinese. Another temple-goer saved me from apparent death by telling me this on his way out the door. I moved one to another ash-filled pot. There were two more parts of the temple, one that looked as though you would write a message to a deity and then slip it into one of many small doors under each inside the sanctuary. I didn’t dare try, and wouldn’t know what to do. Then we went to Graham Street.
Graham Street market is Hong Kong’s oldest continuously operating market: over 160 years. We passed all kinds of interesting food and vegetable stalls, including two that had what looked like giant cucumbers I’m told are white pumpkins, or possibly ash gourds. Enormous, at least 5 inches in diameter.
After the markets, we took the Mid-Levels Escalator Link, a series of escalators and steep “travelators” running up the hill 800 meters. It provides a free commute for the residents of the Mid-Levels, switching directions from up to down during the morning rush. It also offers interesting views of the city and Central. We got off the escalators, by then almost dripping sweat, and walked down some steep but beautiful steps to the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens. There we saw many kinds of monkeys and a sign for a raccoon – worthy of a space in the zoo here. Some of the monkeys really swung around, using ropes inside their cages to get a good starting swing.
It was so hot and humid out by this point that the leather on my sandals was melting onto my skin. I had to scrub my feet tonight to get it all off. We saw more animals, including loud bullfrogs and many birds, before walking home to AC, chai, and lychee (pronounced lee-chee here) with cherries. I’m exhausted, and loving all this. I’m also starting to think about the sanity of building a house in this kind of weather! Stanley, Dog Parking, and Lightshow Every morning a woman comes and turns down my bed and picks up my room. It is a strangeness I still can’t get my head around. N and I are not good at waking up early. I guess for that matter we’re no good at going to bed early, either. N’s mom gave us a ride to a bus stop to catch a bus to Stanley. Bus drivers always impress me with their ability to fearlessly drive down winding narrow roads at full speed. Hong Kong was no exception, as I got to see everything from the front seat of a double-decker. The views are magnificent – hills, ocean, houses. We passed the Dragon’s Back, a series of hills making up the famous Hong Kong hike – and the shape of a dragon. There was a big square space built into a large hotel/apartment complex so that the dragon could get through.
The mix of old and new here is powerful. In Stanley we walked through Stanley Market and made our way to Lucy’s for lunch. After lunch we browsed the extensive marketplace, with plenty of stalls to ooh and ahh over. Next we got ice cream and meandered along the waterfront, going down the Blake Pier, where many people were fishing or taking in the beautiful ocean view.
Stanley also has a number of dog-related World Records.
After I picked up some Hong Kong candy for a friend – and lychee Mentos – we hopped on the bus towards home. Soon N and I were off again, this time to take the Star Ferry over to Kowloon to see the lightshow on the buildings on Hong Kong island. It holds a Guinness World Record for best permanent lightshow.
There was music playing and the lights on the buildings were programmed to flash on and off and change colors with the music. Some even had green lasers. Then N and I went back to the Avenue of Stars to take in the skyline. My iPhone takes better pictures of the harbor at night than my relatively expensive camera. Go figure. We wound up at Crystal Jade again, which was if possible even more delicious than the first time. I’m going to go back to the States a dumpling snob. Mmmm.
Travel Recap: Hong Kong (Day 1)
Travel Recap: Hong Kong (Day 1) #travel #hongkong #thepeak #markets
Hong Kong + my best friend. What more could I ask for? We had a great time, balancing tourist attractions like The Peak, Big Buddha, and ferry rides with home-time, staying up until the wee hours giggling and talking. This is just day one!
The Flights
So. Many. Movies. My longest flight was from DC to Tokyo, over 14 hours. Each movie ticked off the time a little. I would watch a movie, then…
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Volunteering Ventures: The Rich, the Poor, and the Privileged
Volunteering Ventures: The Rich, the Poor, and the Privileged #traveling #habitatforhumanity #globalvillage
In the three weeks I have been gone from home, I have lived two different lives. For awhile, they were separated by countries, but now they are just lines that I walk. I observe. My first stop before beginning Habitat for Humanity was in Hong Kong. I spent a week hanging out with my best friend there, talking and getting to play tourist while being able to come backto a home, and not a sterile…
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Updated Plans (Life After the AT is What You Make of It)
I left the Trail over two months ago. And I’m here to tell the 70% of you who will join me: it does not suck. On the contrary, life’s pretty awesome right now. Since I left, I’ve worked on my novel, travelled to new cities, and planned a trip ‘round the world.
Where Have I Been?
You may recall I dashed around California for a week in May. For June, I flew down to Nashville practically on a whim and housesat for a friend I’d never met in person. This trip had added excitement because I flew in three prop planes, which is an experience I recommend everyone have at least once.
For two weeks, I collected fresh eggs from their chickens, never-ending strawberries and mint from their garden, and unnecessary amounts of Netflix. I spent time with a cousin I hadn’t seen in maybe 20 years, saw the Nashville Parthenon, and hung out at a honky tonk as a traveling tavern rolled by.
There was a tornado watch, which made for an exciting, terrifying, and sleepless night. Not being from a place that often has tornados, I heard no freight train sound but saw what looked like a spinny sort of cloud and ran for the inner bathroom, grabbing the dog and unwilling cat on the way. Nothing happened.
My friend and her family brought back a puppy, so we had puppy-time and child-time and tourist-time for about a week. I explored Nashville, and my highlight was a backstage tour of the Grand Ole Opry, though Country Music Hall of Fame was pretty cool, too. Then I was off again, this time for a nanosecond stop through DC to see a few people and experience the utter weirdness of surprising your coworkers in a brand new office while still on a leave of absence. I was able to meet with my cover artist for my book, which is all kinds of exciting. A friend and I wandered Old Town before splitting an entire (expensive) bottle of champagne. He pulled up to the station as I watched my train arrive, so all’s well that ends well. Two hours later, I was dragging my suitcase through Charlottesville, Virginia. It didn’t take me very long to realize I was in the wrong place at the wrong time, and so I cancelled everything and moved my flights up, getting home the day after Father’s Day. It’s only hard to explain if you’ve never felt that way before. Maybe it was my Trail part two: not where I needed to be. The idea of sitting on the front porch of my parents’ house watching the sun set over the mountains, or even a thunderstorm, was much more appealing than aimless wandering through a town I’d already wandered through.
Where Am I Going?
Has it been great? Yes. Will it get even greater? Yes! In less than two weeks, I leave for Hong Kong to visit my best friend. It was one of the first things I thought of when I left the Trail, and now we’re making it happen. After that, I’m off to Sri Lanka to build houses with Habitat for Humanity. Next? Well, something. And after the something, I travel to Greece with my mom for a mother-daughter trip 10 years in the making. Thanks for the mindset, AT: If not now, when?
If the Trail taught me anything, it’s flexibility. Things won’t go according to plan, and that’s okay. What do you do with the lemons? I admit I don’t always make lemonade, but I’m able to more and more. For example, we were supposed to go to Thailand with Habitat. But then Thailand began martial law, a military coup, and a curfew (now lifted), so Habitat followed the State Department’s advice and opted to reroute all of us. Now we are headed for Sri Lanka*, and I have my flights and visa and everything. I was pretty excited about Thailand, as I’d spent all this time learning about it, but now that I’m learning about Sri Lanka, I know it’ll be great. I’m excited to interact with new people and give back to the world community. I mean, we’re going to build them a house. How cool is that?
*Sri Lanka got hot recently, too, but not quite as hot as Thailand
The AT flexibility lesson threw me another curveball, just to be sure I’d get it. I’d finally booked my trip with a small group adventure company through India and Nepal, after waiting for my new travel-ready credit card to arrive. So then I looked into this whole visa thing. I’ve been really lucky in my previous world travels – none required a visa I couldn’t just get at the port of entry, usually an airport. With two weeks to spare, I frantically ran around collecting documents and applications and photos to mail to the Indian Consulate in New York, only to realize a day later that it was far too risky to mail my passport and have it processed and returned in time. I’m still not clear on why certain countries require the original passport to issue a tourist visa, but they do, and so I can’t go to India. Not this year, anyway. It was a disappointing and stressful day. But I did finally take a breath and say, “I am going to Hong Kong to see my best friend, and I am volunteering in Sri Lanka, and later I am going to Greece.” So now I’m working on figuring out what comes after Sri Lanka, if anything. Do I take a trip through Cambodia? Do I visit every Hawaiian island and spend time with my brother? Both? Neither? No matter what, these six months have been and will be filled with incredible experiences. I met some of my favorite people on the AT, and I’ll meet more wherever I go next.
Missing the Trail: Check
My family and I do a lot of Trail Magic, and I miss the Trail. There’s no denying that. I went for a hike in the pouring rain and loved every minute of it. More recently my parents and I meandered along a few local trails, including the AT, and delivered a couple of beers and Snickers to the shelter nearest us. I felt like I was home when I was walking the AT. It felt right, and it was awesome to be back out there. I wrote in the logbook, donated my pen, signed it Ent. I saw that at least one hiker I met, LoJack, had already been through. Another I met at Hawk Mountain Shelter, now called Sea Biscuit (Biscuit for short), had stayed with my parents just days before I got home from my Nashville trip. Another night we had a thruhiker, Lighthouse, and I was so excited I could have talked with him forever. Hiker midnight came fast.
So that's it. Life after the Trail doesn't have to suck. It takes a little time to come to terms with leaving early, but then you have to get off your couch and make the most of your time here. You're not going to get it back (the same goes for all you hikers still out there - keep rockin' it!)
This post brought to you by a tall glass of chocolate milk.