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Bibliography
Friendship, E. (2008). Pattern Cutting for Men’s Costume. London: A&C Black Publishers
Peacock, J. (2006). Costume 1066 to the Present. 2nd ed. London, UK: Thames & Hudson Ltd.
Pinterest (2014). Independent Project Board. [online] Available from:http://www.pinterest.com/marshallvictori/independent-project/ [Accessed 16th April 2014]
Waugh, N. (1987). The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. UK: Theatre Arts Books.
Final Evaluation
This project has been a massive learning curve from making garments to a high standard to getting the work done in such a short time limit. Working with a professional company has been a big step in the way I look at how I construct the garment. I have felt that I have needed to quality control all my work so that the finished garment is to a high standard suitable for the National Theatre. When working in this short amount of time I have felt that I can’t plan too far ahead into the future as a little knock back can make a big difference to my work plan. I feel that I need to learn how long each step takes to be able to plan my work successfully in the future.
I have really enjoyed making these garments even though it has been stressful; I have welcomed the challenge and feel I have managed it effectively. I feel that I’d like to do menswear again however I don’t want to continue tailoring as a specialism. I would like to be able to have more challenges again like the frock coat and trousers but feel that next year I would like to focus more on garments for film rather than theatre.
I have learnt a lot in this project about construction of the garments. For the frock coat I have learnt how the different canvases help the way the garment stays together, therefore I can use this in future garments if I need to make them sturdier. The decoration on the frock coat was one of the reasons why I picked it so I could refine my hand sewing skills. This was a challenge as the braid I was given wasn’t symmetrical, but feel that it still looks aesthetically pleasing. I have managed to use part machine stitch and part hand sewing of the braid so I can get it done in the time limit. I feel that I have managed to hide my sewing quite easily, even though the garment will be used predominantly on stage, I feel that I should still make it as if every last stitch will be seen. I personally wouldn’t have chosen the fabrics but feel that the finished garment looks good.
For the trousers I have learnt that the same processes as I have previously used on different garments have all come together to create this one. This made things slightly easier for me as I knew the techniques just had to put them into practice in a different way. Again for the trousers I would’ve picked a lining fabric that matched the top fabric rather than a darker colour.
Next time I need to research into the garments more on how to make them to become more independent. I feel that I have been able to work out the rest of the processes on the two garments with help of other peers. I have relied quite a bit on the help of tutors as I have never made these garments before but feel this could have been different if I had more time to research.
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Final Photos - 19th Century Fall Front Trousers
Final Photos - 18th Century Frock Coat
Weekly Reflection
Week 6
This week has been less stressful than last week and I have been able to get my head down and get the garments done. I had taken on helping out with the first year project of being a model in La Passarella and therefore on Monday I had a hair and make up test and on the Friday I had to go to the dress parade. This took up a fair bit of time but I have managed to work around this and easily get my work done. The frock coat took a little bit longer than I thought it would to finish but I still managed to get it done by Tuesday afternoon and without rushing. The set back for me was the cuffs as I had a bit of a challenge working out which way they had to go. I feel that I should have made the cuffs bigger, but as so many frock coats have different sized cuffs it's difficult to pin point which era it is from. Using Norah Waugh's Cut of Men's Clothes, I measured out one of the cuffs and recreated a pattern for this. This was definitely a learning curve of how to be independent with patterns and using research of historical patterns to aid decision making.
I received the new buttons from the National Theatre on Wednesday. These are the two options they sent me:
I prefer the bottom buttons using the choice of different sizes, I really don't like the top buttons as they don't match in colour and also I don't like the shield and crown emblem. The bottom buttons fit with matching the leaves to the braid. These have been placed on the centre front, cuffs and below the pocket similar to historical frock coats, however I wanted to put more down the centre front and a couple above the pleats on the back but I didn't have enough so have had to leave 4 on the centre front. I feel that it would've looked better with more buttons down the front but I've had to deal with what I've been given.
For the trousers I was surprised at how quickly these came together and I have managed to fully complete them rather than just doing the front flap. I found the techniques for putting these together were very similar to things I have done before, like the placket on the trousers. I feel that these challenged me to think about the patterns I was given and that I had to make up my own patterns to create the lining pieces and the placket. Also I learnt that you can't always assume the patterns you have been given will be correct and some will be missing so will have to make your own from what you've already been given. I should have over locked the seam allowance of the trousers to stop them from fraying as much.
Work Plan for 19th - 23rd
Monday 19th: 9am - 10.30 - Photoshoot for concept in context Slip stitch sleeve lining Add cuffs to bottom of sleeves Add patches over pleats in back of coat Tuesday 20th: Finish off frock coat if needed Hand in POP Essay Wednesday 21st: Start trousers 1.30pm - Summer briefing Do PowerPoint presentation Thursday 22nd: Continue trousers 1.30 - 4.30 - Watch IP presentations Friday 23rd: 9.30 - 12.30 - Watch IP presentations 9.40 - National Theatre presentation Finish off trousers I feel that this work plan is very achievable and I feel I will get the trousers done in plenty of time.
Weekly Reflection
Week 5
This week has been horrendously stressful as I have felt there’s too much work to do in the time limit given. As a compromise I will only be making the front flap of the trousers as this is the difficult bit, then after hand in I will have to complete them as they are for a client they will need to be finished. The most challenging part of this week has been putting the sleeves in! I’ve had to ease so much fabric into the sleeve hole that it was difficult to stop gathers on the outside. I had to redo these several times to make them lay nicer. I haven’t made many sleeves before, none this difficult, so this was new to me to have to ease in so much fabric. Putting in the lining got quite technical with trying to work out where to sew the lining so that there was a small pleat on the inside hem. I feel that working out these challenges is one of my strengths as I can get my head around them quickly which will be good for future difficulties as a maker. For the cuffs the decoration was difficult to work out how to lay it like the centre front as the braid isn’t symmetrical. Also some of the motifs have been sewn over each other so I had to cut through one motif to get the other in tact this meant wastage of motifs. Sewing this down was really quick as I had previously done this on the centre front so I knew what I was doing. Once I know what I’m doing I can easily get my head down and get on with it quickly. I know what I have to do next week to get the frock coat finished so should be able to get this done by Monday evening/Tuesday morning. Then I can focus on the trouser flap. I feel that this will be plenty of time to get the trousers finished to a good standard without any rushing. Even though this week has been stressful, I am proud of my work and how good the sewing is looking.
Meeting with Fiona from the National Theatre
Today Fiona came to the university from the National Theatre to see the progress on our garments. She was happy with how the frock coat looks but my only concern was the colour of the buttons I had been sent as they did not match the pink fabric or the gold braid at all. She will therefore send me some gold buttons that will hopefully match better. This may take a little time to arrive however the buttons can be the last thing to be done so I can carry on constructing the frock coat whilst waiting.
Weekly Reflection
Week 4
This week I have started to panic about how much time is left. It took me over a day to make the pockets, decorate and sew them on. I didn't plan for this to take this long and I'm now starting to see the finishing of the frock coat to take a lot longer than planned, however I can't tell quite how long as I am unsure on the next processes. The decoration on the pocket was a pain as the pocket was too small to put the braid on like the centre front, therefore I had to cut out the individual motifs. This was difficult as some of the motifs were sewn over each other so when cutting out one motif I'd have to chop through another and wouldn't be able to use it. I had to plan what I could use to make both pockets similar as again like the centre front the braid wasn't symmetrical so both pockets are not exactly the same. Once I had decided on the placement it was easy and quick to get it sewn on as I had done this with the centre front. For next time I think I would've made the pocket shape slightly longer and tried to make the points of the pocket more prominent.
I have prepared myself for the next week by cutting out my lining and getting this all tacked together. The lining that the National Theatre sent me was very thin and therefore the canvas could easily be seen through, luckily I had enough lining to double it up and now the canvas can't be seen. I will have to remember when hand sewing the lining that I have to catch both layers. This shouldn't be too hard but I just have to keep this in mind when sewing.
I feel that I won't get the trousers done in the time limit given as they aren't as simple as first thought therefore I will have to speak to the tutors about this problem. I feel that I am trying to give this frock coat all my effort yet it's not getting done as quickly as I wanted and more steps to get it finished keep coming up.
Looking forward I need to spend as much time in uni as possible to get the work done.
Weekly Reflection
Week 3
This week has been very productive. I have a clearer idea of where I need to go in the next coming week. After tutorials with Mark we decided the best way to use the canvas is to sew it onto a thin cotton then flat tack to the top fabric. This is quicker than hand sewing it to the top fabric. For my lining the fabric I have been supplied with is quite thin, so when I come to cutting out I am hoping I have enough to do a double layer of lining so that the canvas underneath will not show through. I have learnt that you have to deal with what you've been given and work out the best way to create a good quality final garment.
This goes for the braid as I was given some white lace and some gold braid. They don't match with the top fabric therefore I have decided to just use the gold braid. I have had to plan out where the gold braid is going on the whole frock coat as I only have a limited amount of gold braid. Unfortunately I haven't been given quite as much as I wanted so I wont be able to do as much decoration as I wanted to do on the frock coat. I won't be able to put any decoration around the pocket only on the flap itself. I had quite a bit of trouble working out what to do with the braid as it's not symmetrical therefore both sides of the frock coat won't be quite the same. Also due to the time scale I have I decided to machine stitch most of the decoration on and then hand stitch the last bits. I have managed to get this all complete in this week from taking the pieces home and using my time at the weekend to get it complete as I also miss out on studio time due to the bank holiday. This means I can continue with the pocket on Wednesday and then onto the main construction. I feel that my time management has been very good this week and I will try to continue this in the next couple of weeks, using the late night study time to get things done on time.
I have tacked a 0.5cm line from the centre front to make sure the braid was lined up equally on both sides.
Looking forward I feel that I need to plan what I will be doing each week so that I can find out how to do things with Mark when he is available then I can get on with them in the studio time.
Revised Work Plan
When starting off this project I didn't know how to construction the frock coat and trousers. After the first couple of weeks I have now decided to focus on the construction of the frock coat first and then leave the last week and half to make the trousers.
Weekly Reflection
Week 2
This week has been very strenuous and I am behind on my work plan due to not realising how much work I had to actually do. I still need to cut out the canvas and lining of my frock coat before sewing which shouldn't take too long as I won't need to pattern match like I had to with the frock coat. I have realised when making a garment out of a patterned material that I will have to get a lot of material to be able to have the pattern flow into each piece. This also means there's quite a bit of wastage of fabric therefore I need to be able to find cheaper fabrics when buying for myself.
I feel I have achieved very little in the three days I was at uni, however it took a lot of time to pattern match which was very confusing!
Looking forward I feel that I will need to get things done reasonably quickly to make sure everything is done for hand in and use the late night study sessions. I am concerned that I will have to machine stitch the decoration on the frock coat to be able to get everything done in time.
Weekly Reflection
Week 1
I felt this week has been very insightful as I know exactly what I have to make but will need a few pointers on the best way to put all the pieces together. I feel that the work plan will help me to get everything done on time as long as I stick to it.
My main concern is the decoration on the frock coat, after researching I can see how much decoration there is but I'm unsure if I will be able to hand sew it all on in the time limit I have. I feel once I have got started I can see if I am on track with my work plan and then see what the best way to go about the decoration is.
I feel that the trip to the National Theatre was a great help in knowing what they want and see examples of how they work so I can produce a garment of a similar standard.
Research - Pinterest
This research is for ideas of how I can put the decoration onto the frock coat. It will help me use the lace and braid to place it where it was historically positioned.
Most of the decoration goes along the centre front from the hem and all the way around the neckline. The decoration also goes on the pocket flap and around it. There is also matching braid or lace on the cuffs either all over or just near the top of the cuffs. I would like to try and place my decoration in these areas focusing on the centre front and pockets depending on how long it takes to apply it.
All the pins above can be found from:
Pinterest (2014). Independent Project Board. [online] Available from: http://www.pinterest.com/marshallvictori/independent-project/ [Accessed 16th April 2014]
National Theatre Trip 17th April
I had the opportunity to go to the National Theatre workrooms and the National Theatre Hire Department where I was able to ask questions about what they want and what techniques they use to make menswear.
The makers at the National Theatre make their garments in the quickest way possible using as little hand sewing as necessary, even for the decoration on the frock coats which I was very surprised at. They do this due to the short turn around they have for the costumes, the stitching it neat and not visible on stage. I think when I do the decoration on my frock coat I need to see how much time I have available for me to successfully hand sew as much decoration on as possible.
The pictures below show some of the decoration on the frock coats that the Hire Department had in their store. I can use this to help me with the placement of my decoration.
The decoration is the same all the way down to the hem and around the neck line.
The white lace has been machine stitched on with a white thread in the middle of the decoration. The gold has a straight stitch through the middle.
This decoration has been machine stitched at either side with a zigzag line in a similar colour thread to the decoration.
The lace on this has been layered up to create a different pattern with the gold braid machine stitched in a straight line.
This decoration has been made of different motifs placed to create one whole braid.
I will use Norah Waugh's, The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 to help make a pattern for the cuff as they didn't supply this. Also I can use it to help me change the pocket if I feel it doesn't look right with the rest of coat.
For the trousers the National Theatre wanted two tabs at the back with eyelets on them and tied with a shoe lace which they have provided. Below are some examples of what they wanted from their existing stock:
Fabrics
These fabrics have been supplied by the National Theatre for the 18th century frock coat. I will be looking forward to using this fabric but I have some doubts on how the gold trim and white lace will work against the dusty pink top fabric. I am unsure however as to why someone would want a pink frock coat...
National Theatre Briefing
At the first briefing we split up the several garments that the National Theatre would like us to make. I managed to get my first choice of the 18th century frock coat as my complex make and a pair of drop front trousers as my simpler make. The National Theatre has provided me with some references of what they want me to produce below:
The National Theatre Hire Department also provided us with samples of a similar garment that I will be producing. These will help me to see how the National Theatre makers have constructed their garments, therefore I can use these techniques in my own work. The garment below is the full swing style 18th century frock coat that I will be producing with decoration similar to the examples above.