Edwardian fashion, 1901-1913
1901 shows heavy blousing on the front of the bodice, resulting in a low, curved silhouette. Collars are high, usually boned, and the feet are almost entirely concealed. Corsets in this period had a straight spoon busk rather than a curved one, which pushed the hips backwards and resulted in the swooping ‘s-bend’ silhouette. Skirts flare outwards towards the hem. Fabrics are rich, deep colours. There is a sobriety in decoration after Victoria’s death.
One of the most distinguishable trends in 1903 was the bishop sleeve. Though bishop sleeves were fashionable in much of the early Edwardian era, they reached their zenith in this year. Blousing, and the front waist growing lower, has resulted in the centre-back waist reaching a high point. Skirts become fuller. Hats grow in size, and the appearance of the body is like that of a cone. The gait is made sweeping by the skirts.
The waist creeps higher in anticipation of the ‘directoire’ era. Bishop sleeves are out, favouring a variation on the gigot or leg-o’-mutton sleeve of the 1890s. Bolero jackets popular, emphasising the small of the back. Blousing is being replaced by a high bosom with ‘drooping’ ornamentation: the lapels of jackets hang freely over the curve of the supported breast. The skirt now has a more trumpet-like appearance, and many dresses are cut ‘princess style’, with no seam separating the skirt and bodice. Accessories often worn–most notably the parasol, often said to have been used like a cane in response to the heavy hairstyles and hats, which were embellished with florals, ribbons, and birds. Fabrics are now soft, with pale colours including lilac, pink, grey, and brown becoming fashionable. There is a stress on deportment, with much posing taking place.
The ‘directoire’ era. The waist is high, and the skirt is cut above the natural waist, particularly in the back. The collar is still high, but square-cut necklines are now acceptable. Hats have reached monstrous size, and they are made with very large inner circumference to be supported by the equally large hairstyles. Clean, tailored lines. The skirt begins to grow less full. Colours continue in much the same way, with soft purples, greys, and blues taking precedence.
The ‘tailormade’ suit becomes popular. Hats remain large, and the skirt circumference narrows. Deep cuffs, embellished lapels, and flat-panelled skirt fronts with side pleats are popular. The corset has lost all trace of the s-bend, now reducing the size of the hips in favour of the ‘long-line’ style, highlighted by the long-line jackets. Skirts now cover the ankle, but the foot is visible from beneath it. Stripes incredibly fashionable. Movement is now quicker thanks to the skirt rising slightly.
Hats begin to shrink, and the waistline begins to descend. The waist is accented by belts, sashes, or by tailoring in the coat or jacket. Some jackets and blouses are cut with the bodice and sleeve together, and the tailoring of the sleeve becomes looser and rounder. Emphasis is growing on the hips, aided by hems reaching minimal circumference; they are called ‘hobble’ skirts. The ankle is now visible. Walking is slower due to the skirt, and there is a backwards ‘trip’ to the step.
I hope this has been somewhat useful! I’ve used a variety of sources for this guide, including Patterns of Fashion, La Mode Illustree, and The History of Fashion 1066-1930, but as usual take things with a pinch of salt–this guide is intended only to help you pick out the key trends in certain years, allowing you to show that off to friends when the occasion arises. Of course, I’ve also only used one image per year (and not every year is included), so do go ahead and do some further research and find similarities if you wish!
Let me know if there’s something you’d like to see a guide on, or a description of, to the best of my amateur ability!
ko-fi.com/edwardiansuggestions
areudirty
izzy806
amandla
blakekathryn
stormborns
vaporwave
ellievsbear
gracieabrams
dailybridgerton
