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Dateline: sometime in London 1977, in a basement club on a corner site at the top end of Neal St near Shaftesbury Avenue. Location: the Roxy, the punk venue which took on the name of the space’s previous occupant, a gay disco. On the street above, fruit and veg from Covent Garden market stalls come to die, slowly, in the gutter. In the toilets below, young (and not so young) women and men take drugs – snorting amphetamine sulphate, mostly.

Sniffin’ Glue: A fanzine that epitomized punk

Club Roxy

Stratocaster and a can of Ronson lighter fluid, symbols of this time

The Clash, ICA

Glue sniffing. Taking of any drugs is to escape the reality. This fits the current zeitgeist. The way they sniffed glue is as follows: you tipped some glue into a container of some kind, maybe a paper bag, cupped it to your face, inhaled the fumes and let them mess around with your nervous system.

Photocopied punk fanzine Sniffin’ Glue, Ballardian Mark P, rock and roll magazine.

Toby Mott: punk fanzines, posters and ephemera.

#the roxy

Concluding Weekend's review of the modern age

British post war “youth culture” emerged primarily in response to the American popular culture centred on rock ‘n’ roll.

Punk: sex pistols, spit, bondage, swastikas, drugs of choice are glue and amphetamines.

Multicultural nature of post war Britain was crucial to the formation of many subcultures; each one should be seen as a response to the presence of black culture in Britain.

The contradiction of youth culture: desire to express individuality by wearing the same clothes as your mates, and rebelling against capitalism at the same time being a perfect capitalist slave.

1971 Misuse of Drugs Act.

1977 The Sex Pistols' God Save The Queen charts at number two in Silver Jubilee week.

Research question

Problem: Nowadays the availability to buy cheap clothes is only increasing. Consumers do not attach any value to their purchases and they stay unused or are thrown away. The result of this is a lot of waste and means in other words that the product does not reflect the true impact it got on the environment.

Goal: to create durable garments which tell a story and will be seen as an investment.

Question: What are elements which can be implemented to tell a story through a garment? What will add more value to these pieces and how can this be done in a sustainable way?

#problem #goal #question

Spending significant money on each piece of clothing means seeing a purchase as an investment, not a cheap (and exploitative) thrill.

To spend more on a garment forces people to think about how much they want it, how much they will wear it, and whether they think the value it offers is worth a significant cost. If one will buy the garment eventually it will be an investment.

The Insula, a part of the brain which registers pain, plays a role in our purchase decisions the pleasure of acquiring is weight against the pain of paying, when the prices will decline, the pain will do the same. This will result in making shopping easy entertainment

The amount of thought and detail designer put in their clothes can make a difference. High quality fabrics or expensive construction methods will do as well.

#spendmore #morepain #easyshopping #improvements

The fashion industry is pushing the world to the brink of crisis. Here's how we got there.

With so much cheap clothes available, so much more gets thrown away.

By speed of production and low prices, consumers are blinded by the consequences of our purchases such as the environmental damage.

There is more disposable fashion, but one doesn’t know where are these clothes are going after it is not good enough anymore.

Second life to clothing: take-back or recycling programs.

#toocheap #thrownaway #environment #secondlife

According to the environmental journalist Lucy Siegle, most women now buy half their bodyweight annually in clothes. The writer's new book, To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? (£12.99, Fourth Estate), states that the average female invests in 62lb of clothing each year, has upwards of 20 garments hanging in her wardrobe that she has never worn and owns four times the amount today than she did in 1980.

The average female has more than 20 garments hanging in her wardrobe that she has not even worn.

Culture of celebrity endorsement is a reason why we buy so much clothes we actually don’t need or like. At first a lot of people were only interested in what celebrities wore on the red carpet. Now this has changed and there is also an interest in their off-duty wardrobes. The outfits they wear from luxury brands are not affordable for many people. The copies although are.

Online shopping destination: allows to purchase clothing by only clicking a button.

Democration of fashion: the shows are viral because of the internet and fashion bloggers. The see now buy now option. It all makes it easier to copy and sell cheap clothes to a wide variety of people. Because of money it is almost impossible to copyright designer clothes.

Full-blown addicition: fuels a consumer by showing what they might, or might not, like to wear six months down the line.

Luxury apparel can be more complex and because of that harder to copy. This shows also in the price of the clothing.

Buy carefully and buy less, the planet will only benefit for that.

#toomuch #celebrityendorsement #onlineshopping #climax #copies

Fashion is one of the world's most polluting industries. But there are solutions out there, and many more in development.

There is now an availability of an endless supply of cheap clothing. This gives people to express themselves and show their identity to the world without even spending a lot of money.

Consumption rate from the world: 80 billion items of clothing per year.

The idea of seeing clothes as disposable is increasing. The awareness about the negative impact of our shopping habits need to be changed, every purchase has to be less impulsive.

Waste is increasing because of the retailers who are focussing more on price than quality. As a result of this, garments will only survive a few washes.

Change of styles is also a reason for the increasing waste.

New innovations concerning recycling or less toxic materials.

More transparency about environmental and social impacts. If this will be done, shoppers will feel a connection between what they buy and the environmental and social impact.

#what's working #reclaim #waste #fast fashion #reclaim fashion

Shared indivdualism

Artificial ownership: access to products instead of own one.

It shouts that we need the embrace that we have a certain degree of freedom of speech, freedom of movement and freedom of activity. It’s about presenting different positions and different viewpoints. It takes someone looking at a situation with fresh eyes to present a renewed interpretation.

You cannot do it alone. Extern factors play a role in the act of an individual.

Economy: “The rise of China isn’t only an economic event. It’s a cultural one. The ideal of a harmonious collective may turn out to be as attractive as the ideal of the American Dream.”

Contradiction of liberalism: there is a danger in freedom. Too much choice possibilities can make people unhappy and uncertain.

Consumerism

Cooperation as a solution 58% of people think the current system is failing (hope) Simple living is getting more important: every civilization had a movement like this

In the future, there is a higher demand for sustainable, durable products Aesthetics need to change to stop the mass consumption, a solution can be to focus on recycling or upcycling. Innovation: to rethink old products instead of produce new ones.

Left/Right

Left: Antifa, Black life matter

Right: White supremacy (see the tolerance towards black people as a problem, they are scared that they will take their places. They give them the fault of something they did not actually do), Neo-nazis, Racist skinheads, Traditional white supremacists, Christian Identity adherents, White supremacist prison gangs

Escapism:

What is the outcome? Consumers want to escape and is in search for a solution. Is escapism a good or bad thing? Does it shape itself in a romantic/fantasy world? Or are we going towards a nightmare? How is the sharing economy going to look like? Are all cultures connected? Multicultural? Or do we connect on an intellectual level?

Since people want to disconnect from current conventions, art becomes more conceptual. This realises an escape and free feeling. People can hide themselves in their fantasy world. Irony is also important in current art developments. The approach is how they want.

In a world were a lot of fake news is happening, it also gets more important to know the truth. There is a small line between certainty and uncertainty.

Instead of the physical object, concepts are getting more important VR/AR experiences Contradiction: crave to the past versus romanticize of the future

Story:

1. What did we see? 2. What is the outcome of this? 3. What is the cause? 4. What is the consequence? 5. What are the feelings?

Requirements images:

Feeling

Colour

Shape

Material

Print

Texture

Again this year we saw loads of chairs and other familiar objects – at a time when many are questioning the need for yet another chair design. Our answer to them is an unequivocal yes, especially in light of the chair and cabinet created by Finnish graduate Tuomas Tolvanen as a tribute to his grandmother, whose intensifying dementia is taking its terrible toll.

Creating a space where you are free from the social atrocities which are all around by being conceptual.

#escape #conceptual #different #space

Mike Mitchell has created a symbol of protest against US president Donald Trump, which features the number 45 turned on its side to resemble a swastika

The American artist came up with the symbol back in February to use at protests against Trump's inauguration. The design features the number 45 in reference to Trump being the 45th US president. It is intended to recall anti-Nazi imagery that sees the swastika covered in the same way.

"I was trying to come up with some protest paraphernalia and this was part of that," Mitchell told Dezeen. "It came about pretty organically, playing with the number 45 and leading to the not unfamiliar anti-Nazi imagery we've all seen."

Both designers attribute their use of Nazi symbolism to the president's views on race and social inclusion.

"I think his presence gives strength to creatives and highlights the need for them," the artist said. "At the moment, he hasn't managed to make any progress towards suppressing free speech, and as long as that continues, I think most creative industries will come out of this administration on top."

#protest #art #antinazi #race #social #speech

To view the world through a supremacist lens is to live in the complicity of false equivalences, to willfully color malice as virtue.

Before America formed the democratic state, its grand project was the cultivation of white supremacy—a cunning, ravenous invention pillared by social divisions. In his essay “On Being White … and Other Lies,” James Baldwin referred to whiteness as a “genocidal lie,” writing how white supremacy “is a vision as remarkable for what it pretends to include as for what it remorselessly diminishes, demolishes or leaves totally out of account.” In this way, it became a kind of sight, a gaze through which to view one’s version of the world. To view the world through a white supremacist lens is to exist as an antithesis to progress. It is to live in the complicity of false equivalences, to shroud your scope in dangerous fabrications like “alt-left,” and to willfully color malice as virtue (days ago protesters heinously chanted “Jews will not replace us” and “blood and soil” during the rally, the latter of which the Anti-Defamation League classifies as hate speech). With brute intention, white supremacy lives surrounded by lies. And aren’t lies nothing if not intoxicating instruments to brandish in times of inconvenience?

#socialdevision #lies #differenttimes #inconveniences #whitesupremacy #extremism

Ten political parties leading the far-right surge on the continent.

A rise of far-right parties in European politics.

Charachteristics: - Anti Islam - Stop atoning for Nazi crimes - Nationalistic - Anti-Semitism - Neo Fascist - Anti Globalist - Anti immigrant rhetoric - Support of strong welfare state

#rightpolitics #protest #groups #extremism

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