Is that a giraffe or is that my mother?- A long belated post about mid semester break+visits from Mom&Gram!
Hello again! The past few weeks have been really really busy, so I apologize in advance for a (VERY) lengthy post!
Part 1: IES Spring (fall?) break- Joburg & Kruger
((the part where most of my pictures are on my friends computer so I'll have to upload those later....)
Soon after my last post, I embarked upon my exciting mid-semester break adventures-
First, this meant getting on a bus at 4am with my fellow IES-ers to the airport, where we hopped on a plane to Johannesburg. Immediately after arriving, we were whisked off to the apartheid museum in Joburg—
The museum chronicles the factors that contributed to the rise and fall of the apartheid state here in South Africa, and currently includes an exhibit about Mandela, in commemoration of his recent passing. The museum is thorough and difficult. Much of the information I had already heard, but I was surprised to learn that the most violent years of the apartheid era were between 1990 and 1994. For me, the story I had always heard was that Mandela was released in 1991, hope was restored, and by 1994 he was president and South Africa was a democracy. Even after Mandela’s release from prison, however, the nation was in chaos. This chaos came from indecision on how to move forward. The apartheid regime was falling, but there wasn’t complete consensus on how the regime should finally crumble, and what would replace it. This is just one of the reasons why Mandela’s leadership was so critical- he brought South Africa out of a confusing and violent time, calling people to peace from all ends of the political spectrum.
After this experience, we boarded our bus again and went to get lunch and begin our bicycle tour of Soweto. Soweto is South Africa’s largest township- or, actually, a collection of townships (Soweto stands for South Western Townships). Soweto houses nearly 3 million people and at least 13 languages are spoken there. It is Winnie Mandela’s hometown, and Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela’s homes are there as well (possibly the only street on Earth where two Nobel peace prize winners live). We also saw the Hector Pieterson Memorial, at the site of a mass student protest against Afrikaans being the language of instruction in schools during apartheid (as it was not a relevant language to the students, and many of the teachers themselves didn’t speak it). Students gathered in protest, where the police opened fire. More than 400 people were killed, including Hector Pieterson, a 13-year-old boy. A photograph taken of a friend carrying his body from the scene became an iconic symbol of the brutality of apartheid. At the end of the tour we were exhausted and kind of sore from the biking, but quickly after dinner hopped on some minibuses to go see a soccer match at the world cup stadium! It was really exciting and I bought a Vuvuzela to cheer on the Kaizer chiefs- who lost, 0-1. That night, I slept in an adorable B&B in Soweto and woke super early to get back on the road for the next leg of the adventure.
That day was mostly spent in the bus, driving through the “panorama route” which was a beautiful drive with stops at an incredible canyon and a delicious pancake restaurant. Eventually we arrived in Nelspruit, where we stayed at a backpackers hostel. Knowing we’d be up again before 4am for our full day safari drive, I went to bed really early.
Still dark, the next day, we all stumbled out of bed, bundled up, and hopped into our safari vans. Immediately upon settling into the van, we realized how excited we were and began singing lion king, much to the annoyance of our driver and guide, Dan.
(Leah, Sam and Victoria aboard the safari van)
The day was incredible. We saw the big 5 (lions, leopards, buffalo, elephants and rhinos) before 8:30 am, got some incredible pictures, and learned a lot about the animals and the plant life from Dan. Dan also liked to make fun of us, because we were…. Well… excitable.
My friend Sam: “Oh my gosh, baby Zebras, so cute so cute!”
Dan: “Those get POUNDED by the lions”
Also, at one point we saw, in our distance, a red shape in a tree. We all shouted to Dan to stop the van so we could back up to get a closer look. He backtracked on the road considerably, while we excitably discussed what it could possibly be-
“a red animal?”
“In a tree?”
“a big bird?”
Then, looking through her binoculars, my friend Leah declared
“Oh my gosh it’s a dead animal”
suddenly we were all quiet.
“it’s a skinned animal?” Leah said, looking closer, “A skinned.. impala?”
to this, we were all upset
“how could that happen?”
“what would do that?”
“why?”
(being dramatic, because we are)
At this point, Dan asked to see the binoculars. He looked and looked, waited, and looked some more. We waited for him to explain this tragedy.
He looked up at us and sighed.
“That” he said, “is a tree branch.” And drove off, exasperated at his van full of overly excitable teenage girls, as we began to laugh uncontrollably at our own ridiculousness.
So Dan was hilarious and made fun of us a lot (mostly for good reason). That night, we stayed at a camp in Kruger, ate a delicious dinner and went to bed early again in our adorable “rondoval” huts in the camp.
(A picture I actually have!- Leah is SUPER happy in our rondoval!)
The next day we got up early, jumped in the vans, and continued on, with more close calls with animals, and shut downs with Dan.
After the morning game drive was over, we ate quickly and then went white water rafting! Which was totally difficult, but really fun. Leah and I, despite getting stuck repeatedly, somehow avoided getting dumped into the water- I was really proud. The day ended with another delicious dinner at the backpackers in Nelspruit, showers and sleep.
Part 2: Mom& Grammie take Africa--
The next morning we woke up, a little later, finally, and drove back to Johannesburg, where I waited excitedly at “international arrivals” for my mom and grandmother to meet me- I couldn’t be more excited to see them, and they couldn’t be more excited to get off the plane.
We stayed the night in Joburg, just eating and resting, and the next morning went back to the airport to catch our flight to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.
Arriving in Zimbabwe, we checked into our hotel (which was beautiful and had a view of the spray from the falls out of our balcony). At four, we went on a “sunset cruise” of the Zambezi river, where we saw hippos and elephants in and around the water.
(Sunset over the Zambezi- what looks like smoke is actually the spray of the falls int he distance).
That night, we attended the “boma dinner” which was a fun, if slightly cheesy, restaurant. It was clearly for tourists, but so is most of Victoria Falls, really. They had face painting and drumming and lots of food options, including the “Mopani worm” (which is actually a thing some people eat- apparently they sell it in cans?) My mom and grandma and I all tried one and… well, I wouldn’t eat another, to be honest.
After dinner we went home and fell sound asleep. The next morning, set out for our “elephant back safari.” Compared to the animals I had seen in Kruger, we didn’t see much at all, but we learned a lot about the elephants and other wildlife. Also, while riding the elephant, my mom asked our guide some questions about life in Zimbabwe. He was really honest with us and told us that it was really hard, and that he was really grateful for his job. Zim has an 80% unemployment rate, so he provides for much of his immediate and extended family. He said that the political regime is, while theoretically a democracy, incredibly corrupt and that communities who support opposing parties are withheld aid and resources. Also he said that sometimes there are cameras in voting booths, which keep people from voting any other way. When asked about what hope he has for his country, he said he has very little. This was hard to hear and made us look at the community of Victoria Falls in a very different light. Tourism is really their only source of income and is therefore is really important to them. After their political turbulence years ago, tourism in Vic Falls moved significantly to the Zambia side, and the town suffered considerably. Now, people are incredibly accommodating and even doting upon tourists, to work to keep the industry alive, despite economic hardships the country is having. Also, Zimbabwe is currently “dollarized” and uses US dollars after their currency became excessively inflated. In addition, the entire town of Victoria Falls is within the “Victoria Falls State Park,” so warthogs, baboons and elephants are actually everywhere. One of our guides showed us a neighborhood where almost every non-electrified fence had holes in it from elephants walking through.
(Mom and I on our elephant, Emily, with our incredible guide, Eben)
That afternoon, we toured the falls themselves, which was a lot more like swimming than I had expected. The falls were at their wettest time of the year, so we were completely drenched from the spray, even with a raincoat, poncho and umbrella each. Still, it was awe-inspiring and really exciting to see one of the world’s natural wonders.
The next day we looked around the town just a little more, sent some postcards, and headed off to the airport. From Vic Falls we flew to Johannesburg, where we then connected to our Cape Town flight. Most of the day was spent in airports, but after such long adventure, I was glad for a chance to rest.
In Cape Town, I went back to my apartment and my mom and grandma headed off to their hotel. The next morning I met them for Palm Sunday church at St. Georges Cathedral. St. Georges is an Anglican church that was once the primary congregation of Archbishop Desmond Tutu and a hub for anti-apartheid resistance. The service included a procession and a lot of incense and lasted almost 2 hours, but was a great experience. From there we went to the Hout Bay Market where we shopped and ate a delicious lunch. After that, we went to see sunset at Camp’s bay, one of my favorite beaches. The day was a perfect way to welcome them to Cape Town, and I was glad to spend it with them.
(hands down the best sunset I've seen in Cape Town)
The next day I had class again (which was strange after so much time off). My mom and grandma took a full day tour of Cape Town and went to Robben Island and met me for dinner at Lyras, where we heard Jazz and discussed our days.
Tuesday I met Mom and Gram after class and we got lunch, shopped on Long Street and then hiked Lion’s head for the sunset/full moonrise! It was really exciting, if kind of exhausting.
My amazing grandma, hiking mountains at age 77 :)
Moonrise from Lion's head!
Wednesday Mom and Gram went on their Penninsula tour to see the penguins at Simons Town, Cape Point and Kirstenbosch gardens. We met for dinner that night, and, as they were exhausted, just hung out and played bananagrams afterwards.
Thursday was their last day in Cape Town, so we finished it off with a wine tour in Stellenbosch and a dinner at a pizza place near their hotel, where we ran into my friend Elena’s family. After that, I helped them pack, slept over in their hotel, and said goodbye in the morning- It was sad to say goodbye, but, I realized, I’d be boarding my own plane in just a month and a half! Which is crazy, to be honest.
(Stellenbosch is pretty I guess-- also, the mountains are supposed to look like a bullfrog, sitting down? Maybe you need to be drinking some stellenbosch wine to see it, though...)
That weekend was Easter weekend. Friday night, I met Elena’s parents and her cousin’s cousin who lives in Cape Town for a lovely dinner. Saturday, Leah and I went to an interfaith “call to witness” which was a march from District six to parliament, organized by different faith communities to remind the government that the people are watching and expecting better leadership and notice the corruption at hand. The march was exciting and inspirational. Leah and I walked behind a woman who said to the person next to her “this feels like the old days!” which really struck us, as we realized that so much of the older generation marching with us had marched together like this to resist apartheid. A highlight for us was that at the beginning of the march, Archbishop Desmond Tutu opened with a prayer, even though he was in the midst of his annual holy week fast. To see one of my personal heroes in real life was an amazing experience and meant a lot to me. After the march we checked out Truth Coffee, a steampunk coffee shop with slow service but tasty food.
(Desmond Tutu, through the crowd)
-People leaving signs in the gates around Parliament after the march-
Sunday, Leah and I went to church for Easter at “Central Methodist Mission”- a progressive church in the heart of Cape Town. The service was really awesome and socially minded and got us thinking about the way that we are called as Christians to work for social change and equity for all of our neighbors. Definitely an important Easter message for me to hear!
After church, we went to the beach, although it was kind of too windy and a little chilly… I guess it really is fall now!
Monday was just a homework day, as was most of this week. I am finally coming to realize how much work I have to get done in the next three weeks, and its honestly a little scary, (especially as WashU finishes out their semester.) Still, it was a productive week, and Leah and I celebrated last night by making chocolate muffins and watching two Sandra Bullock movies- Miss Congeniality (because, it was, actually, the “perfect date”—April 25th- not too warm, not too cold, all you need is a light jacket!) and The Proposal. Almost like seeing Childish Gambino perform at WILD at WashU. Almost.
Anyway, this is now longer than one of the essays I need to write… (oops)! So I’ll stop here and say, Happy Easter, Passover, end of semester and May 1st (which is worker's day, here so I have no school!)
kianamaiart
2087
annaxmalina
prguitarman
pixelskylines
turnnoffyourmind