If I Encounter One More Trade Name For A Gemstone Or Other Attractive Mineral I Will Puke
Iâve been making jewelry for a number of years now. Pretty early on I was directed to a company called Fire Mountain Gems as a potential supplier. They sent a copy of their catalog with my first order, which introduced me to a *lot* of stones Iâd never heard of⌠more than a few of which had trade names.
Now, understand, humanity has only relatively recently become fussy about how accurately they name their stones. For a big stretch of history, if it was reasonably hard and red OR dark red OR black with red highlights when you tilted it right, theyâd probably call it a ruby. (Example: the Black Princeâs Ruby in the state crown of England, which is a completely different gemstone called a spinel, but they named it before the 1780s which is when we started being able to actually identify rubies as rubies. So⌠yeah.) Some kinds of gem have had lots and lots of different names all historically referring to the same stone. It makes for interesting reading of historic accounts of this or that piece of jewelry. I can excuse it, it was the past, really formal gemology is only a moderately recent thing.
But these days I go to the store and I see yellow gemmy-looking beads hanging on the rack, and I look at the sticker, and it says âyellow jadeâ, only the price is way less than that much actual jade would cost online. Or I go to look for smaller beads to match a few pieces of actual turquoise that I have on hand, and I realize that I have no idea whether African turquoise is actually turquoise or not. It gets⌠irritating. I want to actually know what the hell Iâm paying for and whether itâs hard enough to risk putting it in a bracelet or ring, or whether itâs a softer stone that should be kept in earrings and necklaces, away from possible scratching or impact. If youâre buying jewelry, or if youâre looking for stones for jewelry work, or if youâre someone who believes in the metaphysical properties of stones and crystals, youâre going to want an accurate understanding of whatever it is youâve got in front of you, right? Right.
So, yeah. Hereâs a few of the trade names Iâve been stumbling over since I got started in jewelry making.
New jade - This is serpentine. Itâs a pretty rock but itâs not jadeite or nephrite; itâs not actually jade. Serpentineâs way common, since itâs basically a form of one of the most common minerals in the earthâs crust.
Mountain jade - A kind of dolomite marble. Also not jade.
Ching Hai jade - Dolomite plus a couple of other minerals. Pretty, but not jade. Let me put it like this: on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, nephrite jade is 6 to 6.5 and jadeite is 6.5 to 7. Ching Hai jade is 3.5 to 4. This stuff is softer than the outer coating of human teeth (Mohs 5, same as a basic knife blade and most kinds of everyday glass). You want a stone you can put in a ring where itâll get whacked or bounced off hard surfaces or otherwise stand a chance of impact, youâre gonna want real jade. Ching Hai jade will get scratched clear to kingdom come with a Mohs score like that.
Yellow jade - Itâs quartz. Nephrite jade comes in a lot of colors including yellow, but if theyâve labeled it âyellow jadeâ rather than saying âjadeâ or ânephrite jadeâ then itâs quartz. Same deal for âgolden jadeâ.
Malaysia jade - Also quartz.
African jade - yep, still quartz.
Black jade - Both nephrite and jadeite come in black forms, but if a stone is being sold with the name âblack jadeâ, itâs 90% likely to be serpentine. Actual jade gets labeled as jadeite or nephrite. I donât do metaphysical stone foo, but man, if youâre buying a stone because you want to use its mojo, seems to me youâd want to get the actual stone associated with what youâre trying to do, not a stone thatâs the same color and level of shiny.
Peace jade - Serpentine plus white quartz. I donât even know where they came up with this name. Itâs pretty but itâs jade the way a pommel horse is a horse.
Yellow turquoise - Serpentine again. Or rather, serpentine and quartz. At least this stuff comes from the same mines as turquoise.
African turquoise - Jasper. Itâs turquoise colored, but itâs actually harder than real turquoise, for whatever thatâs worth.
Italian onyx - They also call this one onyx marble. Itâs a kind of calcite. Takes dye really well so they use it in different color forms.
African bloodstone / Indian bloodstone - Legit name for the actual stone, for once! These are both names for the same thing. They also call it heliotrope. So any of those names all refer to the same thing.
Tigerskin jasper - And weâre back to the malarkey; this is limestone. With pretty stripes, but seriously, itâs not even jasper and jasper gets used as a substitute for other stones so wtf.
Bumblebee jasper - Sometimes they call this bumblebee agate. Itâs not jasper. Itâs not agate. Bumblebee jasper is volcano lava and sediment thatâs resulted in swirly yellow and black layers. I mean, itâs pretty, sell it as much as you want, but IT ISNâT EVEN CLOSE TO BEING JASPER.
Aqua terra jasper - Onyx marble. They also call it impression stone, but itâs marble, and itâs on the soft side as stones go. Marbleâs around Mohs 3 on a good day. Thatâs another stone you can scratch with your teeth.
Green Earth jasper - NOPE. Serpentine. Sorry.
Peridot jasper - Serpentine. Seriously, do you have any idea how many stones with pretty pretty names are actually just pretty pretty names for different colors of serpentine?
Zebra jasper - onyx marble.
Chinese chrysoprase- Oh look itâs serpentine again
Lemon chrysoprase - This is magnesite. Not dyed, which is a little unusual. Magnesite takes dye really well and gets sold in a lot of colors as a substitute for other stones. Selling it as lemon chrysoprase means someone managed to get hold of a yellowish color of the stuff.
Mosaic turquoise - If itâs labeled mosaic anything, itâs almost always fragments of a stone bound together with resin, and probably not even the stone it claims to be. Mosaic turquoise is ittybitty chips of magnesite thatâs been dyed to match turquoise color, then stabilized together as a single piece. Itâs not even close to being turquoise.
Green opal - okay, quick lesson: there are different kinds of opal, and not all of them have the flashy color changing fire you get with precious stones like Welo opal or Australian opal. Mexican fire opal and Oregon fire opal are good examples of other forms. The actual stone we call opal is a specific kind of silica with a certain level of water content, not just the pretty flashiness. And opals of both the flashy kind and the non-flashy kind do come in green. But if theyâre selling it as âgreen opalâ, they are selling you chalcedony. Chemically similar, but not as pretty, and a distinctly harder stone.
Red malachite - This is marble. They find marble with banding that resembles malachite banding and they cut it and polish it to look like malachite, just in a different color. Malachite is green; this isnât even a thing like jade coming in different colors. There isnât actual red malachite.
Opaline - this isnât even a stone. This is glass. Same deal with âsea opalâ. Sorry. Sometimes they sell chalcedony as opaline but whatever it is youâve found itâs not opal.
Fused quartz - Glass. This is glass. Fancypants glass, but itâs glass.
Goldstone, or blue goldstone: Also glass. With bits of copper in it to produce really nice sparkly effects, but itâs still a kind of glass.
Sand stone or blue sand stone: I only found out recently that some people sell goldstone as âsandstoneâ, so⌠this oneâs glass too. Actual sandstone is a sorta brown sedimentary rock.
Black moss quartz - This is glass. Worth noting, thereâs a vaguely similar product out there called rutilated quartz. Thatâs actual quartz with spindly intrusions of a different mineral, rutile. Difference is, the quartz has a Mohs hardness of 7 and will scratch the âblack moss quartz'sâ soft bitch ass six ways from Sunday as a result.
Fordite - This is paint. Fordite is automotive enamel thatâs dripped onto the same spot on factory floors for so many years that itâs built up to the point where it can be cut and polished and made into jewelry elements. Unlike a lot of trade names, this one isnât a form of bullshit to pass one thing off as another. People who go looking for fordite are specifically looking for gemstone quality layered automobile paint. Sometimes they call it Detroit agate or motor agate, but thatâs more of a joke than an attempt to sell the stuff to people looking for actual agate. I can live with this trade name.
Rainbow calsilica: Apparently thereâs just a huge amount of argument about this and some people say âthis is natural and we found it and itâs got pretty pretty stripes of all different colors just naturally and itâs a totally awesome metaphysical marvel of a totally natural gemstoneâ, but the Journal of the Gemological Institute of America says âdude, you powdered carbonated rock and added paint and stabilized it with resin, wtfâ. So yeah, be warned. I mean, itâs pretty and all, and youâll probably pay way less for it than for chrysocolla (a natural stone with somewhat similar striping), but⌠be aware itâs probably something a guy in a factory or a lab put together, okay?
And citrine: Okay, this isnât exactly a case of trade name bullshittery, but, uh. Natural citrine is stupid rare. Most citrine these days used to be amethyst. Take a crappy piece of amethyst with faint color or gray tones and heat the hell out of it long enough, and it turns yellow, and you can legally sell it as citrine. If youâve got citrine crystals and the yellow color is most intense up in the tips, youâve almost certainly got former amethyst there. Fair warning.
So⌠yeah. Lot of trade names out there. Some of them total bupkis. Some only partly so. Heads up, and if youâre in the market for a gem or a crystal or something like that, do yourself a favor and look up the name somewhere reliable first just so you know what youâre buying.