Polish āNational Mourningā fashion - worn by women of all ages in the 19th century, after theĀ PartitionsĀ of the former Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth - when Poland has disappeared from the maps for over a century. Starting from the KoÅciuszko Uprising (1794), this trend in clothing & accessories gained the popularityĀ especially after the fall of theĀ November Uprising (1830-31) and later theĀ January Uprising (1863-64), which had been anticipated with a great hope for regaining the independence.
It was especially known for the meaningful jewellery. Similar to the mourning jewellery known all over Europe, this kind was unique to Poland. Adorned with patriotic and religious symbols, it was a manifestation of the strong will, solidarity and a silent struggle of the nation expecting to regain freedom rather than a sign of a personal grief. Significant symbols were worn to commemorate the insurgencies (lost homeland) or personal loses to the occupants (often to remember the beloved ones exiled to Siberia).Ā The jewellery was creating an unusual bond between the women - two complete strangers were likely to fall into each otherās arms on the street seeing a shared kind of accessory.
Certain battles were commemorated with miniature religious medallions or crosses (those would be sometimes made out of twigs collected on the battlefield), common were the patriotic or religious rings with the eagle, Commonwealthās coat of armsĀ or a cross. Wooden jewellery was popular, made of bog oak (known for darkening over time) or ebony, sometimes of animal bones painted black (such jewellery was sometimes self-made by the men on exile and sent home with a letter). Wealthier women were buying e.g. obsidian necklaces, earrings and brooches. Common motifs were chains, symbolizing Polandās lost independence, or an anchor, symbol of the hope and certitude.Ā During the November Uprising (1831), patriotic white and red ribbons with a crowned eagle (symbol of Poland) or a rider (symbol of Lithuania) were extremely popular. Many medallions were having a miniature picture and a lock of hair inside, belonging to the exiled husband or fiance.Ā
Wearing the so-called āblack jewelleryā in Poland under partitions was risky, often punishable with a fine, detention or imprisonment, especially after the fall of January Uprising (1860s).Ā It was seen as a demonstration of solidarity with the convicted insurgents and a silent but immutable rebellion against the occupying powers. The most popular were the religious symbols, arousing less suspicion. Most women were simply wearing all-black clothes (carefully hiding the patriotic jewellery in public), what is strikingly apparent when looking at the 19th-century portraiture from Poland. The colorful Parisian fashion, very popular in Poland, was usually adapted to this trend and even the fashion magazines were more likely to print the illustrations toned down.
Examples of Polish jewellery from the āNational Mourningā period:
Sources (in Polish): [1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16]
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