New Belgium Transatlantique Kriek.
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Moving to New York in 4.5 months!!
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New Belgium Transatlantique Kriek.
Celebrating good news on the wife's grad school process.
Moving to New York in 4.5 months!!
Brewery Tune-up
I've been less than thrilled with my last 3 or 4 beers. What's particularly frustrating is that every time I think I've figured out a problem, something new or different shows up in the next batch.
As such, I decided that it was time to give my system a little bit of a tune up and/or overhaul and try to eliminate as many variables as possible.
Here's a list of potential problems and what I've decided to do about them.
Not paying attention to mash chemistry:
I highly doubt that this is the source of all of my ills, but my problems started roughly around the same time that I made the switch to brewing all grain using the BIAB technique. Other than treating for chloromines, I haven't been paying a lot of attention to water, and I have never done the iodine test to ensure conversion or tested the mash pH. I'm going to start doing both of these things.
Super High Attenuation:
Ever since I switched to all grain, I've been getting ridiculous attenuation rates. As in consistently upwards of 90%. I didn't think this was a problem at first, but I've decided to focus more on having all aspects of a beer turn out like I've planned, even if the "mistakes" seem like they're not a big deal. In any case, I am going to try to solve my high attenuation problem by a) calibrating my thermometer, b) checking my mash for varying temperatures, and c) mashing for only 60 minutes.
Regarding point c, I had been mashing for 90 minutes, thinking that the extended timeframe would only increase conversation efficiency, but now I'm thinking that the extra time allowed the beta-amylase more time to further break down the sugars already broken down by the alpha-amylase leading to a more fermentable wort. I don't know if this theory has any scientific legitimacy, but I'll give it a whirl and see what happens.
Possible presence of DMS:
With my new setup, I can't get as vigorous of a boil as I used to, and I think that my latest saison has a significant DMS presence because of this. I am going to simply refrain from using large portions of Pilsner malt in my beers from now on.
Possible infection of bottling bucket:
My beers have been exhibiting this crazy annoying tendency to be delicious going into the bottles, and bad after carbonation. My bottle sanitation process is pretty strict, but I'm starting to believe my bottling bucket might be contaminated. This theory was solidified when the wife described what was supposed to be a clean beer as “a little too bretty.”
I bought the bottling bucket on craigslist, and in my original days, I might have used a harsh brush to clean it. I'm thinking that perhaps I put a scratch or two into the bucket, and now said scratches are infested with bacteria or wild yeast that love nothing more than to make my delicious beer taste like crap. I'm buying a new bottling bucket this week.
Possibly oxidation through bottling process:
My bottle sanitation process is great, but my actual bottling process leaves a little to be desired. I don't have a bottling wand, and as such I fill the bottles directly from the spigot of the bucket. By doing this I'm am effectively oxidizing each bottle as I try to fill it. That's just a bad idea. So in addition to my bottling bucket I’m going to buy a bottling wand and tubing as well.
Over/under Carbonation:
I've really been struggling with this, and the reason is that my priming sugar calculations have been based on an imprecise volume. A thoughtful guess is the best I can do. I am going to try to address this by adding the priming sugar solution after I have the beer in my bottling bucket. Putting the beer in the bucket first will allow me to use a volume calculation to ensure I am using the right amount of priming sugar. I will then have to stir it to mix it in, which means I'll once again be introducing oxygen when I shouldn't be. However, I can't think of another way to correctly prime my beer. And if I stir very very gently, hopefully I can minimize the amount of oxygen introduced.
What do you guys think of all of this? Are my plans solid or crazy?
I have this friday off and I'm planning a double brew day to test out all of my theories. I'll be making a brett burgundy ale which I will age on oak and raspberries and a simple saison.
We’ll see what happens!
I'm confused. The pomegranate Belgian golden weak is still (apparently) actively fermenting. This is strange because the gravity is currently sitting at .998. I know a gravity under 1 doesn't necessarily mean all the fermentables are gone, but I really don't think there should be enough left to cause all these bubbles. Weird.
The pomegranate molasses in the Belgian Golden Weak is fermenting a lot more vigorously than I expected. It has a full krausen and the airlock is bubbling away!
Dressing up the Belgian Weak
I read somewhere, maybe in Mosher's Radical Brewing, maybe somewhere else, that using fruit in beers was historically frowned upon. The train of thought behind this was that fruit could cover up flaws in a beer, and thus the use of fruit meant the original beer wasn't that great.
Hey. If it worked for the old timers, maybe it will work for me.
My Weak Juju (the "mistake"Belgian Golden Strong Ale) fermented just about completely out to a good ol final gravity of 1.000. However, the amazing tropical passion fruit character it had two and a half weeks into fermentation has been completely dominated by brett funk.
Lots and lots of barnyard. I haven't really figured this out yet, but I'm thinking I either overpitched the brett (I dual fermented with a wyeast Belgian Strong Ale yeast strain and a brett strain from a local brewery) or I fermented it at too high of a temperature.
Either way, the beer wasn't particularly pleasant. It wasn't bad, but the aroma that had me so excited was gone and the brett was a little overpowering.
So I decided to take a cue from my brewing ancestors and try to soften it with a little bit of fruit.
My wife has been eating lots of pomegranates lately. I was sharing one with her when it occurred to me that the tart flavor of the pomegranate would go great in a brett beer. After a few google searches, I decided to use pomegranate molasses (which is just reduced pomegranate juice) for the flavor. My google research told me that using actual pomegranate seeds can add a harsh bitterness to the beer. Also, the 10oz bottle of pomegranate molasses was only $5.99, so it seemed a lot more cost effective than using one of the super expensive pomegranate juices.
Adding the bottle of pomegranate molasses was a LOT easier than when I tried to add thawed frozen blackberries to my sour saison a few months back. Sanitize the bottle, open bottle, flip bottle upside down in carboy neck, walk away. That's my kind of procedure.
The molasses added a bit of color and about 6-7 gravity points. It also tasted pretty good. I'm fully expecting all of the sweetness to ferment out (which also has the side benefit of toughening up the Belgian Golden Weak) but if the tartness stays, I think it might turn out to be a pretty darn good beer.
Well check back in a couple weeks or so and see how it's doing.
My Favorite Beer
This is my favorite beer.
It's called Batch 1 by Crooked Stave. As you can guess, it was the first beer they brewed. It is a burgandy ale brewed with 100% brettanomyces and barrel aged for 15 months on a whole bunch of rasberries (I think somewhere along the lines of 1-2lbs per gallon).
It is sublimely delicious.
My wife got her first grad school acceptance letter yesterday, so we popped one of these open to celebrate.
This beer is magic.
But now I only have three left. I have no idea if Crooked Stave plans on re-releasing this, but just in case they aren't I'm making a starter with the dregs this afternoon.
Let's see how close I can come to making some magic of my own.
The Belgian Golden Weak has a nice pellicle after 60 days in the fermenter!
Anyone have any experience with infected commercial beers?? I was expecting to enjoy this one with the Superbowl, but it gushed upon opening and then tasted like... well.... tasted a lot more like my failed batches than a commercially brewed and highly recommended apple saison. I'm going to email the brewery and see if they're willing to make it right.
In case you missed it here’s the link to the article. Its a great read if we must say…
The best news is if you’re interested in trying some beers with this wild yeast, we’ve got you covered. A few that we’re quite fond of and are in stock at Beer Table Pantry, our Manhattan location.
Green...
Congratulations to Chad Yakobson for getting some national press for the wonderful magic he's making with brettanomyces!!
Progress Reports
A few days back I drew samples of the two "mistake" beers I've brewed recently, the Weak Juju Golden Ale and the Tusha Farmhouse Ale.
The Weak Juju has gone from 1.053 to 1.008 after two weeks in the primary. I'm expecting the ever-hungry brettanomyces to bring this down to a final gravity of somewhere around 1.000. The last brett beer I made ended up at 0.996, so I don't think this is too far fetched.
Incidentally, this sample tasted wonderful. The aroma and flavor were both full of passion fruit and other tropical notes with just a hint of barnyard. I always seem to be saying that my beers taste delicious pre-bottling, and I hope that this one tastes just as good when it's all carbed up.
I'm probably going to leave it in the primary for 5-6 weeks and then go straight to bottles.
Man, these two beers look pretty similar, don't they?
This is the Tusha Farmhouse Ale. The current gravity, corrected for temperature, is around 1.012. It started out a week earlier at 1.042. This needs a few more weeks in the ferementer, and I'm hoping to knock off another gravity point or five. The only reason I pulled this sample was to compare the temperature inside the fermenter to the temperature inside the electric blanket wrapped around the ferementer.
It's kinda fun fermenting a beer at 90 degrees. I hope it works out for me!
Learning the System
Flub, stumble, trip, learn, and try again.
In Brewing Better Beer, Gorden Strong emphasizes the importance of knowing all of the intricacies your own system. He couches much of his advice in qualifying statements about the type of system that one is brewing on. He seems to think it is really really important.
So, of course, I ignored his advice. I guess I didn't think my system was sophisticated enough to hide very many secrets. I mash my grains in a bag, I boil, I add hops, I chill, I ferment. What's to learn?
Turns out there's a lot of things to which I should have been paying attention. The first two batches (a Belgian Strong ale and a Saison) in my new brew kettle didn't work out as I had hoped they would. What's really frustrating is that I didn't learn from the first batch and made essentially the same mistake on my second.
In both batches I missed my anticipated original gravity by a significant margin, mostly because my wort volume was way high. I used Brewer's Friend's default calculations for grain absorption and boil off rates. The problems with this are that 1) I squeeze all the water possible out of my grain bag and 2) with the bigger brew kettle, I can't get as vigorous of a boil. Both of these things lead to me ending up with much more wort than I expected, which in turn leads to weaker beers.
The Belgian Golden Strong Ale was supposed to end up around 1.072, but it was 1.053 instead. I dual fermented this with Wyeast's Belgian Golden Ale strain along with a Brett Brux strain that I got from Chad Yakobson at Crooked Stave. This beer filled my house with heavenly smells during the vigorous part of the fermentation process. I can only hope that it ends up tasting half as good as it smelled. Even with a 1.053 OG, the brett should consume pretty much all of the sugars in the wort, so I'll likely end up with a moderately strong belgian golden beer. Just not an actual Belgian Golden Strong Ale.
My second go of the same mistake was a saison which ended up at 1.042 instead of 1.052. I figured that making a smaller batch would help me reach a better boil, and thus alter the low boil-off rate. I did get a much better boil, but the evaporation rate stayed at about 3 quarts per hour. This is being fermented with the Wyeast Belgian Saison (dupont, I believe) strain at 90 degrees. It feels really really strange fermenting a beer this hot, but I wanted to get as much of the saison character out of the yeast as I could. With the lower OG, this might turn into a nice tart, fruity, spicy, sessionable beer.
I'm not overly upset with either of these two mistakes because I still believe they will be enjoyable beers. But I am learning. I'm brewing a Golden Promise Willamette SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop) next week, and this time I'm determined to "know" my system and hit my fermentation volume spot on.
Icupe Sour Saison Tasting
The non-blackberried gallon of my sour saison has been in the bottles for a little over a month now, so we decided to try it out while I was bottling the 4 gallons that had been sitting on blackberries.
Short story: I'm pleased, but not thrilled.
Long story: This had the potential to be a very good beer, and it's almost there. Pours with a thick off-white head that lingers for a while and then dissipates with a fair amount of lacing. The nose is pretty brett heavy, lots of barnyard funk (if you told me five years ago I would think descriptors like "leather" and "horse sweat" made for good beer, I would have thought you were nuts) with a little bit of sourness. I'm pretty happy with the balance between the malt, hops, and funkyness. It drinks well and surprisingly easily considering it clocks in at 8.4% alcohol.
What's the downside? There is a not-overpowering but noticeable band-aid flavor mixed in with all the good stuff. I attribute this to the fact that I brewed this before I realized my tap water had chloramine and began treating accordingly. It's not terrible, but it certainly holds the beer back from realizing its potential.
I'm hoping that the flavor is less noticeable in the blackberried version. I didn't taste it so much in the pre-bottling sample. Fingers crossed.
What I'm drinking, 12-17-12.
Odell Brewing’s Friek. An ale aged with sour cherries in oak barrels followed by a late addtion of raspberries before to the final blend and bottling. This is a delicious beer. One of the better sours I’ve had lately. It has a good amount of tartness without being overwhelmingly sour. A highly fruity aroma that hinges on the sour cherries. A flavor that follows the nose, but with the raspberries delightfully noticeable. This is a wonderful modern interpretation of a kriek. If you generally enjoy lambics and you see this at your local beer store, you should probably buy two.
"Wow! That tastes like real beer!"
Remember that big old messy day when I tried to get a little over four pounds of thawed and mushy blackberries through a very narrow carboy mouth? That day was November 17th. For the past month, my collection of brettanomyces and bacteria were nibbling away at the blackberries as the carboy hid under the sink in the warmest room of my house.
(ps. that growler sitting next to the carboy has my very own brettanomyces culture in it. I used some in the Belgian Golden Ale I made this past weekend. More on that to come) Wonderful things have been happening under the cover of that Pittsburgh Pirates t-shirt. On Saturday, four weeks after I racked the sour saison onto the blackberries, I pulled it out from it’s makeshift lair to have myself a taste.
Even if the blackberries don’t come through that much, at the very least they’ve contributed a nice purple-ish hue to the beer. I took a sample and gave it to Danielle to have the first sip. She sniffed the aroma excitedly, took a small sip and exclaimed, “Wow! That tastes just like real beer!”
Eureka!
At this point in time, this is by far the best beer I have created. The aroma is a little fruity with a healthy dose of your typical barnyard brett smells. The brett doesn’t come through so much in the flavor, which is a lovely combination of malty sweetness and a healthy tartness. There is only a trace of blackberry detectable in the flavor, but I can’t complain too much about that when the beer tastes so good. The mouthfeel has a nice and pleasing body. I cannot wait to get this into bottles and start drinking it. Going into bottles in a week and going into my belly in about 7.
Let me know if you have any questions about this beer, brett, or anything else!
Happy drinking, my friends.
Mine enemy, I know thy face and I dub thee "chloramine."
The tag line for this blog is "stumbling through homebrewing." Perhaps I wrote that with a bit of affected humility, as I thought I was doing a great job with homebrewing and I wanted to share how great of a job I was doing with everyone. But it turns out I was unwittingly stumbling the whole time. At least in one aspect, and probably in many more yet to be discovered.
A little over four weeks ago, I primed and bottled my Christmas beer: Ubupe (meaning "gift") Mint Chocolate Stout. I was very excited to pop open the first bottle this past Sunday, in hopes of sipping a lovely Christmas beer while bottling the Mpriripiri Mexican Chocolate Stout.
Didn't quite work out the way I wanted.
Why? Because the Ubupe was terrible. I don't think I've ever tasted a beer quite so awful, and I became acquainted with a fair amount of skunked PBR in my college days. This beer was the worst. Taking a sip of this beer was like gnawing on a rusty nail.
I was very disappointed, because I haven't succeeded in creating a truly enjoyable beer since my third batch, and I was hoping this would be the one that bucked the trend. But instead it was the worst yet.
After the initial period of angry frustration and feelings of hopelessness, I set out on a quest to figure out why my beer tasted like metal. Most of what I found just didn't seem applicable to my brew process. All of the usual sources limited the causes for metallic off-flavors to:
unprotected metals dissolving into the wort but can also be caused by the hydrolysis of lipids in poorly stored malts. Iron and aluminum can cause metallic flavors leaching into the wort during the boil. The small amount could be considered to be nutritional if it weren't for the bad taste. Nicks and cracks ceramic coated steel pots are a common cause as are high iron levels in well water. (How to Brew)
This just didn't make sense for my beer. My water did not have a high level of iron, my pot is sufficiently oxidized to prevent any aluminum from leaching into the wort, and anyways, if there was metal in my water or if it was a brew kettle issue, wouldn't I have tasted this before bottling?
My search was getting more and more frantic, since I was planning on brewing in a few short days and the last thing I wanted was to create another 5 gallons of undrinkable beer. A post on homebrewtalk.com yielded no immediate results, but as I was reviewing past posts concerning metallic aftertastes, I decided to take a closer look at my water.
Water. It's the single biggest ingredient in beer. And I had paid it no attention. The books I read actually TOLD me not to pay attention to water until I had mastered everything else. I read that sentence and I moved on. I missed the part that said don't pay attention to water, unless.....
Unless you have chloramine. Chloramine? What's chloramine?? It is apparently a relatively new form of disinfectant added to the public water supply. Chlorine has long been the de rigueur disinfectant/sanitizer, but its volatile nature (it will dissipate with boiling or even if you let your water sit out in a bucket overnight) caused problems for utility companies. This problem was solved by my newest enemy.
Chloramine in its natural state is a liquid, so it does not disperse naturally, even if you boil it. This makes it great for the public utilities, but awful for homebrewers. When chloramine interacts with the beer ingredients during the beermaking process, chlorophenols are formed. What are chlorophenols? Well, there is a scientific definition, but the laybrewer's definition is: things that make your beer taste terrible. And since the flavors come into being during the fermentation/conditioning process, you've very little indication of the fact that the off flavors are coming from your water. Chloramine is a stealthy sneaky killer of enjoyable homebrew.
Cholophenols also have a ridiculously low taste threshold. Their gag-inducing presence can be detected at as little as 10 parts per billion. Horrible.
But generally, off-flavors from chloramine are perceived as band-aid, medicinal, harsh, or astringent. Metallic is not the typical flavor. However, chlorophenols take different forms based on the other ingredients of the beer. Some are worse than others. I finally felt like I had discovered the true cause of Ubupe tasting like a 1970s VW rabbit tailpipe when I found the following on Wikipedia, under the chloramine entry: "Chloramines should be removed from water for dialysis, aquariums, and homebrewing beer. Chloramines can interfere with dialysis, can hurt aquatic animals, and can give homebrewed beer a metallic taste."
Aha! So how do you get rid of them? Easy peezy. Adding a quarter campden tablet (potassium metabisufite) to your brewing water and in less than a minute.... no more chloramine.
So with my latest enemy vanquished, I move on to my brewday, when I tried and mostly failed to brew a Belgian Golden Strong Ale. There will be more on this latest stumble of mine later, perhaps titled "The case of Why the heck is my efficiency 15 points lower than it usually is?"
Until next time, happy drinking!
Not strictly related to homebrewing: Do you know who makes your beer?
The Brewer's Association recently wrote an op-ed about the true source of many "craft" beers.
As I have moved along the homebrew process, I have shied more and more away from buying any beer that was made by one of the huge brewing conglomerations.
It's not about local craft beer being better or big beer being worse (even if I find that's often the case), it's about me wanting to give my dollars to hard working people in my neighborhood for whom making excellent beer is a matter of passion and for whom profit mainly facilitates the pursuit of that passion.
Next time you go shopping for beer, think for a second about who is getting your money. It's an important point, at least for me.
My new Brewery!
Since Brent left me all of his brewing equipment, I have made next to no changes in the system. My boil kettle was 14 qts. which means all my five gallon batches have been either partial mash (using the Brew in a Bag technique) or extract + steeped grains. The only way I was able to do all grain batches was to do batches of 2.5 gallons or less.
This system was working just fine for me, and I didn't really have any plans to change it.
On an apparent tangent, every time I visited Amazon, the site took great pains to tell me that I could now use my Discover travel miles to buy things on Amazon. Whoop-de-doo. Who cares?
Well I certainly didn't care, at least not until the moment that I realized that I could buy homebrewing equipment on Amazon. The realization that I suddenly had three hundred and fifty "free" dollars to upgrade my brew system made me stop and think about what I liked about my system and what I wish I could change. Any changes I made would also have to be suitable to small apartment living/brewing, which is what we'll be doing if we move to NYC. Also, I didn't want to spend any "real" money, so the budget was firm.
Within these constraints, I identified the two biggest annoyances in my current brew system.
I couldn't do full boils and all grain for 5 gallon batches, and
My chilling system was incredibly inefficient.
So I decided to use my free money to change these things.
First I wanted to buy a kettle that is big enough to let me do full boils. I ended up with this.
This is an 8 gallon kettle with weldless thermometer and ball valve attachments. I might have been a little better off with a 9 or 10 gallon kettle, but I decided that 8 was the right size for the right price. I also am really excited about the valve and thermometer attachments. The thermometer will allow me to keep track of the temperature during the mashes without taking off the lid, and the valve will allow me to transfer the beer out of the kettle without lifting/tipping 5+ gallons of wort along with the stainless steel kettle.
So! A kettle that can do a full boil? Check!
Next on the list: a more efficient chilling system. Brent had a 25 ft copper immersion chiller, but it could only hook up to my hose. Chilling even 3 gallons of wort would take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour. And it wasted a TON of water. So I went ahead and splurged a little on this:
This is a 50ft immersion chiller made out of 3/8" copper tubing. It is twice as long as the one I had, which should chill the wort twice as fast.
But my chilling problem was not quite solved. Again, the faucet in my sink doens't fit the standard immersion chiller hookup, and I also wanted to be able to prechill the water before it went into the chiller to maximize the heat transfer and minimize cooling time. After a little bit of research, I decided this was the final piece to the puzzle:
What's this little guy, you ask? This is a small submersible water pump, typically used in yard water features and things of that sort. But I jerry rigged it to pump into my immersion chiller, which allows me to pump from a bucket of ice water through the chiller, quickly and efficiently cooling the boiling wort.
I boiled 5-6 gallons of water to test the system out, and I was very pleased with the results.
I was able to chill the water from boiling to 70 degrees in a little over 20 minutes. I'm chilling 5-6 gallons of liquid in a third of the time it took me to chill 2.5 gallons before. That's a win in my book.
I haven't tried this out on an actual brewday yet, but I'm making a Sour Belgian Golden Strong Ale next weekend and I'm really looking forward to it!