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@cursedlanternsstuff
You might think your anime opening is cool, but is it “seamlessly put a ‘previously on…’ segment in the MIDDLE of the opening and have it kick ass every time” cool?
bet your ass he is
I realize I already commented in the little reply thing but this has also reminded me that I forgot to put the Baccano intro on my playlists
Guess who forgot to update their tumblr page with their birthday again!
Also I get all the trending tags notifications but NONE OF THE REBLOG OR LIKED OR NEW STUFF NOTIFICATIONS ANYMORE
That said, plant updates namely are the mealy bugs gone? Yes. Yes they are. Diatomaceous earth works great on them.
New problem though is thrips that. Frankly I have no idea how they got in considering the only clearance orchids obtained about the time they showed up were put in the bathroom away from the infested plants and have stayed there! And the only thing to plague those so far is two rotting from the center out which. Sad cause they for once were pretty pretty colors though I don’t which ones cause the blooms have since perished and I don’t remember the color of the remaining one alive. That said. The….I’m probably about to horrifically butcher this name, adanosii monstera is, shockingly again, not plagued by the thrips despite once more being in the vicinity because by the time I spotted the darn things theyre just. All on the couple of plants that aren’t still DE coated.
Namely the orchids that or the still there corpses of mealy bugs are also a great deterrent. But the orchids are blooming and bug free and now if I can get the time to go outside and drown everything for good measure regardless of thrips seen or not maybe DE will make the thrip problem go away too.
Hello, tumblr user. Before you is a tumblr post asking you to name a female fictional character. You have unlimited time to tag a female character, NOT a male one.
Begin.
I HAD TO EDIT TO ADD THE TAGS FROM THE REBLOG WHAT THE HECK TUMBLR APP
I don’t want to be making this post, but I need to.
I don’t think I’m going to be able to finish this Necromancer costume this year without despising it by the end. This isn’t even on account of not getting it as nice as I’d like it to be, as I had wanted it to be. This is a matter of wanting to work on it and nearly every time I went to do so something else popped up, and when I’m frankly exhausted from all the other stuff being told I better work on it or I’m not going to get it done.
I know darn good and well I’m not going to be finished with it. I know it’s not going to be as nice as I’d want it. And I am darn certain if I keep working on it as I am now with being too tired to want to deal with when something else comes up outside of working on it or something going wrong, I will hate this costume in its entirety for what all that work meant. This, currently, is something I can’t enjoy doing because now it has become a rush task if I try to finish it and I will look at it and only see what I had wanted done. I will only think of all the fuss about working on it when every darn time I wanted to work on it something else was handed to me to do instead.
I’m sorry I can’t finish it right now. I don’t know if I will ever try again. I’m sorry for wasting the time of anyone who wanted to see how this costume would turn out.
I don’t know if I’ll post again about progress on this costume anytime soon.
I will at least try to explain how the sleeves would have needed to be sewn together, in all their complicated glory, in a separate post.
Okay so good news is I got all of the pieces cut out!
Also the collar pattern is its own sort of complication of pattern drafting by tracing the curve of the neckline…and math appliance, namely, nets!
Which is the general shapes that if you glue them together along the edges they make this shape, like how a chunk of a circle rolled up makes a cone shape or how the dice in the Dungeon Dice Monsters episodes of Yu Gi Oh unfold into chunks of pathing.
So I made a chunk of a ring piece for the standing part of the collar first and as seen in the first picture, had to draw off lines for darts. The second picture is the chunk of circle ish shape I got free handing the curve after drawing about 10”(25.4mm looking at my measure tape) from the top edge of the standing part after seam allowance on both ends.
And then I just did half the mock-up collar to check for the length and if the edges hit in the middle of the back of the coat, and that the folded mess of the standing part was okay, I took said piece. And cut into the neckline seam allowance and adjusted the pattern piece into one flat funkier shape that should work with the notches cut in, as seen in the top parchment paper piece in the picture below.
So back on track of cutting out the pieces. So the greater nuisances of stretch fabrics when cutting them tends to be the edges curling. Remedied by tape on the edges.
The thing with velvet though is you have to cut the pieces out so the pile is all going the same direction, otherwise it’ll look funky cause the pile makes the fabric look darker especially if disturbed.
And by disturbed I mean if you run your fingers across it going against the pile itll be like the weird suede? I think it’s suede but I am not sure. That fabric that if you run your hand across it one way it looks darker from the rest of it and vice versa if you drag a finger back across it the opposite way it leaves it lighter.
That said, with velvet if you run your hand down the length of it all ways, generally speaking the smoothest way is how you’re *allegedly* supposed to cut it so whichever way you run your hand down it and it feels the smoothest/least resistance is how you want the top of the pattern pieces to go. Basically the with nap part of pattern piece cutting layouts. Like if you smooth your hand down said least resistance direction, lay the pattern pieces down top to bottom that direction.
Which brings me to the second nuisance of cutting the velvet, cutting it single layer to make sure all doubled not on a fold pattern pieces are cut the same. The most consistent way for this is by a lot of internet research with a rotary cutter, pattern weights, and a cutting mat which…I don’t have. It’s okay though i just used the mock-up pieces, pinned carefully, and cut with my fabric scissors very, very carefully. And the collar pieces on the inside of the collar CN the outside of the standing part I think in two with seam allowance cause nobody’s going to see the seam if it’s going to be against my neck or otherwise lying flat against my back.
I say i think cause I might’ve just put them all in a pile and cannot tell which pieces are which currently.
The same goes for the knit fabric I’m using except with the knit instead of pile to be used as the cut with nap method, you use the grainline. Which is to say all the tiny little ribs running nice and neat and straight parallel to the edges of the selvage/selvedge edge of the fabric. Namely the edge that you see at the end of the bolt that’s got the little pin holes all in it. And may or may not be a little fuzzy from fraying. If I had a picture I would show you but my phone camera will not pick up the grain on this stuff. Googling or whichever browser you prefer will likely yield a good picture of what exactly you’re looking for.
As of typing this I have the main body pieces of the lining sewn but not the sleeves. Not yet. Those I gotta do a lot of thinking on because I have to sew the longer sleeves all together with the fancy bulky cuffs and then sew those into the lining so that the longer sleeves stay on the inside of the lining of the shorter sleeve.
Anyways, that’s all for now, next update will likely be on how in the heck I sew the sleeves so they don’t get messed up.
So this update is not on how the heck I sew the sleeves so they don’t get messed up mostly because a decent number of annoyances have arisen namely, stuff irl and me finding out when I spread the outside layer of the coat flat, that the seams are rippling.
So the funny thing with stretch is asides from you have to use a zigzag or other form of stretch stitch because straight stitch seams will snap if the fabric stretches too far, if it stretches while you sew the stuff, you gonna get a seam that sorta looks like a scrunchie hair tie.
I do not have pictures because I have been scrambling to make any progress at all on this because of said irl stuff.
But anyways this means to try and get flat seams, I am sewing the seams again with half a strip of bias tape as a test and I am debating on seam ripping that one for the….
At least the third probably the fourth or fifth or worse time?
Anyways the thing with seam ripping knits/stretch. The fabric wants to hide the thread of the seam so you can’t just go zipping along with a seam ripper and with the stretch stitch on my machine. It does a slant stitch out from the main line of doubled straight stitches which yes I tested the seam it does stretch it doesn’t snap but this stitching is so tedious to pick apart. Anyways in favor of getting the seams again with to lie flat because the bias tape is stiffer than I thought im using a thin and not too stiff fabric as makeshift…stay tape? Stuff to keep the seam flat and not stretching itself out.
That fabric being leftover fabric from the vest and long sleeves lining.
So thats being worked on, I’m dragging grooves for the feathers into the foam shapes by hand with a thin metal tool and looking for the Velcro I got to stick the sleeves cuffs to the supports I made for it which. Is literally just a piece of foam with a bunch of pieces of aluminum wire longer than the foam piece masking taped to said foam and bent at an angle where the foam ends so the loose wire pieces will be in the sleeve part and the foam will keep the cuff shape. Like standing billboard sign supports or cutout supports shape.
That said to get the sleeves I’m probably going to have a seam ripped and Velcro’d shut for sake of being able to remove said supports so they don’t get messed up when stored. Probably on the seam lining of the cuff and the actual long sleeve. That said the construction of the cuffs attaching to the sleeves is the lining of the cuffs is sewn to the long sleeves on the end of the cuff and the outside of the cuff to the inside linging of the long sleeve.
Have I figured out the order the sleeves actually need to be layered in to sew them together? Yes.
Have I also forgotten how the order of the layers goes as soon as I thought about it again? Also Yes.
Somewhere I have a note I think of the order to layer them when I sew them together so they flip right side out all the way right side out but as it stands i have no idea where said note is. Maybe in a text discussion somewhere. Or a screenshot. I’ll find it when I get back to that step and or rethink the right order again when I’m working on it.
Anyways, until next time and likely with craptastic sketches if I forget actual pictures again.
i love seeing my non-ygo followers in my notes going "what the actual Fuck happens in yugioh" because there is no adequate way to answer that question. everything happens. everything you can possibly think of that could ever happen, happens in yugioh.
wait a minute ok. i was about to start listing a bunch of absurd shit that goes down in this series but instead i'm just going to make my point by making it everybody else's problem instead
Which one of these events did NOT happen in the original yugioh manga or anime
Yami sets a man on fire in broad daylight at the local burger joint
Malik mind controls a mime and turns it into an unstoppable killing machine
Yugi confesses his love for Joey then gets dragged to the sea floor by an anchor
Seto stops a guy from shooting him by blocking the gun's hammer with a card
Ancient Egyptian laser beam battle
Bakura gouges out a man's eyeball and licks it
Yugi's grandpa tries to beat a ghost to death with a frying pan
Seto sacrifices god just so he can play another blue eyes white dragon
Yugi almost gets hanged to death by the yo-yo gang
Joey straight up dies (he gets better though don't worry)
i need to stress something. in this poll there are 10 options. 9 of them happened for real and are not exaggerations or worded to be intentionally misleading. there is 1 explicitly correct answer that did not, in any way shape or form, happen in either the anime or manga.
when this poll concludes next week i will reblog with receipts, as well as additional Things That Actually Happened that i was unable to fit on this poll. good luck and have fun!
Okay so good news is I got all of the pieces cut out!
Also the collar pattern is its own sort of complication of pattern drafting by tracing the curve of the neckline…and math appliance, namely, nets!
Which is the general shapes that if you glue them together along the edges they make this shape, like how a chunk of a circle rolled up makes a cone shape or how the dice in the Dungeon Dice Monsters episodes of Yu Gi Oh unfold into chunks of pathing.
So I made a chunk of a ring piece for the standing part of the collar first and as seen in the first picture, had to draw off lines for darts. The second picture is the chunk of circle ish shape I got free handing the curve after drawing about 10”(25.4mm looking at my measure tape) from the top edge of the standing part after seam allowance on both ends.
And then I just did half the mock-up collar to check for the length and if the edges hit in the middle of the back of the coat, and that the folded mess of the standing part was okay, I took said piece. And cut into the neckline seam allowance and adjusted the pattern piece into one flat funkier shape that should work with the notches cut in, as seen in the top parchment paper piece in the picture below.
So back on track of cutting out the pieces. So the greater nuisances of stretch fabrics when cutting them tends to be the edges curling. Remedied by tape on the edges.
The thing with velvet though is you have to cut the pieces out so the pile is all going the same direction, otherwise it’ll look funky cause the pile makes the fabric look darker especially if disturbed.
And by disturbed I mean if you run your fingers across it going against the pile itll be like the weird suede? I think it’s suede but I am not sure. That fabric that if you run your hand across it one way it looks darker from the rest of it and vice versa if you drag a finger back across it the opposite way it leaves it lighter.
That said, with velvet if you run your hand down the length of it all ways, generally speaking the smoothest way is how you’re *allegedly* supposed to cut it so whichever way you run your hand down it and it feels the smoothest/least resistance is how you want the top of the pattern pieces to go. Basically the with nap part of pattern piece cutting layouts. Like if you smooth your hand down said least resistance direction, lay the pattern pieces down top to bottom that direction.
Which brings me to the second nuisance of cutting the velvet, cutting it single layer to make sure all doubled not on a fold pattern pieces are cut the same. The most consistent way for this is by a lot of internet research with a rotary cutter, pattern weights, and a cutting mat which…I don’t have. It’s okay though i just used the mock-up pieces, pinned carefully, and cut with my fabric scissors very, very carefully. And the collar pieces on the inside of the collar CN the outside of the standing part I think in two with seam allowance cause nobody’s going to see the seam if it’s going to be against my neck or otherwise lying flat against my back.
I say i think cause I might’ve just put them all in a pile and cannot tell which pieces are which currently.
The same goes for the knit fabric I’m using except with the knit instead of pile to be used as the cut with nap method, you use the grainline. Which is to say all the tiny little ribs running nice and neat and straight parallel to the edges of the selvage/selvedge edge of the fabric. Namely the edge that you see at the end of the bolt that’s got the little pin holes all in it. And may or may not be a little fuzzy from fraying. If I had a picture I would show you but my phone camera will not pick up the grain on this stuff. Googling or whichever browser you prefer will likely yield a good picture of what exactly you’re looking for.
As of typing this I have the main body pieces of the lining sewn but not the sleeves. Not yet. Those I gotta do a lot of thinking on because I have to sew the longer sleeves all together with the fancy bulky cuffs and then sew those into the lining so that the longer sleeves stay on the inside of the lining of the shorter sleeve.
Anyways, that’s all for now, next update will likely be on how in the heck I sew the sleeves so they don’t get messed up.
So ive run into an issue with the pants in that all I can figure is they got to sit a bit and actually shrunk a little. Not much but enough that I measured to where the too tight is and added like. 3 inches(7.6cm ish) and that solved part of it while somehow making below that WORSE. In a my joints are constricted from bending way. So I ma’am now debating between trying to fix it or just. Making the pants again but adjusting a couple of sizes or more up which is it’s own debate mostly because the actual waist band?
It fits perfectly.
No I don’t know how that is either.
But this on top of potentially reworking the vest and corset. I may actually be redoing three whole pieces.
I’m not panicking at all because if I can manage to wrangle my focus to specifically these parts it won’t take long to redo them.
But when I do get them fixed I’ll post an update and it may or may not have mock-up coat work included.
Alright good news I got the pants redone, the vest fixed without having to redo it entirely and they fit and I have the mock-up pieces figured out and made based off an existing pattern I had.
Im also now realizing I didn’t mention which patterns I used that. Admittedly they’re all bought patterns but they were on sale when I got them a while ago and I have no idea if they still make them or if they’re on an internet archive or something or what.
The Vest: new look 6839(one of the guy vests but without the collar and welts and snaps instead of the buttons)
The Coat: simplicity 8554 modified a lot to be more fitted and the double sleeves I will explain with the mock-up adjustments
The Pants: butterick b6715 without the belt loop goobers and shortened
So! The mock-up pattern that. I might have forgotten to get a picture of intact with the gores and all.
So basically the gores are just those triangle shaped panels that are to add more fabric to the coat and make it more flowy. Not to be confused with godets which. Based on everything I saw looking at the different, are panels that are to be fancy standing ruffles that. Not gonna lie I think they look like a cupcake wrapper.
Anyways, the rest of the coat, the front piece I will have to add seam allowance to the inside edge. And the double sleeves. I pretty much just cut a second mock-up sleeve and just drew the edge after marking a line for where I wanted the shorter sleeve to come to and drew the little gap in the sleeve off of that and cut it to make sure it looked right. I widened the shorter sleeve out by drawing a line out from the edge where the sleeve is usually sewn together at the sides and connects to the main coat. The longer sleeve I also adjusted to be a little shorter and added a dart last year that I’m probably just gonna cut out with seam allowance this year to skip the dart step. And I added said dart so I didn’t have to make the shorter sleeve too much wider last year to the extent that it’d look more flatter point cap mushroom-y than a sleeve.
…I am realizing that description of a shape probably doesn’t make much sense but I can’t think of anything else to describe what sort of shape it would’ve been if it was too wide.
As for how I sew the double sleeves and not have the shorter one end up inside the longer one…if I’m remembering it right. Then I sewed the sleeves on last year’s disaster of an attempt with the shorter sleeve sewn wrong side to the right side of the longer sleeve and that sewn to the right side of the coat turned inside out.
Maybe. Genuinely I do not remember exactly, but mentally picturing it it sounds right.
Also, I have the collar to draft a mock-up of because frankly. I was wary of just extending the top of the coat as rectangles and adding gores so I am probably going to be making the collar by tracing the collar edge pieces and making longer rectangles and adding gores.
Yes, I realize that sounds like I’m doing exactly what I’m wary of but with more pieces. The more pieces part is why I’m less wary of doing the collar that way because I have seam allowance to match to the existing pattern.
Plus with as long as the collar is it won’t be too terribly noticeable because the collar will hide most of the seam bar a bit of the front.
With any luck, I’ll get this made up within a couple of weeks, remember to take pictures for the process, and have time to do the embroidery.
Until next time!
I think all houseplant care guides (including the little stakes they put in the soil when you buy one) should also include the expected lifespan of the plant. Not its flowers, the plant.
I feel like I’m left wondering if I killed the plant or if it was just its time way too often.
Also, it’d just be nice to know if the plant I’m buying will live for two more years or two more weeks
TOMATO ADVICE BLOG'S TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE TO "DID I KILL THIS HOUSEPLANT?" BASED ON MY TIME AS A RETAIL GREENHOUSE WORKER:
1. Look up if it's an annual, biannual or perennial first. Most houseplants are (supposed to be) perennials, but there are a few annuals/bianuals that get sold as houseplants. Amaryllis can survive for many years if properly potted and you have the mandate of heaven on your side, but they are annuals. That said, even an annual should live at least 5-6 months at minimum.
2. If it died very suddenly (like "looked kinda sad one day, worse the next and wholly deceased on day 3") a couple weeks after you got it? Not your fault. It was already infected with a greenhouse fungus when you got it, and there was nothing you could do for it.
Greenhouse fungi are extremely common and effect the majority of retail plants sold in the US: they spread virulently through greenhouses AND can infect any plants transported with them, and plants transported in the same truck afterwards. Outdoor plants have more resilience against them because other microrhyzal fungal colonies in their outdoor pots or garden beds will protect the plants, but houseplants are kind of screwed.
You can take a swing at mitigating this by immediately repotting any houseplants you receive with dirt from a pot/garden bed/part of the yard that has other plants actively growing in it (remove.other plants before putting that dirt in with your houseplant), and putting your houseplants outside when the weather is warm, but it's often a lot cause by the time you receive the plant.
Greenhouse fungi infections are the #1 killer of retail houseplants in my experience.
3. If your plant dies EXTREMELY suddenly, like "fine last night and dead this morning" something in the building it's kept in poisoned it.
Likely culprits: cats peeing in the dirt, small children pouring soda in there (sugar aggravates any infection it might have), shitty coworkers pouring coffee in there, and accidentally hitting it with a cleaning spray while you were sanitizing the kitchen counters.
4. If it dies very slowly over the course of a couple of weeks within a year of you getting it, I'm afraid you probably killed it. The two main ways people kill houseplants are
A) Over Watering. How to fix it: keep your plant pots in a large, high-sided, no- drainage container like a large Tupperware or boot tray. Once a week (twice when AND ONLY WHEN it gets to be +80 farenheit in the room where the plant lives) fill the container with an inch or two of water, and let the plants absorb it through the bottoms of their pots, AND DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THIS SCHEDULE. If you must deviate, err on the side of under-watering them, that's a lot easier for a plant to recover from.
B) Not Enough Light. Most houseplants are tropical understory plants because those are the only ones that will tolerate the "Total Shade" level of ambient light in most houses. Succulents, cacti and most woody houseplants are not understory plants. They need 8-12 hours full spectrum light, and most glass that windows are made of block a large part of the spectrum they need. Get some grow lights. You can use the purple ones as fun night lights for your house that won't mess up your vision or sleep cycle when you get up in the middle of the night!
C) Not "common" but often enough: over-feeding. Potting soil does not need that much amending, and adding plant food to fresh potting soil will scorch the roots. Don't.
5. If your perennial plant that was thriving suddenly dies after three years, ESPECIALLY if it was an orchid: not your fault! The way that many greenhouse plants are grown is FUCKED.
Orchids in particular are doomed: orchids are heavily specialized and extremely dependent on microrhyzal fungi to stay alive. Like, parasitically dependent. As in, orchids make literally millions of microscopic seeds in hopes that one will land somewhere that has the extremely specific species of tropical fungus that orchid can hack to stay alive. Because the orchid's fungal needs are so key and so specific, greenhouse orchids are grown in a way that dooms them to tragically brief lifespans.
Greenhouse orchids are grown in sterile conditions by placing the seeds in agar and pumping them full of growth hormones and food tailored to that species exact needs (that's why there's only a couple dozen commercially sold orchids of the tens of thousands of species in the family), and continue pumping them full of their specific super food until they're large enough to be sold, and they're usually sold with Orchid Food.
Imagine growing a baby in a test tube, but the baby's immune system comes from bacteria it would be exposed to in uetero, so your lab baby has no immune system, so you feed it shitloads of vitamins to prop it up against infections. How long do you think that baby would survive outside of the lab, even if it's keeper kept up the vitamin regimen?
In the case of most orchids, about three years.
You CAN make an attempt to save your doomed bubble baby. You can go outside, find SEVERAL places full of vigorous and lively plants, pull up one of those plants (preferably one that doesn't regerminate from severed roots, like thistles) knock the handful of dirt that comes up with it into your collection of Very Alive Plant Dirts, and repot your orchid in a well-drained pot with that mixture and some orchid soil. IF YOU ARE EXTREMELY LUCKY, there will be a microrhyzal fungus in your wild dirt samples that is close enough to your orchid's host species that it will be able to accept it as it's new immune system. This is literally a one-in-a-million shot, but I *have* seen it work, and the rescued orchids live for DECADES.
Godspeed.
This is awesome advice but also from experience:
If you live somewhere VERY DIFFERENT from the American Midwest and/or Western Europe, try to find advice for your actual climate. This may be difficult or impossible; you will have to learn to translate.
Even for houseplants, this is unfortunately relevant. For instance, living in California:
Mold and mildew are rarely issues, it's a desert. Sunscald is a huge issue. Plants may need sunshades or to be moved away from sunny windows, even if they're "full sun" (which can take some finagling to get them well-fed but not burned).
Insect pests are pretty different. Not only are the species different, but because temperatures don't dip below freezing, many pests are year-round issues and have to be managed as such. (Fucking spider mites.)
Plant dormancy can be... weird, and pretty species-dependent. If it's cold-related, they may not die or go dormant. If it's light-related, they probably will. If it's just a biological timer, then it's probably unaffected.
This means that the "annual vs. perennial" question can be ... fun??? Did you know that tomatoes are perennials? Because I learned that this year.
That's a good point about climate differences- my mom used to plant amaryllis in the ground when we lived in the Bay Area and they'd be functionally immortal but in Colorado amaryllis is an annual unless you keep it as an indoor plant. We also had a neighbor with a tomato plant that was old enough to go to college when we were living in California, so yeah, climate plays a big role in the expected lifespan of a plant.
Some other things from the notes:
- I'm going to be driving in a minute but there's a really good in-depth guide to repotting orchids for maximum success in the reblogs
- someone was surprised to learn that plants have expected lifespans and you know what? Fair. There are many plants who are functionally immortal in their preferred climates, trees that live thousands of years etc. but yes: many plants have pretty short lifespans, where they germinate/sprout Whalen it's warm enough in the spring, grow as much as possible, then dump all their energy into making seeds, and die. Some dandelions have a lifespan measured in weeks- if you watch, the plant that flowers/seeds dies and new plants come up from its roots.
- which is also a form of plant dormancy! Some plants die-die in winter and in spring it's the next generation you're seeing. Others just cut everything off above the ground, chill as roots all winter and sprout again in spring. Most grasses do this, which is why they're so essential to soil health- those roots are load-bearing structures that have been there for decades, if not longer.
- lots of people suggesting Christmas Cactus in the notes as a beginner houseplant because it's non-toxic to pets, very resilient, and the cuttings are very easy to shoplift.
I’m just sitting here baffled at the orchids are doomed bit cause I know that until the mealy bugs got. All but three of my 20 something phalaenopsis/moth orchids I had a bunch that were from when I was in high school like. A literal decade ago that I did literally nothing except put them in a west window and after the move a south window that now exists and. They were happy? Like grew well repotted them with just the orchid bark a couple of times and they were happy enough to live and bloom? And sometimes grow another bloom spike from chopping the dead part off.
That said the new major problem of getting new clearance orchids that are mealy bug free is that despite the many. Many times I have said DO NOT PUT THE NEW ONES AT THE WINDOWS WITH THE OLD ONES they get put there and get infested in a week at most to the extent I have said the heck with it and just. Got a poofy makeup brush and just snowed them all with diatomaceous earth(that took a solid minute of remembering the order of the letters to type that). It works for the violets so with any luck it’ll work for the orchids.
That said I probably should go give them orchid food but I also just gave them their weekly water yesterday.
So ive run into an issue with the pants in that all I can figure is they got to sit a bit and actually shrunk a little. Not much but enough that I measured to where the too tight is and added like. 3 inches(7.6cm ish) and that solved part of it while somehow making below that WORSE. In a my joints are constricted from bending way. So I ma’am now debating between trying to fix it or just. Making the pants again but adjusting a couple of sizes or more up which is it’s own debate mostly because the actual waist band?
It fits perfectly.
No I don’t know how that is either.
But this on top of potentially reworking the vest and corset. I may actually be redoing three whole pieces.
I’m not panicking at all because if I can manage to wrangle my focus to specifically these parts it won’t take long to redo them.
But when I do get them fixed I’ll post an update and it may or may not have mock-up coat work included.
It’s update time and guess who got zip ties for the thinner bones of this corset?
Anyways, I spent the last….2? 2 and a half? hours sewing most of the boning channels to this thing.
I continue to underestimate just how much the camera on my phone manages to unfocus between a pretty clear photo and hitting the button to take the picture.
I figured for adding the channels for the lining and had a thought of wait, these go in the seam anyways, just do double channels with the seam allowances. And that said, zip ties while apparently according to Reddit are good enough for a cheap alternative to actual boning, also tend to not quite reach 1/4”(6.35mm) wide. They tend to be 3/16”(4.76mm) for thinner ones and everywhere here the 24”(60.96cm) long ones are 3/8”(9.53mm) wide. So those are going in the center and on either side of the grommets.
Now this is….how many pieces do I have? 10 per half? 20 pieces and two channels per seam and 19 seams because I haven’t sewn the channels on the edges of the corset yet. 38 boning channels in two, two and a half hours and this may seem fast. Or it might not. Idk how long boning channels usually take. Anyways, this is because I found after sewing by mistake cause I forgot I’m using the seam to wrap over the edge of the lining because when I cut the lining I did a dumb and forgot to add the seam allowance to the edge from the adjusted pattern piece from the mock up.
Well. I sewed one of the thicker zip ties as a guide and checked it and found out a neat little detail, this and with one of the smaller zip ties. And found out the little hole in the foot where the needle goes with the 5/8”(1.59cm) seam allowances edge at the edge of that hole is perfect for the big zip ties and the seam itself at either side of the foot and sewing the seam allowance flat is likewise perfect for the thinner zip ties.
Will this work with any other brand machine foot? I have no idea I just know it worked with mine and didn’t question it for worry of jinxing it and likely causing the machine to decide to jam.
Anyways, i ended work for the night on this with sewing the top seam.
But Lantern, why the top? Well. The top edges of both halves are an even line. The bottom edges. Look like Jack O Lantern teeth. Which I’ll probably be trimming for sake of ease of sewing an even seam.
Thats all for now, now I go to spectate my friends slaying or suffering in IDV, there seems to be no in between.
ALRIGHT ITS UPDATE TIME
And several things have occurred.
For one, The corset works! I had to seam rip the top seam too after I trimmed the bottom edges to be able to get the zip tie bones in the gussets a lot easier but it works! The grommets were simple enough after just kinda. Cutting little plus signs on where I wanted them and doing as the intructions say in putting the taller piece down on the black piece, the fabric hole over that, then the shorter washer piece down, and using the setter and hammering it carefully.
The way I used to cut the zip ties to slightly shorter than the channels: stick them in as far as they’ll go and then just. Pull out a bit and use your finger as a guide for where the fabric stopped with the ties shoved in all the way, mark that spot, and cut them a bit more than your seam allowance away from the mark you made. I went with what probably ended up more than 1/8”(3.175 mm) and just folded the seam allowance back in and just sewed the lining and the outside back together. For the lace. I used what is either 1/2”(12.7 mm) or 3/4”(19.05 mm) or somewhere in between that for laces and. I might have measured the ribbon by lacing myself up in it and adding what is at least 2’(60.96 cm) or 3’(91.44 cm).
Yes I left the laces in there after I got out of it mostly so I can find the ends of the ribbon again a bit more easily.
I have the pants. Mostly done but apparently the sizes are goofed in that sizing up for the waist and sitting at the pattern size a size up for the hips. Is tight at the hips. Which in turn pulls the zipper pieces to the side. And makes it obvious that despite the size being one up from what the pattern measurements say, it clearly is tight and so that becomes an interesting issues of adding fabric around the bottom of the edge of the pockets. But at the least I got the line/grooved look done!
For the lines. I kinda just drew a bunch of straight lines spaced 1 and 9/16 of an inch(3.97cm) apart to account a little bit for the stupidly narrow little ridges I sewed on the inside so the seam of said ridge on the outside gives that funky grooved look enough.
And thats about it for now cause I might have forgotten that the front of the vest for one has its own gap at the front edges with the snaps and also tapers upward and reaches upwards a decent bit.
Like waist high. I may or may not need to somehow shorten the corset.
It’ll be fine. Someway, somehow it will.
Edit: forgot the metric version of 1 and 9/16 inches
it's kind of sad that we don't really do custom ringtones anymore. most people just stick with the default list that comes with your phone, if they change it at all. if they're even aware they can change it at all. like yeah, people letting their phones ring in public is obnoxious, but wouldn't it be a little less obnoxious if it was something funny? or personal? people used to change the text tone of every contact so every time they got a text they knew who it was just from the sound. isn't that sweet? isn't that nice? don't you miss it? don't you want to scream when you hear that stupid apple pa-Ting!??? we could have a chorus of awoogas and clips of people's favorite songs and recordings saying '(blank) IS CALLING, WARNING, (blank) IS CALLING' and all things considered i would prefer that over pa-Ting!, pa-Ting!, pa-Ting!, whistle whistle, pa-Ting!
anyway im going to change my ringtone to the oldschool skype call sound and nobody will ever hear it because my phone is always on silent but i'll know. i'll know
Y'ALL DO YOU HAVE A CUSTOM RINGTONE/TEXT TONE??
Yes!
No!
I have four ringtones and two are seasonal for the season that is Christmas time. The default is the Halloween Theme for people not on my contacts list so I know vaguely as to if I answer it or not, and contacts are set to the Gravity Falls theme. Both are loud and for Christmas season Halloween theme gets replaced by the Gremlins Theme and the Gravity Falls theme gets changed to Lampoon’s. Close second for year round not in my contacts was gonna be the Lullaby that Dead By Daylight’s Huntress hums that I know. Most of the letters in the name but not quite the order one moment.
Bayushki Bayu, oh good i did have the letters in order just the words backwards. But yeah it was a close second but decided against cause I worried that it wouldn’t be loud enough.
It’s update time and guess who got zip ties for the thinner bones of this corset?
Anyways, I spent the last….2? 2 and a half? hours sewing most of the boning channels to this thing.
I continue to underestimate just how much the camera on my phone manages to unfocus between a pretty clear photo and hitting the button to take the picture.
I figured for adding the channels for the lining and had a thought of wait, these go in the seam anyways, just do double channels with the seam allowances. And that said, zip ties while apparently according to Reddit are good enough for a cheap alternative to actual boning, also tend to not quite reach 1/4”(6.35mm) wide. They tend to be 3/16”(4.76mm) for thinner ones and everywhere here the 24”(60.96cm) long ones are 3/8”(9.53mm) wide. So those are going in the center and on either side of the grommets.
Now this is….how many pieces do I have? 10 per half? 20 pieces and two channels per seam and 19 seams because I haven’t sewn the channels on the edges of the corset yet. 38 boning channels in two, two and a half hours and this may seem fast. Or it might not. Idk how long boning channels usually take. Anyways, this is because I found after sewing by mistake cause I forgot I’m using the seam to wrap over the edge of the lining because when I cut the lining I did a dumb and forgot to add the seam allowance to the edge from the adjusted pattern piece from the mock up.
Well. I sewed one of the thicker zip ties as a guide and checked it and found out a neat little detail, this and with one of the smaller zip ties. And found out the little hole in the foot where the needle goes with the 5/8”(1.59cm) seam allowances edge at the edge of that hole is perfect for the big zip ties and the seam itself at either side of the foot and sewing the seam allowance flat is likewise perfect for the thinner zip ties.
Will this work with any other brand machine foot? I have no idea I just know it worked with mine and didn’t question it for worry of jinxing it and likely causing the machine to decide to jam.
Anyways, i ended work for the night on this with sewing the top seam.
But Lantern, why the top? Well. The top edges of both halves are an even line. The bottom edges. Look like Jack O Lantern teeth. Which I’ll probably be trimming for sake of ease of sewing an even seam.
Thats all for now, now I go to spectate my friends slaying or suffering in IDV, there seems to be no in between.
people should just embrace jewel tones already if I see one more house entirely decorated in washed out neutral colours I’m gonna sue someone
hell is not a fiery demon pit its a never ending white and cream minimalist apartment, every time someone paints a room entirely white and adds a pale blue throw cushion for “a splash of colour” they are carrying out the work of the devil
#fuck resale values my mental health comes first
Writing one’s home-nesting tendencies around resale value is itself playing into the Devil’s hands.
Paint your walls. Install catwalks for your kitties. Transform your home into a hobbit-hole or the innermost chambers of a D&D dungeon owned by a particularly campy lich. Grow a rainforest of plants in your southern-exposure window rooms or strangle your house in vines.
Horrify the Petunia Dursleys of the world by your mere existence, and be happy.
A while ago Facebook kept trying to advertise some kind of design magazine/website to me with an article “The Most Colour-Soaked Home We’ve Ever Seen” and I finally clicked the link and all the pictures were a bunch of white and off-white rooms with a couple of vases and books in bright colours scattered around. Like bitch you’re advertising this to me in Atlantic Canada we don’t do “splashes of colour” we let the floodgates open. Your lame-ass pallid designs have no power here.
When it’s foggy 350 days of the year, you’ve got to be able to pick out your own house from a distance.
,,,,Fuck
I almost started crying because?????? They’re so pretty??????????????
I literally just added three more brighter but less saturated green paint chips to the actual sponge of a fricking wall I tried and will try again to paint green. That green in the last picture is the color I’m trying to match and failing miserably.
ALRIGHT AFTER…how long has it been? 4 weeks? Longer? Whoops but life happens and currently that is in the form of finding out the dudes who built on the second bathroom for one messed up the tape and for two didn’t seal the drywall.
At all. No drywall sealer no paint primer absolutely ZILCH. How do we know they didn’t? Well. Pretty sure paint aint supposed to peel off the walls like layers of nail polish and or dead skin after a horrendous sunburn. And that said side against the wall be the paint color with bits of the paper fibers from the drywall stuck to it.
Anywho the sewing update: because I thought it was more economical and probably because I unconsciously make myself suffer from my choices, I ordered the poplin for the vest and pants and the long part of the sleeves of the coat.
But wait, that doesn’t sound horrible. Well. I ordered as opposed to 4 yards (3.66m) of an average 45/60” (1.15/1.5m) wide fabric, I order 2 yards (1.83m) of 118” (2.99m) fabric.
There is no large enough space to lay all of that out flat.
So I just smoothed out an end to cut the pieces out from and had the rest of it just kinda piled to the side against the hallway wall.
I got everything cut out for the vest and pants interfacing included and I went to get the cut out corset pieces of lining, canvas, and two layers of medium interfacing that I have left from last year’s attempt. That I still have more of.
Featuring the half inch bias tape I have to use as vest detailing once I paint it silver with the actual non heat set Tulip brush on fabric paint. And so the past couple hours have been basting the interfacing in place on the corset pieces and the front vest pieces with overlock thread as opposed to the regular sewing thread.
Behold the pile this was in. I got the canvas outside all sewn together and I am in the process of just yanking the basting out from where I put it offset 1/8” (3mm) from the seam allowance seam with the biggest stitch my machine can make that I know of. Namely a 4 on the little stitch length dial.
Anyways thats all for now because in my time that I’m not working on this I am driving myself insane with trying to figure out the lights before I even get the coat done enough to measure and guess how much lights this will need.
Mostly because after staring at Necromancer’s glowing that fades in and out, or rather dims in and out, I’ve noticed that his eyes and the cracks are synced but not his hair. So coding lights is gonna be interesting to figure out later.
Update time!
Turns out, the heavy duty zip ties are 3/8” thick so I’ll probably be using those for boning the center front seam and the spaces around the grommets, and until sometime this weekend when I go to Harbor freight to see if their longer 20 pack of zip ties are equally thick or not, I got to sewing on the vest.
…And promptly forgot to take pictures of most of my progress. I’m using a simplicity pattern I got a while ago when hobby lobby still had either 99 cent or $2 pattern sales and I have made the snaps as invisible as I possibly can.
But the snaps!
Yes that is a cheap little plastic hammer snap thing from hobby lobby.
So I read the instructions and forgot to get a picture while I got the hole half of the snaps set, but the instructions. The source of a surprisingly part of negative reviews for a lot of snap setters is apparently because the plastic broke which. Yeah fair but I also have to wonder if they treated the plastic like a really stubborn nail. That said I’ve had no problems with this asides from getting them slotted into the little dent the base pieces fits into and getting the top aligned before I realized that middle part was separate from the top.
Listen I read the instructions and somehow missed entirely the mention of the middle being a separate movable piece to help place the snap parts of the snaps.
But anyways, they turned out good I think! At the very least they stay attached and snap and unsnap XD.
And thats about what progress I have until I get some sort of buckle for the little back belt and get the trim painted silver.
Next I’m either sewing the pants plus adding the lines details or sewing the boning channels into the corset, depending on if I get zip ties first or not.
ALRIGHT AFTER…how long has it been? 4 weeks? Longer? Whoops but life happens and currently that is in the form of finding out the dudes who built on the second bathroom for one messed up the tape and for two didn’t seal the drywall.
At all. No drywall sealer no paint primer absolutely ZILCH. How do we know they didn’t? Well. Pretty sure paint aint supposed to peel off the walls like layers of nail polish and or dead skin after a horrendous sunburn. And that said side against the wall be the paint color with bits of the paper fibers from the drywall stuck to it.
Anywho the sewing update: because I thought it was more economical and probably because I unconsciously make myself suffer from my choices, I ordered the poplin for the vest and pants and the long part of the sleeves of the coat.
But wait, that doesn’t sound horrible. Well. I ordered as opposed to 4 yards (3.66m) of an average 45/60” (1.15/1.5m) wide fabric, I order 2 yards (1.83m) of 118” (2.99m) fabric.
There is no large enough space to lay all of that out flat.
So I just smoothed out an end to cut the pieces out from and had the rest of it just kinda piled to the side against the hallway wall.
I got everything cut out for the vest and pants interfacing included and I went to get the cut out corset pieces of lining, canvas, and two layers of medium interfacing that I have left from last year’s attempt. That I still have more of.
Featuring the half inch bias tape I have to use as vest detailing once I paint it silver with the actual non heat set Tulip brush on fabric paint. And so the past couple hours have been basting the interfacing in place on the corset pieces and the front vest pieces with overlock thread as opposed to the regular sewing thread.
Behold the pile this was in. I got the canvas outside all sewn together and I am in the process of just yanking the basting out from where I put it offset 1/8” (3mm) from the seam allowance seam with the biggest stitch my machine can make that I know of. Namely a 4 on the little stitch length dial.
Anyways thats all for now because in my time that I’m not working on this I am driving myself insane with trying to figure out the lights before I even get the coat done enough to measure and guess how much lights this will need.
Mostly because after staring at Necromancer’s glowing that fades in and out, or rather dims in and out, I’ve noticed that his eyes and the cracks are synced but not his hair. So coding lights is gonna be interesting to figure out later.
Can you name the US states?
take this sporcle quiz: how did you do?
usamerican, less than 20 states
not usamerican , less than 20 states
usamerican, 20-39 states
not usamerican, 20-39 states
usamerican, 40-49 states
not usamerican, 40-49 states
usamerican, all 50 in 8-10 minutes
not usamerican, all 50 in 8-10 minutes
usamerican, all 50 in 6-8 minutes
not usamerican, all 50 in 6-8 minutes
usamerican, all 50 in less than 6 minutes
not usamerican, all 50 in less than 6 minutes
Us American and all fifty with 7:20 left on the 10 minute timer so thats…2:40? Granted I do the name em all Pokémon quiz thing a lot and the map helps way more than Pokédex order even though I can’t see half the map because of the keyboard but I just kinda went in a funky squiggle with naming.
And also forgot Connecticut in my “name all the tiny ones now so you don’t have to squint to pick out which one doesn’t have the name on it” name binge.
