In the latter half of the 1850s, we truly begin to solidify the shapes and tailoring of the next decade. The cage crinoline was invented in 1856, and that allowed for even a more robust (and flammable) approach to skirt material draping. I've often said it, but it's true: both the panniers of the 18th century and the crinolines and petticoats of the 19th century are simply a way to flaunt wealth as ostentatiously as possible. Why? Because fabric is wealth.
This gown is silk. And not just a single color, but a striped and patterned silk. It took my brain a little while to register what exactly I was looking at (especially the bodice) because the piecing of the pattern almost make it look like there's a blue sheer fabric over it. It's not! Just a whole lot going on.
However, that tailoring is quite clever as it gives the appearance of the bodice having a central floral feature, almost like embroidery, from a distance.
This late 1850s gown is lots of silk, but it's also by the house of Elise. Elise was a tailor for the richest clientele, but also one known for her horrible labor practices (you can read more about that here).
What do you think of this one? I'm a bit on the fence.
