A while back @shalimars-insights wondered whether wigs are fashionable in the Summerset isles and since I love it when my niche interests collide, here are some totally not self-indulgent headcanons about wigs (and a few other things) in altmeri culture.
Before we get to the specifics of altmeri wig couture, we first need to understand why wigs were (and still are) used in the first place. Now keep in mind that I’m no expert on wig couture in ancient cultures like Rome, Assyria, and Egypt; my interest begins and ends with the wigs or perukes worn throughout the 17th and 18th century. Still, the reasons for wearing a wig are largely the same, with the exception of wigs as part of religious or ritual uniforms: hygiene, fashion and, of course, hair loss.
In the 16th century, wigs were reintroduced to European culture, the most famous example being the tight curls of Elizabeth I. This happened for two reasons: The abysmal hygienic conditions and the syphilis epidemic which started around that time.
Syphilis, an STD, lead to open sores and hair loss, among other often more severe symptoms including death.
Of course, this does not mean that every wiggy had syphilis, but during the 17th century it led to a rise of wig wearing in the French aristocracy which was then emulated by royalty around Europe as well as the lower classes.
Wigs were also easier to clean than natural hair, which was a great advantage since pretty much everyone had lice.
So what about wigs in the Summerset Isles?
Well, what we’ve been shown of the Summerset isles suggests a society that’s meticulously maintained and obsessed with perfection, with the path to Alaxon. That, mixed with the fact that many altmer have bathtubs in their home (And magic makes heating water much easier than the hour long real life process), makes it unlikely that wigs would catch on for hygienic reasons. As for fashion, considering how obsessed altmer are with achieving perfection it might seem like wigs would be something they’d be into, however, altmer are also obsessed with genealogy and bloodlines.
So I think it’s more likely that altmer favour natural beauty with only minor enhancements. One likes to show off one's superior heritage, right?
Should an altmer go bald it is more acceptable to wear that baldness openly than to use a wig which might potentially hide undesirable blemishes or other flaws.
Still, there are altmer that resort to wig wearing, both among the upper and lower classes. Among the lower classes wigs aren’t as stigmatized as they are among the upper classes because of the aforementioned hygienic reasons. There are even altmer who prefer shaving their head and wearing wigs for simplicity’s sake. Wigs are also popular among the prostitutes hiding in the underbellies of Summerset’s shining cities, for they allow them to better cater to their customer’s tastes.
The Wigmakers of the Summerset Isles cater to those demands; most cheaper wigs are made from plant fiber or animal hair such as horse hair (more expensive) or goat hair (cheaper), though middle class wigs are sometimes also made from low quality (I.e. damaged) hair.
Few wigmakers are capable of creating wigs satisfying the demands of rich, upper class customers so those who can have carved a niche for themselves and closely guard their trade secrets and supply lines. Expensive wigs are made from elven or human hair, though the latter is a bit cheaper. There is a black market satisfying the demand for real elven hair; such hair is often taken from altmer who’ve fallen upon hard times, corpses or even apraxic altmer, albeit the last two options are frowned upon for obvious reasons.
Wig styles are varied and depend entirely on the customer, though long or curly hair is far more expensive.
Most wigs used by the lower classes come in short or mid-length (often ponytail or otherwise braided) styles that are lightweight and won’t compromise the wearer.
Expensive wigs can come in any style imaginable although long curls are in particularly high demand among rich customers who want to flaunt their wealth. Long styles with woven-in accessories like beads or sometimes even strands of gold are also popular. Long wigs are, as mentioned, typically worn by the rich - particularly those who don't do any physical work, as big, elaborate wigs¹ can be incredibly heavy.
Wiggies in the military are a rare sight, but they typically wear short wigs even if they're rich. Wearing a heavy wig whilst having a military rank is seen as a sign that the wearer isn't taking their duties seriously.
An altmer wearing a big wig needs to beware; they're worth a fortune and wig snatching may occur in dark alleyways or during a stroll through the Summerset countryside.²
Wigs in altmeri pop culture
Altmeri theatre has a long history of using wigs, however, they're usually made to look as natural as possible in accordance with the role; the spectator is not supposed to see the wig as part of a costume but fall for the illusion.
Characters who wear recognizable wigs often have something to hide. They're most often villains but may also fit the mysterious stranger or masked hero archetypes. If the character's secret is revealed the wig usually comes off as well. From the stage this association with secrecy spread further into literature but as with all tropes, some authors choose to subvert the "Wiggy with a secret" trope to play with the reader's expectations.
Wig wearers around the Summerset Isles often dislike the trope since it further enforces the notion that they're untrustworthy.
Another though less common trope due to strict obscenity laws is the "promiscuous wiggy". This trope stems from the use of wigs by prostitutes and, ironically, actors. The trope is not bound to any character archetype; it can be anyone from the hedonistic noble to the dirty old geezer, the cheating husband/wife, the prostitute - of course - and many more.
Like the "wiggy with a secret", the promiscuous wiggy is regarded with scrutiny by the wig wearing community. However, this trope has not seeped into public consciousness like the "wiggy with a secret".
Wearing wigs to balls and formal banquets is frowned upon and some hosts may even view it as an insult. Wearing a wig to court is forbidden (as is wearing masks or clothing with too many pockets or places to hide stuff); one is expected to stand before the queen with honest intentions and nothing to hide.
In fact, there are few high ranking positions that don't frown upon wig wearing, although few have explicit rules against it.
Among scholars wigs have developed as vaguely counter cultural expressions. For example, Sapiarchs would don wigs to distance themselves from their peers or even the institution. This would mark them as innovative to some and worthy of distrust to others.
Priests aren't universally forbidden from wearing wigs; it depends on the divine they serve, their rank within the clergy, etc. However, the implications brought on by a wig are enough to keep most priests from wearing any.
Authorities like the Divine Prosecution are fairly tolerant of wigs. In fact, wigs are sometimes used for undercover investigation. Still, if a Justiciar or Chief Justiciar takes on a representative job, they're expected to go natural.
Although Justiciars often also function as judges, we have some clues that the Summerset Isles also have a fixed court system.
Barrister's wigs aren’t a thing in altmeri culture. The wig's function, to "distance" the judges from the job they perform, is instead fulfilled by wooden masks worn by jurisreeves, justiciars and bailiffs alike. This practice also has other functions, such as providing complete neutrality and preventing criminals from identifying the officials that sentenced them and potentially exacting revenge.
Wig powder and hairpieces
Although powdering wigs is not part of everyday altmeri wig care, scented and even coloured powders are popular among wig wearers and non-wig wearers alike.
Coloured powders often come, due to the base often being made of white starch (like in real life), in pastel tones rather than vivid, bright colours - powders and other materials to achieve that exist too, though.
Some altmer will even comb some powdered mother of pearl into their hair to make it shimmer.
In altmeri fashion, the subtle use of colour is considered chic, however, use even a little too much and it's seen as tacky.
Also, when speaking about 18th century inspired wigs, it's necessary to at least mention the pouf. If you've ever seen a picture of an 18th century woman with a huge, huge updo, that's called a "Pouf".
And no, those usually weren't wigs but real hair held in place with wire, pig fat, and hair cushions which was then sometimes supplemented with hairpieces. The pouf was an expression of creativity and often adorned with themed ornaments. The link at the end contains some interesting pictures and caricatures.
In altmeri culture updos if that size and shape are unheard of, however, more elaborate hairdos sometimes employ wire, cushions and/or hairpieces carefully hidden among the wearer's natural hair. Such additions come under less scrutiny than full wigs, but an altmer courtier would still be embarrassed if it was found out they make use of these enhancements.
Themed hair accessories are a big thing among fashionable altmer; you won't see any of them putting a miniature boat in their hair like Marie Antoinette, but a captain would, for example, wear elaborate braids in the style of sailor knots adorned with steering wheel shaped beads, a soldier might wear sword shaped hairpins, etc.
Such ornamentation isn't limited to professions but can be themed according to current events, the season or simply the wearer's personal preference.
Whew, what a post. I never intended for this to become this long, but I couldn't stop myself; I just love 17th+18th century wigs, ok? And my own little wiggy altmer, of course.
Notes and further information
¹ The term "Bigwig" denoting an important person stems from the use of large, expensive wigs by distinguished men.
² Yes, snatching expensive wigs off people's heads was indeed something to beware off in the 18th century. The link below contains some information as well as an excerpt from a poem by John Gay regarding the subject.
I've dedicated most of my degree to 18th century British literature so a lot of this information stems from my lectures, however, this link contains some interesting information with pictures and further sources.