DSTLD

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DSTLD’s Essential Mix: October 2017

Is it fall yet? This month, our playlist reflects the endless summer we’ve been experiencing here in Los Angeles with music by Shallou, Classixx, Mark Ronson and more. Plus, if you’ve been searching for the perfect mix for Halloween weekend, DSTLD's co-founder Corey Epstein put together an hour long Dia De Muertos mix on Soundcloud. Happy listening.

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The Creative Class: Brooklyn Cartoons

Image courtesy of Brooklyn Cartoons

Meet Brooklyn Cartoons. The Instagram account responsible for shining a satirical light on millennial lifestyle. Conceived by artist and designer Emmet Truxes, Brooklyn Cartoons acts as both an observer and a mirror to a demographic who gets a bad rep for appearing to prioritize taking the perfect selfie. Emmet has found his niche in a community of Instagram accounts where content is passed around like Buzzfeed’s quiz at work that tells you what kind of pizza you are. His content and original illustrations stand out for his clever depiction of an insatiable group impacted by technology and a refusal to settle like generation’s past. With a newly released book aptly titled You Look Better Online, DSTLD sat down with Emmet to discuss his career, creative process, and what’s next for his brand.

Emmet is wearing DSTLD’s Skinny Slim Jeans in Charcoal, Crew Neck Tee in Black and Snap Button Down Denim Shirt in Midnight Blue 

DSTLD: Tell us how Brooklyn Cartoons came to life, and why the name?

ET: I started developing my cartoon aesthetic about 12 years ago in college. I was getting published in a weekly student newspaper, and finding the observational voice about our generation that people would recognize now. After graduating in 2006, I moved to Brooklyn and tried to keep cartooning, but I was in my early twenties and it was impossible to draw with all the exploring, going out, and life lessons to be learned. Nevertheless, it was during this time that I first put the words “Brooklyn” and “Cartoons” together, alongside a kernel of an idea about using this moniker to draw cartoons about our generation. So I grabbed the dot com in 2007, but after the financial crash in 2008 decided it would be a good idea to wait out the recession studying architecture in graduate school. And, as you may have heard, the culture in architecture school forces you to basically eat, sleep and shit architecture 24/7, so I had to put cartooning on hold for four years. It wasn’t until I graduated, got married, settled down in Williamsburg, and then moved out here to Los Angeles in late 2014 that I finally had the time to build the account. At the beginning, I really missed Brooklyn, and used the account as a means of connecting back to the city. But the more I got comfortable living in Los Angeles, the more I realized the obvious - that there’s a Brooklyn-ness that transcends its namesake and is spread throughout the country, embodied in our generation’s culture and values.

Brooklyn Cartoons for DSTLD. Image courtesy of Brooklyn Cartoons.

DSTLD: Your cartoons are a similar style The New Yorker's iconic cartoons. How has the publication’s cartoons, and what others if any, influenced you?

ET: When I was growing up, I’d grab the comics section from the newspaper every morning before school and read Calvin and Hobbes, Far Side and Non Sequitur, and we also had all the Tintin and Maus books lying around. All of these were hugely influential on me as a young artist. But yes, for a kid growing up in a small town a couple of hours from New York City, the absurdity of city life on display in the single panel cartoons in The New Yorker was especially alluring. Fast forward to the present, and the parallels between brooklyncartoons and The New Yorker cartoons are intentional: the single panels with italicized text underneath, the black and white drawings, etc. But my account is really more of a mashup between this classic format and the meme format, in which text, often times dialogue, is placed above an image. Having the flexibility to move between these two formats is huge and it opens up the possibilities to build out the characters and scenes a bit more. I’m a huge fan of memes when they’re done well, and think that if a cartoon is fundamentally just an image combined with text, then memes are the rapid fire, crowdsourced, socially-driven cartoons of our generation and such an exciting creative medium. I’ve also been hugely fortunate to be a part of the meme community on Instagram and to have collaborated with the creators behind a number of brilliant accounts.

Emmet is wearing DSTLD’s Skinny Slim Jean in Charcoal and Crew Neck Tee in Black 

DSTLD: Tell us a little bit about your creative process. How do you come up with topics to draw? 

ET: It’s a mix of what I see on social media and in real life. Being part of the meme community provides a nice window into what’s trending and what threads might be worn out. Offline I’m fortunate to have hilarious friends, and there are definitely times when we’re out that I’ll overhear or observe something and immediately make note of it, usually after exclaiming “oh shit, that’s a cartoon right there.” I email myself a rough caption or scene idea and will then tweak it, sometimes for weeks, until it’s ready to be illustrated. When I start sketching I have no idea what the final result is going to be, which makes the whole act of creation this fun, improvisational flow state. I draw everything using a digital pen on a Wacom mobile tablet (back in the day I inked with technical pens and watercolor, and then had to scan and edit) and once I finish the illustration, it gets exported into Photoshop, where I add the caption and tweak the levels. From there it gets posted onto Instagram directly into the hands of my followers.

"It will never stop blowing my mind how easy it is right now for artists and musicians to have a direct line to their fans."

Emmet is wearing DSTLD’s Crewneck Tee in Black

DSTLD: How has the move from Brooklyn to Los Angeles changed how you approach your work?

ET: I think it’s safe to say that a lot of my content is universal and accessible to anyone with a smartphone, struggling with adulthood, or plugged into the culture. And yeah, there’s definitely some Los Angeles specific settings and subjects: palm trees! car culture! Kombucha on tap! But beyond that, moving from Brooklyn to Los Angeles definitely changed the game. For me, there’s just more time, space, and blue sky here to think and develop art. Not to mention the incredible friendships I’m building. And I say this as someone who hated Los Angeles my first 18 months here. I now realize that living in Los Angeles drives my outlook on life and gives me space to sharpen my awareness, all of which feeds directly into my ability to come up with ideas. Plus it doesn’t hurt that Los Angeles is the driving force in entertainment and digital culture. But I still make a point to get back to Brooklyn on a regular basis to see friends and family and lose myself in the city.

Image courtesy of Brooklyn Cartoons 

DSTLD: In addition to Brooklyn Cartoons, you run a design studio here in Los Angeles with your wife. How do you choose your projects and what are you currently working on? 

ET: I met my wife Clementina while we were at graduate school studying architecture. After school we got married, worked for a year in New York City and then moved out here about three years ago to start up a design practice together. We call ourselves ASTVDIO and right now we’re focusing primarily on residential, interiors and small commercial projects. We were fortunate to land our first project, a gut remodel and addition in Pasadena for a private client after a couple of months being here (that whole “LA is a place where your dreams come true” manifestation is more than just a cliché here). Our work is spread throughout Los Angeles, but a lot is concentrated in the West Side, which is where we’re based. At the moment, everything is coming through word of mouth. Some current projects we’re excited about is an interior design and renovation for a private client in Brentwood, a residential gut remodel and addition for a developer in Del Ray, and a takeaway pasta place in the Latin Quarter in Paris. We love how architecture and design is appreciated in Los Angeles’ culture, how experimental everything is here, and how much great design is present at all scales, mediums and styles. We’re really excited to be working here and feel we have a lot to contribute to the modernization and development of Los Angeles.

Images courtesy of Brooklyn Cartoons 

DSTLD: What’s next for expanding Brooklyn Cartoons’ audience beyond Instagram?

ET: My first book You Look Better Online was published by Abrams on October 10th. It’s a combination of greatest hits from the Instagram account and never-before-seen material. After years of creating content just for Instagram, it’s super rewarding to have a tangible artifact out in the world. And I recently started production on my second book project. I can’t get into too much detail, but it’s a collaboration with Overheard LA and will be coming out Fall 2018. Beyond these books, my team and I are actively laying the foundation to develop the property into an animated series. 

Image courtesy of Brooklyn Cartoons

You Look Better Online is available now.

For more of Emmet’s work, visit his site. 

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Images by Carlos Moscat

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Behind DSTLD: Functionality

A sketch of our Men's Skinny Slim Raw Denim

A few weeks ago, we took a trip to the iconic Rose Bowl Vintage Flea Market with DSTLD's Design Director Paul Roughley. On the second Sunday of every month, thousands of denim enthusiasts from all over the world descend on Pasadena in the hopes of finding the perfect vintage jean. We asked Paul to walk us through some of the well-known vendors while discussing his background growing up in England, and why he’s always been interested in designing functional clothing that lasts over trendy fashions that fade.

Shop our Men's and Women's Premium Denim Collections Now.

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DSTLD’s Essential Mix: September 2017

And we're back with another mix. This September, we're listening to music by Bonobo, The Weeknd, Beck, YACHT, Moby and more. Plus, check out our co-founder and co-CEO Corey Epstein's Soundcloud mix from this month's Burning Man Festival.

Open playlist in Spotify or Soundcloud.

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Ten Tips for Minimalist Interior Design

Image courtesy of Design Milk

DSTLD is comprised of style-minded free thinkers who are endlessly engaged and curious members of the creative class. We bring a mix of experience, opinions and stories to the table while at the same time sharing a similar “less is more” attitude. The minimalism and ease we enjoy in our wardrobe, we strive to impart throughout the rest of our lives too.

But how exactly do you achieve a minimalist aesthetic in your home? We figured we’d ask an expert. Enter Beatrice Fischel-Bock, the co-founder and CEO of Hutch. After realizing that interior design was an untapped resource in the tech space, Fischel-Bock launched Hutch as an m-commerce and interior design media company. It allows users to build a virtual rendering of the space they’re looking to decorate by using on-demand filters and proprietary photo technology. Fischel-Bock and her team of talented designers curate the products featured for each filter, all of which are shoppable directly through the app. If that’s not convenience, we’re not really sure what is.

Images courtesy of Hutch

Here, Fischel-Bock shares her top 10 tips for designing your interiors with a minimalist mindset.

1. Choose a neutral color palette. Too many colors can make a room feel extremely cluttered. This doesn't mean that you have to stick to just beige or white. There are a lot of great options such as a muted grey or light cappuccino sofa.

2. Pick timeless pieces. A comfy brown leather chair or a vintage wooden coffee table is a great anchor for a sparse space.

Image courtesy of Architectural Digest

3. The trick to minimalism is the ability to edit which is actually one of the trickiest parts of decorating. If you're redecorating an already lived in space try to take everything off the shelves and only put back the necessities. Leaving space between objects will make the area feel a lot larger.

Image courtesy of Architectural Digest

4. Use texture. A crystal chandelier or a beautifully carved headboard adds a lot of depth to a neutral space.

Image courtesy of Architectural Digest

5. Clean lines. Mid-century modern furniture is my go-to when I am trying to keep it simple. Try to find pieces with classic edges such as an Eames or Flag Halyard chair.

Image courtesy of Instagram

6. Lighting is key. Brighten up the room with sconces, candlesticks and very thin linen window treatments. The more light the better.

7. Warm up the place with cozy textiles. A comfy mohair blanket or a sheep skin rug adds an additional layer of texture to a bare space. This is especially key for homes in cooler climates.

Image courtesy of Architectural Digest

8. Slatted walls. Once again, I am all about texture! Scandinavian designers use slatted walls quite a bit. They are incredibly sleek and give off a rustic vibe. You almost feel as if you're walking into a luxurious cabin.

Image courtesy of My Domaine

9. Monochrome artwork. Start collecting simple black and white photographs and decor pieces such as dark metal statues. The key is to build over time and don't follow the traditional rules of hanging art. Placing a large piece on the floor next to a couch adds another dimension to the room.

10. Bring the room to life with a cactus or a fiddle leaf fig. No matter which style you're gunning for - you can never go wrong with a great tree.

Image courtesy of Pinterest

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Premium Denim Dictionary: Your A-Z Guide

Jeans are just jeans, right? Well actually... as is true in most cases, you quite literally get what you pay for. Premium denim carries with it much more than just a higher price tag. But what, exactly, is the difference between high-end denim and your average fast-fashion pair of jeans? The answers, like premium denim itself, might seem complex, but are definitely worth familiarizing yourself with. Here, an A-Z guide of some of the most essential denim terms to keep in mind next time you find yourself in an intense chat about ‘whiskering.’ Spoiler alert: it has nothing to do with cats.

3x1

This measurement refers to a kind of weave where three threads cross every one (hence, 3x1 weave). Think of it as a more thoughtfully made, heavier weight denim.

Atari or Whiskering

Raw denim, after a while, naturally fades in certain places. Prominent fades and creases around your upper thighs are known as atari or whiskering. This effect can also be added during the production of a jean, like our Men’s Light Wash denim and Women’s Dark Vintage jeans. We invest in 3-D whiskering in order to deliver a more authentic character to our denim. 

Bartack

Bartack is a denim sewing method that reinforces stress points on jeans (typically around pockets and near zippers) to uphold durability.

Broken Twill

You might need to squint to see it, but not all twill lines are created equal. Compared to left hand twill and right hand twill, a broken twill is a zig zag formation created when a diagonal weave is reversed to for a more random-looking design. 

Bull Denim

Just like the animal that inspired its name, bull denim is downright tough. Thanks to its 3x1 twill construction, this uniquely strong fabric manages to be both ultra-durable and incredibly soft to the touch. 

Cast

This refers to the different shade a jean is dyed with. Different methods result in different casts: yellow, black, brown, red or green. Typically you won’t see what cast denim is if it’s pre-washed, as the effect is intended to get more apparent as it’s washed and worn over time.

Chain Stitch

This is a sewing technique (and an ancient one, at that), that’s known for its strength and aesthetic appeal. It’s most often found at the hem of your jeans and creates a beautiful roping effect (uneven, rippled fade) as you wear your jeans in. You only find this on the real deal denim.

Chambray

Ideal for more lightweight items like oversized button-downs and breezy summer dresses, chambray is a plain fabric weave woven with a colored yarn in the warm and a white yard in the weft.

Crocking

Crocking refers to heavily dyed fabric (like raw denim) that fades and creases over time as its dye is rubbed off. To prevent crocking on our raw denim collection, we recommend using a cold water vinegar soak to help seal the indigo dye prior to wear.

Crosshatch

Crosshatch describes fabric that has the appearance of a cross effect at the front with diagonal lines on the reverse. This results in a subtly textured denim. 

Crotch Blowout

If you fail to strike that delicate balance between 'breaking in’ your new raw denim and totally forgetting about it, your jeans will probably start ripping in the crotch area. Consider it premium denim’s version of giving you the finger.

Distressed Jeans

This popular term refers to purposely blemished or faded denim that has a “pre-worn” appearance. Our women’s destructed mom jeans are the perfect example of meticulous distressing. 

Elasticity and Stretch Jeans

Elasticity in the world of denim refers to how much “give” a pair of jeans has. Stretch jeans, for example, contain some amount of elastin (i.e. spandex), which gives them a tight, but bendable fit. We offer stretch denim for both men and women. 

Enzyme Wash

Often used as a more eco-friendly alternative to traditional stone washing, enzyme washing uses cellulase enzymes to loosen indigo dye and give denim a more worn, aged look. Two of our best selling men’s skinny jeans - jet black and faded black - utilize an enzyme wash.

Filling/Weft Yarn

This refers to a more lightweight yarn which is woven in a left-right direction, and is often a more natural, un-dyed color. 

Finishing

Denim finishing refers to the last techniques or processed performed on jeans (setting a fray, adding embellishments, etc.) before they achieve their desired look.

Garment/Piece Dyed

This is a type of dye process used when crafting a pair of jeans where the garment is dyed at the very end of the process, after the weaving of the yarn, often resulting in rich, saturated color. 

Greencast

Greencast denim refers to the process of dying jeans with a green dye before being dyed with indigo. This effect becomes more apparent as the jeans are worn over time.

Handweaving

This is a weaving technique where the grain runs from the top-right hand-corner of fabric toward the bottom-left corner hand-corner. 

Honeycombs

Sorry 90′s kid - not the cereal. Like whiskering, this is a kind of naturally-occurring fade that happens on raw jeans. Honeycombs refer to the zig-zag pattern that forms behind the knees.

Indigo Dip Dye

Indigo dip dye refers to the process of raw denim fabric being treated (aka dipped) multiple times in natural indigo. This technique is what gives jeans (like our 24-Dip Indigo) rich, saturated color.

Laser Sanding

This finishing process is used to soften denim, resulting in a worn look. Depending on the length of the sanding process, the final effect can range from subtle to extreme. 

Loose Weave Denim

Loose weave denim refers to a looser, less tense material used to make breathable, more lightweight jeans. 

Microsanding

This is a fabric treatment process where denim is wrapped in either abrasive paper or a chemically coated surface to cause intentional abrasion to the fabric for a finishing effect.

Mercerization

Mercerization is a process that helps deliver that deep indigo hue and slow building fade, and a process we use for our men’s raw denim collection. Mercerized fibers can absorb more water, and therefore more dye, to give denim a long-lasting luster and better stamina in the wash. Mercerization also creates stronger, smoother fibers that are more resistant to bacteria. 

Natural Indigo Dye

This organic compound is famous for its rich blue color, and has come to be widely associated with denim.

Overdye

A dying technique commonly used on indigo or black jeans which achieves an ultra-saturated, dark color. The overdye technique can also be used on other garments to get a rich color, like our men’s plaid button down shirt. 

Pigment Dye

Pigment dye refers to a style of dying where color is only coated on the top of denim, not absorbed into the fabric. 

Powerstretch

Equal parts fashionable and functional, this kind of denim lets you move naturally while still hugging curves. Our women’s high waisted black powerstretch skinny jeans are incredibly form-fitting and flattering, hence why these are our top selling women’s denim.  

Raw Denim

Raw denim - consider this the OG. Totally unwashed and untreated denim is special because it hasn’t been pre-shrunk. This kind of jean requires a little extra lovin’... but the results are totally worth it. 

Ring Dying

Often used on jeans that are intended to fade naturally over time, ring dying refers to a process that impacts only the outside layer of fiber, and leaves the core white. 

Rope Dying 

Considered a premium dying method, this term refers to the process of yarn being twisted into a rope before it undergoes a sequence of indigo dipping and oxidization. 

Ring Spun Denim

Ring-spun yarn results in unique, irregular surface textures in fabric, giving jeans a more vintage look.

Rinse Wash 

This term refers to dark denim that has been processed only with a quick rinse resulting in soft, saturated jeans that are ultra-flattering, 

Rise

As in, high-rise, low-rise or mid-rise. This term refers to where jeans sit on the hip/waist. The average rise on our men’s denim hovers around 10.5 inches, while we offer multiple options for high waisted and mid-rise for women. 

Rivets

Rivets are the little metal, button-resembling placed on areas of jeans that are most likely to be pulled apart by strain or movement. Rivets keep these vulnerable spots secure, helping your jeans last longer.

Sanforization

This is a term the cool kids use to say ‘pre-shrunk.’ The process of shrinking denim is pretty straight forward: the material is repeatedly steamed and stretched before being made into an actual garment. This technique ensures that your new jeans won’t become doll-sized during their first wash.

Selvedge Denim

Meaning “self edge,” this common high-end denim term refers to narrow strips of fabric woven on old school shuttle looms.

Shrink To Fit Method

This refers to raw denim that has not been shrunk during the production process, meaning it can be shrunk after purchase. Many denim fans use this method to achieve the “perfect” fit. If you’re up for the challenge, fill a bathtub with hot water to safely bathe in, and soak in it wearing your raw denim for at least 15 minutes. During this time, your jeans will start to shrink and shape to your body. Hang dry then iron. 

Slub

Slub relates to yarn that has been knotted, twisted or combined with various lengths to create intentional irregularities that result in distinctive fabric thickness or softness.

Stack

Term used to describe a longer jean (ideally skinny) bunching at the ankle.

Stonewashing

This textile process helps soften stiff denim while providing a soft, pre-worn effect.

Timber Stitch

A denim stitch resulting in a clean, streamlined look.

Twill or Weave

Twill refers to a textile weave that produces a subtle ribbed pattern depending on its specifics. 

Wabi Sabi

This term refers to the naturally-occuring imperfections that all denim eventually experiences (pulled thread, loose stitching, etc.). 

Warp

Warp refers to denim fabric that has been woven lengthwise, creating a distinctive ribbing.

Weft

Unlike indigo-dyed warp thread, weft thread is left whilte, resulting in more dynamically-colored denim. 

Weight 

Referring to how much a yard of fabric weighs, weight count in denim ranges from lightweight to mid-weight to heavyweight, each resulting in differing levels of softness and durability. General rule of thumb - the higher the weight, the stiffer the denim will feel. 

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DSTLD’s Essential Mix: August 2017

It's Thursday, which means Friday's almost here. Lucky for you, our August playlist just dropped to help get you through the final stretch of the week. Featuring music by Portugal the Man, Poolside, tUne-yArDs, and more, it's everything we're listening to right now at DSTLD.

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DSTLD’s Jean History 101

DSTLD’s 24 Dip Indigo Timber Raw Denim Jeans 

Denim: A Transatlantic Journey

Today, jeans are a global symbol - garments with equal appeal across class lines, and across borders. From the legs of ranchers to rock stars and vintage collectors to designer devotees, no other piece of clothing is as ubiquitous or as universally cool as a good pair of jeans. But the journey of fabric that’s come to represent American spirit and innovation actually started centuries ago in its birthplaces of Nîmes, France (the word “denim” is thought to have evolved from “de Nîmes”), and Genoa, Italy. Only around the turn of the 20th century did jeans catch on in the United States - in large part due to a scrappy dry goods entrepreneur from the Old World, and an imaginative tailor who’d change fashion forever.

Ripped Jeans, Bellbottoms, and Acid Wash: Denim Trends Through The 1900′s

Ripped jeans are a celebrity style staple now, but Levi Strauss’ first pants were designed to take a beating. Around the same time that the Bavarian-born textile merchant was experimenting with more durable fabrics for hard-working California gold miners, Nevada tailor Jacob Davis was inventing the rivet - a tiny piece of metal that reinforced pants pockets at the corners, and that would earn the two men their place in history. Strauss and Davis patented the original Levi’s 501 design in 1873, and modern men’s jeans, with their blue collar street cred, were born.

Jacob W. Davis and Levi Strauss’ United States patent 

It didn’t take long for blue jeans to transcend their humble beginnings; John Wayne, with his easy masculinity and screen presence, was the first star to make men’s jeans a coveted fashion item. While he wouldn’t be the last, in 1939 World War II broke out - and with it came another international turn in the saga of denim.

John Wayne in Stagecoach

The six years to follow were full of tragedy, but also opportunity, as American women began entering the workforce en masse. While US troops overseas first exposed Japanese nationals to blue jeans, American women making weapons and other supplies adopted the same tough-as-nails clothing as their male counterparts. Women’s jeans soared in popularity - a symbol of women’s labor and resilience during the war - on the front of The Saturday Evening Post.

Norman Rockwell’s Rosie The Riveter, 1943

In the 1950′s, big screen bad boys like James Dean and Marlon Brando turned denim from the hero’s uniform to that of the anti-hero; Rebel Without a Cause was even shot in color to showcase Dean’s custom dip-dyed Lee 101′s and iconic red moto jacket. Japanese entrepreneurs who’d learned of jeans during the war saw a major opportunity in rebel culture, flocking to import them for resale and design inspiration - and brands like Big John, with its North Carolina bought fabric and obsessive attention to authentic “American” detail, marked the beginning of Kojima and the Okayama Prefecture’s rise to worldwide denim domination.

James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause

Kojima in Okayama Perfecture 

Not far behind rebel culture came hippie culture, with its anti-capitalist ideals and well-worn aesthetics. This shift was a boon to the secondhand denim market, as rock stars and everyday people began embracing ripped jeans, patchwork details, and other features unique to pre-owned pieces; today, Levi’s “big E” jeans often sell for thousands of dollars on the vintage market. The hippie look lasted into the 1970′s, before the resurgence of a more polished, disco-ready style helmed by designers like Gloria Vanderbilt and Sergio Valenti, Calvin Klein and Jordache’s high waisted jeans in the 1980′s, and the 1990′s hip-hop driven trend mastered by Tommy Hilfiger and Marithé & François Girbaud.

The Ramones in ripped denim 

Brooke Shields in Calvin Klein’s 1980 ad

Black Jeans, Blue Skies: Bringing Denim Back to the American West

From skinny-punk inspired black jeans to perfectly bleached blue joggers, much of modern denim design is owed to “Godfather of Denim” Adriano Goldschmied. Like Strauss’ fabric and Davis’ rivets a century earlier, all the Italian expat needed was the right combination - in his case, stone-washing and stretch fabric - to revolutionize the apparel industry as a whole. And Goldschmied didn’t stop at improving the comfort and fit of jeans; his whiskering, honeycombing, hand-sanding and other methods of embellishment influenced a generation of designers seeking similarly distressed looks. His 20-year presence in Los Angeles also ushered in a new way of American denim manufacturing; in an era when most companies use overseas factories and cheap materials to keep up with the demands of fast fashion, Goldschmied has inspired young brands like DSTLD to make our jeans with love and care on US soil.

The Godfather of Denim, Adriano Goldschmied

Denim may have started across the Atlantic Ocean, but today its legacy spans across the Pacific, with competition in the premium market coming largely from Japan. DSTLD borrows from the best of Eastern and Western denim making conventions, using ring-spun and selvedge denim from traditional shuttle looms to make jeans worthy of putting on in the morning - and of their incredible, cross-continental history. 

Words by Nora Whelan

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The Creative Class: RAC

RAC wears DSTLD's Crew Neck Tee in Black and Denim Jacket in Jet Black

Tall with a boyish look and bright blue eyes, André Allen Anjos is exactly what you might expect when meeting a DJ and producer responsible for some of the best nuanced remixes of indie songs. He’s charmingly unassuming and authentic; a self-proclaimed introvert whose passion for his craft is clearly palpable. Originally from Portugal, Anjos moved to Illinois for college and soon after founded RAC, otherwise known as Remix Artist Collective. He began offering up his services - cold call style - to various independent artists and bands. His first big break? A remix of The Shins’ “Sleeping Lessons” off their 2007 album Australia. After a decade of hard work, Anjos won his first Grammy for Best Remixed Recording, becoming the first Portuguese artist to solidify a spot in music history.

RAC wears DSTLD's Crew Neck Tee in Black, Denim Jacket in Jet Black and Skinny Jeans in Stretch Jet Black

Now, remixes are taking a backseat to the release of his second solo album Ego and accompanying US tour in the fall. A meaningful personal project, the album is written and produced entirely by Anjos with a little help from collaborators like Weezer’s Rivers Cuomo and musician St. Lucia, to name just a few. DSTLD had the chance to sit down with Anjos in LA to discuss his creative path, new album and why infusing emotion into music is a crucial element of making it great.

Listen to Ego.

For more of RAC’s work, click here.

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Photos by DSTLD 's co-founder Corey Epstein.

Video by Christel Chaudet.

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Behind DSTLD: The Staple

What’s in a staple? More specifically, what's in a staple wardrobe? For some, it means embracing and acquiring of the moment trends, while for others it means only having the core essentials. A closet staple's definition is often grounded in subjectivity, taking on different meanings for different people for various reasons.

Here, our Design Director Paul Roughley shares what a staple means to us at DSTLD.

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DSTLD’s Essential Mix: July 4th Weekend

Here's what we're listening to from sun up to sun down over the holiday weekend.

Featuring Armin Van Buuran, Calvin Harris, Odesza, Duke Dumont, Phoenix and much more.

Open playlist in Spotify.

Have a song suggestion?

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The Creative Class: Gregory Siff

Meet Gregory Siff, Angeleno-by-way-of-Brooklyn.

This contemporary artist captures the raw aesthetic of America’s Gotham and the unstructured prismatic scene of alchemical Angeles in a signature blend of symbolic imagery and minimalist text that speaks incomparably to the living duality of modern pop culture.

DSTLD: Tell us a little bit about yourself – how did you get to where you are today?

Gregory Siff: I got to where I am today by doing what I love every day. The more time I did the happier I got, the more cool people I met along the way and the better the paintings began to look. Create everyday. I am an artist, a feeler, a force in the world that goes through something every day and lives to tell about it in paint.

Gregory in his studio (wearing custom bomber jacket and black skinny jeans)

Siff: In high school I was in love with music and theater and opera and guitar and movies and dressing up like Ninja Turtles… superheros. I was always the youngest in the class and I never really got into the whole boyfriend-girlfriend type of thing. I just really wanted to understand about movies, and I was into acting, and I sang in the New York City Opera, and I did commercials, and I really loved the idea of expressing myself through these kinds of means –– even saxophone and bands.

… and, of course, I played baseball and basketball –– but was really drawn to life in the arts.

Gregory outside his studio in DTLA (wearing custom bomber jacket)

I went off to study Communications and Journalism at NYU, while doing acting and music still. I was making some money doing commercials back then, and I wanted to get a degree in something else. Then there was a humanities class where the teacher gave me a bunch of books that I probably wouldn’t have discovered had I not gone to college. One was a book of Jean-Michel Basquiat’s artwork and I asked myself: ‘Why do I need to go to school when I felt that I loved these guys?’ … like reading Vincent Van Gogh’s, and other artist’s lives, that felt like a Shakespearean play. These were people that lived with their heart.”

So, I wasn’t really into art until I left N.Y. with my family and moved out to L.A. to pursue a little more of the acting world and Hollywood. And, out there when things weren’t 100% anymore –– you’re without your family, your dream isn’t going the way you thought it would, and you start to find this kind of inner turmoil, a kind of struggle inside of you.

Gregory outside his studio in DTLA (wearing custom leather bomber jacket and black skinny jeans)

Siff:  We did a scene for our acting class where I was Jackson Pollock, and I made all of these Pollock-style paintings ahead of time that were in the scene. There was a big fight, between me as Pollock and the actress playing Lee Krasner’s wife, and at the end took the paintings off the wall –– because I made them… these were works that I made. And when I did the scene the acting coach was like, ‘Okay, that’s it; we’re done: you did it in one cut.’ Usually, you take time, and you go back and put it back up again; but it was because I actually, really, cared about the things that I made –– with my hands and my heart –– and I put them on the wall, and I didn’t want anyone to hurt them, and I wanted to defend them.

Gregory outside his studio in DTLA

I felt like there was a bigger amount of reverence and respect for what I was making, instead of who I was trying to be.

And then I met lots of cool artists that do this for a living –– that paint what they want, they print their own books, like Louis Cannizzaro. [He] is this great artist who, I love his work –– and it reminds me of all of my favorite artists. I got to talk to him, and he said: ‘Dream up your biggest and craziest idea and do it.’ And I just went in to The Standard Hotel, back in about 2005, and said: ‘This is my art, and I want to do a show, and I’ll donate it all to charity.’ He gave me the space, I sold out the show, and I was like, ‘Wow!’”

Gregory Siff x DSTLD Womens Leather Jacket

So, the art is there to do things to other people; to do good things for them, and you get to live this kind of life. I mean, it wasn’t regular 9-5 stuff –– these were paintings that I was thinking about at like, 3 and 4 o’clock in the morning. This was like my early-twenties, out in L.A. I guess things didn’t go right, and I moved back home to New York… and it was a low time.

My dad lived until he was 85, but when he passed away, another type of me came around that I had been trying to find that was like another person. I was another person after my dad passed, and I just didn’t want to wait around anymore for this acting dream, or I didn’t want to wait around for this idea of: “You got to be a lawyer,” or a doctor, or whatever. And things weren’t going right.

Gregory in studio working on Art Basel collection

That’s a funny thing: when things aren’t going right, you actually get shook to do something about it –– and that is where some of the most beautiful paintings came out of, the most important decisions come out of.

And I came back out to L.A., and I started putting work on the street, and I was just always thinking about art. Then, I got recognized by a gallery that told me they wanted to put my work in there, and then you just start doing it every day.

The minute that I chose to do it every day, I would figure out: “Okay, now the rent is covered; what else do you want to do?” So then, every month, it would grow longer. Now, if I stopped, and waited around, and read articles on Google, and looked at what other people were doing… I mean, there was no Instagram at the time to constantly see what people are doing to the left of you—I would have gotten 

Gregory outside his studio in DTLA

My dad always said: ‘When you are running a race, if you look to your side: you’re gonna lose; you just look forward –– just look at what you are doing: keep going.’ So, I kept doing that and doing that and doing that.

And it’s tough –– we’re in Hollywood, and we are in a beauty-conscious type of place. It’s a competition nowadays, you know –– with the “likes” and “the people” –– but you have got to block all that out.

You got to look at the piece: what it means to you, and why you are making it.

So, I just kept doing it and met some of my best friends. You know, it is tough to make friends as you get later in life; but a lot of my best friends are artists, and I get to be honest in them. It’s tough… while it’s beautiful, because everyone is out here on the hustle –– and that’s what you want to be: you want to be around people that are going for it.

But yeah, you got to keep your guard up because with that kind of attitude: you can have someone be your best friend, and then one day they are gone. I’m a very fun guy, and I love everybody; I have a lot of love. And I have a lot of friends, a lot of great people in my life, and there is not enough time sometimes to do all of that –– which I’m trying to balance out;

Gregory working on DSTLD x Gregory Siff Art Basel Collection

I’m trying to be the best I can be, but I can only be the best to so many people; otherwise, I’m useless. I got to create work and that’s where you have to be. If you’re not making art, you’re not an artist.

You can’t just make ten paintings and wait for those to be sold: you have to consistently keep making stuff –– not for anything more, but because it feels good to make it, and you want to do something with it, and share it. My thing is create something every day and share it; and eventually after 2010, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16!”

Sometimes, I look at my bio and look at the things that I have done… you know, I couldn’t have planned any of this; and it’s really like: when you put the effort in, even the mistakes lead to the right things. And that’s with every one of my paintings. 

Gregory outside his studio in DTLA (wearing custom leather bomber jacket and black skinny jeans)

The best paintings that I do have ten paintings behind it, because they add gravitas to the artist and the artwork.

DSTLD: Why did you decide to collaborate with DSTLD?

Siff: “The thing about art, that also works with fashion is: the more I paint, and the more I think about painting, and the more I’m around it –– the more I can do whatever I want, the more the artist can do whatever they want.

To become something called, “There are no mistakes:” where even when you make mistakes, they become something beautiful, and something that you couldn’t even plan. 

Gregory Siff x DSTLD Mens and Womens Leather Jackets

What I love about DSTLD is there are no mistakes; and in art, keeping it simple, and simplicity done right, is one of the hardest things.

A ton of people could look at a simplistic piece of art, and they say: “I could do that;” and then, when they try it, it doesn’t work –– you can’t do it –– only one person can do it that way.

The art of being simple is a hard thing, and what DSTLD does right, is strip down to the marrow of what is essential, and what is beautiful to wear: the classic jeans and a t-shirt, a leather jacket –– and, by the way, when you get a leather jacket: that’s supposed to be the jacket that you keep for the rest of your life, it’s not like you are going to need to get another one.

These are constants that don’t go out of style, and that is why gestural action painting like Jackson Pollock doesn’t go out of style. When you walk into a museum, and see that beast of a painting, it still holds weight as a modern day painting that comes from your heart and comes from something that is done right.

Gregory outside his studio in DTLA

A great artist is someone who can create anything with the materials around them. You don’t need some magic pen or magic brush –– if you only have toothpicks and… motor oil, a good artist can create a strong work of art out of those things, and that is why there no bells and whistles when it comes to DSTLD; the work, in itself, is the perfect blank canvas for an artist and a person.

So, when you want to think about your day, you’re not branded with anything but the way that it fits, the way that it feels, and the way that it makes you feel; so, the logo is your face, the way that that feels.

Given these canvases: the leather jacket, the bomber jackets, the t-shirts… the things that are used every day. So, if I’m going to paint every day, you wear the jeans, you wear the t-shirt, you wear the jacket that stay with you your entire life –– that is what a great work of art is.

Gregory Siff x DSTLD Mens and Womens Leather Jackets

Nothing in this life lasts forever, but art is immortal.

This type of collaboration is not one with a glittery logo. The whole, the piece in itself –– my paint enhances your fabric, the same as your fabric enhances my paint –– that is why it is a special collaboration.

I have works on canvas that go for thousands of dollars, and it’s a chance for people who might not be able to –– or are traveling, and might not want to hang a painting on the wall –– they might want to get this jacket, and wear it a bunch, and then eventually hang it on the wall; or they might want to stretch the t-shirt onto a canvas, and hang it on the wall because it is a piece of art… or they might want to paint in these clothes, and work in these clothes, and feel the inspiration that both of the artists –– and I call DSTLD an artist too: because you are building your art, and I’ve seen how you’ve evolved with your art. While you don’t completely change it, but you get there, and that is why this is a good collaboration; and we are going to do 20 leather jackets, because that is enough to make the work great.

Gregory Siff x DSTLD Mens and Womens Leather Jackets

We’re not trying to oversaturate –– this is not something we are trying to make a million dollars at –– we’re trying to make a great work of art. My fam and following, my friends who support and love my art, without a doubt, are in the same crew as people who share love for the bare, simplistic clothes. Hey, the more successful I am, the less I wear a suit; if I don’t have paint on my hands, and I’m not comfortable, then I am not doing what I am doing. Of course, there is a time and place for that, but most of the time, I’m throwing on a bomber and going to my meetings. The t-shirts you gave me two years ago still have paint on them, and it doesn’t even matter –– they get better with time and experience.

Gregory working on DSTLD x Gregory Siff Art Basel Collection

As an artist, you want to make quality paintings: it’s not quantity –– you got to make solid work. If I could be constant, and have my clothing represent how I paint –– and a lot of my palette has been in the black and whites‚ and we are going to go off the page and do some color and different things, which is cool that I get a chance to do it on your clothes –– but, I think that where it works is that: it is stuff that I wear, and it’s stuff that my friends that love my work would want to wear. At the end of the day, when I make a painting, it has got to be something that I would want to hang on my wall.

If it isn’t that good, and I don’t really care about it, then I didn’t make a good painting, and it is just filling the ‘job,’ or the ‘role’ of the artist.

Gregory Siff x DSTLD Womens Leather Jacket

When you are doing dope work: you care about it, and you are proud of it, and it hurts to give it away when it sells, because it’s like –– ‘Damn, that’s a good one.’ And I already feel that way about the jackets.”

Beyond the Brush: A rapid-fire riff, and the whole nine with Gregory Siff:

DSTLD: Who are your idols?

Siff: “As far as idols, I respect those who are authentic and made their path by sticking to it: Jean-Michel Basquiat, for taking his pain and turning it into beauty; my father, for showing me you never get old if you love what you do and dance like it’s New Year’s Eve everyday; my mom, for getting up everyday and making kids smile in school, and having a laugh every Friday with friends, and a drink after a long week. I just want to continue making real sh*t and having the life worth waking up for. Those who help those who really need it impress me. I try to live in that.

DSTLD: What is your favorite work that you have created?

Siff: “Right at this moment,

[I]t is a painting called ‘Prayer,’ which I created this year for my show Portrait of an American Ice Cream Man. It is an abstract collision of ink and pencil that makes me feel good. It’s ferocious.

“Prayer” Gregory Siff

I’m making a series of scarves out of it that will be unveiled in Miami, during Art Basel, this year.”

DSTLD: How has your work / creative process evolved over the years – is there any specific event that acted as a turning point for you?

Siff: I’ve been painting every day since 2010. It evolves quickly when the hours stack up. I like that what I do may seem like a simple form of painting, but what is embedded in it is meaning that lines each line.

Gregory Siff x DSTLD Womens Leather Jackets

DSTLD: When do you feel most creative / inspired / driven to create?

Siff: When I am angry with my day. When I love my night. When I go through something new. And when I smell the past. All of those ignite. Sex is a great jump off too.

DSTLD: Besides your work, what are other creative outlets for you?

Siff: At this current time, it’s all painting and making art.

DSTLD: Does technology play a role in your creativity?

Siff: Yes. It’s a megaphone with the work. More see it because the computer screen.

DSTLD: What is your favorite book?

Siff: Letters to a Young Poet by [Ranier Marie] Rilke.

DSTLD: What type of music do you work to? Favorite artist right now?

Siff: Miles Davis, Radiohead, Kanye. Francis and the Lights.

DSTLD: Who should we cover next?

Siff: Brittney Palmer. She’s hot on many levels.

Gregory in his studio (wearing custom bomber jacket and black skinny jeans)

Photos by Corey Epstein

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The Creative Class: Thrashbird

Wander through the streets of Los Angeles and you’ll probably spot a Clone - a hooded figure slumped over, texting on a phone - discreetly stenciled on the side of a building. You might see graffiti artfully placed on a luxury fashion brand’s billboard while driving, wondering if it’s been placed there intentionally.

Most likely it isn’t part of the brand’s ad campaign. It’s been put there by the subversive street artist Thrashbird. Raised in the Pacific Northwest, but born in Southern California, the city of Los Angeles has become the perfect backdrop for the irreverent artist’s work. Specifically placed in populated urban areas, Thrashbird’s imagery takes on tough political and social issues in a satirical and provocative fashion, often times eliciting an instant visceral reaction from his audience. DSTLD commissioned the artist for its first shoppable collaboration and our co-founder and co-CEO Corey Epstein sat down with Thrashbird to discuss his impressive rise to street art fame.

"I got into art very young. My mom was really supportive of my creative endeavors. I grew up in the Eighties, so I had Lincoln Logs and a lot of very analogue types of toys, blocks and Legos, things like that. I would come at her with these creations I would make. And apparently, she gets a kick out of it because I would always call them creations.

I would come up and say “look at my creations.”

I didn’t nurture the creative side as much as I embraced my athletic side growing up. I was very into sports, predominantly baseball when I was young, and skateboarding and snowboarding. Snowboarding became my main focus. Art took a back seat to everything for a long time but it was always there, and there was this side of me that was never really comfortable with the way things were in society. That was brewing underneath all of that. And I kind of figured that eventually I would become an activist, but I didn’t really understand how or really know what I wanted to say.

I moved out of LA to embrace the creative side. That was how I looked at it, and it was a choice between New York or LA and I chose LA because I’d been living in endless winter and I didn’t want to live in winter anymore. I needed a break. In hindsight, I think I would have chosen New York because I just love it there, and sometimes I feel like what I do as an artist fits better in New York. Just given the culture of LA - I’m not going to use the word fake - but it’s a little more, I guess, laid back than other places, so if you’re a protest artist or you do a lot of art that’s around politics or social commentary, if it’s not over the top funny or bang you over the head type of imagery then it gets lost out here a little bit. Not that New York is a more serious place, but I feel like what I do resonates out there a little more. Although I have an incredibly amazing fan base here that has grown along with me through the years and they’re really loyal and I lean on them for support. I’m very glad in the end that I actually was here. Also, you can get away with a lot more out here than you can in New York. New York’s a lot more difficult to do what I do. There’s bigger penalties and they pay more attention to it.

When I started becoming a street artist, I knew the direction I wanted to go was to comment on the things that were not okay with me.

You know, things that I didn’t agree with, that I felt were injustices or the misdirection of society. That’s kind of where I jumped off from versus going the route of an artist whose imagery is more about affirmation and making people feel good.

I took this route of misdirected anger and I had a lot of frustration about who I was as a human being and my sexuality and all of these different things I was trying to figure out. I didn’t know how to channel it, so when I started putting art on the streets it was very abrasive and it was incredibly polarizing. I feel like some of that work is some of the best work I’ve ever done, even though it’s very raw and it’s not refined at all. I’m glad that it came out in the way that it did, even if it was really abrasive. I think that sometimes when you hit people in the head with a hammer versus touching them with a feather, you get more of a gut reaction and that’s what I was going for.

I wanted people to know, to remember and think about it. If you hit them hard, they’re going to remember it. Over the years that’s evolved because I’ve embraced certain things about myself and through that, it’s changed what I do creatively and it’s changed the way I talk to the world and the way I want the world to talk to me.

It doesn’t always lead to a great open discussion with people if you’re hammering down your views at them versus starting to ask a lot of questions and say well okay, why is it that way or why do you believe this versus saying your wrong and you need to think the way I think because it’s the right way.

That’s never going to get anybody anywhere. Both parties become defensive and there’s no dialogue. So I think I’ve matured a lot as an artist and I don’t know if I would have matured if I hadn’t gone to street art.

I think social media helped because you can have dialogue with people directly whereas before it was comments on a blog. Someone would blog your piece, what you did in the street, and then you’d filter through the comments. With things like Instagram and Twitter you get to talk with people, and for me I grow as a human being from it and that’s the biggest thing - I feel like I’m becoming a better person in a lot of ways because of that dialogue. The other side I think it does lead to a lot of unwarranted criticism and negativity that I think a lot of people don’t understand how to cope with. I still feel like we’re at the very beginning of what social media and communication is going to represent culturally. I am grateful for it because it’s allowed me to have a bigger conversation through my art with people, which is really cool, and it’s directly influenced my art. A lot of what I do is commenting on what’s going on socially or culturally, or what’s trending. I guess you could say I like to take a satirical view on things that I find to be not in the best interest of us as the human race so I use that imagery directly on the street.

It’s interesting because it makes your work interactive where people can actually not only think about it, but they can physically interact with what you do and I think that helps them understand and engage more on a human level. I think it evidently leads to the embracement of each other and each other’s individual ideas and thoughts on life. Everybody’s morals I guess you could say so that’s been an interesting journey.

This is my first collaboration with a clothing company and I’ve been very particular about it. I have certain ethics and viewpoints on manufacturing and production and just generally on how business is done. I really liked where DSTLD was at with that so when the time came to talk about collaborating, I was really on board because I genuinely liked the direction that DSTLD is taking. I also want to always support independently owned businesses. I want to be a part of the journey of people who are doing it for themselves cause that’s what I’m doing.

I’ve embraced the DIY spirit, DSTLD’s embraced the DIY spirit and they’re innovative in the way they’re approaching it, and that was really appealing to me.

On top of that, their wardrobe is pretty much my daily wardrobe and I really like what they make. I was really excited when the opportunity presented itself because it’s my standard uniform. Black skinny jeans are a staple in my wardrobe and I love the fit, I love the way I can work in them really easily. They’re not restricting so I was just like, yeah, these guys are great I really like what they’re doing, I want to be a part of it.."

Thrashbird portraits captured by DSTLD’s co-founder and co-CEO Corey Epstein.

Shop the DSTLD x Thrashbird collection.

For more of Thrashbird's work, click here.

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SORT AND STYLE: THE DENIM JACKET

Timeless, durable, worn, weathered, clean, cool, signature in prints and patterns of adopted distress. The denim jacket is a modern staple in any cosmopolitan closet, and for those who haven’t dived into denim’s outerwear mainstay, a steady primer on the looming question: how to buy and style?

The total appeal of a denim jacket is its versatility and resilience. Pick the perfect first piece and it will be an above-the-waist staple.

First things first: fit.

The perfect denim jacket should fit like a shirt while structure and stock of denim lends levels of layering versatility well-beyond its limited title as just a “jacket.”

The right jacket should fit cozy in the shoulder –– snug, not suffocating, short-stocked, nor shoulder-padded. Word to the wise, default to a downsize: if you’re a large, go medium, etc. Denim carries weight by natural design, so you’re not losing any of the aesthetic if you move down a size. The tighter fit lends more to a formed silhouette, and the slightly-slimmer frame opens up possibilities for a wool overcoat for colder climates or even one-off unseasonably cool night.

A genuine fitting denim jacket should cut right at the hip –– too high, and you’re courting a crop-top, too low, and you’ve got an ill-fitting overcoat. Keep in mind denim’s natural wear-and-tear structure-shifting capacity, as well; a denim fit is never truly finalized, so think about fabric shrink and fade before you commit to buy.

Denim Jacket In Worn Charcoal

Color is key

Especially with denim, the tone is definitive when it comes to establishing your own bona fide style. Black, white, charcoal, stonewashed, dark indigo, traditional vintage fade… Use tint to compliment your wardrobe: both existing and idealized. Choose a color that accentuates and emphasizes the style you have, the style you want, and ideally the existing hybrid. You’ll know it’s the right shade when you can see it paired with quite possibly every piece in your apparel arsenal.

The denim color palette is all but panoramic in the modern fashion climate, so stick to the standards to make your statement: indigo, black / charcoal, white / cream. If “Indigo” sounds overly-specific: take fifteen seconds to consider the million shades of “denim.”

Signature jean blue is a go-to standard if you’re making a first denim jacket purchase. It bears the fabrics timeless natural color, and will reflect more organic wear patterns to develop with your own evolving sense of style.

The jet black chroma boasts a bold break from traditional indigo, and enhances the diesel feel of denim’s stock. Noir tones emphasize a muted strength, but fade well over time into the understated rogue appeal of a lighter charcoal.

White denim works well any time of year (climate withstanding), despite, and partially due-to, dated fashion norms. Los Angeles is known for its perpetual “72 and Sunny,” which lends an ideal year-round backdrop for cream and white denim. Getting just the necessary cut and color for lighter denim takes time, so test the sea legs with a few classic indigo pieces, and maybe a denim noir, before pressing the necessity of a white denim jacket.

Denim Jacket in Worn Charcoal

Style Guide

Once you’ve got the form and fade set, try a few custom modifications for style. Double-cuff the wrist, pop the collar for a bit of lift, rework the button standard. The denim jacket works just as well as a sartorial centerpiece as it does wardrobe wingman, so add accessories that play off of the jacket’s rugged appeal.

Soften the edge with a cashmere scarf or underlayer V-Neck sweater. Magnify the muted rebellion aesthetic with silver-rimmed aviators. Latch a designer chain on the leather wallet and give the beltline a mellow-metal feel, and more low-key build on the bold. True versatility knows no bounds.

How to Wear

Hers: Denim jackets made their way into women’s style culture on the sleek shoulders of the 60s British Mod scene. Slim-fit, clean lines, understated cool, definitive gender-neutrality. Think subtle severity and double-down pitch noir black denim. Time grants transformation, and women’s fashion is no stranger to change: just about any look is a viable avenue so long as the fit is deft. Focus on clean lines and structure (think rugged not ragged), work with the specific denim hue that works best for you, and from there the aesthetic possibilities are as open, or limited, as the scenes you frequent.

His: Resilient, seasoned, structured with room to move, the men’s denim jacket exudes considered independence. The piece is made to layer, and should be worn with a focus on the supporting wardrobe elements. However you layer a denim jacket, the fit should boast your figure –– whether a slender John Lennon, stocky Steve McQueen, or somewhere in-between. The perfect denim jacket should fit as well over a simple t-shirt as it does underneath a neat blazer –– when in doubt, downsize. Snug at the shoulder, cuts off just at the hip, definitive color to span the rest of your style arsenal, and the rest is up to the landscape.

How to Pair

Hers: Break from the standard and pair your dark-wash denim jacket with a simple silk cami dress. Make it a look with a light long-sleeve layer in between or coated denim beneath, minimalist stone statement pieces, a leather belt to bring it together, and mid-calf black gladiator sandals to finish. Add a cross-body bag for storage, style, and to give the jacket pockets a rescue from premature wear-and-tear. Boho Americana from a minimalist lens is signature  Los Angeles, a perfect style to make your own.

His: Bring denim to the contemporary boardroom and pair a jet black denim jacket with a smart blazer, try charcoal wool to enhance the contrast and null the assumed clash. Wear a white button down to maintain elemental simplicity within the layering. Tie or no-tie? Depends on how you sort the buttons. Don’t force extra fabric if you’re keeping the layers closed: you must breathe. Let the clothes speak, but cool comfort and a neat fit should be priority. Go with raw denim slim-fit slacks, and charcoal suede boots. Add a proper timepiece to make a statement with the wrist-wear, and you’ve got the makings of a corporate coup by way of the wardrobe.

Neutral Standard: A timeless no-fail signature pairing for a denim jacket, worthy of amateurs and aficionados alike, is a contemporary take on the Mod aesthetic. Dark-wash denim jacket, sailor stripe boxy tee, slim-fit denim jeans, and a simple loafer or Chelsea boot to finish. Add a scarf for a neat addition to the minimal slate.

With that, welcome to the weathered world of denim jackets: set, sorted, ready to sort-and-style that perfect first.

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PRIMER STYLE GUIDE: DENIM ON DENIM

When it comes to denim: anything and everything goes.  As everyone knows, denim goes with any and everything. That said, one of the most obvious –– and, at the same time, cautiously avoided –– denim pairings is the infamous denim on denim, “Canadian Tuxedo.” We know, imagery of early-2000s red carpets and MTV scenes evokes a reflexive recoil at anti-nostalgic remembrances of monochromatic style mishaps and monstrosities, but fashion has evolved and with it, the evolution of denim on denim style. A few style guide notes for consideration before your first (or next) take on the Canadian Tux.

Double on Denim Style Guide

Style & Fit

Quality, proportion, and coloration are fundamental to styling denim, and double- denim is no different. Denim’s legacy resides in its sheer durability, utility, and style. To invoke a truly authentic   denim-conscious style, look no further than the inherent quality of the fabric. Make sure you wear jeans that are crafted to withstand the everyday wear-and-tear that gives your denim it’s signature distress and fade over time.

When styling denim on denim, each piece should be of the utmost quality, so be open to pairing new and old pieces. Contrast is key, so embrace your wardrobe’s full lineage and bridge the worlds of vintage and contemporary with certainty.

First and last rule of denim: fit is fit

Fit can’t be underestimated anytime you’re talking about denim. It’s the first thing to focus on, and when you’re pairing two pieces of denim together you want to make sure they’re both appropriately proportioned. Skinny jeans should pair with a slim fitted shirt. Likewise, you wouldn’t want to wear a cropped denim jacket with a low-rise jean. The proportions need to be in tandem.

When most people think of the “Canadian Tuxedo,” the instant knee-jerk reaction stems from visualizing a tacky pairing overstating denim’s naturally understated appeal by pushing too far into a hyper-mayonnaise aesthetic. The solution to break from the stereotypical faux-pas is to simply embrace denim’s endless color palette. Pick and pair from the wide reaches of fits, washes, and tones to collect a style unique in its definition within inherent similarity.

Balance & Juxtaposition

Double-denim comes with the looming possibility of aesthetic monotony, the key to a look that consolidates without confining to the overall balance by way of contrast. Denim’s appeal is rooted in its transcendental capacity to work across the living spectrum of style, so the framework is well-established for denim on denim. The tension is finding a way to maintain the standard without diverging too far into a chaotic mess when balancing color and proportion:  define, don’t over-differentiate, and complement don’t carbon-copy. When in doubt, keep it all in sartorial stride.

How to Wear

Denim Jacket

Hers

Focus on slim and form-fitting with an eye on contrast and balance. Enhance your silhouette, highlighting tone and figure. Break beyond the stereotypical Canadian Tux monotone by defining your specific look with attention to form-over-fabric –– limited bulk lends to bolder looks. Add character to the minimalist denim palette with strong or subtle accessories, be open to experimenting with statement pieces without exaggerating with the full slate. Dress up to denim on denim to bring undertoned regal to traditional rugged rebellion, or dress down to bring simple style to rogue fashion.

Denim Jacket

His

Silhouette is still central while stock and structure are pillar-and-post for styling denim essentials with a focus on squared masculine frames –– times two when pairing the fabric with itself. Contrast and juxtaposition for balance: whether that translates to slim-fit jeans and a heavier denim jacket, a pair of raw denim boot-cuts and a distressed Oxford, or dark-wash jeans with a stone-wash jacket. Denim on denim should project minimalist with life, a stylized creative standard, tailor-made to reflect effortless precision.

Uni

Think cool, considered, collected: understated and understood, with exhibited self-awareness over self-importance. Let the style speak to the silhouette, wear denim pieces that are structured to afford room to breathe and space to move –– let the fit sit with you and not suffocate. Effortless cognizance is always essential.

How to Pair

Denim Jacket

Hers

Whether you’re trying out a seamless first-look, or looking for a denim on denim mainstay pairing to last, keep it simple with subtle notes to versatility and detail. Pair coated skinny-leg jeans with a vintage indigo denim blouse to contrast denim textures and tones. Add a black blazer to leverage utility with a transitional mid-tempo style, versatile enough to go low-key casual or business contemporary. Finish the look with a pair of suede black loafer flats (leather depending on the weather), and accessorize with a statement piece or simple cross-body bag for a defined take on denim-denim.

Denim Jacket

His

No-fail noir; partner a pair of black skinny-slim leg denim jeans with a crew neck tee, and a charcoal denim jacket to top-off a minimalist Angeleno collarless take on the Canadian Tuxedo. Lace up a set of two-tone leather designer trainers, and finish off the look with a statement timepiece and square-framed black sunglasses for a proper clean edge aesthetic.

Uni

Simplicity is the standard, no-fail, no matter what the aesthetic. When in need of a go-to mainstay pair raw dark-wash denim jeans with a V-Neck tee, and medium vintage indigo denim jacket. If you’re experimenting with denim-and-denim for the first time, this look is a steady standard to test proportions and fit before delving into true double-denim rebellion. Dark-wash goes with everything, and the right V-Neck shirt will add definition to the overall style, while focusing on the detailed contours of your collarbone. Complete the look with a pair of leather boots, designer bandana neck piece, silver-rimmed aviators, and leather cuff or timepiece for understated rogue appeal.

The primer is in place, the next step is to take the first in the rest of your double-denim lifestyle.

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HI-FI JEANOMIC: HIGH-WAISTED JEANS STYLE GUIDE

Rarely does fashion provide a look of feminine rebellion from as modest a cut as the infamous high-waisted jean. If the key to fashion is being conventionally unfashionable, high-waisted jeans are the modern-day opus de mode. It is kind of incredible how such a simple slack can be so practical and polarizing at the same time, and even more impressive is the milieu of ways in which high-waisted jeans have been styled to suit nearly every look on the line.

Denim never truly goes “out of style,” it merely ebbs and flows with different scenes and spaces –– that, and denim exists in nearly every iteration within the world of apparel, so there is always something for any scene: especially the creative, and even the mainstream; high-waisted jeans are no different. High fashion, pop culture, Hollywood, Manhattan, Paris, Tokyo, working around town, or front row at a runway show: every space and scape is teeming with the instant nostalgia of high-waisted denim. The revival went from trend to full-stop established this year as everyone from Kylie Jenner and Bella Hadid to Jessica Alba and Chrissy Teigen gave the style a spin. Whether it’s your first or fifteenth round with the high rise, here are a few looks to lean on and guides to give a go.

When it comes to cardinal rules of high-waisted jeans: fit is the long and short of it. The high rise revival rode into the fashion world on the hemlines of reworked design and precise curation to redefine the imagery surrounding “high-waisted” –– to break it beyond “just a ‘mom jean.’” The understated genius of high-waisted jeans is that with its modern renaissance came a bastion of styles and designs to fit any form, figure, and/or facade. Better still, each new venture for the vestment brought forth even more brilliantly simplistic ways to bring core elements of runway luxe to the ready-to-wear real world.

HIGH WAISTED RIPPED MOM JEANS IN FADED BLACK

The question becomes: how to wear the high-waisted… akin to any denim or style how-to, the foundation is fundamental: framework first, pick the fit and style of pant that’s going to serve as your no-fail, holy grail, default everyday anywhere go-to (flare, kick flare, straight leg, skinny, slim, bootcut, vintage, boyfriend, you, name, it –– it’s yours), the key to any style is the signature, sort what works for you, high-waisted “works” for any shape, size, or style so the choice becomes: what feels right, what accentuates and highlights… different strokes for different folks, but at the end of the day, hem and fray, everyone puts their denim on one leg at a time; so here are a few ways to work high-waisted jeans anytime.

Start with the staple: the steady standard classic straight-leg. The high-waisted straight leg jean is an ideal primer pair to venture into new wardrobe territory for first-timers. The fit should come in closer than a boyfriend jean, with more taper at the ankle than the flare of a boot-cut, and –– rule of thumb for any and all high-waisted jeans –– the right pair should accentuate the waist and hips (not suffocate, not submerge). Pair the signature straight-leg with a minimalist aesthetic: V-Neck t-shirt and black cardigan for a neat nod to transitional weather, top-off the look with proper square framed glasses shades or bi-focals, and balance out the style with black ankle boots for a clean Monday vibe. More relaxed, less rebellious? Pair mid-washed straight-leg high-waisted jeans rolled to the ankle with a tucked scoop neck t-shirt, Kill Spencer girlfriend bag, Common Projects trainers and a bomber jacket to layer, or even just to accent the arm, for a casual nod to downtown suave.

Next to the iconic “mom jean,” among the most nostalgic styles of high-waisted jeans is the vintage wide-leg. The wide-leg high-waisted jean hit a new level of cultural prominence on the wings of the nineties rave scene and infiltrated the niche echelons of the cultural mainstream. This cut expounds on the flare of a bell-bottom throughout the entire pant. Even though the design itself is synonymous with a more severe styling pattern, it lends itself well to business and urban luxe aesthetics –– save it’s paired with the right companions.

HIGH WAISTED RIPPED MOM JEANS IN FADED BLACK

The wide-leg can vary anywhere from more formal frame of a structured trouser cut synonymous with Balenciaga collections or de facto uniforms of designer showrooms, to the neo-rave subculture silhouette of a mid-nineties JNCO. Here, try a clean slate: pair dark-wash wide-leg raw denim jeans with a silk blouse to accentuate the waist with a tuck, and still maintain contrast between the structured denim and effortless fit of a relaxed blouse. Not too keen on the tuck? Leave the blouse free, and add a belt to cinch the waist and keep the contoured silhouette. Accessorize with silver bangles to ease from the structured denim, and black Chelsea boots for a smart finish.

For all the dread the proper mom jean cut incites, a bit of perspective and devil-may-care styling makes all the difference in the world. Rework and reverse what it means to style a mom jean by keeping the denim’s options open –– dress the cut as you would a canvas. The pair of jeans you buy are forever a work-in-progress to the sartorial eye, so let cultures collide in style. Here, bridge punk with parental and give ripped, black, high-waisted skinny jeans a go. Get a vintage graphic concert tee, understated low-fi trainers, a silver-decked black moto jacket, up the ante with a leather cuff bracelet pull off punk with a bit of proper on the rim. Going for something more subtle and steady? Simplify the look with a crop-top long-sleeve and flats to pair with the classic mom jean cut for a solid everyday go-to.

HIGH WAISTED DESTRUCTED MOM JEANS IN LIGHT VINTAGE

High-waisted skinny jeans are for those who want “a look,” without searching too hard for the perfect find. Versatility is key with high-waisted skinny jeans. The pants can play the role as centerpiece of a complete look of strict form, or serve as an effortless base layer to a more relaxed sartorial statement. Contrary to their stark appearance, high-waisted skinny jeans fit well into a Fall/Winter wardrobe as the primary piece of a layered seasonal look styled for the elements. Start with dark-wash high-waisted skinny jeans, pull a charcoal fitted turtleneck from the closet, bundle beneath an oversized wool coat, and leather riding boots for a subtle London nod. Going for a bit more fringe Americana? Keep it casual with a graphic rock tee and sandals.

HIGH WAISTED RIPPED MOM JEANS IN FADED BLACK

The “High-Waisted Boyfriend Jean:” easier on the ears than “Mom Jean,” but as far as cuts are concerned –– it’s the Momma’s Boy of denim, and when partnered with the right pieces, it’s even easier on the eyes. For a low-key night out, pair a medium-wash ripped set of relaxed fit high-waisted boyfriend jeans with a black V-Neck, silk bomber jacket and leather high-top trainers, topped off with silver rimmed aviators to echo the aesthetic. Need a look for the Saturday afternoon urban sprawl? Swap the V-Neck for a silk blouse, soften the style with a knit sweater to reinforce the silhouette, and trade the moto kicks for a boot with a bit more heel to lift the mood.

HIGH WAISTED RIPPED MOM JEANS IN LIGHT VINTAGE

Minimal to maxed-out, simplified or layered from pointed-toe to neckline, high-waisted jeans are standard fashion fare for any and everyone who needs a slightly-more matured aesthetic on the daily denim they wear.

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Men's leather bomber ✔️