An Introduction To Electronics

[electrocatz]

Electromagnets

Used the thinner wire. It was a bit weak at first until the terminals were adjusted.

Had a thicker copper wire lying around and used that. Each coil is hooked up to one battery.

The thinner coils were able to pick up heavier items. 

Both electromagnets could pick up objects larger than paperclips.

[electrocatz]

DIY Battery

This project is based on Grant Thompson's Penny Battery.

This voltaic pile needed the following:

3 to 7 pennies

Zinc washers 

Aluminum foil

Cardboard

Electrical tape

Apple Cider Vinegar

5mm Blue LED (3.7 Volt)

After following the instructions on the video, I managed to complete a 3-penny battery... 

...with a reading of 0.016 x 10^2 V, or 1.6 V -- which was 1.4 volts less than Grant Thompson's battery. Perhaps the internal resistance in my battery was greater than Thompson's. Or perhaps he had better pennies.

To light up my 3.7 V Blue LED, I needed to add more pennies and washers. 

Because 3.7 V is  about (1.5 V * 2.3), I need about (2.3 * 3 ~ 7) pennies. So, I added 4 pennies and 4 zinc washers.

At about 0.038 x 10^2 V, or 3.8 V, I was assured my LED would be okay.

The ground of the diode is connected to the zinc (-) washer via the aluminum and the positive terminal is connected to the copper (+) penny.

Electrons from the copper (cathode) travel through the vinegar electrolyte and into the zinc (anode). Zinc has a higher electronegativity than copper. 

To keep the battery intact and safe from my excitement, it was wrapped in electrical tape.

The LED was out the next morning. The electrons can't travel without a present electrolyte. 

[electrocatz]

DIY Continuity Test

This board was made with copper tape, a blue LED, a resistor, and a button cell battery.

Before testing for continuity on the board, some soldering had to be completed. Six soldering points were made on top of copper tape to ensure continuity. It was my first time soldering and I mistakingly removed the iron before the solder. In an attempt to disconnect the solder from the board, I applied more heat and ended up with a messy pool of metal.

In order to complete the circuit, the battery was clipped on to one end of the board and the prongs on the other end of the board were placed to a piece of copper tape, the conductor.

Instead of a conductor, an insulator was also used. It failed to complete the circuit.

This multimeter is helping me test points of continuity on the board.