Katherine Newbury

3241109 Independent Project Ballet

[katherinenewbury]

Final Evaluation

I have really enjoyed this past term, despite it being so short and am really glad I chose Ballet as my independent project. Expanding my skills in this field is important as I would like to begin a career in it.

Part of my original learning agreement was to create a balanced timetable as this term has been quick it was important to manage the time I had really well. I enjoy planning and making lists but am not great at following them, this is a skill I am aware I need to make improvements on and need to be more specific in my next learning agreement on what exactly it is I need to make improvements on. Leaving my costume at university during the weekends and weekday evenings was quite restrictive at first but it did encourage me to stay longer hours and meet deadlines better. It also meant I could differentiate better between work hours and personal time as before now the two have always been merged together.

Earlier this week I had my first blackout scare for a long time. This meant I was stressed, tired and unfocused on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. This was the only blackout that affected ballet and the first time I've managed to attend all classes on a subject and I've loved it. A personal aim is to hopefully continue this over the summer, into 3rd year and the rest of my life. Overcoming medical problems is always on the top of my goals list. 

I am aware that the more panicked and stressed I become the worse my sewing is. I can stand back from my costume with a critical eye and know what need to be improved; I lack skills in finishing, especially when binding the bodice and skirts together by hand and my piping is very messy. I know the skills to finish a costume to a professional stand now, I just need to practice them and put them into effect.

Replicating the design accurately was important to me as part of the brief was to design the costume myself. I am really pleased it resembles the design, loved fabric sourcing and the independence of this project. I am glad we allowed begin a few weeks early to design and source because this meant I could hit the ground running when we began making. I am proud of the ballet group and have learned its okay to bounce ideas off others, before now I have always kept my work to myself.

One of the key points I made in my learning agreement was finishing my costume to a professional standard. I have gained the skills to now do so but feel finishing is still one of my weakest points. Mark wanted us all to challenge ourselves on this project and I feel I have; both with personal goals and getting the costume sew together correctly and on time to meet his deadlines. 

Word Count: 493

26/05/2014

[katherinenewbury]

Front, Side and Back view of completed Ballet costume.

Big thank you to my model Geneve.

[katherinenewbury]

The past term has been very hectic but rewarding. I wanted to take this opportunity, before my final evaluation, to reflect back on what I had achieve and gather my thoughts together. 

Above are 6 photos, one for each week of my independent project. I know I use images and photos a lot but I find it the best way to get my ideas across. It is interesting to compare how I bring to life my ideas and replicate something I designed myself. 

Big thank you to my model Geneve.

[theroyalballetandi]

[katherinenewbury]

Sleeve Tutorial

Add x2 layers of net to give extra lift to mimic design.

Make the top edge fit the arm by gathering the excess fabric into the binding. Add elastic to ensure it doesn't slip when dancing. 

2.5cm binding (meaning it has to be cut out at 10cm) at top

Zigzag stitch bottom raw edges of chiffon and silk

Before finishing off edges pull the netting inside apart to give more lift

Nice and full sleeves

The sleeves proved more of a problem for me than I thought originally. Initially I had only planned to spend one day on them at most but, because of medical set backs, I made several mistakes with them. In the end they took me 4 days (on and off) to complete. 

I found the chiffon, silk and organza layering very difficult to work with and even when tacked because I was working with such a small surface they kept moving around. Adding net was something I wanted more time to experiment with to get the right shape but in the end I had to just go with Marks original suggestion. 

Because the mannequin I was working on had no arms and the sleeves were not to be attached to the bodice I found I had a lot of free rein in the construction of them. If I had the time to redo them I would have taken more time to press them into the correct shape and this in turn would have reduced the bulky french seam on the inside. I felt I needed to french seam them as overlocking would be visible on the loose frills at the bottom. 

21/05/2014

[katherinenewbury]

My final costings for this project are all in and I have made sure everything is written down so I can keep track of my budget. I am really pleased I managed to stay below the £150 mark. I was very aware of how expensive luxurious fabrics like chiffon and silk can be so was conscious of choosing the right fabrics when sourcing back in March. All the little costs like bone caps and cotton tape really add up and I had not taken them into account initially.

[katherinenewbury]

Final Decoration Tutorial

Cut down frayed bits to neaten up

Careful when sewing not to distort bodice

Start really small and gradually get bigger

Give everything one final press

Don't rush

I am really pleased how my decoration has turned out. I have about 9 different shades of pink in my costume in total without the decoration being too overwhelming. I found the flowers quite bulky to sew on, adding the the neatness and care challenge. 

I am so proud I managed to get all the bodice decoration done within one day, with the exception of 3 unfinished flowers. The flowers on the skirt took less time to sew down as I thought so they were completed in just 2 hours on Wednesday.

[katherinenewbury]

Tutorial Notes

Flowers look lovely but make more...loads more! (Like, maybe 15 - 20 more)

On the bodice make it look like someone has thrown a bucket of flowers at it.

Start with small flowers at the right, bottom SF of bodice and them move up in clusters around the bottom CF and up to the top CF and left SF.

Clusters of 5 round bottom of skirt, not 6

Add a smaller ribbon to the big shoulder ribbons to tie the whole costume together

Apron looks lovely how it is, he agrees about the ribbons looking wrong. Maybe add small flower clusters to one of the sides at the end if I get time

Organza backing on sleeve (see sample photo above), gives it more body

Zigzag raw edges of sleeve

Use 1cm hot pink ribbon with 0.5cm cream ribbon sewn into the middle of it for elastic casing on sleeve edge

I am really pleased with how the flowers look, having made 50 of them over the weekend, and plan to spend the rest of the week sewing them to my bodice and tutu. Apart from attaching the decoration I also need to make 15-20 more flowers, finish the sleeves, attach fastenings to the tutu and add more ribbons to the strap ribbons.

Today I had intended to make and finish the sleeves but unfortunately had a blackout. I am really upset about this as this is the first blackout I have had in over 3 months, for me that was a massive achievement. It also means the work I did today was for nothing as, looking at it now it is sloppy, badly sewn and not actually what I was supposed to be doing. This means I've lost a day and am now not physically able to do any sewing this evening because I am shaky, very tired, falling over a lot and have a massive headache. I am now very concerned about getting my costume finished, not because I have an overwhelming amount to do but because, from past experience, when my medical conditions flare up they tend to get worse very suddenly before they get better. This may mean I will not be able to sleep properly over the next week or so, meaning I will struggle to wake up in the mornings therefore be late for class and adding the knock on effect of stress and tiredness to the mix. I am hoping this isn't the case as I was doing so well and am gutted to have relapsed today, on the final week.

I am hoping tomorrow will go smoothly. I will allow myself a lie in, in the hope that it helps ease my blackouts,and go into the studio for 10:30. My plan is to get all the flowers on the skirt sewn on and the fastenings. I do not need to worry about the essay hand in as I handed it in early today. 

19/05/2014

[katherinenewbury]

Ballet Bibliography

Bird, E (2002) Fairie-ality, The Fashion Collection. UK, Walker Books LTD

Davis, M (1969) The Second Princess Tina Ballet Book. UK, IPC Magazines LTD.

Davis, J (1978) Classics of The Royal Ballet. UK, Macdonald and Jane's Publishers Limited.

Devonyar, J and Kendall, R (2011) Degas and the Ballet. UK, The Royal Academy of the Arts

 English National Ballet (n/a) English National Ballet [Online] Available from: http://www.ballet.org.uk/ [Accessed 21/04/2014]

Gaynor Minden, E (2005) The Ballet Companion. USA, FiresideH

Masallar, C (1913) The Fairy Book by Warwick Goble [Online] Available from: http://cizgilimasallar.blogspot.com.tr/2014/05/the-fairy-book-by-warwick-goble.html [Accessed on 06/05/2014]

Royal Opera House (n/a) Royal Opera House [Online] Available from: http://www.roh.org.uk/ [Accessed 21/04/2014]

The Royal Ballet (2008) Romantic Ballet; Swan Lake, Giselle and La Sylphide [DVD] UK: Warner Home Video NVC Arts

Turnbull, A (1970) Girls’ World Book of Ballet. UK, the Hamlyn Publishing Group LTD

[katherinenewbury]

Decoration Tutorial

The first flower samples (1st photo) are too life and lifeless, doesn't work with my theme. These flowers were made by singing the edges to binding them so they don't fray. This technique was taught to me by fellow classmate.

The new flower samples (2nd photo)  are more 3D and alive, fitting with  my theme much better.Really beautiful. Online Tutorial to make them can be found here x

Satin stitch the flower edges to bind them.

5 or 6 flowers per cluster, 6 clusters round bottom of skirt. Make them all different shapes and sizes. First two in line with nipple, second two just back side towards back and last two either side of CB. Cover row of ribbon but not above it

Small ribbons around edge of skirt 3 cm apart.

Large ribbons scrapped from skirt, don't need them.

15 - 20 flowers on bodice, stick to CF with them.

Make samples for sleeves using organza either between layers or as a backing.

No organza in apron, will ruin the shape.

Apron 21 inches down from waistband.

No ribbon on apron (I have just enough?) 

Work out sleeves next week but no bigger than 2.5cm sleeves elastic. 

14/05/2014

[katherinenewbury]

Reflection Week 5

The final week is now upon us and I am feeling the pressure a bit, although my costume is on schedule according to my timetable, as my essay is due in on the Tuesday. 

On Monday this last week it was time to level my skirts, all 7 layers of them! This took all of the day and I was disappointed I couldn't finish it all and had to wait till Wednesday to herringbone the hem but I was glad I did wait and go home for a rest as the small amount of herringbone stitch I did do on the Monday was sloppy as I was tired. This project has been a real learning curve on how well I can control my medical condition if I take the right amount of rest break, remember to have lunch and have my weekends off. However I am disappointed to find that during the steaming and leveling my layers I have lost the puffiness of my skirt that the lifts gave it as the have flattened due to the wait of my top fabric.

I managed to make the apron in an afternoon, despite my worries with the slippy fabrics and the hand sewing I would need to do to finish it neatly. I am really thrilled with the way it has turned out, especially as people keep coming up to touch it and play with the material! I was surprised how straight forward it was to cut up, tack and slip stitch the apron it was when I really took my time to carefully iron and pin without rushing it (as I have a tendency to do that when under pressure). As I am happy with the way it looks I decided to go ahead and gather and attach it to the skirts as I wanted to be able to put on my waistband and binding before next week. I had initially intended to hand sew my 0.5cm ribbon to the apron but found adding any weight distorted the shape of the apron so I have decided to wait till a tutorial on Monday with mark to make any further decisions on decoration. 

I found machining the waistband to the skirt really hard as my top skirt fabric is very bulky silk; it kept slipping out of line and was sometimes too bulky to go through the machine. I am not very happy with the waistband or the binding as I know I can do it better but because I am very aware of my tight schedule I do not think I have to time to go back and re do it. Because of the mistakes I have made with this I am confident that I can learn from them and improve next time.

I spent Wednesday afternoon and evening, and Thursday mornings hand sewing my 0.5cm cream ribbon to the 1cm pink ribbons. I had hoped to have it all done on the Wednesday and had initially intended to machine sew my ribbons together but I found the sewing machines eat and shredded my ribbons up so took the ribbons home that evening (with Marks permission) to hand sew. Once this was done I was pleased with the result as my stitches are much less eye catching than machine sewing lines. 

I have not yet started my sleeves as I am unsure how to create such a puffy effect, as in my design, using the layers of organza, silk and chiffon. I am currently debating placing a small amount of gathered net between the layers to add volume. I have made up a couple of samples for my tutorial on Monday so shall hopefully have my ideas finalized and made by Monday evening. 

This weekend I plan to finish my essay and 500 word reflection on Saturday and make the 60 fabric flowers I need for my bodice and skirt decoration on Monday. I am really feeling under pressure of deadlines at the moment and I am hoping once Tuesday has passed I will feel a little more relaxed with my workload and presentations.

16/05/2014

[katherinenewbury]

Research Analysis

A major part of my project is research; focused research into production history of Giselle, colour palettes, bodice and skirt styles,  body shapes and fabrics. I am using the Tumblr search "Giselle" as well as books, dvds and photos I take myself to aid my research. I will make sure to reference everything I post in a final bibliography.

Colours are generally muted tones in pastels; muddy browns, soft peaches, pale pinks and lilacs and blushing reds. The character I am design and making for is a peasant girls so would be wearing everyday clothes with lacing at the front or back. The lacing on excising costumes seem to be false and generally at the CF, covering a false CF panel of the bodice which is made to blend into a false blouse. The fabrics, although luxurious silks and chiffon, are made to look textured and well worn. 

In terms of decorations my research has shown a popularity in very puffy, full sleeves, two lines of thin ribbon across the bottom of the skirts and small fabric flowers and ribbon bows. The bodice and ribbons are often in contrasting colours to the false blouse and skirts rather than matching. Little aprons are decorated with small pockets and edged with ribbons.

Sleeves vary in methods of attachment to either a false blouse or straight on to the bodice but are all made of floaty fabric such as chiffon or silk and tend to be very loose and puffy. This is so the dancers moments are not restricted. I love the full sleeves that are not attached to the bodice at all, but instead sit mid-arm on the ballerina, possibly elasticated to stay up. This style seems to be a throw back to the 40's and 50's as more contemporary costumes seem to have full blouses.

[katherinenewbury]

Initial Designs

Above are a couple of my initial designs. My theme has always been life and I wanted to reflect that in the emphasized shape of the skirt and fullness in the sleeves. Having and apron and sleeves was always part of my brief so I knew from the start I needed to include them; originally I wanted to use Gingham for my apron and bodice binding. Upon reflection this would have been a terrible idea and I am very glad Mark steered me towards more refined and luscious fabrics. 

[katherinenewbury]

Fabric Samples

Back in March I went fabric sourcing for this project in Derby, as this is where I live during University holidays. I initially wanted to go to London to source fabric from Goldhawk Road but found to cost of train fare there and back to source and there and back to buy the final fabrics would be too much. 

I wanted to find a wide variety of colours, though my colour palette had already been set in my mind as different shades of pinks, and of materials; silk, chiffon, lace, satin and the fabric that inspired this project's theme Gingham. I am really pleased  with my samples and enjoyed finding them, I think fabric sourcing is one of my strengths and want to consider it as a skill I can include and build on in my future career in costume making. 

19/03/2014

[katherinenewbury]

Above is my revised timetable for week 5.

At the moment I am quite concerned about time restrictions as I need to finish my essay for Tuesday next week and I still have 800 words to go. I am also aware I need to make 50/60 fabric flowers from scratch myself and I have no previous experience in this so I am relying on online tutorials with no knowledge of how long it would take to make them or attach them to my bodice and skirt. I have not yet started my sleeves or apron and both are going to be made from slippy chiffon and silk so will take time to cut out, tack and decorate. 

[katherinenewbury]

If I was going to be fitting my costume to a dancer the time would be now, so that any alterations can be made before sewing in the waistband or hemming to skirt. The bodice can be easily altered by unpicking the side seams as this will no affect the piping or the boning channels. The bodice can also be pulled in more to fit the dancers figure by pulling on the two ends of the piping cord before it is whip stitched down inside the finished bodice. 

I was very nervous that the bodice would not fit the mannequin as this is only the second time I have made a ballet costume and the first it came out way too small. As you can see it fits perfectly and sits on the top of the full skirts without problem. I am so pleased with the way it curves and that it just fits on the model!

09/05/2014

[katherinenewbury]

Reflection Week 4

Although it doesn't feel like it at the moment I have had a very productive week; I finished my bodice including bones, fastenings and piping, attached the top fabric layer to my skirt and started making sample decorations. 

I was a little worried when Mark suggested I redo the CB side panel ribbon loops because it meant taking off two of the boning channels, which were the bulky ones which both had to be pressed the same way rather than open, making it a challenge to neatly sew them to the seam in the first place. It also meant taking off my binding which now means, having resewn it back on, that it not as neat as I would have liked it to be because of the overlapping layers of stitching. Despite my concern with timings I managed to get the alterations done over Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning.

As you can see from the before and after photos above the loops are now much bigger (2.5cm rather than 0.75cm). This will speed up the dressing process for the dancer and making it simpler and quicker for the dresser to lace the false back.

I am really pleased with how my overall costume is turning out, although Mark and several others have commented on how pink it is! Strangely the top fabric on the bodice has developed a "plastic-y" texture. When I sourced and purchase the fabric it had a soft texture but now, maybe with handling, pressing and the addition of stayflex it has changed. Apart from that the costume is progressing well and I am confident I can finish it within my time frame from the impending deadline, although that is just over 2 weeks away! 

The shape of the bodice is quite accurate to my original design lines from draping on the stand and I am proud of the way it has turned out; the curves extenuating the figure and the combination of the sweetheart neckline and sharp curve at the CF bottom making almost a heart.

Currently I am managing to stick to my schedule well and have not missed any designated work days, which I am really proud of as this was my big aim for this term. This week I have completed everything I planned to do, now I need to assess what needs to be done next week and revise my timetable.

I am aware that I use a lot of images to support my work, especially in my note book which is full of diagrams on the bodice construction and on my blog here. This is because I am a very visual person and work more with images than words, hence me taking instructions literally. I have found over the last few weeks that the best way to communicate my ideas is through a drawing or photo because a word can mean many different things but an image is exactly what it is.

09/05/2014