A New Yorker's Food + Travel Adventures in Italy

buongustaia (n.) bon vivant, epicurean, foodie. New Yorker living la dolce vita in Milano.

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Recent Adventures

I haven't disappeared, I promise. The past few months have been a complete whirlwind, but you can follow me on Instagram (@elenaciprietti) for more frequent updates. Here's what I've been up to!

I fell over head over heels with Rome (again), and keep falling in love as I repeatedly watch La Grande Bellezza. 

Super last minute trip to Egypt (Dahab & Sharm el-Sheikh) for some sun and snorkeling. Spent the last day of 2013 on Tiran Island, one of the most breathtaking beaches I have ever seen. 

Crossed "hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia" off my travel bucket list. 

Traditional Turkish breakfast in Istanbul.

Aperitivo of the year in Piazza dell'Anfiteatro in Lucca (Tuscany). Such a cool mix of ancient and ultra-modern.

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Anniversaire à Paris

I had been dreaming of Angelina's since the last time I was in Paris. Skipped the line for the tea room and headed right to the boutique for a babylone - raspberry confit, vanilla mousse and almond biscuit - and the best hot chocolate in the world.

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Autunno

Italy in the fall is absolutely perfect with its breathtaking foliage and seasonal ingredients, like pumpkins and truffles. Here are some of my favorites from Le Langhe (wine region in Piemonte), Alto Adige (region close to the Austrain border) and Milan.

Italian comfort food. Cinghiale (wild boar) stewed in a Barbera wine sauce, served with potatoes and spinach. @ La Cantinetta, Barolo (Piemonte).

Tajarin (thin Piemontese pasta made with egg) topped with white truffles.

The stunning Rivetto winery (Serralunga d'Alba, Piemonte).

One of the most delicious red wines I've ever tasted.

Nocciomiele, a heavenly mix of honey and hazelnuts, spotted at a farmers market in La Morra (Piemonte).

Peaceful solitude along the Passo di Costalunga (Alto Adige).

Tris di canederli (three tastings of bread dumplings with different cheeses, spinach and horseradish), salad with crispy speck (local prosciutto) and prosecco with blueberry puree @ Vögele, Bolzano.

Pumpkin soup with lemongrass, foie gras and seared duck @ Aromando Bistrot, Milano.

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Latteria di San Marco, Milano

Latteria di San Marco: a must see in Milan. The owner and chef swears by his silver pans and seasonal ingredients, claiming that high quality food is the secret to a happy and healthy life. The restaurant is tiny with less than 10 tables and the menu changes everyday, often featuring vegetables directly from the family's garden in Piacenza. 

Highlights included the incredibly tender filetto di manzo steak, zucchini puree and fresh ricotta cheese, and the 30euro/person bill was reasonable for its historic reputation, chic Brera address and portion sizes. 

Via San Marco, 24 (02.6597653), open Monday - Friday for lunch and dinner. 

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Vacanze negli States

August in Italy means closing up shop and heading to the beach and/or mountains for the month. This year, I had the opportunity to head back home to New York and travel around for a few weeks to re-connect with friends and family, and start up some new and exciting projects. Here are some highlights from the trip!

First meal in NYC, Roquefort Burger + Moscow Mule @ The Spotted Pig (West Village). I dream of those rosemary garlic shoestring fries with spicy mustard.

Bethesda Fountain, Central Park. Although it is filled with tourists, I find this to be one of the most peaceful little corners of the city.

Wise words found antiquing @ Cold Spring (Hudson Valley), New York. Highly recommended for a day trip.

Beer tasting (PUMPKIN ALE!!!) @ Captain Lawrence Brewing Company, Elmsford (Westchester), New York

Sunflowers @ Harvest on Hudson, Hastings (Westchester), New York. Excellent cacio e pepe and fish dishes.

Three-day getaway @ The Montauk Beach House. I absolutely fell in love with Montauk - as strange as it sounds, it reminded me so much of Ibiza.

"Writing is not a lost art" journal @ The Montauk Beach House. A nice complimentary touch for guests.

I loaded my suitcase up with Brotherhood riesling (served in the restaurant of the White House!) + sparkling Moscato and Wolffer Estate rosé + chardonnay. 

If I ever moved back to America, Washington D.C. would definitely be at the top of my list. Very chic and international city. Missing photos from a decadent meal at Central Michel Richard. Go there and eat the fried chicken + mac n' cheese - you'll thank me later.

Bethany Beach, Delaware. I've spent many summers at this beach and happy to see that the food scene has drastically improved since my last visit. My go-to restaurants in the area are Just Hooked and Touch of Italy (nothing better than a fresh squeezed Grapefruit Crush after a day at the beach).

;-) @ Surf Bagel (Lewes, Delaware)

Dark truffle terrine with sea salt, hazelnut ice cream @ Just Hooked (Fenwick Island, Delaware)

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Taglioni al mirtillo con gamberi

Taglioni al mirtillo con gamberi (blueberry taglioni pasta with shrimp) in lovely Boccadasse, Genova

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Homemade Pizza

Making pizza in the countryside! We made dozens in the wood burning oven - my favorite was gorgonzola and walnut 

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Salento

I can't believe it took me so long to get to Salento and I can not wait to go back. June was the perfect time to enjoy the desolate beaches in Gallipoli and empty streets in Lecce before the late July/August rush overpopulates the peninsula.

Relais Corte Palmieri - conveniently located in the old part of the city. Impeccable customer service and beautiful rooms.

Swordfish carpaccio, rosé and my favorite food from the area: TARALLI (sweet or savory circular crackers).

Hot & cold fish appetizers at Angolo Blu. 

Spiaggia della Purità

Samsara Beach

Getting lost in Lecce. One of the few cities I've visited where I felt as if I was stepping back in time - maybe to the 1920's. Some call it the Florence of the South and, in my opinion, Lecce is about 10,000x more beautiful. The exterior of the Basilica di Santa Croce was under construction, but it should be breathtaking once it is completed.

Last bite in Salento - bruschetta made with crispy bread, stracciatella cheese, cherry tomatoes, arugula, olive oil and sea salt

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Fast Track Detox Round 2

(Almost) six months later, I decided to give the Fast Track Detox  another run. I really enjoyed my results and wanted to get back on track after a very long winter. Well...and to prepare for my trip to Salento in a few weeks!

I'm currently on day 3 and enjoying it so far, mostly because of my new blender. I don't know how/why I've lived without one for so long! I have to admit that I was already bored after the first day until I decided to go a new route in incorporating the vegetables, instead of just eating plain salads and steamed greens.

I've also been drinking lots of water infused with mint, cucumber and lime. Just like a Moscow Mule... without the vodka.

One beet, 10 cherries (no pits), small handful of raspberries and juice of one lime. AMAZING. You can't taste the beets at all and the consistency was very thick and creamy. I just used fresh fruit (no ice or anything frozen added). 

I will be making an arugula, pear and kiwi juice tomorrow. What are your favorite juice recipes?

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Zola Rossa

My new favorite pizza: Zola Rossa (gorgonzola and fresh tomato sauce). It's not usually found written on pizza menus, but you will definitely be glad you tried it. I finally tried Sibilla (Via Mercato, 14) last night and was really impressed. The crust was both pillowy and crispy, the gorgonzola was mild and the olive oil drizzle was nothing short of amazing - one of the most fragrant I've ever tried on a pizza. 

PS: I would definitely recommend checking out Orticola (Giardini Pubblici) this weekend! I had a great time at the event last night and will definitely be stopping by for more plants and flowers!

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Homemade Pickles

As strange as it sounds, one of the foods I miss most from America are pickles, especially the super crunchy garlicky ones you find in a deli. I came across some pickles here in Italy, but they were usually tasteless gherkin pickles...boring! I headed to Pinterest to find a good recipe, but I noticed that many of them included adding 2 cups of sugar. TWO CUPS?! I would rather have some gelato or nutella for that much sugar, not some pickles.

I finally came across this recipe with no sugar added! I had to tweak it a bit because I couldn't find dill seeds or fresh dill so I used 3 tsp of died dill. I added an extra clove of garlic and swapped black peppercorns for red peppercorns. I would definitely use this recipe again, probably using less vinegar. 

PS: Heading to Salento (Brindisi, Lecce & Gallipoli) in a few weeks...any hot spots or restaurant recommendations in the area?!

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Cinco de Mayo

Completely forgot that today was Cinco de Mayo! Anyone know of a good Mexican restaurant in Milano? I tried the few that the city has to offer, but they weren't very good.

This Real Simple Lime Sorbet Margarita recipe is perfect to celebrate! I substituted the lime sorbet for lemon sorbet and I prefer salt on the rim instead of sugar.

Ingredients

1 lime, cut into 8 wedges

1/4 cup salt

2 pints lemon sorbet

1/2 cup tequila

Directions

Rub the lime wedges around the rims of 8 stemmed glasses. Place the salt on a small plate. Turn each glass upside down and dip the rims in the salt to coat.

Place 2 scoops of sorbet in each glass and pour 1 tablespoon of tequila over the top of each. Serve with a spoon.

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Negroni Jello-Shot Spoons

Negroni: A classy take on the infamous jello shot (Castello di Marne, Bergamo)

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Osteria dei Poeti - Corso Garibaldi, 40 Milano

Ok, so I love this place. No frills, not much put into the ambiance - just really great food.

To start off, we were recommended the Sangiovese red and went from there. While flipping through the menu, I found that they feature cheese from the town my grandfather was born in (Farindola, Abruzzo). A town of 1,600 about one hour from Pescara a.k.a the middle of nowhere. I've had this cheese many times before, but never knew that this is the only cheese in the world that is still made from curdles of pig's milk, staying true to the ancient Roman tradition (thanks, Wikipedia).  Contrary to my hopes of finding long lost relatives, the owners are from Emilia Romagna.

We started off with a mix of salumi, squacquerone (kind of a mix between cream cheese and mozzarella) and rucola, served with piadina (flatbread).

The last time I went here I tried the tagliata all'arancia (thin steak with oranges), but I didn't want to fall into my usual habit of always ordering what I love and therefore decided to sample some of the orecchiette with 'nduja, a Calabrian super hot spread made from sausage, and carciofi in cartoccio, artichokes, potatoes and different cheeses cooked in a parchment paper bag in the oven.

Drum roll please: torta di pere e cioccolato. When I think of this cake, the Food Network show "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" comes to mind. Melted chocolate together with moist pears and come cake to hold it all together. Top it off with a glass of passito and I'm a happy girl. 

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Trattoria delle Zucche (Osmate, Varese)

Some of my favorite springtime memories in Italy are by the lakes in Varese, about 45 minutes north of Milan. Last year I discovered Trattoria delle Zucche (Via Maggiore, 30 Osmate) and fell in love. I knew this would be the perfect place to take Alessandra, my American guest, for lunch!

The three of us shared the two appetizer specials: lago (lake) & terra (ground). The appetizers are more than enough for a big lunch and we sampled a bit of everything from the six plates. 

Tartare di salmerino, gamberi di fiume alla catalana, prosciutto crudo with gnocco fritto, pumpkin, eggplant and zucchini tempura.

Filetto di persico gratinato (My personal favorite! I believe it's translated to perch filet with breadcrumbs)

Last but certainly not least, goat cheese with red onion and herbs and buttery seared polenta. 

Finished off our afternoon at the lake with a long walk in Angera

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Liguria

I apologize for my sporadic posting! I have been busy with different freelance projects (tante belle cose, direi!) and getting used to juggling everything. Sending some updates via Twitter @elenaciprietti

Last weekend I went to Liguria, the region of beautiful sea, focaccia and pesto. I am very lucky to call this place my second home in Italy - it is my favorite places on Earth. I spend a lot of time there during the spring and summer, especially in Golfo Paradiso (Bogliasco, Pieve Ligure, Sori, Recco + Camogli). Updates to come!

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Arrivederci Roma

I spent a few days in Rome catching up with my dear friends from NY! I haven't been to Rome in a few years so it was nice to see some of my favorite spots again like Piazza Navona. 

Roman food is rich, creamy and also known as one of the most caloric Italian cuisines. I found this gem on a mirror in a small boutique: 

Calories: Tiny creatures that live in your closet and sew your clothes a little bit tighter every night. So no, it's definitely not the cacio e pepe!

Semifreddo all'amaretto.