#taglioni

[cnladies]

TIAN XIWEI 田曦薇 in TAGLIONI ostrich feather blue sequined strapless off-shoulder dress | 2024 NYE Gala — Dragon TV

Tian Xiwei: more photos here 2024 NYE Gala: more photos here

[chic-a-gigot]

Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 5, vol. 18, 2 février 1896, Paris. 6. Jupon Taglioni, Maison Jeanne d'Arc, 265, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

36. Jupon Taglioni, Maison Jeanne d'Arc, 265, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris — Saison deluxe et de l'étés que l’hiver. Les toilettes se font très riches, et il faut aux jupes lourdes et épaisses un juponnage spécial. C’est pourquoi la Maison Jeanne d’Arc vient de créer le Taglioni, qui répond bien a l’idée que l’on se fait du ballonné, de la souplesse de la célèbre danseuse. Ce jupon prête à la tournure une gràce exquise, une légèreté qui met la femme merveilleusement en lumière. Le Taglioni, avec son froufrou d’ornements, se fait depuis 58 francs; en soie brochée, la dépense est de 70, 80, 90 et 100 francs. C’est l’âme de la toilette, l’armature de la coquetterie que ce nouveau jupon, chef-d’œuvre de genre, qui répand l’harmonie dans le développement en éventail des robes à godets. L’album illustré, comprenant tous les modèles de corsets avec buses et sans buse, lingerie, trousseaux, jupons de soie, est envoyé à titre gracieux par Mme Desbruères, â toutes nos lectrices qui en feront la demande. Il suffit d’écrire à la Maison Jeanne d’Arc, 265, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris. 36. Taglioni Petticoat, Maison Jeanne d'Arc, 265, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris — Summer and winter season luxury. The dresses are made very rich, and the heavy and thick skirts require a special petticoat. This is why the Maison Jeanne d'Arc has just created the Taglioni, made with the volume and flexibility of a dancer in mind. This petticoat lends an exquisite grace to the turn, a lightness that highlights the lady marvelously. The Taglioni, with its frill of ornaments, has been made for 58 francs; in brocaded silk, the expense is 70, 80, 90 and 100 francs. It is the soul of the toilet, the framework of coquetry that this new petticoat, a masterpiece of the genre, which spreads harmony in the fan-like development of godet dresses. The illustrated album, including all models of corsets with bust and without bust, lingerie, outfits, silk petticoats, is sent free of charge by Mrs. Desbruères, to all our readers who request it. Just write to the Maison Jeanne d'Arc, 265, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris.

[detournementsmineurs]

“Costume" d'Eugène Lami et Michel Fresnay porté par Ghislaine Thesmar dans le rôle-titre de "La Sylphide” de Filippo Taglioni (1832) repris et chorégraphié par Pierre Lacotte (1972) à l'exposition “Héroïnes Romantiques” du Musée de la Vie Romantique, Paris, juillet 2022.

[clove-pinks]

1840s Friday: Fashionable Names

George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield, 1840 lithograph by Richard James Lane after Alfred d'Orsay (National Portrait Gallery)

A great coat must be a “Chesterfield,” a “Taglioni,” or a “Codrington;” a little rag of coloured silk for the neck is called a “Byron Tie;” and so on. If the things are not dignified by these terms, the Gent does not think much of them.

— Albert Smith, The Natural History of the Gent (1847)

Happy Eighteen-Forties Friday my friends, today we look at some of the trendsetters whose names were attached to the fashionable man's wardrobe. The Dictionary of Fashion History by Valerie Cumming (building on the work of C.W. Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington) describes the Chesterfield coat:

An overcoat, named after the 6th Earl of Chesterfield (1805–1866), a leader of fashion in the 1830s and 1840s. A slightly waisted overcoat, single- or double-breasted, having a short back vent and centre back seam but no seam at the waist, or side vents. A velvet collar was usual, as were side-flapped pockets and an outside left-breast pocket.

A period guide for tailors, Joseph Couts' A Practical Guide for the Tailor's Cutting-room (1848 edition on Google Books), mentions that "greatcoats are so differently cut by different tailors," and includes an illustration of loose and tight Chesterfield coats titled "An Unexpected Meeting."

The Taglioni is credited to ballet master Filippo Taglioni (1777-1871), and distinguished by a large collar and wide lapels, in the form of a double-breasted greatcoat or single-breasted Taglioni frock coat. The Dictionary of Fashion History includes an 1843 fashion plate with Prince Albert wearing a version of the Taglioni frock coat:

"The Taglioni Coat" was also a broadside ballad, in which the poor but fashionable singer wins the hand of a wealthy woman: "We are married now, a happy pair/ I keeps a shay and pony/ A flunkie too, to curl my hair/ And brush my Taglioni."

The Codrington coat, similar in design to the Chesterfield, is named after Royal Navy admiral Sir Edward Codrington, who fought at Trafalgar and in the Battle of Navarino.

Sir Edward Codrington in 1845 (National Portrait Gallery, London)

Finally, the namesake of the Byron tie is the famous Lord Byron.

The Dictionary of Fashion History calls it "a small, narrow necktie"—not exactly what Byron is wearing in his portraits. Perhaps the Byron tie shrank over time, because initially it seems to resemble a loose neckerchief.

Illustrations from The Art of Tying the Cravat by H. Le Blanc (1828) (Archive full text). This book is an invaluable guide to men's neckwear of the early 19th century, and the author offers an explanation of the first "Byron tie":

As Lord Byron differed so widely from the world in general, we can hardly expect to find in the Cravat worn by this prince of poets, any of that élégance recherchée which generally characterize an Englishman of rank. It is universally allowed that the least constraint of the body has a corresponding effect on the mind, and it must, therefore, be admitted, that to a certain extent, a tight Cravat will cramp the imagination, and, as it were, suffocate the thoughts. [...] in every portrait where he is painted in the ardour of composition, his neck is always free from the trammels of the neckcloth.

By 1843, Punch magazine could snark, "An elegant substitute for the cravat is a bit of mousselaine de laine a few inches long or a bit of broad shoe-string to which the recherché name of 'Byron tie' has been given." (quoted in Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century, C. Willett Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington)

[detournementsmineurs]

Melvil Poupaud, Alice Taglioni et Daphné Patakia dans “OVNI(s) (Saison 2)” série créée par Clémence Dargent et Martin Douaire et réalisée par Antony Cordier, décembre 2022.

[detournementsmineurs]

“Marie Taglioni” bronze de Jean Auguste Barre (1837) dans le Ballet “La Sylphide” de Filippo Taglioni (1832) à l'exposition “Héroïnes Romantiques” du Musée de la Vie Romantique, Paris, juillet 2022.

[detournementsmineurs]

"La Panthère Rose" de Shawn Levy (2006) - reboot de la première série de films mettant en vedette l'inspecteur Clouseau par Blake Edwards et avec Peter Sellers - avec Steve Martin, Jean Reno, Emily Mortimer, Kevin Kline, Beyoncé Knowles, Clive Owen et la participation d'Alice Taglioni, mai 2021.

[detournementsmineurs]

"La Dernière Folie de Claire Darling" de Julie Bertuccelli (2018) - adapté du roman "Le Dernier Vide-grenier de Faith Bass Darling" de Lynda Rutledge (2012) - avec Catherine Deneuve, Chiara Mastroianni, Alice Taglioni, Laure Calamy, Samir Guesmi, Johan Leysen et Olivier Rabourdin, avril 2020.