Victorians believed that arsenic in cosmetics can enhance the pale and delicate look that was fashionable in that period.
The Victorian era valued white skin as a sign of wealth and status: women of the upper class wanted to look even paler, as if they never had to work under the sun.
“It was all about how to make your skin more translucent,”
explains Alexis Karl, an expert on Victorian cosmetics and a perfume maker.
Makeup in the 1800s had two main trends: “natural” and “painted.” The “natural” look aimed to emulate the “English Rose”; a virtuous and lovely woman, but Karl points out “it was understood that there was a lot of artifice going on.” The “painted” look was more daring; these women did not conceal their use of makeup or their desire to be beautiful.
A woman queries the durability of cosmetics at a pharmacy. (Photo: Wellcome Images, London)
Harper’s Bazaar had been publishing a column “The Ugly Girl Papers: Or, Hints for the Toilet.” It was written by a Mrs. S.D. Powers, a beauty expert of the time, and became so popular that it was re-published in 1874 as an anthology. The “Ugly Girl Papers” has the tone of a wise aunt with endless advice on how to solve your beauty woes.
An 1898 advertisement for Dr. Campbell’s Safe Arsenic Complexion Wafers
To get this near-death look, women would squeeze a few drops citrus juice or perfume into their eyes, or reach for some belladonna drops, which lasted longer, but also caused blindness. Pale skin was encouraged with veils, gloves and parasols, but could also be bought: Sears & Roebuck sold a popular product called Dr. Rose’s Arsenic Complexion Wafers, which were just that–little white chalk wafers filled with arsenic for delicate nibbling. They were specifically advertised as “perfectly harmless.”
Arsenic, a natural metalloid found in the earth’s crust, is an extremely toxic compound that can be tolerated for a time when eaten in small amounts (and has occasionally been used in medicine). Long-term exposure, however, is extremely unpleasant: nervous system and kidney damage, hair loss, conjunctivitis and growths called arsenical keratoses plague the body along with, yes, vitiligo, which causes pigment loss in the skin. Arsenic, which became addictive as a person’s tolerance built, was used in as many forms as possible.
Lola Montez, a Victorian actress and traveling beauty writer, wrote in her book The Arts of Beauty about how women in Bohemia (now a part of the Czech Republic) regularly bathed in arsenic springs, “which gave their skins a transparent whiteness.” She also warned of the price: “once they habituate themselves to the practice, they are obliged to keep it up the rest of their days, or death would speedily follow.”
Though beauty-related deaths were not always reported as arsenic poisoning, it wasn’t that Victorian women didn’t know arsenic was toxic or addictive. It was not uncommon for it to be used as a poison by murderesses of the era, and by the late 1800s arsenic was known to be a dangerous ingredient when used in dyes and wallpaper. The use of arsenic in small quantities for skin lightening was considered so effective that it continued for decades.
Every time I read about this, I keep wondering, how do we stil exist? :D