Preserved coyote paw, available for sale here
Preserved red fox paw, available for sale here
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@lookatmydeadthings
Preserved coyote paw, available for sale here
Preserved red fox paw, available for sale here
Florida souvenir alligator head, available for sale here
Netherland Dwarf soft mount pelt, available for sale here
hi!! do you have any reccs for people wanting to get into taxidermy? its been an interest of mine for years, but i have no clue how to actually get started. i already have a couple deer pelts in my freezer from family/friends
The first thing to do is to look up the laws and regulations about taxidermy in your area! In some places it’s illegal to practice taxidermy even on the hobbyist level without a license, so make sure to check your laws to ensure you can practice taxidermy legally.
The most direct path would be to see if anyone in your area is offering taxidermy classes or seminars! The benefit of taking courses is that you will be learning from people who already have years of experience in the taxidermy field, and they can provide helpful instruction and critiques of your work. The downside is the expense, as classes tend to range from a couple hundred to a few thousand dollars for a day to a few weeks of instruction. If you’re serious about breaking into the professional scene of taxidermy, starting a business, or competing in shows, classes are the best way to get a head start!
Now from a hobbyist standpoint, the best way to get started is to gather as much information as possible. The more you know going into your first mount, the easier it is once you get started ordering materials and mounting. If you want to learn from home, there are a few selected readings, videos, forums, and just general information I’d recommend.
Books:
Big-Game Taxidermy: A Complete Guide to Deer, Antelope, and Elk by Bargain Price - I’ve read this book and it has some great information about general taxidermy practices. It’s for game heads but can be applied to any medium to large mammal mounts.
Home Book of Taxidermy and Tanning by Gerald J. Grantz - Another one I read for research purposes. It has a lot of good information about different kinds of mounts, tanning methods, and various uses for preserved animal parts. It’s better for information then instruction though!
Herter’s Professional Course in the Science of Modern Taxidermy - I haven’t read this one in a while but it was one of the books that helped me get started. It had a lot of information, some history, and even a section for mounting more odd animals like birds.
Taxidermy Step By Step by Waddy F. McFall - This one is in my library but I’ve only briefly thumbed through it. However it has a lot of good info like how to take form measurements.
An Atlas of Animal Anatomy for the Artist - this is the full online pdf of the book. Though not specifically a taxidermy book, this is the kind of anatomical understanding you want to have of the animals you intend to preserve. Taxidermy is the process of mounting the skin over a form, but the forms will still need top be adjusted to accurately portray the underlying muscle and bone structure. Needless to say, it doesn’t hurt to have a few anatomy books in your library, and there are more specific taxidermy based books for anatomy available.
I’d also recommend some of the older books from pre-1950, especially books 1800s and early 1900s. Things have changed a lot since the beginning of taxidermy, but there’s still some information I’ve only been able to find in older trapping, tanning, and taxidermy books that’s still relevant today.
Online Resources:
taxidermy.net - an amazing forum to gather information and materials! I tend to just read through old topics and pin or write down any information that I think is relevant to how I wish to go about my taxidermy practices.
Ojai Valley Taxidermy - the YT channel of Chuck Testa (yes that Chuck Testa). The link is for the playlist of Testa’s Taxidermy Tips where he goes through the entire process of mounting a deer shoulder mount. I watched this while I mounted my first deer and it was incredibly helpful!
Brian Hendricks Taxidermy - another great YT channel with information from start to finish for skinning, tanning, and taxidermy. The link is for a playlist of him mounting a fox, and he even covers very important details such as tail sewing.
Mountable vs Non-Mountable Hides - some animals are not even able to be mounted properly, so it’s important to know the difference between the two.
Documentaries (these are more for fun and inspiration):
Taxidermy’s Best in Show - New York Times
Preserving Lonesome George
World Taxidermy Championship - TheBrainScoop
Lifelike
Memorial - A Tribute to Taxidermy
Now that you’ve done your research and gathered a tanned critter to mount, you’ll need to order materials. VanDykes and McKenzie are our go-to places for ordering forms, eyes, clay, habitats, and really anything else that you’d need. My personal recommendation would be to buy a mounting kit, as they tend to come with all you need and more, including step by step instructions on how to go about mounting the animal. If there’s not a kit available, here’s a(n) (incomplete) tool list of what you’ll need for a basic mount. Some of this will be available on the site while other things you can use off-brand substitutes.
Taxidermy Form
Critter Clay
Hide Paste
Needles (straight & curved, size depends on the animal)
Thread (dental floss is actually also good substitute and cheaper)
Tucking Tools (clay/ceramic tools)
Dremel (very recommended for carving forms)
Sandpaper (various grits)
Glass Eyes (will need to be measured to fit the form)
Paints & Brushes (acrylic washes will work)
Comb & Brush
Blow Dryer
You have all your tools, materials, information, and your animal, so it’s time to set up your workspace. Your work area should be somewhere well lit and have a space where you can set up an area of photo references. When mounting an animal it’s good to have multiple images of the animal displayed around to make the animal look as lifelike as possible. Remember to also think about the ‘mood’ of the piece. Taxidermy is like a 3D photo that captures a moment in the animal’s life. Were they alert, nervous, hungry? These questions help a ton with gathering references and knowing what you want the final product to look like. Even a few concept sketches can help to know how you want everything positioned.
Now that everything is setup, it’s time to start mounting! The videos linked above provide much more detailed information for any large or small mount, but I’ll also list out the major steps that go into completing a mount. These also don’t have to be done in this particular order, but they are steps that must be completed:
Soak the hide to make it easier to slip over the form.
Insert eyes into the form.
Insert earliners into the ears.
Fit the hide over the form to find areas that need to be adjusted.
Make adjustments (sand/carve/mold the form if it’s too loose or too tight)
Add clay to nose, lips, eyes, etc.
Fit hide over the form again, if everything fits, cover the form in hide paste to attach the skin to the form. If things are still too lose or too tight, continue to adjust the form until everything fits.
Sew up incisions.
Tuck the lips, eyes, nose.
Make secondary adjustments (adjust nose, ears, eyes, add/remove clay)
Pin the hide to ensure it doesn’t shift while drying.
Clean off any clay or paste that’s on the fur.
Blow dry, brush, and comb to groom/fluff/dry the hide.
Complete finish work (painting the eyes, ears, nose, etc., extra grooming/brushing.)
And that’s it! Talking from personal experience, taxidermy is just a lot of working and re-working the hide and form to ensure you have the right base for the skin to stretch over. It’s not particularly difficult, but there are certain details and skills that separate the hobbyist from the professional (especially in form adjustment and finish work). Like every form of art, you’ll only continue to improve your craft and become better and more efficient the more you study and practice.
Anyway, I hope this helps, and good luck!!
etsy I insta I ko-fi
Is there anyone out there who would be willing to trade a use Wacom Intuos for bones/pelts? I need a 4x6 or larger tablet to replace my old one that stopped working. It doesn’t have to be a new model (old one is an intuos 3 and I prefer that one), just has to be in good condition.
Things I have to trade include:
A full coyote skeleton (currently degreasing)
Two smaller black bear skulls
A partial raccoon skeleton (missing most of her feet)
A partial muskrat skeleton (all but the feet)
A fetal coyote pup (frozen, would need to be processed)
Two fetal raccoon kits
Self-tanned coyote/fox/raccoon pelts (not perfect because I was learning to tan on them)
A full doe skull with bottom jaw
If anyone has something to trade, please let me know!
Indian gharial skull replica
🌬️🌊🔥⛰️
Vulture Shop’s Give-A-Way!!
I’ve almost reached 2,000 followers on my Tumblr, so it’s time for a giveaway! You all mean the world to me with your support in my art, I’d love to give a little love back to you.
Rules
You must live in the U.S.
You must be 18 years or older / have proof of parents permission.
You have to be following @vultureshop (me) on Tumblr.
Like and re-blog this post! Every like and re-blog will count as an entry!
No Give-A-Way blogs.
What you will receive!
Metallic red muskrat skull
Meadow vole paw necklace
Resin art using spices
Some small crystals
Good luck to everyone who enters!
Instagram ~ Etsy ~ Facebook
Bone pathology & antler growth
Fallow deer normally have palmated antlers, which you can see on the shed antler next to the skull. The antler on the skull is pretty obviously deformed when compared to the other antlers. This deer was young so he doesn’t have the obvious palms, but you can see the beginnings of them on the normal antler. Sometimes antlers can become deformed if there is damage to the pedicle or to the antler during the velvet stage, or if the deer is expending energy elsewhere.
As it turns out, he had a pretty nasty infection in his jaw on the same side as the deformed antler. The infection had eaten away a significant amount of bone, meaning that when I found him there was literally only muscle and infected tissue holding the jaw together. There’s a lot of new bone growth too which is why the pieces won’t fit together anymore. I’m not entirely sure why there was an infection but so far the thoughts are that a tooth became infected which spread to the bone. Possibly another deer broke the jaw while fighting during the rut which then became infected, or someone shot him in the jaw with a small caliber rifle.
My cat and fox skeletons.
Feral cat (Felis Catus) skull inside a short fin mako shark (Isurus oxyrinchus) jaw.
The cat skull was cleaned by me along with his pelt, and the mako jaws are probably 10 or so years old. This set of shark jaws are actually the smallest I have!
Bull Terrier (Canis Familiaris)
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Love my artwork? Want to get it in your mailbox every month? Become my Patron at the $15 Art of the Month level at http://www.patreon.com/lupagreenwolf and you’ll get something I’ve made sent to you each month. There are plenty of other Patronage options, too, with more art, books, curiosity cabinets, and much more! And every Patron has access to my exclusive Patron-only feed with WIP shots, special deals, and more. Join today at http://www.patreon.com/lupagreenwolf before the end of the month to get in on July’s awesomeness :)
These are real taxidermied male ducklings!
Sadly the egg production industry has no need for multitudes of non-laying males. Tragically these animals are traditionally discarded.
We are happy to salvage these birds and offer them a new chance at life with respectful and loving owners, such as yourself.
Price is per bird and worldwide shipping is available.
We are asking $35CAD (~26USD), buy them now on www.SkullStore.ca or in-store Thursday-Sunday (12-6pm) at 1193 Weston Rd, Toronto.
***SAVE 10% ON ALL WEB-ORDERS UNTIL JUNE 30TH!!*** Celebrate our museum’s 3rd birthday! Enter promo code “HAPPYBIRTHDAY” on checkout.
So one of the sections of Vulture Culture 101 will include some photos of commonly encountered hides and bones (particularly from North America). This is to help readers with identification of items they may have on hand, but aren’t quite sure what they are. Obviously it’ll be impossible to take photos of every single species out there, but I’d at least like to help readers know the difference between a raccoon skull and an opossum skull!
We’re making good progress on the guest essay tutorials; I’m currently in another round of edits, and I’m really pleased with the writers’ work. We still have a bit of polishing to do, but overall things are looking great :)
If you aren’t familiar with it yet, you can find out about my upcoming book, Vulture Culture 101: A Book For People Who Like Dead Things, at http://www.vultureculture101.com :)