Skirts, ball gowns and chitons. Fantasy fashion is seen more often on women than the men so we focus on their clothes more. Sorry for this bible of a post.
Stop that dirty mind. These are the structures that hold out the gown to keep it the shape desired.
Farthingale/verdugado: were a series of hoops stitched into a sheath of material. This was worn under the gown in order to plump it out.
Pannier: Unlike to the farthingale, these were set at the hips rather than all around the body. These were popular in the 17th and 18th centuries. They extended the width of the skirt keeping the front and back panels flat.
Crinoline: This is a structured petticoat made to plump out a skirt of a gown popular in Victorian times. They were popular at the mid-19th century.
Petticoat: This is an underskirt worn under a skirt or a dress. Modern ones are made of layer after layer of tulle or netting.
Chemise/shift: A long underdress made of light material worn under the corset, kirtle and gown.
This portion of the gown covers from the shoulders to the hips/waist.
Bodice: This part is the where the gown covers area from the neck to the waist.
Halter Neck: The halter neck’s straps go up the shoulders and are fastened at the neck, exposing the shoulders and having a plunging neckline.
Plunging Neck: The neckline makes a V from the neck/shoulders in the direction of the navel.
Empire Line: This style was popular in the Napoleonic courts. The bodice ends below the bust line and here the skirt begins flowing.
Boat neckline: This neckline runs from one shoulder to the other like Meghan Markle’s wedding gown.
Sweetheart: This makes a loveheart shape over the bust.
Scooped: a round neckline
Square: a square neckline
Sheer: When a see-through piece of material is sewn over the top of the gown.
The sleeves of the gown are just as important as the rest of it. Again variations lead to a wider sense of imagination.
Cold Shoulder: The sleeves begins at the top of the shoulder while the rest drapes behind, allowing the arm to be seen through it. Also called Angel sleeve.
Batwing sleeve: This sleeve has a deeper area for the arm and tapers thinner toward the wrist. Also called a magyar.
Bell sleeve: The sleeve runs down the shoulder and flares out from the elbow
Bishop sleeve : This sleeve is loose from the arm but tight at the cuff.
Cap sleeve: This only covers the top of the shoulder.
Fitted point sleeve: The sleeve tapers tp the back of the back in a point.
Gigotor: This sleeve is wide at the upper part of the arm but narrows at the elbow and wrist.
Hanging sleeve: This sleeve that slits at the side or front or the elbow, allowing the arm to peak out. Popular in mediaeval times.
Juliet sleeve : This sleeve has a puff at the top and runs down the arm or leaves it bare. See Snow White.
Lantern sleeve: The top of the sleeve runs straight and then puffs out between wrist and elbow
Poet sleeve: This long sleeve is fitted tight at the shoulder to elbow flares at the elbow and wrist.
Wizard’s sleeve: This sleeve runs from shoulder to wrist opening there and draping toward the floor with points.
The shapes of the skirt vary. Try different shapes with your world to give a feeling of variety and depth.
A-line: This skirt flares out from the bodice with a gentle slope almost like the letter A.
Ballgown: This skirt stretches from the bodice in a wide shape. Think of the massive gowns on Big Fat Gypsy Wedding.
Bell Jar: Similar to the ballgown only the hem slightly goes in making it look like a bell.
Drop Waist Silhouette: This skirt begins below the hips from a loose seam. Most popular in 1920s.
Mermaid Silhouette: The gown is tight and fitting from the neck down to the knees of shins where is flares out like a fish’s tale.
Trumpet Silhouette: The skirt flares out from the mid thigh region.
High-Low skirt: the skirt is short at the front and long in the back. The mullet of gowns if you will.
Train: This is a sweep of material that trails behind the lady as she walks.
Examples of interesting historical gowns.
Sack-back gown or robe à la française: Popular in the 18th century. This style has the fabric gathered and streaming from the shoulders like a cape. The gown is open at the front to show the stomacher and petticoat. Here panniers will be worn, the wider the richer the lady. This gown often had ¾ length sleeves.
Robe à la polonaise: This is a gown with a skirt that is cutaway, draped and ruffled at the overskirt. It can also be fitted.
Robe à l'anglaise: Similar to the francaise, the back of the gown was pleated into a cape like train. The gown was open in front to show the petticoat and the sleeves reached the elbows.
Tudor Style: This gown has a square neckline which may or may not include a sheer. The sleeves an be fitted to elbow and then billow out, lined with fur or are fitted at the elbow and wrist, showing the chemise underneath.
Chiton: This dress is often seen in Roman or Greek art. The Doric version was made by draping material over the body and fastened at the shoulder by clasps The Ionic chiton version was draped about the body and pinned at the waist.
Civil War Gown: These gowns featured drop shoulder sleeves, had low necklines, and ridiculously voluminous skirts. All this had to have petticoats and crinoline to keep the shape.
Tea gown: These gowns were seen in 19th century clothes. They had little form or structure and were often made of light fabrics.
Russian court dress: This gown consisted of robes worn over a tablier, with a boat neckline and cold shoulder sleeves.
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