—THE BERTHA NECKLINE, A VISUAL STORY.
The bertha neckline (also known as the pleated bertha) was a type of bodice neckline which was fashionable in the mid 19th century. It consisted on a low-neckline heart-shaped or inverted triangular collar, which had deep furrows. Though the earliest semblance can be found in the decade of the 1820s, the fashion was consolidated in the 1830, and from then onwards, it was
Left: Portrait of a woman with a fan, by Ágoston Schöfft (undated, Biedermeier period) Right: Clara Novello, by Edward Novello (1833). The portraits seen above are two early artistic representations of the bertha neckline.
Left: Portrait of a young woman in a white and blue dress, by Leopold Fischer (1843). Right: Aleksandra Apraksina, by Vladimir Hau (1848). It would usually be adorned with brooches, lace berthas, floral adornments and ribbons.
Left: Louise Marie of Orléans, Queen of Belgium, by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (c. 1841). Right: Elisabeth of Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt, Princess of Lippe, by Joseph Karl Stieler. The bertha neckline usually was clasped at the height of the shoulder, beneath which the sleeve emerged.
Left: María Eugenia de Guzmán, Countess of Teba, by Federico de Madrazo y Kuntz (1849). Right: Sabina Seupham Spalding, by the same artist (1853). While puffs sleeves often accompanied the bertha neckline, there were also open lace, or short, frilly sleeves, like those in the Countess’ portrait. Due to the evening dress, long sleeves were seldom only used.
Left: Marie-Anne Walewska, by Édouard-Louis Dubufe (1859). Right: Manuelita Rosas, by Prilidiano Pueyrredón (1851). The bertha neckline could be more triangular in nature, as seen in the portrait of the Restaurador’s daughter, or follow a more natural, form-fitting shape. In this last instance, it was usually parted on the middle.
Left: Natalya Alexandrovna Pushkina, photographed in the 1850s. Right: Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione, photographed by Pierre-Louis Pierson (1860s).
A white bodice worn by Empress Eugénie de Montijo the day of assassination attempt led by Felice Orsini, January 1858. The bodice features the aforementioned bertha neckline and its trimmed with ivory-coloured lace.
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