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Notice: any blogs that follow me out of the blue with the default icon and an empty blog, without at least liking or reblogging something from me first, will be treated as spam bots.
i just realized i can post about this here so HELLO BINDER WEARERS AND THOSE WHO WOULD BIND IF NOT FOR THE COMPRESSION OF IT ALL
have you ever felt suffocated or been injured or otherwise struggled with your compression binder and gone "ohhhh yeah this is GREAT"
no? yeah neither did i so i did something about that
i designed what is essentially the halfway point between a binder and a bust bodice (for those not in the historical fashion circles, bust bodices are the thing that allowed the edwardians to create that extreme pigeon-bust silhouette). many people have seen corset-binders, which essentially do the same thing as compression binders but with better adjustability and significantly cooler aesthetics. mine is similar in technique, but it is boned only in the front, like a corset or a pair of stays, and elasticated in the back like a binder. what this does is build out a smoother chest shape with the rigid front while still allowing an easy stretch in the back. the point of it is to be loose enough to breathe easily and be wearable for longer stretches of time or during physically demanding activities.
this video is a tutorial on how to take your measurements, draft a pattern, put the thing together, and troubleshoot it so that it fits.
if you sew, have a friend who sews, or have a suitable amount of Crafter's Audacity to pick up something you've never done before and go "yeah i could probably make that," this one's for you
Upcoming patterns!
The Bestform bra ('30s-40s) is now available! Others will be done soon
the other two are up!
Overlock Stitch by @clothes_reetzy
Damn, that's useful
Finally a hand sewing tutorial on a hemline that isn't just the ladder stitch! the ladder stitch disappears when you tighten it, but it's not meant for hemlines because it breaks really easily! The overlock stitch is more stable, so it holds much longer, and it won't pucker or warp the fabric!
tags by @gallusrostromegalus
OH HELL THE FUCK YES
Tiktok post by @ wynunlimited.
With JoAnne Fabrics going out of business I feel it is my duty as a cosplayer, historical costumer, and general sewing gremlin to help teach y'all how not to be reliant on evil overpriced mediocre big box stores for fabric and cosplay supply, cause if I catch y'all going into Homophobia Lobby to get cosplay fabrics imma have to start throwing hands. And frankly you guys all deserve better.
- Find a neighborhood full of brown people. Probably a slightly poorer neighborhod. I know, I know, but they will have small independent fabric stores. Selection in each may vary. Hispanic and Caribbean areas will give you prints that EAT. Muslim areas will give you fabrics with amazing drapery. Indian and Southeast Asian areas will give you beading that would make the House of Worth wet with envy. (Try to avoid oldwhitelady quilting stores unless you are a knitter or are specifically trying to cosplay Kirsten Larson.) (Also ask while you're there for lunch/dinner spot recommendations. Your fabric store guy usually has a buddy with a joint nextdoor with the best *insert relevant ethnic food here* you'll ever put in your mouth.)
- DEVELOP A RELATIONSHIP WITH THE OWNER OF SAID STORE. This I cannot stress enough. Abdul, my fabric guy, can and will get me whatever I want cause he knows me, knows I bring in other young people, and knows I will be back every month for more. Indie fabric stores tend to have older clients. They are anxious to see faces under 60. Just chat with whoever is in there about the kind of stuff you want and need and they will help you. This also frequently leads to discounts. I have not paid listed price for fabric in years and just walked out of Abdul's with 7~ yards of gorgeous teal satin for 10 bucks. Not a yard. Total.
- Do not be afraid of mess. The best shit comes from stores that look like a hurricane went through them. Don't try to understand the organization. (One day, 4 years into your relationship with the store, suddenly the fabric gods will reveal the knowledge to you.) Again, talk to whoever is in there about your project. They'll help.
- Give up on one stop shopping. Get your crafting supplies elsewhere. Like a small independent hardware store. There's usually an old guy in there that reminds you of an uncle who will also help you.
-Worbla and whatever other Cosplay Specific Material you're using is a fatphobic material straight from Satan's hot taint, you do not need it, and any old hardware/tractor supply dad will help you find better, more durable armor/weapon/detailing material. Don't snub your nose at paper mache and plaster of paris. Venetian Mask makers have been using it for years. Balsa wood is also your friend. Hardware store Uncles will teach you to work with both.
- Elderly people are your bffs. If you see an old person TALK TO THEM. They know how to do all kinds of shit. I know there's a hesitation around old people because of the political climate and a fear that they may be homo/trans/whatever-phobic, but hey....minds are changed by making friends. My elderly Muslim fabric supplier is an Our Flag Means Death fan because of me gushing about the teal I needed for Stede Bonnet. He wishes me happy pride now. He put bolt of rainbow in the window in June and kept it up all summer. And he'd never had a thought about queers before me.
- Don't feel limited to Craft and Fabric stores. Hardware stores are cool. They stock outdoor fabrics and umbrella and furniture covers that are very durable....my first cosplay was made out of patio furniture covers. Also upholstery stores and upholsterers have velvets and damasks and faux leather and real leather and all sorts of rich textures. Most of them will part with a few yards pretty cheap. Second hand sheets and bedspreads and curtains also make some really cool garments. A significant amount of my ren fair garb started as household goods.
- If you are forced to order fabric online, please for the love of all that is holy DO NOT BUY FROM MOOD or any other famous store. You're paying for their branding and their place on certain reality shows I will not mention. Indie is always cheaper for the quality and usually not abusing their workers.
- If the fabric/hobby/hardware/upholstery/etc store you develop a relationship with is inconveniently far from you, see if said owner is willing to take your order via phone and send it to you. You'd be surprised how accommodating people in the crafting and sewing world can be.
It all really comes down to having to form a community. I know finding multiple small stores is a lot less convenient than Joannes. But forming a relationship with a local supplier will, in the long run, yield you much better results AND put money and good back into a community near you.
(And if you're in the NYC area DM me and I'll put you in contact with Abdul. He's the absolute best and I'd do anything to help him and his business grow!!!)
If you're in the Baltimore - Washington corridor let me tell you about African Eleganza in Beltsville
So a while back, McCall's put out this pretty decent commercial pattern for making lolita fashion. I've now made almost all views of the pattern (View D is a rectangle so I have not made that as I am already very well experienced in the realm of rectangles). View A (jumperskirt) is very good and view C (blouse) is also very good. YMMV on the skirt; I didn't like it.
Sadly, like all of the Cosplay by McCall's patterns, this one is out of print, and people are asking for like $90 for this pattern on the secondhand market. So, until someone scans all the pattern pieces and the instructions and zips them into a folder and sticks it on a google drive, this pattern will sadly be inaccessible to most people.
Bummer.
@thebestworstidea and @wordswithkittywitch
Book announcement! đ Since 2023, I have been working on a book along with more than a dozen other fashion historians and museum professionals, and it is OUT!!!!
âĄď¸ http://vernonpress.com/book/2345 ⏠ď¸
I will be doing a giveaway when I get my extra copy, so keep an eye out for that post!! â¤ď¸ It is a BIG book, chock-full of essays on bodily and cultural representation in fashion museums/exhibits/collections - I contributed a chapter about fat representation, and Iâm proud to say that we also covered topics including Palestinian, Filipino, Mexican, Indigenous, and Nigerian clothing; disability; body idealism; Queer identity; and more, mostly in American (from Canada to Peru!) museum contexts.
đ IF you canât buy it yourself and are connected with a library or university, weâd massively appreciate if you could let your institution know that youâre interested in reading it so that they can add it to their collection! đ Weâd like this to be a useful reference going forward for anyone interested in learning more about the state of collections and representation. Many of these authors publish in other formats as well, but we know how important it is to have a citable book! <3
â¤ď¸ Contributors include tatreezandtea / thetatreezinstitute angelacrenshaw michelle.korinna thefashionarchive_ua wonnescrayen / practize.fashion laurabelru milana_renestew sandramgr georgina_ripley_curator museumtextiles / camillebreeze emmamcclendon and fatfashionhistory.
+ And many thanks to several more amazing people: saruzzza for writing the foreward and stylesquared , Julia Petrov, and sarahbendall_dresshistory for testimonials! â¤ď¸
Someone asked for a visual of how I prep yardages of fabric for washing, and I went, "Sure, I have work I need to procrastinate from anyway." đ
In case it's useful:
fauxbubuning round 1: purple
These are all what i've been thinking of was "box cake" fauxbubu/lafufu: heavily embellished fakes.
A little dragon for a friend's (dragon-mad) daughter! Cut and sewn alongside Snaidhros (and a yet-unsewn fauxbubu), using a pattern from CholyKnight on etsy. I also used one of their machine embroidery designs for the eyes, but I'm chalking up the suboptimal results to a combo of some tweaks I made to the design and the long pile on this fabric. I have compensated with sequins and rhinestones and I think she will forgive me.
(I also used the wing pieces from the pattern to make prosthetic wings for one of her older toys, a "wingless dragon" that had been foolishly marketed as a dinosaur.)
This fuck it up Friday, i would like to introduce my favorite fuckup:
Snaidhros Snaiylafinwe
(Wuth huge thanks to @pastelsugar6w6 for popping up with art to remind me of snaildhros just as I bought a snail plush pattern for a different project, and also @sesamenom for their previous and also very inspirational art. Alas I have done neither design justice, but that's why it's a fuck it up Friday project.)
Just for the record, this is the pattern I used: https://www.etsy.com/listing/792867507/jester-the-snail-pdf-plush-digital
Which I would recommend! Turning and stuffing the head and shell were fiddly, and I would strongly recommend a pair of forceps for it, but that's just the nature of the shapes (and to some extent plush sewing) and not inherent to the pattern design so much as the shape of the animal.
Doing some initial brainstorming for possible silmaril-inspired fauxbubus and it's all @nighttimepatrons's fault!
I've already ordered faceplates and hands with other fauxbubu aspirations from this etsy seller, and i do not lack for glitter, sequins, and rhinestones for those parts, so I'm mostly thinking about fabric options:
Iridescent Ice Velvet Fabric with Metallic Dotted Foil mystique. Foggy metallic velvet. Ice Velvet Fabric base Four-way stretch metallic vel
This Fabric item by AlexLAFabrics has 352 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Huntington Park, CA. Listed on Mar 31, 2025
This Fabric item by AlexLAFabrics has 2278 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Huntington Park, CA. Listed on Jun 28, 2025
This Fabric item by PrimeFabricsInc has 98 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Los Angeles, CA. Listed on Jun 29, 2025
This Fabric item by AlexLAFabrics has 565 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Huntington Park, CA. Listed on May 24, 2025
The real question is: should I go with the traditional body shape, or something more novel? Should they be long silmbubu? Star-shaped perhaps? Or maybe I should just make them as heads, without bodies at all. đ¤
Exploratory surgery has begun.
I bring you gladsome tidings of a woman who needle-felts creatures from the Luttrell Psalter.
That is all.
A minor stress of yarncrafts which I don't see discussed much:
There is a small tangle in your yarn. Topologically you know it must be a slipknot; if you give it a good firm tug, it should come undone.
Just how much force are you willing to stake on that?
Doing some initial brainstorming for possible silmaril-inspired fauxbubus and it's all @nighttimepatrons's fault!
I've already ordered faceplates and hands with other fauxbubu aspirations from this etsy seller, and i do not lack for glitter, sequins, and rhinestones for those parts, so I'm mostly thinking about fabric options:
Iridescent Ice Velvet Fabric with Metallic Dotted Foil mystique. Foggy metallic velvet. Ice Velvet Fabric base Four-way stretch metallic vel
This Fabric item by AlexLAFabrics has 352 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Huntington Park, CA. Listed on Mar 31, 2025
This Fabric item by AlexLAFabrics has 2278 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Huntington Park, CA. Listed on Jun 28, 2025
This Fabric item by PrimeFabricsInc has 98 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Los Angeles, CA. Listed on Jun 29, 2025
This Fabric item by AlexLAFabrics has 565 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Huntington Park, CA. Listed on May 24, 2025
The real question is: should I go with the traditional body shape, or something more novel? Should they be long silmbubu? Star-shaped perhaps? Or maybe I should just make them as heads, without bodies at all. đ¤
look. hereâs the thing. If you have a relative or family friend or some such who does a craft/hobby/skill that youâve âalways wanted to learnâ you should ask them about it. Your grandma does embroidery and you want to learn? Sit down one day, or call her, or write a letter, or something, and say âI am interested in learning this craft.â Thereâs basically zero chance that Uncle Francis is gonna refuse to teach you about his model ships. Grandma is THRILLED to show you her quilting. Ms Barbara from the church bake sale WILL teach you how to make the fudge that made her second husband propose.
your friends and contemporaries are also a tremendous resource, and you should ask them too! But thereâs just no replacement for the expertise of someone who has been knitting for sixty years. Part of this, also, is that older crafters can often give you materials to help you start, and your broke millennial friends usually canât. My mom has more wool than she will ever use in her life, and she knows it. When one of my friends wanted to start knitting, my mom just gave her this gorgeous silver handspun yarn sheâd made but wasnât attached to. Yarn like that is expensive! Handspun yarn from someone who has been spinning for thirty years doesnât often happen to beginners! And starting with good materials is better than starting with bad, because it helps you develop taste and a sense of quality more quickly.
Experienced crafters are often able to help you avoid learning bad or damaging habitsâas a teenager, my sewing teacher spent a lot of time teaching me how to do things so that I didnât get repetitive stress injuries (like she did). Theyâre going to be able to lend you books, send you ancient angelfire html pages with the most exacting instructions on earth, show you the good places to get crafting supplies that arenât am*zon.
But you have to ask. Do not wait until these people are dead, and then say âI wish I knew.â You have to do it now, while you can.