Someone asked how I do the glowy thing, soooo, here’s some how to do the glowy thing in Manga Studio. :3
For more tutorials, please check out my Patreon to help keep me funded.

gracie abrams
todays bird
The Stonewall Inn
Cosimo Galluzzi

Game Changer & Make Some Noise
Mike Driver
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2025 on Tumblr: Trends That Defined the Year
official daine visual archive

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Not today Justin
Monterey Bay Aquarium

❣ Chile in a Photography ❣

Kiana Khansmith

shark vs the universe

#extradirty
The Bowery Presents
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RMH
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@selenyaaa
Someone asked how I do the glowy thing, soooo, here’s some how to do the glowy thing in Manga Studio. :3
For more tutorials, please check out my Patreon to help keep me funded.
Okay so I followed this video about foreshortening and…
Sycra. I love you so much for making this video.
guys
GUYS
SHIT
SHIT GUYS
reblogging againg because holy cow, this HELPS
I’ll just have to watch this soon
I SERIOUSLY REBLOG THIS EVERTIME IT’S ON MY DASH! IT’S SO HELPFUL!!
Sycra is really great you guys. Ya’ll should subscribe to his youtube channel if you want more cool art tutorials!
@abuginthesystem @moddinginfinity
Anatomy Tutorials, by DerSketchie
Hand Pose - Champagne Glass by Melyssah6-Stock
Just a quick tip to artists
If you’re an artist who likes to work really close, (like me), do yourself a favor and put up two views. You can do this by clicking View–> New on your toolbar.
There’s nothing worse than finally zooming out and realizing what you were doing was very wrong. This saved me a lot of grief tbh. I’m sure everyone knows this already but ._.;; I arrived quite late to that party.
WHAT
That’s amazing..
Does this work for Photoshop?
For Photoshop you’ll wanna go to Window > Arrange > New Window for [Document].
BRINGING THIS BACK BECAUSE YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW HELPFUL THIS HAS BEEN. This will save you hours and hours of backtracking (fixing a thing close up, zooming back out and realizing that the thing you fixed doesn’t work with the rest of the picture–rinse and repeat). As someone who uses the ‘squint and see if it looks right’ method of drawing anatomy, the tiny window is a goddamned life saver.
for my artsy followers
Couple Poses Row 1, 2 (Left), 5 & 6 by Justin R. Martin Row 2 (Right) Row 3 Row 4
Guess who finna be in OTP hell tomorrow. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Someone asked about my Paint Tool Sai brushes! Here’s a little info about them and how I use them to to paint and stuff~! I hope this is helpfulll, ahhh. Also sorry about my atrocious handwriting. ;| Download // Tip Jar
Great Reference , a good hand how to draw is always needed ^_^ But, the thing is I MUST draw it for real :/
weibo.com
High Heels Row 1: Left Right Row 2 Row 3: Left, Right Row 4: (Source Unknown) Row 5 Row 6
Why Krita is Awesome: A Collection of Reasons Why This Program is Worth Taking a Look At
Krita is a painting program that has been around for a while, and in the last few years, underwent major changes and improvements. Because of these improvements, many artists are using it not just because it is free, but because it offers amazing features. These are by no means all of the great things Krita has to offer, but simply some of my favorite features of the program.
1. The Brush Engines.
Yes, engines. As in plural. There are many. And they all do different things. There is no way you could possibly capture all of its possibilities with one screen shot, but here are just some of the possibilities. Along side standard round, square, and shape, and textured brushes, there are brushes that smear, blend, and create interesting abstract strokes. There are brushes for filters, and one of my favorites, the Experiment Brush, which is basically a pre-filled lasso tool.
Brushes also support weighted smoothing, or brush stabilizers.
This is incredibly useful for line art. And while I do not usually use this feature, it is something that I feel many programs are lacking, such as Photoshop.
But its brushes aren’t the only thing about Krita with variety.
2. Color Selector Customization.
Whether you prefer something basic, or something more complicated, Krita will likely have what youre looking for. You are not likely to find yourself missing your other program’s color wheels. There are even more options than this, and other color selectors.
Gotta love that customization.
Krita also has some great naviation tools.
3. On the fly rotation, zoom, and brush sizing.
With krita, zooming, rotating, and brush size scaling are all smooth, and dynamic with the use of hot keys. These are features I miss when in other programs. To zoom, Ctrl+Middle mouse button, hover over the screen to zoom in and out. The same with shift rotates (press the ‘5’ key to reset rotation). Holding down shift and draging your brush on the canvas dynamically changes its size, allowing you to see the change, and get the exact size you want without brackets. Brackets also work, if that’s what you are used to. Krita also has highly customizable hot keys.
4. The Pop Up Pallet
The pop up pallet is a set of your 10 favorite brushes (which you can edit), and a built in color wheel that appears when you right click on the canvas. It is incredibly useful for switching between those few brushes that you use in almost every picture.
5. Real time, seamless tiles creation.
Pressing the W key in Krita will infinitely tile your canvas, and allow you to work real time on simple to complex tiled images. You can zoom in and out to see how your tiles work form a distance, and paint freely to create seamless artwork easily, without having to check using filters and manually tiling. Very usefull for patterns, backgrounds, and games.
6. The Symmetry Tool
This one goes without saying, Krita supports both horizontal and vertical symmetry, along with a brush that is capable of radial symmtry with as many directions as you like.
Go nuts, kid.
There are many more reasons why this program is awesome. And it is only going to get more awesome. And the coolest thing about it, is that it is 100% free. So go check it out! There’s nothing to lose. Krita isn’t for everyone, it can be hard to get the hang of, and it is not meant for photo editing, it is a program completely focused on digital painting from start to finish.
Give it a go and see if Krita is the program for you.
@deebott @pantheon-for-a-muse you draw and all so I thought of you guys 😘
I’m getting it today
@nerdyfanboy53 recommended this program to me but I had no idea if could do all this
Laying down the groundwork for future tutorials on the subject. Support me on patreon for weekly psds and videos! http://www.patreon.com/doxydoo
Full size here http://mldoxy.deviantart.com/art/Shiny-Things-446808360
Adventures in printing Part 2. It’s really long because there’s no easy way to explain these things. Today we look at some printing terms and how to size your files for print! Part 1 (Colourspace) here, and Part 3 (Making InDesign PDFs) here.
artist tips
don’t save as jpeg
as a former yearbook editor and designer, let me explain this further
if youre only planning on posting your art online, them please save it as .png ;this is also better for transparencies as well
BUT
please, if youre planning of printing your art, NEVER use png. it makes the quality of the image pretty shitty. use jpeg or pdf instead. and always set your work at 300dpi to get a better printing quality - this means, the images are crisper and sharper and theres no slight blurriness. i had a talk with my friend who is currently taking design, and pdf is much better to use when youre working with a bigger publishing company because it still has the layers intact, but if youre only planning on printing your stuff at staples or at some small publishing store, the jpeg is the way to go.
this has been a public service announcement
I’ve replied to this once before but I see it’s doing the rounds again.
This is all utter bullshit.
I’m sorry but if your qualification is working on the school yearbook, you have no qualifications. Do not pretend otherwise. As a former professional photo manipulator for advertising brochures, I can say that you’re not comparing apples to oranges here - if anything, you’re comparing fruit to farmyard machinery:
JPEG is a lossy format. It is suitable for web imagery because it sacrifices detail for reduced file sizes, but in doing so it introduces artifacts that weren’t in the original; if you load a JPEG for editing, then save it as a different JPEG, then you’re adding more artifacts formed from those first artifacts. Do this often enough and you end up with a horrid glitchy mess that looks like a puddle’s reflection after a stone’s been thrown in. You’ve seen those memes that have 3 or 4 different “found at” tags along the bottom, that look like fingerpainted copies of the original? That’s why.
PNG is a lossless format that comes in two primary flavours, PNG-8 and PNG-24, which use 8 and 24 bit colour respectively. 8-bit colour is what you have in GIFs, a limit of just 256 different colours in a predetermined palette, usually automatically chosen by your software when saving. These files will look the same as GIFs, potentially with large patches of solid colour instead of the usual gradual shading seen in 24-bit imagery. This is usually better for small banners or pixel art, as it can yield smaller filesizes than GIF format. (There is an animated version called MNG but it has very little web support, hence the continued use of GIFs.)
PNG-24 is great for larger images where detail is as important as colour depth, as well as printable RGB images and (if supported by the client) full colour images with gradient transparencies. It most certainly does not make “the quality of the image pretty shitty,” as it preserves every nuance. File sizes can be smaller than JPEG for small images, or significantly larger for large images.
PDF is a container file, whatever you put into it will be pretty much preserved as it was, so you gain nothing but lose nothing.
TIFF is what you need to be using for archival or print-quality imagery. It has support for multiple layers, multiple colour channels (RGB as well as CMYK, which is essential for accurate print rendering), and everything is preserved exactly as it was seen on-screen when being composed. There are compressed versions available, they use similar methods to PNG in order to maintain detail without sacrifice; next to whatever your graphics program uses natively, this is the most interchangeable format available for professional use.
DPI is important only when used in combination with image dimensions; in and of itself it serves no purpose. If you make a brilliantly detailed 640x480 image & set it to 300dpi, you’ll receive a brilliantly detailed 2 inch x 1.6 inch print. This is great if you want to make a postage stamp, but not if you’re creating an A4 flyer! Determine the image’s dimension then set the DPI accordingly; 72dpi isn’t hideous especially for text-heavy work (it’s ~3 pixels per millimeter), and 150dpi can be suitable for many images. Unless you’re interested in photo realism, 300dpi is usually overkill - for our hypothetical A4 flyer, you’d need a file of 2490x3510 pixels for edge to edge printing, with a correspondingly high memory requirement and filesize even if using a compressed format.
Keeping the layers intact is utterly unimportant for print work unless you want to use a separated colour print method that requires multiple passes to lay down each ink. If you send a file with all the layers, masks, etc. off for printing you’re liable to get it sent back unactioned, as they won’t want to take responsibility for choosing the wrong elements for printing. Save your work with everything intact, then save a flattened copy especially for printing purposes - this is one of the reasons Save Copy As… is a common option in graphics manipulation software.
This has been a Public Service Rebuttal.
FUCKING THANK YOU
As a designer who’s worked a few years for a newspaper, I cannot begin to tell you how much OP’s post (edit: response, technically) made me cringe. I would have killed to get a photo as a TIFF for once instead of having to tear apart PDFs only to find a 50x100px 72dpi shitty JPEG inside for the 5 millionth time…
JPEG and PNG are best suited for web formats (and it is perfectly fine to save your web version as JPEG, that’s what it’s goddamn for). You will make a designer cry if you send a web-safe JPEG for print, however. And if you have a vectorized logo saved as EPS (or even better, AI), you will make that designer’s year.
Hello, I read your "About me" selection to make sure you haven't done this tutorial before I asked. I'm having major problems with side view lips. My lips always end up looking like The Simpsons lips. (Google it if you don't know the show to know what I'm talking about) It's Terrible because I can't seem to understand how to draw them on both Males and Females. Can you please help guide me on how to draw them? (If you have time)
Omg dear this is a really difficult thing you are asking to me because I’m not a lips expert ;w; I’ll do my best! I even did gifs OHOH it’s the first time, I hope they explains better than my writing.Lips are not ‘round’ as simpsons one, quoting you. They have more like a smoothed triangular aspect, like a cone with a round tip.Of course it depends the style you are using when drawing lips, most anime-manga/cartoonish styles uses just a line for the lips and I do use a more complicated but still simple style for the lips I draw. For example, I do draw the lower part of the cupid’s bow, I don’t think it has a proper name, so I’m showing you:
When I’m drawing and coloring males, I don’t color the lips because my style isn’t realistic so I don’t bother. That’s why the cupid’s bow isn’t showing (and in non-realistic styles I find it really annoying if it’s only drew, like in certain mangas, for example)
Time to show you how I draw lips. First example, the normal smiling side view lips
As you can see the lips are little curves and it’s not necessary that the side lips have to touch the line. Also, look at the third arrow, the line between the lips is more curved because of the under cupid’s bow. An opened mouth is different, since the inside of the mouth or the teeth divide the lips:
The smiling mouth:
Normal closed mouth, no smiling:
I am sorry, I hope it helps ;__; I didn’t even know where to start explaining! Anyway you can try to search on deviantart for more accura tutorials ;v;
A quick tutorial on how I paint (mostly angular) shaped objects in a BG.
I SWEAR TO FUCKING GOD BOB ROSS IS A GIFTED GOD I DREW ALONG TO HIS VIDEO IN MS PAINT AND
HOW
THE
FUCK
THIS MADE ME SO HAPPY I DONT EVEN KNOW HOW PLEASE I ADVISE YOU GUYS TO DRAW ALONG WITH BOB ROSS IN MS PAINT IT IS AN EXPERIENCE I AM SO CONFUSED BUT PLEASED FUCKING DO IT
Bob Ross teaches you using layering and color theory, which are principles which work no matter what you paint with. Some materials won’t blend the same as oils obviously, but as Ross himself said, “you can paint with almost anything.”
Paint along with whatever you have, it’s great practice.