Lace fabric
Thick smooth elastic (2.5cm or 1 inch wide)
Thin smooth elastic (1cm or half inch)
Bra Clasp
Pattern Template
Scissors
Pins
Sewing Machine
How to:
1. Print the above pattern (same one I used for this project) on A4 paper and cut out your pattern pieces and pin them to your lace. Place the straight edge of the pattern along the edge of your scalloped lace. Cut out the pieces along the curved side and along the bottom but not along the straight edge as you want to keep your scalloped lace edge.
2. Cut out 2 pairs (4 piece of lace in total) It’s important to try to make the lace patterns to be identical on both sides so that it looks symmetrical once it is made.
3. Pin the curved edges of the patterns together
4. Sew along the curved edge leaving a seam allowance.
5. Repeat for both sides
6. Measure how much elastic you will need by taking your thick elastic and wrapping it around yourself under your bust. Stretch the elastic as you do this. Don’t make it too long as it need it to be slightly tighter for support.
7. Take your thick elastic and line it up with the edge of your scalloped edge. Measure the width of the elastic (2cm) and measure double that amount from the edge of the scalloped edge (i.e.. 4cm.) When you cut out the bottom piece, make sure it is the same length as the top piece and that the lace scalloped edge is centred and symmetrical.
8. Place the bottom half of the lace on the thick elastic with equal lengths of elastic on either side. Wrap the lace around the thick elastic and pin it in place.
9. Then pin the top half of the bralette to the thick elastic on the same side.
10. Sew along the elastic and lace with a 1cm seam from the edge of the elastic.
11. Take your claps and slide them onto the ends of your elastic. Make sure they are both facing the right direction so that they will match up. Wrap the elastic around the back of the clasp and pin in place. Sew along the elastic to secure the clasp. Repeat for both sides.
12. Try the bralette on and measure how much thin elastic you will need for the straps. Pin and sew the straps to the inside of the top of the bralette and to where the strap meets around the back on the thick elastic.
Supplies Needed: 1. Mix and match fabric (see pattern piece sizes and cut amounts below)2. Thread to match3. 1 1/2 yards bias tape4. About 2 yards 1" wide polyester straps (length depends on how long you want the straps and handle)5. A pair of magnetic snaps6. Four 1" metal D-rings.
Notes on what materials I used: I used duck cloth for the main body of my bag (the oatmeal and yellow fabric), if you choose to use a lighter-weight fabric you may want to add interfacing - even mine would have benefited from it although it's fine. The geometric fabric I used on the flap is a vintage scrap I had on hand. Since it was a little bit see-through I backed it with a piece of duck cloth, otherwise you would have been able to see the magnetic snap backing through it. The bias tape is faux-leather. I bought all of the supplies (other than the geometric fabric) at Joann Fabrics.
1. Cut out pattern pieces in the fabric(s) of your choice.
- Cut four 13"x16" pieces. They will be the main body of the backpack, two for the outside and two for the lining. On my backpack they are the oatmeal-colored fabric.
- Cut three 13"x9" pieces. One of them will be the front pocket, on my backpack it is in yellow, and the other two will be the front and back of the flap, on my backpack they are in geometric print and yellow.
- Cut two 4"x5" pieces. These are the loops on either side to hold the D-rings. On my backpack they are in yellow.
- Cut one 9"x6 1/2" piece, or simply fold the 13"x9" piece in half. This is the inside pocket, and the size may be altered depending on how big or small you would like the pocket. On my backpack it is in yellow on the inside.
2. Sew bias along top of outer pocket piece. Baste sides and bottom to right-side of outer front piece.
3. Take the loop pieces and fold them in half to form a crease down the middle, open it up then fold each side to the middle crease, then fold entire piece in half so only the ends are raw edges. Top stitch around all four sides. Put two metal D-rings on each loop and baste ends together. Baste finished loops to front piece on top of the front pocket facing in as pictured, 4 inches up from the bottom.
4. Using a protractor, round the bottom edges of the two flap pieces 2" up and over.
5. Baste front and back flap pieces wrong-sides together, leaving the top open. Sew bias around sides and bottom.
6. Following the directions on the back of the magnetic snap packaging, insert the top half (or 'male' portion) where you would like them inside the flap, making sure they are on the bottom, or underside of the flap. Baste the top of the flap closed.
7. Baste handle and straps to the top of the right-side of the outer back piece. (Note: after I took these pictures I decided to move my straps in more as you may notice on the finished bag).
8. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew flap across the top of the outer back piece, right-sides together. Press seam up.
9. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew outer front and outer back pieces right-sides together around sides and bottom. Place the straps in the middle to avoid sewing them into the seams. Also make sure not to sew up onto the flap at the top of both sides - the front piece will be longer than the back piece at the top (see pictures), so you will be left with a little flap on front. Back-stitch when you go over the loops and bias of the front pocket to make them more secure. Flip bag right-side out and press all seams.
(Note: I changed my seam allowance to 1/4" after these pictures were taken in order to widen the bag, the pictures show a 1/2" seam allowance).
10. Add the bottom half (or 'female') portion of the magnetic snaps on the outer front piece where they need to be in order to match up with the top.
11. Add bias along the top of inside pocket. Iron the sides and bottom under. You can use a fabric pen and ruler to add lines for pockets, pencil slots, etc. as wanted. Sew onto right-side of back lining piece, back-stitching at the top of each line.
12. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew front and back lining pieces right-sides together. Turn right-side out, press seams.
13. Add 1 1/2" gussets to both outside bag and lining bag bottom corners. To do this turn the bags wrong-side out again, place your hand into the corner and flatten the corner into a triangle with the seam running down the middle. Using a ruler measure 1 1/2" from the point where the seams meet down each side and draw a line straight across. Sew along this line. Press seam. You may also tack them down if you'd like, but don't cut them off as they will help give shape and substance to the bottom of your backpack.
14. You now have an outer bag and inner lining bag. With right-sides together and the fronts and backs matched up (meaning the back of the outer bag is matched up to the back of the lining bag), stuff the outer bag into the lining bag, making sure the seam allowance of the flap is up. Using a 1/2"seam allowance, sew around the top leaving about a 6" opening along the front.
15. Pull the outer bag out of the lining bag through the opening, and then flip the lining bag right-side out. Stuff the lining bag into place inside the outer bag.
16. Press the top seam, and hand stitch opening closed. Remove any baste stitches that may be showing along the seams.
17. Last, hem strap ends to prevent fraying. Thread them through the D-rings, adjusting length to fit.
The finished backpack measures about 12" wide by 15" tall and about 2 1/4" deep.
Two metal hooks , 2 small rings and 5 medium rings
Process:
1. Cut two rectangles of leather the size you prefer for your backpack. Mine, measures are 39cm wide x 48cm high. Also cut another smaller rectangle to make an outside pockets (optional)
2. Sew the zipper joining the two rectangles.
3. Open the zipper and sew one side of the rectangles together. Position the pocket on the outside in middle of the seam and sew on.
4. Sew a piece of thick ribbon in the middle of the seam with a ring .
5. Sew the two free sides on the inside and sew two long strips of thick ribbon in the joining seam. At each end tip of the ribbon sew two rings.
6. Close the bottom of the backpack joining the seams from both sides in the middle. (this will form two triangles)
7. Open both bottom corners and sew a small ring in each corner.
8. Now you can attach the hooks to the rings of the corners. Sew another strip with the hook to use this as a regulator.
9. If you want to give your backpack a better look inside, you can sew a lining (just cut two rectangles with the same measures from the two rectangles of the backpack). Attach it to the edge of the opening of the bag with some hand stitchings.
The DIY backpack is done!
You can cross the straps in the corners using the hook to give the backpack a different volume.
In this photo you can see how introducing the backpacks straps through the upper ring will hide the zipper in a fold.
