#endyma

[endymagarments]

#HelmutLang Jeans S/S 1997: Cafe racer jacket with cock ring in undyed pig leather. Inspired by classic 1950s biker silhouettes, this piece is crafted from leather that has been tanned but not coloured. Nearly all leathers we see on clothing are coloured during or after their tanning process; the ‘unfinished’ treatment seen here produces an unusual neutral colour with subtle shade variations. The leather’s interesting surface complements the classic design, featuring a short adjustable collar, the label’s signature interior square pocket and reversed waist tabs. The iconic cock ring found in early Helmut Lang Jeans garments decorates the shoulder. Runway photo from S/S 1995 where an earlier version of this design sans ring was presented. #endyma #helmutlang #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpS_bBANCP9/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

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Helmut Lang.

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[chvnhell]

[endymagarments]

Finally got to work on this early #DirkBikkembergs leather jacket, from 1989 if I remember correctly. Restoring a garment invites you to discover its details: Asymmetric panels, wild topstitching and subtle flourishes of weird scattered throughout the design make it a real stand out. In my opinion, #Bikkembergs is one of the most important menswear designers of their generation. Their work was complex, generous and beyond fashionable. Did I mention the western tassels? #endyma #endymaarchive #yeehaw (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CZSkYyEN92d/?utm_medium=tumblr

[endymagarments]

A leather bomber jacket by Kostas Murkudis for New York Industrie from around 2002. The design is based on the Luftwaffe's (German Air Forces) classic pilot jacket, with its distinctive high collar and zipped pockets. Its structured lamb leather shell has an antique polished finish which has developed pronounced contrasts from wear reminiscent of denim fading. The jacket is beautifully finished with a padded interior and heavy brass hardware. #endyma #kostasmurkudis #newyorkindustrie #bomberjacket (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CoIALCCN2ah/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[endymagarments]

'Helmut Lang. […] What he did went far beyond inventing a casual-formal, elegant-subversive uniform—things to wear every day that emitted confidence, centeredness, and sexiness. It was more than that. Everyone who packed his shows felt it […] in Paris, and later, New York. The audience got it. The models embodied it. Nobody voiced it, but everyone knew: It was the coming of age of the cool. - @sarahmower_, 2015 This #HelmutLang tank top from S/S 1997 captures the purity and confidence of the label’s design ethos. Its traditional sleeveless silhouette is realised in extrafine mercerised cotton jersey. A semi-detached application in contrasting hot pink nylon creates a refined but graphic point of interest. The design achieves a streamlined yet unconventionally decorative result that sits somewhere between an everyday wardrobe staple and a high-fashion showpiece. #endyma #helmutlang #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpX_gqVNdcj/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[endymagarments]

Helmut Lang’s S/S 1993 collection featured several varations of the iconic ‘sacred heart’ print, as seen in our previous post. The collection definitely had a thing for religious iconography. Also seen here: The seasonal campaign by #DagmarSucrowBarthel with photos by #ElfieSemotan, scanned from i-D magazine’s February and March 1993 issues, as well as a fantastic editorial photo from i-D June 1993. Thanks to everyone who sent us these scans (I forgot, please comment to be credited) #endyma #helmutlang #helmulangarchive #helmutlangvintage #vintagehelmutlang (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CmhIIxZNZ4Q/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[endymagarments]

One for the heads: #Sabotageby #PaulHarvey circa 1993. This is quite a find: Sabotage might be the first tech-wear label ever and Harvey later changed the game at Stone Island & CP Company. The idea of a sweater that has been distressed to the point of no return might seem a little obvious nowadays. Except, this is the very first time this concept was done. Allegedly the distressing was done to imitate the effects of a shotgun. 🌞 Upon taking a closer look, we can see that the execution of this piece is fantastic. Extra heavy loopback jersey on the outside and thick camo-print waffle knit on the inside make it reversible. Wide cropped body, dropped shoulders and long arms make it look like it was designed a moment ago. Permanent! #endyma #endymaarchive (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdn8wpGNVgW/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=