#guimpe

[chic-a-gigot]

Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 30, vol. 36, 26 juillet 1914, Paris. Coton à Broder C-B "A La Croix" Cartier-Bresson. 1, 2, 4. Guimpe avec col, en mosaïque de dentelle et de broderie. 3. Parements assortis. 5. Mouchoir en madère. La toilette élégante des enfants : robes, tabliers et bavoirs. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

1, 2, 4. Guimpe avec col, en mosaïque de dentelle et de broderie. — Plus que jamais en faveur, est la guimpe avec le col Médicis assorti, mosaïque curieuse de dentelle, d’entre-deux, de petits plis et de broderie. C’est le moment de sortir des cartons ces trésors d’antan qui semblaient vouloir y sommeiller éternellement. Nos jectrices peuvent varier à loisir la disposition des motifs; ceux-ci sont bâtis â l’envers sur un papier fort ou une lustrine, de même que les entre deux et la dentelle, pour être ensuite assemblés à points de surjet très fin. Aux personnes qui ne possèdent aucun document, nous procurerons l’ouvrage dessiné, dont quelques motifs sur linon, d’autres sur point d'esprit, pour être brodés, les uns au plumetis, les autres en anglaise avec du Coton à Broder C. B. « A La Croix » Cartier-Bresson, no. 6, l'écheveau 0 fr. 10. La figuret 1 représente l’ensemble delà guimpe et des poignets; la figure 2, la moitié, au col en grandeur naturelle et la figure 4, la moitié de la guimpe. Nous vendons cette dernière montée, garnie du col et dessinée sur linon fil avec le tulle : 9 fr. 35.

3. Parements assortis. — Le travail est donné par moitié, en grandeur naturelle. Nous vendons ces parements montés et dessinés : 3 fr. 75 la paire. Cette guimpe est donnée en première page de ce numéro.

5. Mouchoir en madère. — Dont le bord extérieur des œillets est festonné et le bord intérieur cordonné. Ce mouchoir, dessiné sur batiste fil et jouré, coûte : 0 fr. 95. Ces ouvrages sont vendus franco contre mandat. Délai de livraison : quinze jours.

La toilette élégante des enfants : robes, tabliers et bavoirs. — Primes du No. 32, du Petit Echo de la Broderie. Voir, dans ce numéro, ces ouvrages en plus grand avec prix, explications et dimensions.

[professorpski]

Dramatic Diamond: Sew Chic’s Imperial Jacket

Sew Chic offers modern patterns inspired by vintage looks. Thus, you get modern pattern sizing and more attention to the cut and the details. Many eras had shorter, shaped jackets--some of my favorites are from the 1930s, and you can see Spencer jackets in all the Jane Austen movies. Here we have one designed to enhance an hourglass figure.

This pattern comes with several options including a double-breasted vest or jacket with or without a draped collar. The front of the jacket has modified princess seams which should make it easier to fit, and the back has multiple darts. The sleeves are two-piece, but there are no pockets despite the flaps. So lots of options, but the jacket with the collar that you see up top has the loveliest and most dramatic of lines. A perfect evening look. The vest done without the collar would be good for a workday precisely because it tones down the drama.

You might wear the jacket alone, no blouse, over a long skirt for daring look. But if you would rather not show that much skin, you need to be careful to choose something to harmonize with the diamond shape of the neckline and the drape of the collar. A very fine sweater might work, but I think bringing the guimpe back to life might work best. The guimpe was a sheer, fitted, short blouse out of lace or net, often with a high collar that hugged the neck, worn in the 1910s underneath dresses in order to deal with very revealing necklines. Being sheer, it is flirty all the same.

The fabrics recommended include taffeta and shantung, brocades, all very fancy, or wools like boucle. This looks like a nice velveteen in a rich red. And the 3 large buttons would need to be chosen wisely to enhance whatever fabric you settle on.

This one is definitely going on my shopping list, and you can find it here: https://sewchicpatterns.com/product/ln1925-imperial-jacket-or-vest/

[chic-a-gigot]

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 Août 1884, 13e Année, No. 660

Artist: E. Cheffer; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Two women in an interior in Méry dresses. Left: suit in green voile, shimmering silk and chenille embroidery. The guimpe is covered with embroidery. The bottom of the sleeves are decorated with a lace cuff and small drapery of changeant silk. Right: wool, genre canevas, and garnet velvet gown. According to the caption: 'toilettes' by Mme. Mery. Below are some lines of advertising text for various products. Print from the fashion magazine Revue de la Mode (1872-1913). Detailed description of the clothing on pages 269 and 270 "PLANCHE COLORIÉE".

[chic-a-gigot]

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 février 1884, 13e annee, No. 634

Print maker: A. Chaillot; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Two women by a fireplace, in Maison Duboys dresses. Left: green velvet and white lace gown. Pointy velvet bodice with a lace guimpe. Right: Plain red silk and silk striped with chenille. With a few lines of advertising text for various products. Print from the fashion magazine Revue de la Mode (1872-1913). Detailed description of the clothing on page 60 "PLANCHE COLORIÉE".

[chic-a-gigot]

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 juin 1883, 12e annee, No. 599

Artist: P. Deferneville; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Two women and a girl walking along a lake, in the background a country house. Left: pink 'alfa' and lace gown. Lace 'Guimpe Chemisette'. Capeline of plain pink batiste decorated with red ribbons. right: toilette in plain blue silk and batiste with pompadour motif. Children's clothing from English Warehouse: a 'toilette' of silk, velvet and brown satin, suitable for a girl of 12 years. Below the performance a line of advertising text for various products. Print from the fashion magazine Revue de la Mode (1872-1913). Detailed description of the clothing on page 197 "PLANCHE COLORIÉE".

[chic-a-gigot]

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 22 juillet 1883, 12e annee, No. 603

Artist: P. Deferneville; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Two women on a balcony, in the background a beach with bathers. Left: 'toilette' of ecru colored 'bengaline', batiste or foulard, decorated with bows of dark blue velvet. Guimpe from side. Right: 'toilette' of red and pink plain voile and embroidered voile. Below the image a line of advertising text for various products. Print from the fashion magazine Revue de la Mode (1872-1913). Detailed description of the clothing on pages 226 and 227 "PLANCHE COLORIÉE".

[bethshistoricaldresses]

Evening dress from the early twentieth century in two pieces (bodice and skirt) in Leavers mechanical lace in black silk with Chantilly imitation and silk bobbinet in the same colour. ℹ Decorated with velvet appliqués, silver sequins, black sequins and black chenille medallions from which hang tassels of various sizes and similar fabric. ℹ Pointed bodice on the front with a 'remboursé' effect, with a high-necked #guimpe supported by light metal wire, three-quarter gigot sleeves rippled on the inside. ℹ From the flap in mechanical lace on the centre front there is a fringe in black and silver glass, interspersed with large black sequins. ℹ Tail skirt lined with taffeta in tralice veiled by organza sheets thickly crinkled at the hem with multiple pleated flounces. #history #museumcollection #antiquetextile #instamuseum #museumoninstagram #antiquesilk #historicaldress #costumehistory #fashion #historicalfashion #historicalclothing #dresshistory #fashionhistory #historicalcostume #fashionhistorian #20thcentury #20thcenturyfashion Source: Palazzo Pitti Costume Gallery. (Translated from Italian to English) https://www.instagram.com/p/B0ZJt0FANOC/?igshid=mpaegfkrrjwq