New shawl kit available this weekend! Swipe to check them out! . Over the past few weeks Holly from @hekofaknit and I have collaborated to create this super fun shawl kit! . Stripes and Peaks is a quick knit that uses one skein of my DK sock along with three 20g mini skeins in an ombre set! Holly has created a really fun pattern that plays with colour, stripes and a lovely chevron eyelet pattern down the middle! . I will have kits at the #kwknittersfair on Saturday and they will then be available on my site as of next Monday! . $49 per kit includes a full skein of DK sock, a set of 3 minis and a code to download the pattern. . In this post are samples of the Strawberry Lemonade and Maple Spruce kits as well as photos of Starry Night, Stormer and This is Halloween. . More kits to come and some fun one off mini sets to choose from...because I can't stop dyeing for this one 🤣🤣 . #communityovercompetition #collaboration #canadiandesigner #knitpattern #shawl #handdyedyarn #knittersofinstagram #knittingdesign #patterndesigner #knitting #handdyed #indiedyer #yarn #knitstagram #yarnaddict #yarnporn #indiedyedyarn #knit #indiedyersofinstagram #knittingaddict #handdyedyarns #handmade #indiedyers #indiedyersofig #instaknit #canadianmade🇨🇦 https://www.instagram.com/p/CiN9n3KpvAS/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
I knit this sweater top down with raglan increases in the round. There are increases on the top of the sleeves to give it the volume with a ribbed cuff to give it a balloon shape. The neckband is added at the end by picking up the neckband stitches. I did knit this to be slightly cropped, so finish the hem where you feel comfortable. This pattern was made for my size. My chest is 35”, and the sweater measures 39” around the chest. It’s my first time making a pattern, so I’m not confident enough to suggest how to alter this for different sizes! I’ll update this as I learn more.
Materials
(Used in the finished pictures)
Miss Babs K2 yarn
2 skeins Naked (480 yd)
1 skeins Lacewing (240 yd)
1 skeins Moss (240 yd)
960 yd total
Any 3 color way in a bulky yarn should serve you well. I loved working with Miss Babs because of its color and strand consistency.
Stitches to Know
K - knit
K4B - knit 4 below
K2tog - knit 2 together
P - purl
P2tog - purl 2 together
KFB - knit front and back
M1R - make 1 right
M1L - make 1 left
M1P- make 1 purl wise
PM - place marker
Raglan
Increases are worked on the right side of the work, at each side of a raglan-st. The raglan-st is a normal stitch and is worked as k1 on the RS and p1 on the WS. I placed stitch markers to either side of the raglan stitches to keep track. The increases are worked as:
M1R: Using the left needle, pick up the loop between two stitches from the back, k1.
M1L: Using the left needle, pick up the loop between two stitches from the front, k1 tbl.
In the first row of the pattern I indicate this at raglan-st(M1L, PM, k, PM, M1R) for the left side and raglan-st(M1R, PM, K, PM, M1L) for the right side. Afterwards I refer to it as (M1L, K, M1R) or (M1R, K, M1L). Always ensure the markers are directly on either side of the knit stitch, not the increase.
Bubble stitch calls for multiples of 4+3, so I cast on 39 stitches on the 10mm needles. Do not join to knit in the round yet, because we first work a few rows flat to create the back.
Cast-On/Yoke
CAST ON: 39 stitches with Color 1 (for me its Naked)
WORKING FLAT
(WS) Row 1: P across
(RS) Row 2: k1, raglan-st(M1L, pm, k, pm, M1R), k8, M1L, raglan-st(M1L, pm, k, pm, M1R), k17, raglan-st(M1R, pm, k, pm, M1L), k8, raglan-st(M1R, pm, k, pm, M1L), k1
Row 3: P across
Row 4: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1.
Row 5: P across
Row 6: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1.
Row 7: P across
Row 8: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1.
Row 9: P across
Row 10: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1.
Row 11: P across
Row 12: k1, M1L, k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to last st, M1R, k1.
Row 13: P across
There should be 97 stitches on your needles
Join the work into a round on the next row
Row 14: k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to end of row.
cast on 6 new stitches at the end of the row. Join to continue knitting in the round, making sure that your work is not twisted.
Row 15: K to the first raglan-st. The beginning of the round is now moved to this point.
There should be 111 stitches on your needles.
The work should be divided as: 1 raglan-st, 22 stitches (left sleeve), 1 raglan-st, 31 stitches (back), 1 raglan-st, 22 stitches (right sleeve), 1 raglan-st, 32 stitches (front).
Work in stockinette stitch in the round, while at the same time working raglan increases on every other round:
*(M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1L, K, M1R), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to marker, (M1R, K, M1L), k to end of row*
On the next round, k across all sts.*
Repeat from * to * a total of 6 times for 159 stitches.
Body
Place the 34 sleeve stitches on either side on hold while you knit the body. I placed mine slipped through leftover yarn to secure them while I worked the body.
Cast on 4 sts at each underarm (total 99 stitches), with your preferred in-row cast on method. The beginning of the round in now under the left arm. Place a marker in the
middle of the new sts at the left underarm to indicate the new beginning of round. This is the beginning of the bubble stitch pattern. This is the basic bubble stitch pattern:
**
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Knit across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Knit across
Row 5: Knit across NOTE: when changing yarn color, do so after this row, before starting Row 6
Row 6: Knit 3, * Knit 4 Below, Knit 3 *
**
Work 3 repetitions in Color 1 (Naked)
Change to Color 2 (Lacewing) on the third repetition for row 6
Work 2 repetitions in Color 2 (Lacewing)
Change to Color 3 (Moss) on the second repetition for row six
Work 3 repetitions in Color 3 (Moss)
This gave me a slightly cropped look, which I was going for. If you want a longer sweater, I think adding a pattern repetition in Color 2 (for a total of 3 repetitions) will give the desired length. Try on the sweater to determine if the length is right for you, before beginning to work the bottom rib. Change to the 9 mm circular needles and work 5 rows in rib (k1, p1). Bind off in established rib pattern.
Neckband
RS facing, with the 8mm circular needles pick up and knit 69 stitches, starting at the
transition between back and sleeve. The number of stitches to be picked up corresponds to approximately picking up 1 stitch per stitch along the neckline. In the sloped part of the neckline, you pick up 1 stitch for every row, corresponding to 10 stitches at either side.
Work 6 rounds in k1, p2 rib (k1, p2) (69 stitches)
Work 1 round with *k1, p2tog* decreases until the end of the round (46 stitches)
Work 6 rounds in k1, p1 rib
Work 1 round with * K1, p1, M1P* increases until the end of the round (69 stitches)
Work 5 rounds in k1, p2 rib. Bind off loosely in established rib pattern.
Fold the neckband down so the seam and bound off edge line up together. I crocheted the two seams together using a single crochet, but you could also mattress seam or sew these two together.
Sleeves
Note that the sleeves are extra-long to give that voluminous look. They are knit using the Magic Loop technique.
Back to Color 1! Place the 34 sleeve stitches on hold for one of the sleeves back onto a 10mm circular needle. Pick up and knit the 4 stitches cast on at the underarm (total 38 stitches). The beginning of the round is in the middle of these 4 new stitches.
The first 27 rows should be worked in stockinette, adding a one stitch increase every other row
*Row 1: knit across
Row 2: k1, kfb, k across*
.
.
.
Row 27: knit across
There should be 47 stitches on your needles.
Refer to the body section for the bubble stitch pattern.
Work 3 bubble pattern repetitions in Color 1 (Naked)
Change to Color 2 (Lacewing) on the third repetition before row 6
Work 4 bubble pattern repetitions in Color 2 (Lacewing)
Change to Color 3 (Moss) on the second repetition before row six
Work 4 bubble pattern repetitions in Color 3 (Moss)
Change to 8 mm (magic loop or dpns). Next round: * k2tog, p2tog *, repeat from * to * until the end of the round (24 stitches). Work 5 rounds in a k1, p1 rib. Bind off in established rib pattern.
Work the other sleeve identically.
Finishing
Weave in the ends and block. I use Soak Wash for my knitted items because it’s no rinse.
[English below] Ecco qui la news di metà settimana: è uscito un nuovo pattern, si tratta della Sciarpa Ginepro, è realizzata con #flaxdown di @purlsoho (ma c'è anche una versione per un filato estivo o più sottile). E' un progetto anche adatto a un livello prinicpiante/intermedio e va ad aggiungersi a una nuova sezione dello shop, quella dedicata ai pattern di maglia e uncinetto per principianti. Il pattern è in itaiano ed inglese, lo trovate nel mio shop www.unpeusauvage.com/shop e tra qualche giorno sarà anche su Ravelry. Nella descrizione trovate tutte le informazioni necessarie e molte altre foto. *** Here is the mid-week news: a new pattern has come out, it is the Ginepro (juniper) Scarf, it is made with #flaxdown by @purlsoho (but there is also a version for a summer or thinner yarn). It is also suitable for a beginner / intermediate level and joins a new section of the shop, the one dedicated to knitting and crochet patterns for beginners. The pattern is in Italian and English, you can find it in my shop www.unpeusauvage.com/shop and in a few days it will also be on Ravelry. In the description you will find all the necessary informations and many more photos. . . . #gineproscarf #knitpattern #unpeusauvagedesign (at Milan, Italy) https://www.instagram.com/p/CHdVE9ShgJN/?igshid=1trg7njngutw6
My #second #HarryPotter #knitting #project is now complete. I had #fun making this #3rdYearGryffindor #scarf. It was a #challenge. And it is my own. @dont.mind.the.crafts #knittingaddict #KnittedTassels #knitterpaige #knitted #knittingpaige #knittedscarf #knittingpattern #knitting #knitknitknit #knitpattern #knit #knitpaige #knitter #knittruth (at Town of Morinville) https://www.instagram.com/p/CATGcoqA2ZR/?igshid=d1y5ks863v60
Looking for a nice pattern that keeps you're brain engaged but doesn't need to much brain power (because who has that atm?!), one that can be made with something nice from stash, in pretty much any yarn weight? Something to knit while binging that TV show? The 'Drinking Games Shawl' is all that! https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/drinking-games-shawl https://www.instagram.com/p/B_X7L1ZJofu/?igshid=1ol1cq72x9nrs
My Leaf Out Shawl pattern is now available as individual download via Ravelry and KnitPicks 😄 . This pattern has some unusual double decreases. You can find video tutorial under #tetianaotruta_tutorials tag. . Do you interested in video How to attach sideways edge to open sts of the shawl body? . . #LeafOutShawl #otrutadesign #knitweardesigner #knitweardesign #laceshawl #knittersoftheworld #knittersofig #knittersofravelry #kniaddict #knitpattern #tetianaotruta https://www.instagram.com/p/By0sbMJABTI/?igshid=dn6b7c9x1s81
