Photographer Darren McDonald

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Photographer Darren McDonald
Anyone for a Tour of the Cemetery?
Thursday 30th January 2020 – Punta Arenas, Chile
After yesterday afternoon’s grey drizzle in the fjords, our arrival this morning was in brilliant sunshine. Temperature 51 degrees (11 deg.C) and gusty winds. So gusty, in fact, that some of the ‘higher activity level’ tours (kayaking, hiking and our friends Vicki & Craig’s catamaran trip) were all cancelled!
The UK’s polar research ship, Discovery (2012), was also here. She’s the third ship to bear the name of Scott & Shackleton’s illustrious expedition ship of 1901.
The southernmost city in Chile, Punta Arenas was founded as a penal colony by the Spanish in 1848 to control the Strait of Magellan, the ‘safe’ route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, without going around Cape Horn. It grew because of the Gold Rush and because of an influx of sheep-farmers and there is a monument to ‘The Sheep-farmer’ in the middle of one of the main avenues.
In fact, the picture below was taken when were here 17 years ago; today’s bunch on the bus didn’t want to bother getting off to look at it!
Today’s complimentary tour was just a walking tour of the town, so we booked the ‘Panoramic’ one instead.
However, aside from a ‘panoramic’ view of the Strait of Magellan, the church and the shepherd sculpture, most of our time was spent meandering around the Cemetery.
Now don’t get me wrong, it was not unpleasant and the architecture of some of the mausoleums (or should that be mausolea?) was interesting but would I have paid money for a tour if I had known? And judging by some of the ‘slow-coaches’ on the tour, Andrew said, “just wait a while and most of this lot might as well stay here!”
Unlike in Valparaiso, where graffiti is actively encouraged, here it was a sign of the sometimes violent civil unrest that has been taking place in Chile until recently.
Thankfully, things are relatively peaceful now, pending a referendum in April!
In the main square is the Cathedral and the statue to Magellan (subjugating the indigenous Indians).
Magellan claimed to be the first to navigate the Magellan Strait, the ‘safe’ route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, although I suspect the Indians (who sailed in canoes) might have something to say about that. If you touch the toe of the Indian at the foot of his statue, it’s supposed to bring you good luck and a promise of return – if you believe that sort of stuff! Otherwise, the poor subjugated Indians are immortalised in the cemetery by the ‘Unknown Indian’, surrounded by expressions of thanks for ‘requests granted’ – hmm.
Gusting winds upon our departure required the assistance of two tugs to get us away, heading out towards the Beagle Channel and Usuaia tomorrow….
Extremely rare example of one of the most historically important sea charts of the 19th Century, being the official chart showing the first detailed and scientific survey of the Strait of Magellan, undertaken in two separate expeditions by Captain Philip Parker King and Captain Robert FitzRoy between 1826 and 1834. An important artifact of 'Darwiniana', the chart is also the only original cartographic record of what was Charles Darwin's first overseas voyage.
The chart records the first and the most important efforts to scientifically map the Straits of Magellan, during which survey (on the first voyage), the Beagle Channel was discovered by Captain Robert FitzRoy.
https://www.raremaps.com/gallery/detail/34568/the-strait-of-magalhaens-commonly-called-magellan-british-admiralty
Magellan Strait. Own photo. What a place!!
Magellan Strait and Drake Passage
A Comparison of Two of the Most Iconic Sea Routes in South America
Discover the significant maritime routes of the Magellan Strait and Drake Passage. Learn about their navigational challenges, historical importance, and unique natural conditions that define these crucial waterways connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
Chilean Fjords: In the we small hours we sailed westward from the Canal Beagle into the Canal Ballenero and into the Pacific, where he headed north for approximately fifty nautical miles. At dawn we returned eastward into the Canal Cockburn, and the turned north into the Canal Magdalena, which lead us into roughly the midpoint of Strait of Magellan, where we enjoyed afternoon tea.
Magdalena Island in the Strait of Magellan, Magallanes Province (Chile), December 2014
Beard-a-day Day #22
I like Ferdinand Magellan's beard because it's Portugese and I've been wanting to use the word circumnavigation for a while.
I like Hannah Epstein's beard because it's on a girl and that's weird.