Chanel fragrance review
My dad bought this set for my mom in the mid-90s. I can’t seem to find the exact thing online but I believe they were from the Les exclusifs de Chanel line. We got them at Dayton’s, a famous department store that was started in Minneapolis in 1902, was rebranded in 2001 as Marshall Field’s, and was bought out by Macy’s in 2006. I’m wondering if the bottles Dad chose were in a pick-your-own situation. The bottles came with a soft, diamond-quilted black travel case with a handle. I imagine this was not a cheap purchase for my dad. My mother never really used it, often falling back on her vintage Karl Lagerfeld Chloé. So I just “borrowed” this set and was told I could just continue to keep using it indefinitely. I use them sparingly as they’re expensive and may have gone through reformulation.
N°22 eau de toilette: It seems that all les exclusifs were reformulated in 2007, so my review won’t reflect the current formula. It’s also difficult to find a review of N°22 eau de toilette, as the parfum is more common. According to the one review I could find, the top notes are aldehydes which accounts for its metallic sharpness, the middle notes are Jasmine, Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang and Rose - this combo gives it a deeply balanced scent, and the base notes are Vetiver, Vanilla and Incense, which give it a smokiness. Overall, it’s powerful for a toilette and the talc scent hits you right off the bat, reminiscent of Guerlain Shalimar but more fruity. The jasmine and Ylang-Ylang linger on my skin.
Coco eau de toilette: The general consensus is that eau de toilette is weaker after reformulation in recent years. I also have the new eau de parfum but that’s still quite strong. This eau de toilette is a warm and complex scent. Even the note analysis reads like a shopping list. “Top notes are Bulgarian Rose, Peach, Coriander, Mandarin Orange and Jasmine; middle notes are Cloves, Rose, Mimosa, Orange Blossom and Clover; base notes are Sandalwood, Opoponax, Amber, Civet, Vanilla, Tonka Bean and Labdanum.” Needless to say, it’s a very spicy scent. The sandalwood balances out the floral notes, making it the classic evening fragrance. Both the older eau de toilette and the current Coco I have linger on the skin a fairly long time. I wear this in all seasons, though it seems to be favored for an autumn and winter fragrance. You really can’t go wrong with this one.
N°5 eau de toilette: Another shopping-list scent. “Top notes are Aldehydes, Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Amalfi Lemon and Bergamot; middle notes are iris, Jasmine, Rose, Orris Root and Lily-of-the-Valley; base notes are Civetta, Sandalwood, Musk, oak moss, Vetiver, Amber, Vanille and Patchouli.” The jasmine and rose stand out to me. For such a famous scent it’s remarkably light, certainly not in a bad way. Perhaps it doesn’t work for my skin, but is a bit bitter and talc-y once applied and much of the nuance is lost. I still recommend it, even if just for the novelty of being one of the most famous perfumes in the world. It certainly strikes me as a spring fragrance but it works in winter just as well.
N°19 eau de toilette: I would call this a unique fragrance, spring in a bottle, though mildly astringent. According to the Fragrantica profile the top notes are “Green Notes”, Bergamot and Neroli; middle notes are Iris, Rose, Narcissus, Lily-of-the-Valley and Ylang-Ylang; base notes are oak moss, Vetiver, Leather and Sandalwood. Atmospheric perfumes that try to capture a particular scene or experience are popular these days and this is an early example of that. You’re metaphorically transported to a woody glade full of dew on a spring morning. It was released in 1970, a year before Coco Chanel died, well into her 80s. The fragrance certainly reminds me of 70s aesthetics and could be called “dated” if you’re not into it, but I think it’s a great slice from the history of perfume.
Cristalle eau de parfum: At the time my father bought this in the mid to late 1990s, this was a new perfume, having been released in 1993. “Top note is Mandarin Orange; middle notes are Melon, Jasmine, Peach and Ylang-Ylang; base notes are Oakmoss and Vetiver.” A bit harsh, very 90s, kind of smokey, and slightly bitter. The orange fades a bit too fast, leaving the melon to sort of fester. You can smell the peach but only if you concentrate really hard. The consensus is that it’s a scent most suited to spring but honestly I’m getting strong autumnal vibes. I feel like you could wear this to the park for a picnic date or to a nightclub. It can be fairly versatile.
Here’s the travel bag they came with:
