While going through books on one of my shelves (as I recommend anyone owning multiple shelves to do every now and then), I found this treasure (a souvenir from Edinburgh) I haven't exactly forgotten about but couldn'r remember where it was:
The publication is as awe-inspiring as it is intimidating. In all the years I owned it, I only dared to use one (1) basic pattern... From the second plate and first page of actual instructions. It's the highlighted part:
And I created this in GIMP:
(Yes, I messed up spacing in two middle rows).
Now, that I have found it, will I go back to it? Maybe.
But while I couldn't help to use this opportunity to show off my humble attempt, I am posting mainly to recommend the book. I don't know how it compares to others on the subject but personally I think it's absolutely fatanstic. It seems to still be easily available.
Circle skirts are often touted as one of those beginner projects that anyone can figure out. Yet, because it involves a bit of geometry to construct one, it can easily trip people up and discourage them.
It also often involves many people's first instance on pattern construction. Adding that to a first project can be a lot, so lets try to make it a little easier by explaining it in detail. I hope it helps!
If you know that even some simple math might trip you up, that's alright! However, I suggest you start with panel skirts. They can be just as swooshy if you use enough fabric! (Post on that coming up!)
Plus it'll help you get your head around the basic concepts first before additionally trying to tackle circles. (And hemming circle skirts... <.<)
Disclaimer: This is only covering a full circle skirt, in one piece and assembled from panels. I might do another post on the other types, though.
The fundamentals (without measures)
As you might have guessed from the name, a circle skirt is made up of a circle of fabric.
However, if it was just a solid circle, there would be no space for you to fit into the skirt. So we have to make a cutout in the center you can fit through. And to keep it simple, we do that as a circle, too.
So, it's actually two circles: The outer and the inner circle.
For this reason, when constructing a circle skirt, you will have to account not only for the skirt, but also for the you (right picture).
Because you will need the measure from the center of both circles to the edge of the outer circle, we need the distance from the center of your body to the hem of your theoretical skirt.
Since you can't measure inside your body (well, maybe you can, but I can't), this will have to be calculated based on the inner circle, which is to say: Based on your waist measure.
Let's get those and then I can explain further.
Measures you need
I suggest you write these down and tape/pin them up somewhere you can easily find them again.
First of all you will need your waist (W) and hip measure (H).
Waist is measured where you want the skirt to sit (usually the trimmest part of the torso), all around your body. Hip is measured at the widest part of your belly-butt area, all the way around as well.
You also need the skirt length (L). This is purely your decision to make. The measure should start where you took the hip measure and go to where you want the hem to land. You can also measure the length of a skirt you already like from the waistband to the hem.
A third measure is the radius (R) of the inner circle. This has to be calculated from the inner circles circumference (C). Depending on how you want to be closing up your skirt, we use either the hip or waist measurement here.
If you want to use an elastic or drawstring to create a gathered waist, use the waist measure (C=W).
If you wants to use a zipper, button(s) or snaps to create a smooth waist, use the hip measure (C=H).
Putting either closures in will be covered in the sewing a circle skirt post.
Whatever circumference C you choose, it is divided by 2π. I also frequently approximate this to 6 for back of the hand calculations (especially when I'm gathering the waist) so that works, too.
Constructing the circles with your measures
In formula form:
R = C/2π
OR
R = C/6
Armed with these measures, we can now draw out the circles as follows:
C = Circumference of the inner circle
R = Radius of the inner circle (minus 1cm or 5/8th inch for seam allowance)
L = Skirt length (plus 1cm or 5/8th inch for seam allowance)
For our purposes, I recommend drawing on paper or cardboard (I often just tape multiple pieces together until I have a big enough piece) instead of directly on the fabric. Because if you make a circle skirt yourself, usually, a full circle does not fit onto the piece of fabric you have/can get. This is why we use panels (see below - especially if you want to save on paper, draw on the fabric or know how much fabric you need).
C is on here mainly so you can make sure that you have the right circumference drawn out. It doesn't have to be exactly right (especially if you rounded some and/or divided C by 6), but it should be in the right wheelhouse.
The inner circle can be drawn by using the value we calculated for R, the inner radius. The outer circle is drawn from the same center point, so we use R + L plus 1cm or 5/8th inch (for seam allowance) as the value for the outer radius.
The way I do it (because I don't have a compass that size) is usually that I get out a measuring tape, pin the end of it to the center point, measure out the lengths of the radius of each circle and mark multiple points on the line and then connect them. You can also try to pin a string of the right length down the same way and use it like a compass.
Panels
A circle can of course also be put together out of multiple parts, too. In skirts those are called panels. The amount of panels depends on your fabric size (and a little on construction considerations e.g. for patterned fabric or if you want pockets, but we're not thinking about any of that right now).
For a circle skirt we commonly go with 2 or 4 panels (halfs and quarters), but 6 or 8 are also used (sixths or eigths).
If you have already drawn a full circle, you can just cut that into however many pieces you need and add a strip of 1cm or 5/8th inch seam allowance on each cut edge. If you have trouble dividing things up equally, but a way to measure angles, I have added the size of each panel's angle in the picture.
If you have held off on drawing the full circle, however, you probably already knew you'd need panels.
If you know how many panels you want/need, simply use the same method described above to draw the circles, but partly, and add the seam allowances to the straight edges. The lengths are the same, but you will have to divide C by the number of panels if you want to check your math/drawing skills.
If you don't know how many panels/ how much fabric you need, come with me to the next section.
Panel & fabric "calculation"
If you want to use half and quarter circles, you need a fabric that is wider than your R + L measure (e.g. the radius of the outer circle) by plus 1cm or 5/8th inch (for seam allowance). Quarter circles will save you a little in length, though.
If it isn't, you want to go with 6 or 8 panels, depending on how much cutting and sewing you're willing to do, I guess. (Or choose a wider fabric or shorten the skirt.)
For calculating how much fabric you need, a full circle needs the double of R+L in length. For everything else... you could probably math this, but I am not willing to when I have a graphics program (I use Inkscape, which is a free vector program) that lets me figure it out visually. If you want to try this too, familiarize yourself with how to use the circle tool and how to cut shapes from each other (there are plenty tutorials).
You can also do the same thing with paper patterns, though. Or with scaled down versions (e.g. using mm for cm or inches for yards).
For example, here is all the ways I could think to arrange six panels on 140cm fabric width and how much length of fabric each of them would take.
I was going to add another section about actually sewing the skirt, but it got so long that I have decide to make that its own post. Coming soon!
New big orange cutting table from AE Sewing Machines up and working!
- a cutting table customised for Meet the Manufacturer in London earlier this year.
