The magpie's nest

Just a place to collect my creations (Avatar courtesy of Vivek Doshi on Unsplash)

[craftexchange]

Welcome back to Show and Tell Saturday! It's not really a craft, but I'm having fun messing around with my Internet of Things setup. What's new in your world this week?

[scratchmakes]

Made these little guys out of scraps with the spouse as a fun little activity/trash craft.

Also finally got around to learning medieval finger loop braiding and what the length limitations are. Very fun very ornamental

[a-silly-poll-side-blog-yay]

you teleported to your main special interest! will you survive?

yes

no

results

Voting ended onAug 20, 2025

[wizardarchetypes]

NOT THE BUBONIC PLAGUE FOLKLORE OF NORWAY IN 1349 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭

[gallusrostromegalus]

I'm not doing much better at the Deep Sea Hydrothermal Vent bestie.

[thebibliosphere]

Iron Age Fairy Forts 😬

[corvuscorvax49]

Good luck y'all, but im chilling over here with the weavers, spinners, crocheters and embroidery artists.

We're gonna get some carpal tunnel and then go out for icecream

[scratchmakes]

Same, but it's across the ages, so imagining myself smeared across the timeline and... ouch

[scratchmakes]

Constructing a circle skirt pattern

Circle skirts are often touted as one of those beginner projects that anyone can figure out. Yet, because it involves a bit of geometry to construct one, it can easily trip people up and discourage them.

It also often involves many people's first instance on pattern construction. Adding that to a first project can be a lot, so lets try to make it a little easier by explaining it in detail. I hope it helps!

If you know that even some simple math might trip you up, that's alright! However, I suggest you start with panel skirts. They can be just as swooshy if you use enough fabric! (Post on that coming up!)

Plus it'll help you get your head around the basic concepts first before additionally trying to tackle circles. (And hemming circle skirts... <.<)

Disclaimer: This is only covering a full circle skirt, in one piece and assembled from panels. I might do another post on the other types, though.

The fundamentals (without measures)

As you might have guessed from the name, a circle skirt is made up of a circle of fabric.

However, if it was just a solid circle, there would be no space for you to fit into the skirt. So we have to make a cutout in the center you can fit through. And to keep it simple, we do that as a circle, too.

So, it's actually two circles: The outer and the inner circle.

For this reason, when constructing a circle skirt, you will have to account not only for the skirt, but also for the you (right picture).

Because you will need the measure from the center of both circles to the edge of the outer circle, we need the distance from the center of your body to the hem of your theoretical skirt.

Since you can't measure inside your body (well, maybe you can, but I can't), this will have to be calculated based on the inner circle, which is to say: Based on your waist measure.

Let's get those and then I can explain further.

Measures you need

I suggest you write these down and tape/pin them up somewhere you can easily find them again.

First of all you will need your waist (W) and hip measure (H).

Waist is measured where you want the skirt to sit (usually the trimmest part of the torso), all around your body. Hip is measured at the widest part of your belly-butt area, all the way around as well.

You also need the skirt length (L). This is purely your decision to make. The measure should start where you took the hip measure and go to where you want the hem to land. You can also measure the length of a skirt you already like from the waistband to the hem.

A third measure is the radius (R) of the inner circle. This has to be calculated from the inner circles circumference (C). Depending on how you want to be closing up your skirt, we use either the hip or waist measurement here.

If you want to use an elastic or drawstring to create a gathered waist, use the waist measure (C=W).

If you wants to use a zipper, button(s) or snaps to create a smooth waist, use the hip measure (C=H).

Putting either closures in will be covered in the sewing a circle skirt post.

Whatever circumference C you choose, it is divided by 2π. I also frequently approximate this to 6 for back of the hand calculations (especially when I'm gathering the waist) so that works, too.

Constructing the circles with your measures

In formula form:

R = C/2π

OR

R = C/6

Armed with these measures, we can now draw out the circles as follows:

C = Circumference of the inner circle R = Radius of the inner circle (minus 1cm or 5/8th inch for seam allowance) L = Skirt length (plus 1cm or 5/8th inch for seam allowance)

For our purposes, I recommend drawing on paper or cardboard (I often just tape multiple pieces together until I have a big enough piece) instead of directly on the fabric. Because if you make a circle skirt yourself, usually, a full circle does not fit onto the piece of fabric you have/can get. This is why we use panels (see below - especially if you want to save on paper, draw on the fabric or know how much fabric you need).

C is on here mainly so you can make sure that you have the right circumference drawn out. It doesn't have to be exactly right (especially if you rounded some and/or divided C by 6), but it should be in the right wheelhouse.

The inner circle can be drawn by using the value we calculated for R, the inner radius. The outer circle is drawn from the same center point, so we use R + L plus 1cm or 5/8th inch (for seam allowance) as the value for the outer radius.

The way I do it (because I don't have a compass that size) is usually that I get out a measuring tape, pin the end of it to the center point, measure out the lengths of the radius of each circle and mark multiple points on the line and then connect them. You can also try to pin a string of the right length down the same way and use it like a compass.

Panels

A circle can of course also be put together out of multiple parts, too. In skirts those are called panels. The amount of panels depends on your fabric size (and a little on construction considerations e.g. for patterned fabric or if you want pockets, but we're not thinking about any of that right now).

For a circle skirt we commonly go with 2 or 4 panels (halfs and quarters), but 6 or 8 are also used (sixths or eigths).

If you have already drawn a full circle, you can just cut that into however many pieces you need and add a strip of 1cm or 5/8th inch seam allowance on each cut edge. If you have trouble dividing things up equally, but a way to measure angles, I have added the size of each panel's angle in the picture.

If you have held off on drawing the full circle, however, you probably already knew you'd need panels.

If you know how many panels you want/need, simply use the same method described above to draw the circles, but partly, and add the seam allowances to the straight edges. The lengths are the same, but you will have to divide C by the number of panels if you want to check your math/drawing skills.

If you don't know how many panels/ how much fabric you need, come with me to the next section.

Panel & fabric "calculation"

If you want to use half and quarter circles, you need a fabric that is wider than your R + L measure (e.g. the radius of the outer circle) by plus 1cm or 5/8th inch (for seam allowance). Quarter circles will save you a little in length, though.

If it isn't, you want to go with 6 or 8 panels, depending on how much cutting and sewing you're willing to do, I guess. (Or choose a wider fabric or shorten the skirt.)

For calculating how much fabric you need, a full circle needs the double of R+L in length. For everything else... you could probably math this, but I am not willing to when I have a graphics program (I use Inkscape, which is a free vector program) that lets me figure it out visually. If you want to try this too, familiarize yourself with how to use the circle tool and how to cut shapes from each other (there are plenty tutorials).

You can also do the same thing with paper patterns, though. Or with scaled down versions (e.g. using mm for cm or inches for yards).

For example, here is all the ways I could think to arrange six panels on 140cm fabric width and how much length of fabric each of them would take.

I was going to add another section about actually sewing the skirt, but it got so long that I have decide to make that its own post. Coming soon!

[clownskribbles]

I am so bad at posting here consistently but I feel like Tumblr would appreciate my best friend Fishbag (and the various creatures that live within her)

[clownskribbles]

Sewing pattern for the FISH BAG. FISH BAG is a large, multifunctional bag with one side pocket, 2 small optional pockets in the mouth and a

Fish bag is Here For You Now! The sewing pattern is finally finished!

[clownskribbles]

FISH BAG sewing pattern - Bird Taylor Arts 's Ko-fi Shop

Sewing pattern for the FISH BAG. FISH BAG is a large, multifunctional bag with one side pocket, 2 small optional pockets in the mouth and a

Now also available on Kofi in case Etsy isn't your vibe!

[thatswhywelovegermany]

Honestly, as a German I can not quite understand the obsession of the English speaking world with the question whether a word exists or not. If you have to express something for which there is no word, you have to make a new one, preferably by combining well-known words, and in the very same moment it starts to exist. Agree?

[latveriansnailmail]

Deutsche Freunde, could you please create for me a word for the extreme depression I feel when I bend down to pick up a piece of litter and discover two more pieces of litter?

[thatswhywelovegermany]

um = around

die Welt = world

die Umwelt = environment

ver = prefix to indicate something difficult or negative, a change that leads to deterioration or even destruction that is difficult to reverse or to undo, or a strong negative change of the mental state of a person

der Müll = garbage, trash, rubbish, litter

-ung = -ing

die Vermüllung = littering

ver- = see before

zweifeln = to doubt

-ung = see before

die Verzweiflung = despair, exasperation, desperation

die Umweltvermüllungsverzweiflung = …

[serhumfreysbrokencollarbone]

This is a german compound on the spot master class and I am LIVING

[thatswhywelovegermany]

#my german is still too basic for this but I desperately want a compound word for how much these compound words piss me off

das Monster = monster

das Wort = word

der Groll = grudge, anger, malice, rancor

der Monsterwortgroll = …

[linguistikforum]

Monsterwortbildungsimitationsunfähigkeitsverzweiflungsgroll

[thatswhywelovegermany]

die Bildung = formation

die Imitation = imitation

un- = un-, in-

fähig = able

-keit = -ility

die Unfähigkeit = inability

der Monsterwortbildungsimitationsunfähigkeitsverzweiflungsgroll = anger about the inability to imitate the formation of monster words

[wildflower182]

Linguistikfehdenhandschuhwurf

[thatswhywelovegermany]

die Linguistik = linguistics

die Fehde = feud

der Handschuh = glove

der Fehdehandschuh = gauntlet

der Wurf = throw

der Linguistikfehdenhandschuhwurf = throwing down the linguistic gauntlet

[shiplocks-of-love]

*slowly backs in fear*

[meetinginsamarra]

@shiplocks-of-love, @thatswhywelovegermany

Monsterwortbildungsunfähigkeitsangstverzweiflungsrückzugsecke

Monster=monster // wort=word // bildung(s)=formation

unfähigkeit (s)=incabability  // angst=anxiety

verzweiflung(s)=desperation  // rückzug(s)=retreat // ecke=corner

=the corner in which you retreat when you´re desperate because of your fear when being unable to form monster words

[shiplocks-of-love]

*eye twitch*

But what I want to see now is two germans arguing over the construction of one of these monster words.

[melmey]

@shiplocks-of-love I don’t think that will happen. The words make perfect sense. I think if German is your mother tongue you get a feeling for combining words, like a 

Monsterwortbildungsgespür

Monster = monster 

Wort = word 

Bildung(s) = formation

Gespür = intuition

;-)

[a-german-learning-clown]

🤡

[dewdropbonnet]

Sprachirrgartenbelustigungsbeitrag

[thatswhywelovegermany]

die Sprache = language

• irren = to become lost (also: to err, to be mistaken; to wander, to stray)

• der Garten = garden

der Irrgarten = maze, knot garden

• be- = prefix with a variety of functions: ¹as part of a compound word, it denotes a processing or change of state; ²as part of a compound word, it denotes a touch; ³as part of a compound word, it denotes a more intensive preoccupation with or thematization of something; ⁴it forms from a noun an adjective with a pseudo-participle form because the corresponding verb does not exist; ⁵as a prefix, it forms a transitive verb from a previously intransitive verb; ⁶as a prefix of a verb, it shifts the focus and thus changes the sentence structure

• lustig = funny

• -ung = suffix turning an adjective/adverb into a noun

die Belustigung = amusement, entertainment, merriment

der Beitrag = contribution, article in a newspaper or magazine, posting on social media, input to a discussion

[linguistness]

Bloody love this language <3<3<3

[randomgerman]

The thing is, since in German you have to decline/conjugate many words in relation to the noun they are refering to those monster words actually serve a purpose of making the language simpler. A common example is a (as in any) red wine (ein roter Wein) as compaired to the compound a red wine (ein Rotwein). If rot is an adjective it has to be conjugated: der rote Wein - des roten Weins - die roten Weine - and many more. But it if rot is part of the noun you only have to decline Wein: der Rotwein - des Rotweins - die Rotweine. So, die Verzweiflung über die Vermüllung der Umwelt is way longer than Umweltvermüllungsverzweiflung and you would have to know three grammatical genders and the words’ respective declinations. Whereas for Umweltvermüllungsverzweiflung you only need to know that Verzweiflung is grammatically feminine (die) and its deklinations.

[mareebrittenford]

Ok, now I want to see Germans playing Scrabble

[thatswhywelovegermany]

[scratchmakes]

No but seriously, one of the best parts of playing Scrabble in German is being able to keep compounding the words

[hellenhighwater]

Proof of concept for a simple, cheap, flatpack lantern!

Two squares off a 1x4, holes drilled in the top piece for a rope handle; popsicle sticks for the sides, stuck together with woodglue (and stained beforehand) with magnets in the corners. Cicada wing paper glued to the frames. The magnets attach to little tack nails hammered into the squares of wood.

I think on the next ones I'll make the rope handle go though both the top and bottom for extra strength. But this can be held up with just the magnets holding it together, which is pretty good!

[hellenhighwater]

I did manage to superglue all my fingers together while making this, and there's still so much glue that I've resorted to eating cheese puffs with chopsticks

Do you think vice wants some? Do you think he craves the cheese??

Anyways, you can definitely modify this design a lot to be more refined than this. I just wanted to see if it's viable as something I can make a lot of! I'll be sure to update when I figure out what needs to change from this design.

[scratchmakes]

Bargello-inspired embroidery on the spouse's bike basket. The yarn was taken completely from my stash so I'm glad the colour combination worked out. (The red from the progress pictures was a little to bright though.)

Because the mesh and available space is obviously very different from what you'd normal use bargello on, I adapted the design a little and it ended up very wide, bit I still like it. And so does the spouse, which is the most important bit!

[farm-paws]

HE’S GAY AND FRIENDLY!

From: ‘Home-made Toys’ The Australian Women’s Weekly, 1960s approx.

[farm-paws]

For you @appenzellerlouis

[herbcitty]

DO MAKE HIM-HE'S GAY AND FRIENDLY!

• This knitted elephant with his bright red saddle-cloth will bring long-lasting joy to a kiddie. Easy to make too. Just follow directions to success.

Materials required: 3 skeins Sun-Glo shrinkproof or Sunbeam super 3-ply fingering wool, shade No. 347 (grey); 1 skein shade No. 2138 (red), and a small quantity of yellow and white wol; 1 pair No. 11 needles; 1 crochet hook; 2 black shoe buttons.

Using double wool throughout, cast on 16 sts. K 2 rows (working into back of sts. on the lst row).

3rd Row: K twice into lst st., k to end.

4th Row: Cast on 21 sts., for hind leg, k to end (38 sts.).

5th Row: K twice into 1st st., k to end.

6th Row: K. Repeat 5th and 6th rows 5 more times (44 sts.). K 5 rows.

22nd Row: Cast off 19 sts., k to end.

23rd Row: K.

24th Row: K 2 tog., k to end. K 26 rows.

51st Row: K twice into last st. of row.

52nd Row: K.

53rd Row: K twice into 1st st. (neck edge), k to end.

54th Row: Cast on 19 sts. for foreleg, k to end.

55th Row: K twice into 1st st., k to end.

56th Row: K. Repeat 55th and 56th rows 7 more times (53 sts).

71st Row: K twice into lst st., k to end.

72nd Row: Cast off 24 sts., k to end (30 sts.).

73rd Row: K to last 2 sts., k 2 tog.

74th Row: K. Repeat 73rd and 74th rows twice (27sts.).

79th Row: K to last 2 sts., k 2 tog. Repeat 79th row 3 times (23 sts.). K 4 rows.

87th Row: K 2 tog., k to last st., k twice into last st.

88th Row: K. Repeat 87th and 88th rows twice.

93rd Row: K 2 tog., k to end.

94th Row: Cast on 20 sts., k to last 2 sts., k 2 tog. (41 sts.).

95th Row: (R 2 tog.) twice, k to end (39 sts.).

96th Row: K to last 4 sts. (k 2 tog.) twice. Repeat 95th and 96th rows 4 more times (21 sts.). Cast off. Work another piec the same way.

THE UNDERBODY AND INSIDE OF LEGS

Cast on 3 sts. and k into back of sts.

2nd Row: K twice into 1st st., k to last st., k twice into last st.

3rd Row: K. Repeat last 2 rows twice (9 sts.).

8th Row: Cast on 21 sts. for hind leg, k to end. Repeat last row. K 16 rows.

26th Row: Cast off 19 sts., k to end (32 sts.). Repeat 26th row (13 sts).

28th Row: K 2 tog., k to last 2 sts., k 2 tog. K 25 rows.

54 Row: K twice into Ist st., k to last st., k twice into last st.

55th Row: K.

56th Row: Cast on 19 sts. for foreleg, k to end. Repeat 56th row. K 16 rows.

74th Row: Cast off 24 sts., k to end (27 sts.). Repeat 74th row (3 sts.).

76th Row: K twice into 1st and last sts. K 5 rows.

82nd Row: K 2 tog., k to last 2 sts., k 2 tog. Cast off.

FOOT-PADS

Cast on 4 sts., k into back of sts.

2nd Row: K twice into 1st st., k to last st., k twice into last st.

3rd Row: K. Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows. K 4 rows.

10th Row: K 2 tog., k to last 2 sts., k 2 tog.

11th Row: K. Repeat 10th and 11th rows (4 sts.). Cast off. Make 3 more pieces the same.

EARS

Cast on 4 sts., k into back of sts.

2nd Row: K twice, into 1st st., k to last st., k twice. into last st. K 3 rows. Repeat last 4 rows (8 sts.).

10th Row: K twice into 1st st., k to last st., k twice into last st.

11th Row: K. Repeat 10th and 1lth rows 4 times (18 sts.). K 14 rows.

34th Row: K 2 tog., k to last 2 sts., k 2 tog.

35th Row: K. Repeat 34th and 35th rows twice.

40th Row: K 5, k. 2 tog., k 5.

41st Row: K

42nd Row: K 4, k 2 tog., k 5. K 1 row. Cast off. Make another ear the same.

TAIL

Cast on 3 sts. K lst row into back of sts.

2nd Row: K twice into 1st and last sts.

3rd Row: K. Repeat last 2 rows twice. K 6 rows.

14th Row: K 2 tog., k to last 2 sts., k 2 tog. K 7 rows. Repeat the last 8 rows. K 8 rows. Cast off.

SADDLE-CLOTH

Using red wool, cast on 20 sts. Work 60 rows st.-st. Cast off 7 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows. K 40 rows or enough to go round body on these 6 sts. Cast off.

Join to opposite side of saddle-cloth.

Using yellow wool, work 1 row of d.c. round saddle-cloth, working 3 times into each corner st. to keep work flat.

TUSKS

Using white wool, crochet 11 chain. Miss the 1st chain and work 1 d.c. into each of next 5 chain, then sl.-stitch along the remaining 5 ch. Fasten off.

Make another tusk the same way.

TO MAKE UP

Sew the 2 pieces of body together from neck to end of back, press this seam and the rest of the knitting.

Sew from the throat along the trunk over the head to the neck. Sew in the under-body and foot-pads. Stufi well with any suitable material, stuffing the legs, head, and trunk well to make a good shape. Sew up back opening. Sew along the seam of tail and stuff lightly.

Sew the ears in position, and sew on buttons for eyes.

Sew on tusks, placing the broad part of the face and stitch the narrow end to the trunk. Sew on saddle-cloth.

The Australian Women's Weekly Toy Book

[timewasjustadream]

Here he is. Made him in 6 days.

Thank you so much for transcribing the pattern!

I used Lion Brand Re-spun worsted weight (it's more like light worsted) held double and US 7 needles.

He's about 10" tall and 16" long.

I did a few modifications. The pattern has some crochet (tusks and saddle edging). I love crochet and consider myself a crocheter before a knitter, but I wanted to keep him entirely knitted. I did the tusks as an icord and modified the saddle to have a seed stitch edge. Also, with the way I did the saddle, I was trying to keep 6 strands of yarn organized. Probably the hardest part of the pattern, but entirely self-imposed.

Now we just need to get this pattern on Ravelry.

Edit: scrolling through the reblogs. Saw @alexafaie-wtf-is-this ask for someone to make him. Hope you like him :)

[sarahthecoat]

sweet!

[scratchmakes]

Making simple pouches from scraps

This started as a comment about simple projects for beginner sewists, but it got a bit out of hand, so I decided to drop it on this blog with illustrations for easier reference!

The result are pouches that I use to organize small things like the items in my daily carry bag (e.g. pens, medicine/toiletries) or regularly packed items that I would like to be able to grab quickly to bring to certain outings (e.g. dice bag for roleplay).

Generally, there are four kinds of pouches I have made from scraps:

A flat, rectangular drawstring bag, good for small items like e.g. tampons, band aids, pill blisters. We're going to discuss two variations, one of which is a little easier (a) and one that IMHO looks a little better (b).

A flat, equally rectangular zipper bag, good for pens or makeup.

A circle drawstring bag, good as a smaller dice bag or as a gift bag, imho.

A circle drawstring bag with a flat bottom. A bit more complicated, but better for bigger dice collections. Because we greedy gremlins need space for all our shiny click-clacks, don't we ;)

1. Flat Drawstring Pouch

These are super easy in my opinion. You’ll need either a single piece that is significantly wider than it is high, which I usually make into version a or two scraps in about the same size, which I like to use for version b.

For version a, to make it a drawstring, we fold over the top edge (about 1,5cm/half an inch is usually enough) to the inside and sew that down close to that folded down fabric edge.

For version b, do the same for both pieces, but the fold over needs to be a bit bigger (about 3cm/an inch) as you need a little more space. Sew this down the same as version a, but add a second seam above, with a distance of about 1cm (~3/8th inch). If you have a twin needle, this might also be a use for it.

Then, for version a, you fold the wide piece in half and for version b you lay the two pieces on top of each other, outsides together in both cases. And then you sew shut all the sides you want to be closed.

Turn it inside out and – using a seam ripper or pair of snips – cut holes into the outer layer of fabric on each side of each side seam.

This means two holes for version a between the seam and top edge and four holes for version b, between the two seams.

(Only one side each depicted here, do the same on the back.)

Then you can thread a string or ribbon into one of the holes and through the channels you have sewn. I tie the string to a small safety pin as it is easier to push through the channel from the outside.

For version b you can either use two strings (one for each side) or one long one to go all the way around (by going out the hole on one side of the side seam and going into the one on the other side of the side seam).

Tie up the ends of your strings and you’ve got your drawstring bag!

2. Flat Zipper Bag

As a note: The zipper might prove challenging. However, it does present a great opportunity to try your hand on this dreaded piece of haberdashery. To make things easier on yourself I would recommend to avoid invisible or separating zippers and to make sure they’re not shorter than the longest item (e.g. the longest pen) you would like to fit through it.

Aside from the zipper you will need a roughly square piece of fabric. I usually just use the zipper as a ruler for one side, making sure that the whole scrap (so including seam allowance) is the same length as the tape. If you don’t quite have that, take e.g. the noted longest pen as reference and, as illustrated below, make sure that (in addition to seam allowance) one side of the square is the length of the pencil (L) and two of its heights (H).

The other side determines how much space we have in the pouch. So for our example we want it to be at least three pencil heights plus one extra for wiggle room (so 4*H). But we need this measure twice because a pouch generally has at least two sides, so all in all we’re at 8*H. Or you use whatever you have as long as it’s bigger than that. ;)

First of all we sew the zipper in. We determine the outside of both the zipper and the fabric and put them against each other, with one of the outer edges of the zipper tape aligned with the side that is supposed to be the opening. Pin it, then you sew it on with a straight stitch. If you’re using a normal foot (in contrast to a zipper foot, which should come with its own instructions), you can usually let it run along the teeth, as that will provide a great ruler to not get any wobbliness in your seam.

Tip: Make sure you’re not sewing too close to the zipper’s slider. I usually push it all the way to the opposing end of the zipper when I start sewing and when I’m halfway, I sink my needle into the fabric, lift the sewing foot and pull the slider all the way to the already sewn end before I lower the foot again and proceed to sew the other half.

You’ve attached one side of the zipper! Great! Now do the same thing on the other side, still making sure to lay outsides onto each other. You will end up with what looks like a zippable tube with the slider on the inside. Flatten the tube, pin it closed if necessary (the zipper tape might be a bit stubborn) and sew it close on both ends. (Careful to move the slider away from your needle!)

I like my zipper on one edge, but you can just as well flatten the tube so the zipper is centered on one of the sides.

Turn the whole thing inside out and TADA! Zipper pouch!

3. Circular Drawstring Pouch

This pouch is probably the easiest of the pouches as you only have to sew a channel around the edge and draw a string through. That channel, however, is basically a hem on a small circle. Which will prepare you for the pain of hemming circle skirts ;)

Once again you will have to cut holes for the drawstring to go in and it is fully a matter of taste if you do more than two holes, but they should be an even number.

4. Drawstring Pouch With Flat Bottom

This pouch has similarities with the other draw string pouch, but because of the flat bottom it is the only one that will stand on its own, which makes it a good shape for a bigger pouch. Nevertheless, it is still a good scrap project!

You will need a circular piece and a strip that is the length of the circle’s circumference and at least the height of the circle’s radius 6 cm / 2 inches.

(If you struggle to find the circle’s circumference and radius, I included the equations for both in the illustration below. The Diameter can be measured by folding the circle in half and measuring the fold.)

Fold over one of the long (top) edges and sew drawstring channels as described for the flat pouches. Then lay the bottom edge along the edge of the circle, pin and sew them together. You will hate it, as flats sewn to curves is the point of this, but it’s worth the effort.

Finally, sew the two short edges of the strip together and turn the bag inside out.

Once again, you will have to add a drawstring, but it is up to you how many holes you cut for it, 2 or more, buit an even number.

[fairykukla]

Why "Universal" means "Equally bad."

So you go to the store to buy needles for your sewing machine. You are going to find one of two things: a few "Universal" needles, or a large section with dozens of needle types.

"None of these say my machine brand on them," you think. "What do these numbers mean?"

I'm here to help you out!

It turns out that needles for sewing machines have amazing specialties to help make the work easier.

Ball point/Jersey: these needles have a rounded 'ball' point so that they don't accidentally cut the threads in a knit fabric. Ever cut a thread in a sweater? We don't want that to happen in a knit fabric either. Knits are used for t-shirts, Sweatshirts and the like.

Sharp/Microtex Sharp: My Beloved. If you sew on any woven fabric, and see "puckers" along your seam, you're not using a Sharp needle. Developed for micro-textiles, these are brilliant for printed quilting cotton, satin, woven silk, and the like.

Jeans/Denim: larger eye, bladed tip. The Sharp is a stiletto; a Denim needle is a sword. The bladed tip makes it easier for your machine to power through densely woven fabrics like canvas, upholstery fabrics, brocade, and old-fashioned denim.

Stretch: this needle is designed to sew on Elastic fabrics with minimal skipped stitches. Spandex and Lycra can stretch so well that they're carried by the needle into the bobbin area of the machine, preventing the stitch from completing. Stretch needles pass through the fabric easier without punching holes.

Quilting: Yep! There's a needle for this! Great for piecing, these really shine while sewing through the layers of fabric and batting. They make free lotion quilting a lot easier, and you won't have to fiddle with the tensions as much!

Leather: perfect for Vinyl, pleather 'vegan' leather, actual leather, and suede, this needle is like a Denim needle with a twist; a twisted blade, that is. It makes a perfectly round hole to prevent the dreaded "Tear along the dotted line" effect.

Metallic: yes, all needles are made of metal, but this type is gentle to metallic threads for decorative work.

Topstitch: this needle has an extra large eye and groove to accommodate heavier threads. Great for high-contrast visible topstitching with heavier threads.

There are others, but this is a good place to start. "Universal" needles don't have any of the specialized features listed above. They aren't sharp, aren't ball-pointed either. They have an average sized eye and groove.

They will sew. They will form a stitch, and they can be a lifesaver when you're not sure what kind of needle to use because you're sewing with more than one challenging fabric simultaneously. However, they aren't "good at" anything. They're kind of "equally bad" at everything.

Do yourself and your sewing machine a favor: Use the right needle for the right project.

One final pro tip: change your needle every 8 hours or so of actual sewing, or at the beginning of every major project.

[craftexchange]

My goodness it's Saturday already! Welcome back to Show and Tell Saturday - your favorite moderator is unfortunately dealing with some tight deadlines so this will be a nice reprieve. What's new in your world this week?

[scratchmakes]

The netting on my knee pad was ripped. So I sewed it down round the edges and hid the ugly fix behind a cute fabric scrap.

[scratchmakes]

This fabric I ordered to make a shirt with turned out to be stiffer than I thought so I pivoted and used it for a pair of improvised split side pants. The construction is based on a tiktok I saw a year or so ago and really only uses one crotch seam (and lots and lots of hemming + waistband ties).

The pleats should probably have been darts, but pleating is my favorite way to fit flats (fabric) to rounds (like e.g. my hips & butt).

Oh and have I mentioned the pockets?

Cost: 9 € (for fabric, thread's from the stash) Work time: ~8-10h

I have a few notes in case I do these again in future but for now I'm really happy with how fast and easily it came together and how well they turned out.