Tips for making good doll/toy photos with minimal budget- A huge post
When I started my outside blog Teatime Tangents and Toys (dot blogspot dot com), I was kind of just there as a reviewer, but I have always been a creative deeply invested in visual media so the eventual demand came to make pretty photos of my dolls and other toy subjects, for to explore their aesthetics and stories and give my blog some attractive pictures to highlight posts with and make you wanna read 'em. It's become the primary focus of my blog passion now, with photo ideas being a huge driver toward what I want to discuss. As such, I've spent a lot of time developing my skill in photographing and designing images of dolls from a home setup without a spacious studio or the budget or talent for stop-motion quality sets. I thought I'd discuss what I've gotten from this experience. My body-model custom Maudie (say hi on her post; she's kind of a staple) will demonstrate for a few photos.
All of this and most of my blog (save for edited digital compositions) is done on my Samsung phone camera. I do not have Photoshop. I'm not covering digital art stuff I've done in this post, but the program that's carried me this far, even when I really ought to have been doing things another more sensible way, is the free software Inkscape.
Level 1: Basic presentation; no staging.
If you purely want to show off a subject as a standalone piece to say it's cool and you like it, then it's entirely about focus and lighting. You want your subject to be legible and represent a true-to-life appearance so your audience sees what you see.
This is not your goal if you want to show off your subject.
This photo is taken in low light with deliberately low focus. If I tried to post this on Instagram saying "look at my doll she's so cute", she'd absolutely flop and would not do numbers. (Then again, I feel like I've been more widely validated on Tumblr in a week than I have on Insta in three years. My thanks to the lovely gremlins here.)
You can get surprisingly far with the phone camera even in suboptimal shooting conditions, however. Say a criminal was sitting by the lamp's light switch and was gonna throw me out the window if I didn't shoot with this exact setup...I could still get a better picture by making sure the focus was right and then tweaking the color temperature and brightness in the photo editor.
Still not perfect, of course. I could have tried even more for focus, and you can still tell this is a low-light photo.
Don't listen to the impulse to just use the flash for everything. That is Satan whispering in your ear.
Yes, it's bright and clear, but there's something uncanny, just a little, in my eye. The super stark shadow thrown behind Maudie makes the lighting feel as artificial as it is, and the flash doesn't actually brighten the scenery that much. Flash should be used for effect, not for neutral presentation.
Generally, the frustrating truth is that natural daylight really is ideal illumination for photography, but you can't tell it to stay around or reschedule it, so you have to be mindful of the seasons and light timing of your area, as well as extenuating weather that messes it up. Getting a good neutral full-room light should be sufficient for cases where natural daylight isn't available.
I get by with this artificial room-light setup pretty often, and it can be edited fairly well to match daytime photos if I want.
Sometimes I forget to turn off the warm bedside lamp, though, which subtly and disagreeably messes with the shadows and tint a bit.
My desk is neutral enough to serve as a non-distracting background. If you're on the next level of neutral display, you may have a sheet of paper unrolled from wall to floor to serve as a featureless white backdrop to put your subject on, which can be shot and boosted to make for a white void of isolation, but I don't have that right now and I'm okay without it.
Level 2: Pretty portraits
If you don't want to stage a scene but want a good picture, there are two big things to bring in--lighting design and backgrounds.
The very simplest background for a portrait, for me, is just black. While pure white is common in basic presentation, black is a dramatic, appealing option for a more artsy picture, and comes in handy if you work with spooky subjects like I do.
If you want an easy black background, what you're gonna want to do is buy a black craft board or deconstruct a cardboard box or something and paint it--just any reasonably rigid panel you can easily pick up and put down and lean against anything without it crumpling or slumping to the floor. If you paint your board, it does not have to be the blackest black, and go ahead and flip Anish Kapoor off, because you can easily darken the shadows and black out the backdrop in post with your phone editor. (The blacker the backdrop with the base shot, though, the less the rest of the image will be boosted in contrast when editing it darker. If the background isn't dark enough, you'll be boosting the shadows and contrast of the whole picture and changing the image significantly by the time the backdrop is a black void in the phone editor.) You can also color over spots with black digitally to tidy up the effect.
I also sometimes use a black velvet costume cape as the backdrop, but it attracts fur in my cat household like crazy and the logistics of hanging it are often obstructive and frustrating.
Here, however, I exploited the fur attraction by using pieces pilled on the cape to create the bubbles of this "underwater" shot as an in-camera effect!
Black cloth is easier to lay under the standing subject's feet than to hang vertically behind them, but this is useful to let the whole figure be photographed against black--otherwise, the surface they're standing on may not be part of the void. Two black boards at a right angle, a board behind and a cloth below, or a board behind and an already-black surface below can create a full black void background. If your subject has a lot of black coloring and you don't want their silhouette to be too absorbed into the background, you can light them just a little bit to catch the edges of their hair and clothes or sculpt or whatnot and make them more separate from the black void behind them.
If you want to have the subject as just a head on black background, most dolls are small enough to fit into a black sock that can cover their body and isolate their head, which will black out into pure shadow along with the background in post. Otherwise, wrapping with other black fabric is an option.
And I can't say enough for colored/patterned fabrics and printed craft papers to make a portrait more lively.
Every month, I'm liable to get another batch of printed paper sheets that suddenly are relevant to one of my subjects, though many return in circulation as useful designs. The really big sheets of printed/patterned paper, or matte-texture wrapping papers, are also treasures for staging larger pictures with. Most wrapping papers are glossed, which can be tricky to photograph.
Draped fabric and visible folds can be your background if that's your desired effect.
Next is lighting. I use small light sources (a mini desk lamp, a color-changing remote-control night light, a headlamp with multiple brightnesses and a red setting, and a blacklight flashlight) to affect the coloring and light angle of a photo. This can make pictures look lush, dramatic, warm, cold, sinister, or eerie depending on your coloring and how you light something.
Color can also be drawn out of regular light sources by using a colored sheet as a filter over the bulb. If I want two colored lights interplaying, I use the nightlight on one color and can add in the desk lamp with construction paper over the LED for another color.
The best way to color a light source would be colored cellophane sheets that wouldn't dim the light, so I'll need to look into that.
Black-and-white photography is sexy as hell when you've done something cool with your lighting, so always test a black-and-white edit or shoot of a setup if you've done lighting stuff!
As a human, your available hands should be limited to two maximum, so wrangling your lights can be difficult alongside your camera. Having lights rigged on poseable arms or stands or a tripod for your camera can help make sure everything is working as you want. I'm still working on that.
You can also use candles for lighting, though they typically don't illuminate as starkly or dramatically as you might hope, and they have an obvious fire risk. Still, in some circumstances, even paired with colored light...
(The cauldron is the candle).
Blacklight is always fun when you have a subject that pops under it, but the phone camera hates it and good damn luck making your pictures look like what you're actually seeing. If you find success, though, it's great.
The last thing is phone filters. Download the free ones available to create a palette you can scroll through in the edit. Any picture could perhaps be transformed and elevated by a specific filter effect.
So you want to show an actual scene with story or sense of place. Well, this can be done! My first tip is generally to favor indoor environments to set photo concepts in, just because those are easier to stage, outdoors has a lot of scenery that obviously belies the scale of the toy, and you might unjustly look like a creep carrying your dolls around and taking photos where people can see you. I also like working with the indoors because you can exploit a living space to create your "set" and reduce your work. Look for details and textures in the building you live in, and architectural features that could be reinterpreted for doll-scale scenery. For example, this bathroom set for Sadie to summon Bloody Mary in consisted of furniture crafted myself and poster-board walls, but the floor is the actual floor of my bathroom.
If you have room corners in your house you can use for room corners in tiny scale, use them.
Walls can be changed with printed paper temporarily hung up for photos' sake, or else you can make foam-board walls to set the parameters of your photoshoot room and paint or paper them how you like. Remember, you're only shooting for the camera frame. It doesn't have to be real. This was my horror barbershop setup on the inside, with a red windmill blade outside the window.
And this was the outside of the cardboard wall.
Only one blade of the mill was made, and the window was frosted cling wrap with stretched yarn forming the panes.
Furniture can be sourced through dollhouse avenues. Most fashion dolls and Living Dead Dolls fall in the 1/6 scale, and big doll brands typically have bespoke furniture you can source for very easy set dressing matched to them. Small dolls are typically 1/12 scale, and some dolls are irregular scales and hard to set for. Use these two common scales as search terms when looking for options if you've gotten something that seems compatible. There are other established dollhouse scales which are smaller. These scales have range and the proportions and style of the doll can affect how some furniture works. LDD and Monster High are very different shapes and MH furniture doesn't easily cross over to LDD.
Some furniture can easily be crafted or faked at home by assembling parts together. Tables are really simple so long as you have a reasonably sturdy panel and something to stand it on. Oven-bake clay slabs and wooden dowel legs also work well for tables. At my jankiest, I even put a ribbon spool on some Tinker Toys and glued some fabric to shape on top of it for a circular table I needed! With any set dressing, the more details you can include, the better the image will scan. Think about what's around you in real environments and use fabrics and doll accessories and whatever human-scale objects you can repurpose and reframe to make a scene more elaborate and believable. In the bathroom photo above, I used doll accessory pieces to show bathroom amenities selling the location better. In the barbershop, I used a Create-a-Monster doll as a macabre coat rack, included a door to the shop, and a sink and a broken mirror. The living room before that was dressed with multiple dollhouse pieces. Arrange and add and test photos and compositions to see what looks best.
If you do shoot outside, look for walls and natural features that are good for staging a setting with. It's harder to create outdoor "sets", but you can find small scenes in nature and buildings, and with creativity, you can do great things. If you have the opportunity to go "on location" during travel, embrace it!
You can also fully cheat the scenery and put your toy in front of a photo on a screen, but the size of the screen vastly limits the proportions of doll to background.
(If I could go to space just to photograph a Martian troll doll, there really wouldn't be any stopping me.)
I'm not the person to give technical advice on composition and framing (how to arrange the subject in the frame of the camera and make the tableau work inside the rectangle). Do look up the rule of thirds for basic official guidance, but I've really kind of eyeballed things myself this whole time based on instinctual "that looks good" or "that's not right".
Don't have an underwater? Make an underwater out of a tub in your basement, tie that doll sucker down with fishing line, and use colored dye powder to cloud the tank and hide the edges!
Make a whole tea table setting for your dolls! Five unique times!
Wait for snow and stage an icy pond by digging a hole and covering it with glass!
Build your dolls snowmen!
Edit your dolls into scenery digitally!
Paint whole fanart pieces and use them as physical props in your photoshoot!
Reflect your ghost characters off glass and stage the reflection in the scene (Pepper's Ghost effect; look it up!)
Turn your photos into dollhouse props and then turn the dollhouse into photo scenery!
Sculpt props themed on a character and photograph just those rather than the toy they're crafted for!
Remove vampires from reflections!
Write in-universe fictional documents staged as photographic visual recreations, like old newspapers!
(These are all things I've done, have published or will publish, and have run out of space to show in this post--it's there on Teatime Tangents and Toys. Good lord.)
Side discipline: Toy posing
This could come in at any level I've discussed, but some toys are easier to display than others. Fashion dolls are top-heavy and skinny-legged (and could have wobbly knees like poor Maudie), making it difficult to stand them unassisted, and staging could require some clever props to lean them on or some reworking so they'll be stable enough to shoot with. Some dolls stand easily but pose less and require their own workarounds to display well. Watch out for hair; it is so easy to miss some distracting stray strands in photos until after you've packed up the shoot, and scrutinize all of your shots to make sure there aren't unwanted elements spoiling the take before it's too late. Take multiple shots with minor variations if you're unsure about some setups just so you have options you can sift through in the edit, or even easy ways to test filters and experiment with extra pictures.
You don't need much budget to create prettier photos that still don't reward you much on Insta honestly get people on Tumblr feral-shrieking their excitement (thank you sincerely to everyone who has so far; it is the most enriching thing.) If you know how to light and focus and jazz up a space a little, you'll go a long way. Then again, developing skill will draw you into the photos becoming a genuine budget-ensnaring creative pursuit roping you into projects you never dreamed of--BUT you will be making great things from them!
