Wines of Etna, Sicily - Overview
Among the few outstanding classic wine regions of the World, I’m still struggling to see full credits given to some over other overpriced and famous areas, which is to me extremely sad.
What does, you ask, a classic wine region fit into?
Well, I tend to mostly think of European regions as such with some historical relevance, winemaking legacy tied to the area or in another words, carrying some identity. So again, quite the blurry definition.
Nowadays, to most wine drinkers, Piedmont in Italy (Barolo, Barbaresco), Burgundy in France or Rioja in Spain, would most certainly be considered as such.
But what about other up-and-coming areas that have yet to get the proper recognition they deserve?
Yes, Etna, I’m talking about you.
Mount Etna in Sicily, remote archipelago just a boat trip away from mainland Italy, has sadly stolen the spotlight for erupting numerous times over the past decades and wiping out all traces of past civilization behind… Over its wine.
Although Sicily as an island was made famous in the 19th century for wine such as Marsala (West side of the island) or Passito di Pantelleria, a sudden drop in marketshare, interests around the WW2-era took place as fortified wine was falling out of fashion and wine such as Barolo, Amarone took over.
Fast forward to the 1980’s, although other under-the-radar areas saw investments coming in such as Angelo GAJA in Tuscany, looking for a cheaper alternative to estate expansions but somehow, most of Sicily remained unnoticed…Until the late 1990’s.
Vineyards, since the 1880’s, had been part of Mount Etna’s landscape but it was not until the late part of the 20th century that Mount Etna, as a wine region, had the chance to shine.
As well-established, powerful investors with a winemaking background moved down to Etna and purchased vineyards (F. Cornelissen from Belgium or M. de Grazia from Tuscany) while regional government started to funnel funds towards preserving Etna’s terroir in replanting its vines, suddenly interests grew.
But let’s focus on volcano talk.
Mount Etna is fascinating.
Today’s highest mountain in Italy South of the Alps, the volcano benefits from an extremely diverse terroir and very few grape varieties, only showing their true potential on highly-elevated vineyards.
Indeed, All of its area under vine curves around the volcano and cools down a bit up North, warming up as one makes its way down South.
With some of its highest vineyards up at over 1200m, day and night temperature gap become greater and the wines salty, crisper and almost crystalline…
Over time, as Mount Etna unleashed and left villages destroyed, it also spread lava, volcanic ashes and sand along the way, slowly covering all of its surrounding area and making it extremely fertile for winegrowing.
Indeed, as all other European regions had their vineyards wiped out to phylloxera along with Sicily in the 1950’s, Mount Etna was blessed with disease-free soils. Sandy-based volcanic soils indeed have properties keeping the bug away, which means that some of the highest-located vines today remained alive from back in the day and are approaching, for some, 200 years old.
By some, the area is also sometimes looked at as Burgundy as location for growing grapes around the volcano is key and all of historically-grown grape varieties have remained the same over centuries.
Today, mainly two styles of wine can be found on Mount Etna.
--> Etna Rosso DOC: Made of a blend of Nerello Mascalese (80-95%) and Nerello Cappuccio (5-20%), this has come to be the ‘classic’ flagship style of wine for reds.
N. Mascalese brings the power and grittiness while N. Cappuccio color and softer aromas.
Extremely compelling bottlings can be found today (some of them on ungrafted vines) delivering on the power, juiciness but mostly finesse and subtlety of the blend:
TENUTA DELLE TERRE NERRE - Prephylloxera
--> Etna Bianco DOC: Focused here on the Carricante (60-100%) and Catarratto (0-40%) blend, both extremely old varieties.
Wines, in this case, stand out for their light citrus peel aromas, quietness, saltiness and high acidity (depending on winemaker style and location for site).
Carricante comes in here as the main grape for flavor compounds and high acidity, while Catarratto rounds it out and brings balance to the blend:
As a side note, Etna Rosato and Etna Spumante (mostly made of Nerello Mascalese) can also be found today but very little is produced every year, as producers tend to put an emphasis on Etna Bianco/Rosso.
If you haven’t been sold on the region yet, I please beg you to book a tour around the vineyards and the area as what better vacation than wandering around an active volcano followed by wine tastings?
I would maybe just pull away from being anywhere the volcano on eruption day.
As I mentioned before, the area is very much on the rise as expansion is underway, winemakers fine-tune their style and wines make their marks on the market, so patience is key here.