The Croatia Chronicles

Writings & photos from the Adriatic coast

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New Blog Home

Now blogging at: www.thecroatiachronicles.com (and via Instagram). Looking forward to connecting with you!

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European Adventures -- a photo collection of places I went this year including Munich, Istanbul, Trieste, Amsterdam, Leverkusan, Solingen, and Cologne

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A Year of Croatia -- a collection of my favorite photos from fall 2012 to summer 2013

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A Year in Rovinj -- a collection of my favorite photos

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It’s Time to Say Goodbye…For Now

Today is my last full day in Croatia. Tomorrow I leave on an 8:30 am flight which I’ll have to wake up for at 4:30 in the morning to make it all the way to the Zagreb airport on time.

General Thoughts & Feelings

It doesn’t feel like the end and I’m not quite sure how it has already come to this point. It feels premature and I have a constant yearning to keep holding on to it like a pre-teen child still clinging to her baby blanket. Everything feels all wrong now, as if I’m being cheated somehow. Perhaps that’s in part because I usually spend an entire summer in Zagorje while now I’ll be leaving just after a week and half here, which is far too soon. Many plans with friends and family never materialized and so now have to be put on hold until my next visit which will hopefully last much longer.

Just like when I arrived in Croatia last year, I again am a mess of emotions, which I know is due to being on the cusp of another move, another change. Seems like all I’ve encountered this year is change after change and all I desire is some time to myself to just stand still, but I’m not even afforded that because that’s life, isn’t it? It doesn’t stop for anyone.

I feel anxious, frustrated, a tad excited, and mostly sad. It typically depends on the day as sometimes I’m more optimistic than others. On these particular days, I see the opportunities in my return to the States, new adventures to be had. Then on the other days, which have prevailed most recently, I just feel numb and tired.

I always hate leaving Croatia. It’s never been just a place of vacation, especially now that I’ve lived and worked here for a year. It’s one of my four great loves (yes, I have four). It feels natural to be here and I feel better, am better, for being here. It’s a home I can never manage to say goodbye to. I do, of course, but without a sense of closure. Leaving is a wound that only heals when I return again. So I guess that means I’ll just have to come back again, eh? : )

It’s tough for me to write any of this right now. I stop every few sentences cold and get lost in hazy thoughts. So instead of trying to articulate how I feel, which doesn’t seem to be going so well, I’ll just work from past to present and see what surfaces.

A Look Back

Oh the beginning. Oh how it was tough. Sometimes unbearably so. Anyone who goes abroad to teach tells you it was hard at first, but that’s all they say, hard. It’s like everything they went through boils down to that one word, but it’s not a strong word, it’s a filler, meaningless. I remember conversations with other previous overseas teachers and looking back on them now I just want to shake them and say, “STOP TELLING PEOPLE IT WAS HARD THIS, HARD THAT.” Yes, it was hard, great, wonderful, but what else? Why was it hard?

So now I’ll tell you. But bear in mind that everyone’s experiences are different and the difficulties they encounter vary in context and duration. For me, it was hard because:

I had no formal teaching experience, aside from a TEFL certificate which I obtained after 130 hours of coursework and some student teaching and classroom observation.

I had no formal, organized guidance or orientation. I was literally thrown into teaching and my shelves were piled high with books and resources I didn’t understand how to approach but had to figure out mostly on my own in a week’s time before classes began.

There was a different working culture and environment to deal with which I would probably never encounter in the U.S.

The Croatian administrative/legal system was discouraging and drawn out. I spent a month going to the police station to be told each week that I needed to obtain some other new document before anything could be processed.

I was far away not only from U.S. family and friends, but also from Croatian family and friends, which I had hoped would be more accessible to me upon my arrival but proved to be nearly as out of reach as everyone in America.

I caught bouts of homesickness every now and then, which was natural and usually a direct result of all the stress I encountered.

It was very lonely for a long time, which exacerbated the stress. I was didn’t start making friends until my contract was half-way over in January.

“There is always something,” according to Croats, and there certainly was always something new and stressful to deal with, often on a daily basis.

I had trouble explaining certain new vocabulary words to students because that’s just not my forte in any situation so I often felt like I was failing them.

I had quite a few difficult students, some of which would never stop talking, some that didn’t come to class frequently and others that got crazy frustrated in an instant.

I had a very chatty and rambunctious teenage group that required me to constantly figure out new behavior management strategies and often I just felt like giving up, yet never did.

I also had a class of 10 and 12-year-olds and well, I’m not a kid person so I often didn’t understand how best to connect with them.

I had to balance my student’s needs with my school’s unfamiliar expectations and methodologies.

Some days it just felt so hopeless and at one point the stress got so bad that my body started to be physically affected by it.

So that’s generally why it was such a hard beginning for me. Of course there’s more to this list, stories that if you ask me I’ll tell you about, but I feel like I’ve given a fairly decent overview of the difficulties I encountered. And it wasn’t just hard, it was hellish.

But I got through it all, somehow. The trick? There isn’t any trick; it’s just a matter of continuing despite all the difficulties, all the crap. It’s much harder said than done but if you just keep pushing, the end will come and you’ll be so much stronger for getting through it.

And it helped too, that once most of the difficulties were overcome after a few months, once the half-way point past, the real fun began. So now here’s why I’m glad I stayed and powered through all the ridiculous work and stress:

I learned new facts and tidbits about Croatia by being immersed in its culture.

I traveled and got to see parts of the world, people, and cultures I wouldn’t have experienced otherwise. I traveled around Croatia’s Istrian peninsula, to Slovenia, to Trieste, to Istanbul, to Amsterdam, and to Germany twice.

I became friends with amazing people who I always had a wonderful time with, who showed me how to embrace the relaxed Croatian lifestyle and to embrace new experiences.

I ended up loving all my classes and my students, many of whom I hope will keep in touch.

I learned how to deal with high stress situations and now feel like I can handle anything the world throws at me.

I learned how to laugh, really laugh, and see the endless potential life has for jokes and good times.

I learned how to shed parts of my old self to make room for improvements which have allowed me to become a strong, mature, well-rounded adult.

While the bullet points on this list don’t outnumber the ones from my previous list, what they contain is far more valuable. All the tough times now remain as distant memories while what I gained as a result of them has stayed close to my heart and ultimately will be what I’ll remember fondly for years to come.

A Look Forward

Now here I am, still in my PJs and already sticky from the crazy heat and humidity wave that has hit Croatia this week. By forcing myself to reflect back on the past year and write about it, I think to myself, “Look at what you’ve done! How far you’ve come! Bravo!” It’s like I’m having a pep talk going on inside my head, and its pretty great.

So how do I feel now? A bit better than when I started the post. A bit more open to greeting the end and a new beginning. But what does this new beginning entail? Seeing my lovely Michigan family and friends again, but beyond that I have no idea, really. I mean when I return to Michigan I’ll begin an internship for the Michigan League of Conservation Voters, start back up working for Like Croatia, and write more freelance articles for One Green Planet. Yet I’m completely lost as to what will happen after my internship ends in August. My hope? A real full-time job that’ll allow me to work towards my personal mission of building a more sustainable and humane world. The reality? A long job search process that’ll end with a silent inbox and phone line and me screaming at the world, “JUST HIRE ME ALREADY. I’M AWESOME & I’LL SURPRISE YOU & YOU’LL BE GLAD YOU HIRED ME.” And then I’ll bang my fists on the table. Bah. It’s back to the drawing board, I guess. Fingers crossed.

I’ll try to stay optimistic. And I’ll try to immerse myself in the work and life I really want to lead. Like all new beginnings, it’ll be tough. But I can do tough now. I can do more than tough. So give me your best shot, world, and I’ll make something beautiful out of it in return.

And well, if all else fails then as I’ve said before, I’ll be back, Croatia, I’ll be back. : )

[thecroatiachronicles]

Biking, Waffles, and Chocolate -- My Week in Germany

I am lucky enough to have an awesome friend in Germany who was willing to host me earlier this June. I stayed with Maria for a week and a day and she showed me parts of Germany many visitors might never see, for which I am grateful. Don’t get me wrong, I like to go to my share of touristy sites, but I much prefer to have a relaxed stay and get a real feel for a country by seeing more of its lesser visited, everyday features.

Leverkusen

Most of the time I spent in Germany was in Maria’s hometown, Leverkusen, where the large pharmaceutical company, Bayer has its headquarters. It’s a cute town that nudges up against the Rhine River. The houses which line its streets looked like they popped right out of Harry Potter, or at least to me they did. Everything in Leverkusen is easily accessible by bike or bus or even a long walk, which made getting around a real pleasure.

One of the first activities we did when I arrived was go on a bike tour. I hadn’t been on a bike in years at that point and didn’t think I would have the stamina to finish the tour. To my surprise, it was probably the best bike trip I’d ever been on and inspired me to go on more bike trips in the future. It was relaxed and leisurely so I was able to really see her town and what it had to offer.

Our first stop was Neulandpark. It was a little slice of nature right in the middle of the suburbs. In its forested grounds, you can bike or walk along different dirt paths or check out the wild and farm animals that are housed there. They have adorable porcupines and storks as well as goats, which you can feed, and sheep among other wild and farm animals. It was refreshing to see that a semi-industrial town had a quiet space to get away from it all.

After Neulandpark, we biked to another park, Tierpark Reuschenberg, which once was a Bayer landfill but is now a lush green rolling landscape with artsy structures like a Chinese-style gazebo and a Dutch windmill. Then we made our way to the Rhine River walk where you can see the Bayer factory in the distance. Part of the walkway was under water due to the remnants of heavy flooding in more northern areas. The area seemed like a nice place for a picnic or lying out in the grass with a good book, soaking up some sun.

In addition to Leverkusen’s parks, Maria showed me around Kleingartenverein Feierabend, where we had a BBQ at her family’s garden house. Kleingartenverein Feierabend is a collection of gardens which are owned by families in the area. Since many people live in apartments there often isn’t any room for a garden and so this area serves to fulfill that need. I’ve seen plenty of community gardens, but this place is not quite the same as each garden is separated from the others and is accompanied by a cute little house, which is used mainly for entertainment purposes, not for sleeping. It’s a cool concept and it was a delight to see all the amazing gardens.

In Leverkusen, I of course also went shopping and even stopped in TKMaxx, the European TJMaxx, and found two amazing pairs of shoes. TJMaxx always delivers, even in Europe. Woohoo. Maria also took me to one of her Zumba classes, which is the first time I tried it. At first I couldn’t figure out the steps until half-way through each song but it got easier as the hour went on. It was a lot of fun and the music was great. I’d definitely like to try it again.

Soligen

Nearby Leverkusen is Soligen, which is a small town in the county which is home to a medieval castle called Scholß Burg. Here, we walked through the castle’s grounds and its rooms, which now are museum exhibits. The first room we entered was the jail, which was quite dark and didn’t have much in it. Then we noticed a few other rooms were closed off and so we thought there might not be much to see. To our surprise, the museum was actually a good size. In order to see every room, you had to climb through the whole castle so it really felt like we were covering a lot of ground. The museum featured exhibits about the how people once lived there as well as the history of the castle and the general area. My favorite part was the view of the surrounding area you see when you make it to the top of the castle. To me there’s just something astounding about seeing a landscape view; I can’t quite put my finger on it.

As we walked away from the castle, we decided to go on the little ski-lift ride that took you from the top to bottom of the town. Neither of us had been on one before, so it was a fun experience. We opted for the one-way ticket since we don’t mind walking. But what we didn’t realize was that the walk was like a mile or so away from where we started. It always sucks when you think a walk’s gonna end and then it doesn’t.

Once we finally got back to the top of the town, we naturally went for waffles on a cute little hillside café. I ordered a cinnamon-sugar waffle, which came piled with a whipped cream, and hot chocolate, which arrived in its own little teapot. Adorable! A perfect waffle meal.

Cologne

One of the last places Maria took me to during my stay was Cologne, or Köln in German. It’s a lovely, lively city that is just the right size, not too big, not too small. The bridge to the main part of Cologne features a long fence which is covered with love locks set in place by couples over the last few years. I thought it made an otherwise ordinary bridge something special.

Once we made it to the other side, we stopped at Cologne’s famous cathedral which was architecturally stunning and had beautiful stained glass. After, we made our way through the city to discover all Roman ruins lying around from towers to wall fragments. It’s cool how the ruins are incorporated into the surrounding architecture so it’s easy to happen upon it them.

We also went shopping here, where I bought perhaps more than I should have but what’s new. We also had a traditional German meal at one of Cologne’s most well known beer houses. It was delicious and super filling and the beer was a nice way to wash it all down.

After lunch we reached what became my very favorite stop, the chocolate museum. It was glorious. The museum itself was laid out nicely and wasn’t too large. It started with the history of chocolate and where it’s currently produced, which I was happy to see included quite a bit of information about the social issues behind it. Then came exhibits about chocolate production itself and led into the production room, which was the best. We got to see how the chocolate was turned from its liquid stage into bars, molds, and truffles. We even got to taste the rich, silky Lindt chocolate sauce and the server even give us extra chocolate dipped wafers. It was so so good. Mmm. I don’t think I’ve tasted chocolate so creamy.

At the factory you can make your own custom Lindt chocolate bar so we naturally jumped at the opportunity. I got a milk chocolate one made with chopped hazelnuts, coco nibs, marshmallows, and rice crisps. Yum! And it wasn’t too expensive, just 4.50 Euros.

After we pulled ourselves away from the production room and out of the museum we headed for the gift shop which of course was pretty much only filled chocolate. There was seriously every kind of chocolate imaginable from all the best German brands. There was chocolate pizza, chocolate beer, chocolate liquor, various hot chocolate flavors, molded chocolate, chocolate sticks, and tons of chocolate bars. It was heaven. I spent more than I ever have on chocolate, almost 30 Euros. I’m almost embarrassed to admit that but then again, who knows if I’ll ever come back to the chocolate museum. Plus, chocolate is always worth it.

Overall, I had a wonderful time in Germany, discovering Leverkusen, Soligen, and Cologne and can’t wait to come back sometime in the future! : )

[thecroatiachronicles]

Croat Chit-Chat with Matea Dušić

Matea Dušić is 27 years old and lives in Rovinj on the west coast of Istria, a penninsula in Croatia. She currently works as a teacher of Italian language in an elementary school and teaches children from 8 to 14 years of age. She graduated in Zadar as teacher of English and Italian language and literature, and therefore also teaches English in a private language school. In her free time, she likes to go on walks, go swimming in the summer, listen to music, and read good books. Her favorite place to go on a walk or a swim is the forest park, Punta Corrente in Rovinj, where she has been enjoying its clean sea and beaches since she was a kid.

Matea in Mali Losinj

1. What is your favorite place to visit in Croatia, and why?

My favorite place to visit in Croatia is Plitvice Lakes National Park. There are still a lot of places I haven't visited yet, so this is my favorite for now. It has 16 beautiful lakes and rich vegetation. I love going in the spring because it is gorgeous to walk along the lakes, admire the falls and enjoy the wilderness. In the summer time there are a lot of tourists so to me it's not as nice, but still worth the trip.

2. What places or sites would you recommend to a tourist visiting Croatia, and why?

I would definitely recommend Plitvice Lakes since they are my favorite. Also, the region of Gorski Kotar offers a lot of activities for those who like hiking or like to be in touch with nature. The whole region of Istria is very specific because it offers so many different things in different areas. On the coast you can enjoy the sun and the sea, eat excellent fish and drink high quality white wine. In the inlands, you can taste some famous Istrian specialties, like pršut, sausages, cabbage, maneštra (a type of soup), local pasta and meat specialties. Everything is home-made, and accompanied by excellent red wine. Croatia has a lot of things to offer, it all depends on what you're in to.

3. Do you have any favorite Croatian writers, poets, artists, actors, or musicians? If so, who are they and what are some of their notable works (or works of theirs you admire)?

I haven't read many Croatian literary works so I cannot recommend any authors or any good books, since I like to read books in English to practice it a bit more. From musicians, I like Oliver Dragojević, Toni Cetinski, and Hari Rončević. In the last couple of years, a type of singing called klape has become very popular and I enjoy listening to them too.

Rovinj

4. Which Croatian people have you come to admire in your life (political, artistic, familial or otherwise)?

I don't like politicians very much, especially not the ones leading our country. The people in Croatia that I admire are all the hard-working people, especially those who in the last years have struggled to keep their jobs and feed their families in spite of the fact that the government doesn't care much for them. What I admire the most is that we are always ready to help people in need, especially when a child needs an operation accessible only in America. While the government is dealing with paperwork about whether the child has the right for treatment in a different country, treatment that will possibly save his/her life, the people in Croatia raise the money so that the parents can privately go and help their child. That is what I admire the most – giving even when they don't have enough.

5. What changes do you hope to see made in Croatia?

I hope that there will be more work for young people in Croatia because it doesn't look very positive now. There are a lot of people with higher education that cannot find a job or have to work as a waiter because that is all they can find, and only for the summer time. I hope that the government won't lie to people anymore, steal from them and will try to make their life better. I hope that finally our paychecks will increase and the costs of living will lower. I hope that there will be more middle class people, and not only those extremely rich and extremely poor.

6. Where do you see the country in 10 years?

I can be very pessimistic or optimistic about this. But let me try be realistic. We are entering the EU in about 2 weeks. I am hoping the prices won't go sky-high and that it will be really better for us all. But it really depends on the EU itself because they are not in a good place right now, which makes our destiny even more uncertain. So I don't know – an honest answer.

7. If you could tell someone just one thing about Croatia, what would you want to tell them?

You have to come and discover by yourself all that the people in this country have to offer. You will be amazed!

Mali Losinj

8. What is your favorite country dish or food?

I love pršut, Istrain pasta and fish. These are my favorites and especially if they are home-made, you just cannot stop eating them!

9. What do you love about Croatia?

Since I live on the sea, I have to say that I adore the sea and the nature around it. What I also like are the people who are very friendly and ready to help. Sometimes you will find people who are not like that and can be quite different, but in general the people in Croatia are open and friendly. Unfortunately, there are still some areas where people are quite conservative and narrow-minded when it comes to some modern topics, like gay rights.

10. What is your favorite Croatian saying or expression?

I don't have a favorite saying, but what I like about Croatia is it's different dialects. It amazes me how we can have such different words in different areas of  Croatia, so much so that a person from Istria and one from Zagorje cannot understand each other when speaking in their dialects or local language.

11. How did you begin working as a tour guide?/What influenced you to begin working as a tour guide?

I wanted to try something new, and I wanted to make use of my knowledge of languages and practice them a bit more. I went to a course and then started working for  a tourist agency from Rabac. The following year I worked for an agency from Poreč and I traveled a bit more, which was exciting. I love meeting new people and talking to them, although it can get difficult to satisfy everybody.

12. What is the most unusual thing a tourist has asked you during a tour?

The most unusual thing was when a tourist from England woke me up at 6 am to find the number of his doctor and hospital in England to call her because he was sure that his wife will put him in a hospital as soon as they come back home since he was schizophrenic and she wanted to put him on medication. I couldn't believe that situation and even today it amazes me.

13. Can you share any fun facts with us about Croatia that you have learned being a tour guide?

I learned that the stones in the old town of Rovinj had a purpose when it was a fisherman town. All the stones are horizontal and there are only two lines that go vertically up the street called Grisia. These stone lines were used by the men when they came back  home after all day at sea. Since the only thing that they were drinking was white wine and water (called bevanda) they were a little drunk when they came back, so these lines were used to find there home – something to follow.

Rovinj sunset

14. What would be your ideal tour to give in Croatia?

My ideal tour would be with a group of 8 to 10 visitors. This number is the best because you can explain everything to the visitors and dedicate yourself to them and discover their interests, and therefore adjust your guiding to what they want to know. There are many places to visit in Croatia, so I would probably concentrate on the northern part of the Adriatic since it fascinates me the most.

We would start with the visit around Rovinj and Pula, then continue to a small village in the central part of Istria so the visitors can see different areas of this region, as well as to taste some of the specialties. We would spend the night in Opatija, and the next morning do some sightseeing of this town. Afterwards we would go to the island of Krk, visit its most known places and of course taste the wine. The second night would also be spent on the island.

The third day would be reserved for two more island – Cres and Lošinj, not just visiting the centers but also some local places of interest like the Beli reservation of birds, especially griffons on the island of Cres, and the reservations of dolphins on the island of Lošinj. If we take this tour during the summer months, I would also organize a day on the sea so that the visitors can enjoy our beautiful clear water. After that we would visit Zadar and spend probably two days there, and finish the tour with Croatia's most famous national park, Plitvice Lakes, because I believe they must be seen.

On the way back, I would also want the visitors to see the Museum of Nikola Tesla, so they can get to know some famous Croatian people. The whole trip would last for approximately 8 days and we would use a small van, of course with air conditioning.  If possible, I would find local restaurants for lunch or dinner so that the tourists could really taste and experience Croatia.

15. What is the best memory you’ve had working as a tour guide?

My best memories are all the places I have been able to see, and even though that hasn't been many, I have still enjoyed all my travels thus far. What I also liked was meeting and talking to a lot of different people, hearing their stories, thoughts of Croatia and even encouragements about my future work. I got to practice my English, experience new things, worry about whether everybody was ok and feeling happy when they got back to the hotel safe and sound, and most importantly hearing that everyone was so pleased. That was the best reward.

[thecroatiachronicles]

A is for Awesome, A is for Amsterdam

If I were to make a list of my favorite world cities, Amsterdam would probably be right near the top of it. I’ve been to the city’s airport on my way to Croatia more times than I can count, but until last week I had never walked its streets.

As most cities, Amsterdam is full of people and endless amusements. Yet even with a population of 820,654, Amsterdam achieves what many other cities can’t—it keeps up a busy appearance but underneath stays calm, cool, collected. You’ll see people at all hours of the day and shops open late into the night but everything goes at a steady pace, no hustle-and-bustle needed. Moreover, while Amsterdam is a popular tourist destination (I saw and heard plenty of foreign visitors), tourists didn’t stick out here. Everyone blended together and became one with the city life, as if Amsterdam was home to each of us, even if just for a little while.

I traveled to Amsterdam via rail with my good friend, Maria, who I was visiting in Germany, as well as one of her hometown friends. We only stayed in Amsterdam for a night and two days, but it felt like we were there for so much longer as we were able to see and experience most of what the city had to offer during our short stay. Looking at a map, I can firmly saw that we walked the entire central portion of the city in just two days. Now this might seem like a lot, as if it was a rushed visit, but on the contrary it wasn’t like that at all. We walked a lot, yes, but it was a leisurely stroll through the city, where we hopped in and out of Amsterdam’s chic boutiques and did the customary stops in local cafes, as no European visit is ever complete with a coffee stop or two.

We walked along Amsterdam’s famous shopping street, Kalverstraat, which is packed with all the best European stores. While, C&A, H&M, Mango, and Zara are always on my must-go list, I also discovered the glory that is HEMA. For US natives, it’s like the Dutch version of Target. I wouldn’t necessarily go there for the clothes; go instead for the baking supplies, snacks, and makeup. The store offers a selection of cake/cupcake toppings along with mini packets of fondant and marzipan, each for under four Euros. HEMA also has some great store-brand snacks, which I snagged on my way to the register. Their muesli biscuits are tasty pre- and post- meal treats as are their cheese balls, which are filled with Ritz-like cheese. Yum! And while I didn’t end up buying any makeup since I already have a ridiculous amount I don’t even use, HEMA had a fairly large variety to choose from with products at very affordable prices.

In addition to shopping, we walked to the farmer's market and the flower market. I was impressed by how large the farmer's market was. We didn’t manage to make it all the way down its street, but we did walk a good portion of it. There, you can find cheap eats, less costly cheese than in the city’s cheese shops, nut and chocolate stands, freshly baked bread, inexpensive clothes, shoes, and jewelry, and wigs, if you need them.

Much like the main market, the flower market offers an equally impressive selection. You can find almost any type of flower imaginable there. All stalls had the traditional Dutch tulip bulbs (some even packaged in a cute little wooden shoe) and a wide variety of seeds to choose from. Other stalls even offered exotic flower varieties that I hadn’t even seen or heard of in my life.

On the last day of our stay, inspired by all the boats we saw on the water, we opted for a boat ride instead of a walk. We rented a paddle-boat near Anne Frank’s house and rode around for an hour through the city’s canals. This was probably one of my favorite parts of our trip. It was nice to experience Amsterdam from a different perspective and see all the cute houseboats docked along the sides of the canals. Also, I loved watching the city’s residents go by in their boats packed with friends laughing, drinking, and eating together.

Another site I loved in Amsterdam was seeing all the cyclists! The city is so bike-friendly that there’s even a separate street for them between the main road and sidewalk. Biking is by far the best way to get around the city, and I would recommend renting a bike if you plan to visit. Along with the cyclists, it was also a pleasure to see families and friends eating outside their apartments right on the city’s sidewalks.

And of course, a trip to Amsterdam wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the Red Light District. We actually stumbled upon it in the afternoon on our way back from an Indian restaurant in the city’s Chinatown. During the day, the Red Light District just seems like a normal street, except for the occasional half-naked woman in a window. We decided that we had to experience the area at night as well since that’s really when it comes to life.

Around 9:00 pm, we headed out again to the Red Light District. It was just beginning to fill up with people, both men and women alike. Many of its bars were already quite full, and the district’s sex theaters had begun their nightly entertainment. Red-lit shop windows on the main street and alleys were up-and-running with women clothed in flashy, barely there lingerie, enticing men to enter. The writer in me really wanted to sit down with one of them and ask loads of questions about their choice of profession and way of life. I didn’t get the chance to this time but maybe one day I will.

I was actually surprised by how small Amsterdam’s Red Light District was. It’s talked about around the world but to me didn’t really live up to all the hype. It was intriguing, yes, but after a couple blocks, it ended and so all we could do was move on. I had hoped there would have been at least some kind of chic nightclub or something, but it was mainly some windows of women, about five or six sex theaters, a few bars, and some sex shops. I’m glad I went and I think it’s a must-see as there aren’t many other cities with such districts, but I wouldn’t consider it one of my most favorite stops.

Overall, I was extremely delighted with my little trip. To put it succinctly: Amsterdam is awesome. It’s fun but also has pockets of tranquility. It’s a city you are welcome to feel at ease in and I hope to visit Amsterdam again in the future.

[thecroatiachronicles]

You Know You’re in Zagorje When…

1. There is a constant stream of desserts that appear in your house courtesy of your relatives.

2. You eat the aforementioned dessert for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, even after you’re stuffed.

3. You hear roosters crowing, cows mooing, and pigs snorting at all hours of the day.

4. You see big, red tractors driving on the main road (the one main road, might I add) alongside semis and sedans.

5. Your neighbor’s ducks (or turkeys or geese or chickens) waddle in a neat little line into your lawn, quack-quacking the whole time to one another as if in deep, meaningful conversation (and who knows, perhaps they are solving world hunger and the economic crisis).

6. The rolling hills and lush greenery confirm that you are now in the fairytale land of your childhood storybooks.

7. You hear words like hiža, race, zahod, spominati, brbljanje, and paradajz all the time and eventually fall in love with the local country dialect. (Word translations: house, ducks, bathroom, to talk, chatting, tomato)

8. You receive a pile (and I mean a real, hulking pile) of food on your plate—at a local restaurant or at your grandma’s—that, in any other place on Earth would be reserved for three people to share, but is in fact specifically and unequivocally just for you (and remember, you have to eat it all—no ifs, ands, or buts about it otherwise you risk upsetting your host).

9. You have encountered a true, village cat—the one that looks like it has eaten five city cats. It’s not fat, it’s just dinosaur huge.

10. Hospitality reaches its most prestigious level—you are automatically welcomed into any home as part of the family and then you never want to leave.

[thecroatiachronicles]

What Rovinj Taught Me

Being in Rovinj for a year has taught me a lot—how to be a better teacher, how to handle stressful situations, and how to relax. I’ve learned from my students, but also from Rovinj itself along with its lovely & interesting inhabitants. Below, I’ve compiled a short & sweet list of the lessons I’ve learned during my stay in one of Croatia’s most beautiful coastal towns.

1. The beginning is always hard. Get through it and you’ll feel like you can conquer the world.

2. Let go—let things roll off your back because your energy is better spent elsewhere.

3. Get a little crazy/go outside your comfort zone. There’s a whole lotta crazy in Rovinj & I assure you that there’s almost nothing the town’s citizens haven’t seen.  

4. Take the time to sit down for coffee & catch up with friends. As many of my friends often told me, “There’s always time for coffee.” While I’m not much of a coffee person, now I’m always up for sitting down for a while and sipping on some hot chocolate. This may seem like a silly lesson, but really it’s not because it’s code for: stop-and-enjoy-your-life-right-now.

5. Eat chocolate & cake of any amount at any time of the day because it’s not “real food” anyways. Unlike number four, this lesson is actually meant to be just a bit silly and I credit my friend Tonci for it. I’ve never regretted a single dessert since.

6. Be exactly who you are and you’ll find that the those who matter will like you regardless. From stress-induced rants to my cat and scarf obsessions, my Rovinj friends still found it in their hearts to love me anyways. :)

[thecroatiachronicles]

What My Students Taught Me

As a teacher, you’re expected to throw out knowledge in a structured, coherent manner so that it can be absorbed by your (usually less than eager/very tired) students. And while they are learning what you’re throwing at them as best as they can, something extraordinary is taking place in the peripheral: you too are being taught, learning from your learners. So as homage to my students, here are the top six things I learned from them this year.

Me & my teenagers

1. Keep trying and doing and remember to think outside the box. When something you do doesn’t work, try a million and one other things until you find something that’ll get you the necessary results. Teaching is all about trail & error, and perhaps that’s what makes is constantly new & exciting and on the other hand, tiring.

2. Know when to be serious and when to be relaxed and even a little silly. A difficult balance to figure out, but definitely something I really needed to discover.

3. Be endlessly adaptable & flexible. Every person has different needs, desires, and life circumstances so how you handle yourself and approach them will vary, therefore flexibility and adaptability are key skills to develop and maintain.

Me & my Technical English students

4. Listen well & you’ll see when an opportunity will open for you to provide the world with something only you can offer. My teenage students were very interested in U.S. life and when I said they should study abroad there, many of them were in awe that it could be possible in their high school years. And so, I set out to provide them with resources to make their fantasies hopefully become a future reality by e-mailing programs, compiling website listings, and answering what questions I could for them. My efforts were met with much gratitude and more than that, I was able to inspire some of them to dream bigger than they had previously thought possible. How cool is that? And all a result of active listening & being able to see and take advantage opportunities to help and do good.

5. Don’t give up on anyone. Even if a student doesn’t turn in homework on time or complete some assignment, figure out a solution together and be supportive. This can of course be applied to other situations as well.

6. Smile. A lot. It automatically makes the day better, and the world a bit (or even a whole lot) brighter.

Me & some of my Intelligent Business students

[thecroatiachronicles]

My Last Week in Rovinj: Part 2

My perfect Rovinj weekend turned into a less-than-perfect last week, mainly because I had a ton of work to do for all my different jobs on top of packing up the apartment and running errands. Each night I only got around three to five hours of sleep, going to bed around two or three in the morning and waking up at six or seven a few hours later. Some days I worked almost the entire day, taking just a couple hours break. By Friday, my departure day, I was cranky, exhausted, and thinking in slow-mo.

I desperately wanted my last week to be filled with friends and good times just like the weekend, but I knew as soon as Monday rolled around that sadly wouldn’t be a possibility. I’m glad I had that weekend though, otherwise I don’t think I would’ve been able to reach the closure I needed before I left.

While the week as a whole was not near ideal, there were still quite a few sparkling moments that I wouldn’t have traded for anything. First off, I had my last week of classes, which consisted of my remaining business English courses. To commemorate our last class together, we went out for coffee/drinks and got to chat about non-English related topics. It was nice to close out our time together away from the classroom, and I think all my students would agree. I’ll miss them all dearly.

I also got to see some of my Rovinj friends one last time. A few of them came over for an American pancake dinner on one of my busiest days, giving me a nice break from staring at the computer screen. I tried out a new and very delicious pancake recipe along with a vegan one. Never made vegan pancakes before but I must say, OH MY WORD THEY WERE GOOD! Good is an understatement, amazingly scrumptious is more like it. I think they are my new favorites—yummy & easy to make. Plus, they cooked beautifully—round & crusty every time. Veg for the win.

I closed out my week with a hot chocolate at one of my favorite café-bars, Cinema and a walk around the town center on Thursday. I also grabbed some Surf n’ Fries, which I stumbled on randomly after wishing for their reappearance in Rovinj, for me and Stephanie. Then on Friday, after a crazy morning (but what’s new in Rovinj?) Tonci treated me to a much needed walnut ice cream cup (my first in Rovinj!) at one of our favorite places to grab ice cream along the riva or waterfront. And then it came time to lug all my bags (somehow I managed to amass a ridiculous amount of stuff in a year) to the bus station in Stephanie’s new car (yay!) and say goodbye.

I was so exhausted by the time I reached the bus station that it almost didn’t feel like a proper goodbye to my friends and to Rovinj. It felt other-worldly and as if it was just a “I’ll-see-you-next week” type of parting. What’s more, after hugging my friends and settling in on the bus, I felt a sudden rush of relief. Relief because I was finally sitting still, not having to tackle a massive to-do list or dread waking up the next morning. Yet, once the bus started rolling away, past the old yellow tobacco factory, past Mario’s pizzeria where the owner knew us by name, past the police station where it took frustratingly long to get administrative work done, past Mini Croatia which is still on my “places to go list,” past the resident strip club, Bada-Bing, which looks, as I suppose most strip clubs do, seedy and run-down, and past the point where you can no longer see Rovinj’s landmark, St. Euphemia church, in the distance, I finally got sad, wanting to claw at the window and break free, to run back to the place that I didn’t want to leave.

But, I know I’ll be back. I have to come back. It feels like I was able to start another life in Rovinj, not just write in another chapter and so it still hasn’t really fully hit me that I’ve said goodbye. Because to me, it’s not goodbye for good. It can’t be. I won’t accept that.

Now, I’m back in Zagorje, nestled in a blanket and feeding my already stuffed belly with cheese strudel, and all I think, as I’m listening to chirping crickets outside and a ridiculous Croatian sitcom in the next room, is I’ll be back. Mark my words people: Sprinkles will be back, and don’t you forget it. : )

[thecroatiachronicles]

My Last Week in Rovinj: Part 1

I can’t believe it’s been almost a year since I first arrived in Rovinj. When it all started, I thought it might never end since the beginning of the school year was so tremendously stressful and jam-packed. Yet, as I reached and passed the half-way point in January, everything started to look way up. New travels were planned, new friends appeared, new adventures were undertaken, and new experiences unfolded. I also decided to push myself to break away from my previously perfection-oriented, high strung life perspective in favor of a more reasonable, manageable, and fun-centered one. With all these new additions to my year, life in Rovinj has become more than I ever imagined it could—something damn close to perfection, and what’s more, it has become home.

On Friday, I will be leaving Rovinj behind, kicking and screaming I’m sure (in my head, that is). I’m stunned by how quickly time has passed and amazed at how far I’ve come in just less than a year. Truly, it’s been an experience of a lifetime, and one I will certainly never forget.

My departure will be bittersweet. I’m excited to see Michigan family & friends again and re-experience my original homeland, but I’m also terribly sad to leave this new home that’s welcomed me with such generous, loving, and open arms.

  My last week in Rovinj began with a spectacular weekend filled with friends and good times. It kicked off last Friday with a surprise present from my friend Tonci, who bought me tickets to the Avantgarde Jazz Festival concert featuring legendary Otis Taylor. The concert was phenomenal. I really like jazz and blues, especially live (you just can’t beat that), and Otis Taylor was a happy mix of both with a little country twang slipped into a couple of songs. He’s a fantastic musician and stage performer and his band mates are equally incredible. After the concert, Stephanie and I headed to the after party at the restaurant, Kantinon, where we had our fill of Istrian wine and traditional food.

Then, Saturday I just got to be lazy since the weather wasn’t quite so good. Stephanie, Tonci, and I had a little American-style brunch with French toast and pancakes of all flavors from sprinkles to cinnamon to chocolate chip. Steph made the toast while I prepared the pancakes. The winning flavor of the afternoon? The gooey chocolate chip pancakes, naturally.

To round out the already wonderful week, in steps Sunday, poised and ready to be a great day. And wouldn’t you know it, Sunday completely delivered. I couldn’t have asked for a better end to my weekend. The weather was wonderful—sunny, and with a refreshing wind. And I did absolutely no work, just enjoyed the day out-and-about Rovinj. First, Stephanie and I met Tonci for some morning coffee (hot chocolate for me) at our usual café-bar, Cinema, which is located right by the water and is the perfect people-watching spot. We were there for, I wanna say, two or three hours, each of us ordering another round of drinks mid-way through. We chatted, laughed, and played Briscola.

Afterwards, we spent most of the afternoon walking around Rovinj’s Old Town, where I stopped to buy some jewelry from an artist’s gallery and truffled goodies for family. While I was busy admiring some rings, Stephanie and Tonci happened upon a candy bar where we ended up spending just a little too much. But was it worth it? Oh yes. We ate our fill while lying out in the sun on seaside rocks below St. Euphemia Church.

Later in the day, Stephanie and I grabbed a dinner at Rovinj’s newest restaurant, La Concha, a Mexican & Tex-Mex themed eatery. They seriously have the most amazing soups ever. I can still imagine the taste of the corn soup I ordered as if I am eating it right now. With the soup, I also got a delicious vegetarian enchilada which was so, so big and still came with beans and rice on the side. I really wanted to try their chili-spiced ice cream but I was completely stuffed. Uff. It was so much food, but oh so good. Once we made our way home at night, our “Rovinj family” joined us for a lovely little Bon Voyage party, where we toasted and talked and laughed all together for the last time before my departure.

All-in-all, my last weekend in Rovinj was total bliss. I couldn’t have asked for anything more or a better group of people to spend it with.

[thecroatiachronicles]

Afternoons in Brijuni & Trieste

There are many, many things I love about Croatia from the strum of a tamburica ringing through a folk song to a flaky-sweet Zagorjski strudel melting in my mouth. It seems like I find something more to love about Croatia every day I’m here. The list is truly endless.

And now, I have two new items to add to this “list.” The first is that I’ve decided that Croatia is one of the most amazing countries ever. I love Croatia’s history; it continually intrigues me as it’s filled with both terrifying and wonderful stories. Moreover, the country’s culture and traditions are beautifully rich and packed with life and energy. Plus, it seems that Croatia’s got it all in just a small area—clean, gorgeous beaches, mysterious underground caves and underwater shipwrecks, a lean, green countryside, hoppin’ cities and port towns, historic Roman ruins and old towns, quaint villages, picturesque mountains, stunning waterfalls, and postcard-pretty islands. Two words: just amazing.

The second new item on my list is my realization that Croatia is the ideal country-hopping hub. Flights are fairly cheap from Croatia to other European countries and you can easily take a car or bus from Croatia to neighboring Italy, Slovenia, Bosnia, and Hungary. Being in Croatia reminds you that you can be a world traveler on the cheap. Thank you, Croatia, for being kick-ass awesome.

So what is this long introduction a prelude to? My two afternoons that speak to the new items on my “Croatia-is-amazing” list.

Brijuni

A few weeks ago my cousin, Romana came for a little weekend visit and we got ourselves a tour of Brijuni (old spelling—Brioni) National Park booked via K&K Travel Agency. I can’t believe I hadn’t heard of Brijuni before coming to Istria. For those souls unfamiliar with this natural marvel as I once was, Brijuni is an archipelago of 19 islands and its largest island, Veliki Brijun, was Josip Broz Tito’s summer residence for 32 years. In 1983, Brijuni was turned into a national park. Today, you can grab a room at one of the main island’s hotels, rent a villa, or just come for a day trip like we did.

My cousin and I spent the whole afternoon in Brijuni and it was utterly fantastic. I really hope to come back one day and stay for a couple days and write. In a past post I raved that Draguć is a perfect place to get some writing done and now I gotta add Brijuni to that list too. It’s so peaceful and you’re completely surrounded by nature. It’s a breath of fresh air, literally.

While we were there, we went on a little train tour around the entire main island, stopping at the Safari Park, home to animals, from donkeys to zebras, that Tito received as gifts from world leaders. We later broke away from the tour accidentally, but it was totally fine because we got to go at our own pace. We visited Tito’s Museum, which houses old photographs of Tito with world leaders and celebrities, as well as a small taxidermy museum next door featuring all of his past animals.

We continued with our walk and sat for a lunch at some out-of-use geographical research thing-a-ma-bob. Not exactly sure what it was, but let’s just call it an abandoned space shuttle ‘cause that’s what it looks like.

After a little sandwich lunch, we stumbled into the newest edition to the national park, a Mediterranean garden, which was small, yet charming. Then we headed to the coast to take in some salty sea air before we headed back to the mainland in Fažana.

Trieste

Another delightful afternoon I had a couple weeks ago included a little day-trip to Trieste to visit a friend. The two big sites we were visited were the Miramar Castle and the main square Piazza Unita de’Italia, both were gorgeous.

The Miramar Castle overlooks the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. It has lovely grounds covered in gardens, giving the air a rather refreshing quality.

The Piazza Unita de’Italia is host to Trieste’s city hall and is a frequent venue for summertime concerts.

Though our Trieste trip did not last long, I really enjoyed exploring the city’s architecturally stunning streets and eating some traditional Italian gelato. Yum!

  At the end of June I’m set to leave Croatia behind. I will happily be taking all of my travel memories with me but sad to leave such wonderful opportunities behind. Croatia, I promise I will be back.

[thecroatiachronicles]

Taking the Plunge: the Other Side of Rovinj

I woke up last Wednesday with sun lighting the floor of my room. Stepping outside onto my balcony, I breathed in the fresh, salty air—the air of a Croatian summer.

It was a beautiful day, and one that marked the beginning of Rovinj’s summer season. Last Wednesday was also a national holiday, Worker’s Day (the European equivalent of U.S. Labor Day), and pretty much all Croatian employees were free to do as they pleased, many even taking a long holiday by connecting it with the weekend. While I didn’t have this luxury, I was determined to take advantage of my one-day holiday and the summery weather. So what better way to do that than by going to the beach?

Initially Stephanie and I had intended to go to Punta Corrente as BBQs and parties are held in celebration of Worker’s Day along the beach and in the park. But we opted for a more low-key locale and went to Rovinj’s “other side,” located just a bit northwest of the town center. During the summer this side is also filled with tourists, like most of the town, but before the peak season comes into full swing, it’s quiet, serene. Here, we met up with a friend and her husband, laid down our towels and took in some much needed sun.

Rovinj from “the other side”

We played Briscola, ate delicious vegan chocolate cake, and drank some Italian spritz. We alsoall  went on our very first swim of the season. May 1st is still considered too early for swimming by most since the water is still quite cold. Yet discomfort had to be pushed aside to celebrate the start of summer with a proper swim.

And wow. It was cold. Oh. So. Cold. I let my legs dangle in the water over the side of the stone pier to get used to the chill. After about five minutes, I started out slow. I went up to my calves, then to my knees. And then I stopped. With each small step forward, the water stung like ice. I shook my head “no” to Stephanie, who was already well into the water, swimming around. Yet I knew I had to go in. In my mind, it marked some rite of passage that would make me a real coastal Croat.

View from the beach

And sure enough, I dove into the water, yelled in mild horror, and then swam until I got some feeling back into my body and found one of those random warm spots in the sea. The initial jump was the worst part, but after you were in, it felt like normal sea water that was just a tad bit colder than usual. I’m glad I took the plunge. I felt a sense of accomplishment, even though the act didn’t mean much beyond me and my friends, but who cares? Sometimes these can be the most meaningful accomplishments.

Once late afternoon rolled around, we called it a day and packed up, then went on a walk to explore the rest of Rovinj’s “other side.”

Rovinj’s most famous building is its church on the hill, St. Euphemia. Yet Rovinj is also home to a far lesser-known landmark, the orthopedic hospital and rehabilitation center, “Primarius Dr. Martin Horvat.” One reason for its lack of attention is that the hospital is not open to the public and it is generally frowned upon to visit the grounds as a tourist. But, seeing as we’re essentially locals we went through the area without a second look from the hospital guard.

The hospital was built by the Austrian government in 1888 and was originally intended to be a children’s treatment center. Following World War I, it was converted into its current purpose, a clinic for orthopedics, and is one of the oldest orthopedic hospitals in Croatia and Europe. The hospital was specially constructed on this particular part of Rovinj because of its special micro-climate that is supposed to aid in recovery.

The hospital

While the hospital is still in use today, the small buildings once constructed around this health resort, including a cinema, lookout tower, pool, church, and greenhouse, no longer function. These forgotten buildings are all in various states of disrepair. Walking through the area, a feeling of sadness comes over me as I long to see this place in all its glory. Yet, that would surely draw tourists and ruin its eerie charm.

Gothic staircase in the hospital

And no, that wasn’t a typo or ill-fitting word choice. The hospital area is both eerie and charming. It’s closed off from the rest of the world, enveloped in a pine forest and boarded by a secluded sandy beach. As you enter from the beach side, you see the hospital—alive, yes, but with peeling, dirty yellow paint and splintered window frames and shutters. Immediately to its right, there’s the old, unused pool that doesn’t even look like a pool. It’s a hulking piece of grey that has too much concrete and far too little space to showcase the pool itself.

If you zigzag a bit to the right and keep walking for a minute or two up another path you’ll reach the hospital lookout tower. Climb up to the top and catch a glimpse of Rovinj’s old town and the island Figarola.

The hospital tower

As we walked back down to the hospital building, we passed the old cinema (now used as a gym), whose gothic veneer gave us all the chills.

The old cinema

Right next door is the Church of St. Pelag, also abandoned. It’s architecturally beautiful, despite its unkempt nature. Inside, you’ll find that it’s being used as storage space. Old documents, binders, and books, some even dating back to the 1930s, crowd the building.

The Church of St. Pelag

 Inside the Church of St. Pelag

Upon leaving the grounds, we all agreed that the hospital would be the perfect horror movie set. While I’d love to see the buildings repaired, repainted, and revitalized, I like them this way. It gives the place a sense of struggle, of loss even, which, like any good writer will say, builds character.

I’ve lived in Rovinj for almost a full year now and I’ve seen its many sides from its crowded summer to its lonely winter and all the craziness in-between. Many picture Rovinj as an idyllic, romantic coastal town and while this is true, the town is so much more. Rovinj is complex, layered with history, with culture, and with many stories—both remembered and forgotten.

[thecroatiachronicles]

Croat Chit-Chat with Marija Durakovich

Creative, open-minded, and overly-analytical are three words that most accurately describe Marija Durakovich, which she attributes to her Croatian upbringing within American culture as well as to her education at the University of Michigan where she cultivated her worldview; and to fresh experiences which she has independently ventured through. She pursued a Master's Degree in Education, mainly to get qualified to teach in the classroom but, despite her passion for working with kids, decided that there was something better suited for her out there. It is here where the road carved out by discernment for a ‘professional calling’ has unveiled passions that, while perhaps not leading to a single career path, have bolstered her footing in an ocean of possibilities. It is here in Croatia—where she now lives and works after relocating from her hometown of Detroit four years ago—that she has come alive and wishes to build her future.

1. What is your favorite place to visit in Croatia, and why?

My favorite place to visit in Croatia is not a specific town, per say, but any town that bears the following characteristics:  quaint, historic, clean, coastal, and authentic. Perhaps a cross between Cavtat, Mali Lošinj and some undiscovered town on Hvar. 

2. What places or sites would you recommend to a tourist visiting Croatia, and why?

Here, I'll refer back to previous question, (Cavtat, Hvar, Mali Lošinj), but place more emphasis on ''undiscovered'' as I, myself am in search of these places.  This summer I'm headed to Istria which I've only caught a glimpse of. Based on what I've heard and from whom I've heard this, I am confident that Istria will be my newest top recommendation. And I'm making it my mission to find some part of Istria that is yet to be discovered.  Oh, and I have a true affinity for the city of Zadar – likely a product of my numerous summers with some of my best girlfriends there, which were loaded with inside jokes and spontaneities.

3. Do you have any favorite Croatian writers, poets, artists, actors, or musicians? If so, who are they and what are some of their notable works (or works of theirs you admire)?

I really enjoy Croatian klapas, especially while spending time on the coast. I've been to 4 TBF concerts, the last of which I was determined to catch Mladen for a chat post-concert – and succeeded in this, by the way!  Besides the classics like Prljavo Kazalište and Gibonni, I always enjoy Urban (&4), Croatian jazz, and up-and-coming authentic artists who clearly play with their hearts and not for the meager money to be made.  I have yet to discover my favorite literary heroes. 

Marija hiking up Sljeme (the Medvednica mountain that borders Zagreb)

4. Which Croatian people have you come to admire in your life (political, artistic, familial or otherwise)?

Perhaps a cliché but the true nonetheless: Ante Gotovina.  I recently listened (live) to a speech by esteemed scientist Davor Pavuna. Let's just say that it's been years since someone's performance of words moved me so much as did his. As for artistic admirations, I think x4 concert attendances says enough here (TBF); their lyrics are 'real', they're to a great extent pioneers in their genre, and they're genuine on and off the stage.   

5. What changes do you hope to see made in Croatia?

The change I wish to see is peoples’ acceptance and application of foreign approaches to those things that most every Croatian admits need to change. Croatians have readily-available knowledge from, for instance, its diaspora which must be taken to its full advantage. However, these fresh ideas are too often suppressed out of a fear of change, losing one's status, or simply choosing the path of least resistance.  The first sub-change which needs to take effect is the belief and promotion of teamwork. It is only when groups think, work and act collectively that change can occur.

6. Where do you see the country in 10 years?

To be honest, I haven't a clue. But I do know that this (not knowing) is why I am here. There's a passion for preserving my heritage that is ingrained in me and, quite frankly, in the last four years I've felt that this heritage has been threatened. I sincerely hope that younger generations will soon recognize that their passivity is destructive to Croatia’s future.  I hope they will realize that their critical thinking requires action. I hope they will realize that without voicing their thoughts, they are actively surrendering not only their microcosmic worlds but something far greater with endless potential. I hope that they will think not only for themselves but for their beloved grandparents and great-grandparents, who likely made incomprehensible sacrifices. More importantly, I hope that they will consider their impact in terms of a future they are creating for their own children and grandchildren. Finally, I hope that they will stop taking a copy+paste approach and start thinking critically, incorporating foreign ideas into their own, synthesizing information versus rotely transplanting it onto foreign soil, thus creating an unsustainable formula. I hope authenticity takes flight!

Marija with her mother at a river park near Samobor. She highly recommends the trout served here.

7. If you could tell someone just one thing about Croatia, what would you want to tell them?

Come, see, explore, absorb but consider its history. That being said, tolerate while at the same time persisting in depositing your knowledge regardless of the resistance to be faced.

8. What is your favorite country dish or food?

Palačinke, što drugo?!  Yes, yes, they are really French, but I'd say our bakas have an irreplicable Croatian recipe for them that is hard to beat.

9. What do you love about Croatia?

The thirst for knowledge that people have, despite the rampant resistance to incorporate tried foreign methodologies (quickly enough). There's a controlled urgency to this regard which I sense around me. For example, I see a plethora of people of my generation unceasingly, and without regard to costs, actively packing up their evenings with learning experiences ranging from learning a 4th language, learning a new craft, or attending public seminars and lectures. In light of a struggling economy and record high unemployment, this “thirst for knowledge” is one significant step in the right direction and one that is contrary to my belief of the apathy epidemic I described earlier. I admit to the inconsistency I am pointing out here – the coexistence of apathy and activism (whilst perhaps only for self-promotion).  And it is precisely this polarity that I think can be applied to the state of things in Croatia in general.  There exists a culture of thinking here that has taken seat on one of two sides of any spectrum, be it political, religious, or economical. It is my sincere hope that  the on-setting “kriza” (or crisis) will bring people together for one, good, long, emotional think-tank in which they'll weed through the mumbo-jumbo that has staked itself for way too long in every crevice of society.  I see this, perhaps on a minute scale, transpiring amongst my friends and family who have integrated their personal beliefs with the beliefs of true experts and a realistic approach to the future of their homeland.

Strossmayerovo Setaliste, which Marija says is the best street with a view of Zagreb during the spring/summer/fall

10. What is your favorite Croatian saying or expression?

Svaka rit dođe na šekret.

(Rough translation: A day comes when every ass comes to justice.)

11. When and why did you decide to move to Croatia?

They say that things come in threes. For me, this was 1. deciding to leave education, 2. deciding to move to Croatia, and 3. deciding to stop spreading myself thinly and zeroing in on my passions.  The three epiphanies that lead to these life transitions were the best I ever made because without them I would have “tracked” myself onto a path driven by monotony, tradition, and cultural deprivation. That being said, I can confidently say that my life has become increasingly dynamic, non-traditional, and culturally rich.

I moved to Croatia (from Detroit) 4 years ago and I still get bombarded with equally as many ''Why did you move here?'' questions, to which I honestly respond with ''because of my love for Croatia.''  Don't get me wrong, I love my other homeland as well but they don't say that distance makes the heart grow fonder for just any reason. During these last four years I've learned a lot about tolerance, morals, and my patriotic roots. I imagine that amongst those of us “returnees” I'm not alone here. 

The question that typically follows is ''Do you want to move back to the US?''.  Quite honestly, no.  I love the palette of cultural activities Zagreb has to offer – from theaters to film festivals and live music performances.  I love walking to work, roller-blading around Bundek park, hiking at Sljeme (which is literally a tram ride away) and playing beach volleyball at Lake Jarun. I love being able to sit outdoors (in all seasons) at a different café every day, if I wish, to read the newspaper and people watch. And finally, I love proximity…. and Zagreb has that too!

Zagreb from Gornji Grad (the upper town)

12. What advice do you have to those looking to either temporarily or permanently move to Croatia?

Aside from my answer to question number 8, I'd add that they should have low expectations, but come with boldness, a job-searching strategy having already established some contacts, and some savings to get them through the rough spots in terms of job-less periods. By NO means should they even consider bribery, which is a small form of corruption that has infiltrated so far into many parts of society that it might quickly and easily seem acceptable to newcomers.

[thecroatiachronicles]

Walking Croatia's Kvarner Region

Winter has finally come to an end here in Istria and warm, sunny spring weather has been dominating most of our days now. As the second installment in my Istrian road trip series, last Sunday I spent the day touring Croatia’s Kvarner region with three of my good friends. This was one of the first days we experienced summer-like warmth and all-day sun, which of course made the day all the more perfect.

Ičići marina

With our Central Istria trip, we made a point of seeing some of the historical and cultural monuments of the little towns we stopped in. But this time around, since the weather was oh so good, we took our merry time and went on short causal strolls around each town, soaking up the long dormant sun.

Our first stop was the small town Ičići. It’s a beautiful place situated amongst more well-known Kvarner region areas like Lovran and Opatija. During the summer months, I hear that Ičići is a prime tourist destination, and especially notable for its Blue Flag beach. While you might encounter certain crowd pockets in this town during Croatia’s peak season, you can find an easy escape from it all in your rented apartment or home as these are situated a bit outside of the immediate center.

  Sea view from Ičići

In Ičići, we walked under a building with a very cool, colorful ceiling in order to reach a café-bar, where everyone grabbed some morning coffee and I got myself a scoop of Snickers-inspired ice cream. While looking out at the sea here, we noticed an interesting phenomenon: random self-perpetuating circles in the water. I wish I had a proper picture of it. We couldn’t figure out how the water just randomly formed into a circle in the middle of the sea. Perhaps there was a natural spring underneath? Who knows. If you have any idea what was happening, please feel free to enlighten me.

  It’s summer all over this ceiling

From Ičići, we decided to hop up onto the famous Lungomare, Kvarner’s seaside promenade. It stretches 12 kilometers (7 miles) in length from Preluka to Lovran.

View from the Lungomare

More beauty from the Lungomare

Once on it, we ambled towards Lovran, stopping briefly in Ika, a small town we are told has a fantastic fast food place called Archie. Unfortunately, we did not get to stop in & grab some grub there on this trip but it is on my list of places to go next time around.

Ika

Once we reached Lovran, we sat in the sun at an outdoor café and drank some coffee and lemonade. While we didn’t spend a long time in Lovran, I found its architectural landscape captivating, as if you just walked into a classic European movie set.

  A beautiful building in Lovran

After Lovran, our stomachs were grumbling and so we made our way back onto the Lungomare towards Ičići. We hopped into our rental car and drove for about 10 minutes to reach the stunning Opatija. I find practically every Croatian town beautiful, but Opatija is well, a fairytale. It’s extremely popular among tourists and was already quite full of them when we arrived. Opatiaj’s architecture is similar to that in Lovran, but buildings are more plentiful and have a more regal quality to them. Plus, the town has yellow-brick sidewalks! You can get a tan, go for a swim, eat some delicious dessert, grab some local goods, AND feel like you’re in The Wizard of Oz. Can you really beat that? One day I’d love to own property here so I can skip along the yellow-brick sidewalks whenever I please.

Opatija's "Maiden with the Seagull" statue

We actually ended up spending most of our day in Opatija. We situated ourselves on the sea shore and made ourselves a little picnic. After scarfing down some food, we just laid in the sun, enjoying the beautiful day, and then played some poker, placing bets using K-Plus Party Mix Crackers (the BEST mix there is). Naturally, we ended up eating most of our “money” so no one actually knew who won, but that never mattered in the first place.

Soon after, I went for a short walk with two friends, Nadia and Tonči. On the way, we listened to a hippie play bongos for money, were stopped by a friendly, energetic saleswoman selling her illustrator husband’s art work, and entered a jewelry store called Sonora that contained dazzling hand-made pieces, all of which I wanted to buy.

  Cute little cat coaster I bought from the sidewalk saleswoman

Before leaving Opatija, we stopped at the hoppin’ Caffe Grand at Hotel Milenij. While Stephanie and Nadia grabbed some more coffee, Tonci and I opted for dessert. He got a cherry fruit cake whose name I have forgotten and I ordered a deliciously creamy walnut cake. My plate was empty in a jiff. I’d love to stop into the shop again, as they also had house-made chocolate bars on sale that looked scrumptious.

  My walnut cake

To have a proper meal, we left Opatija and headed for Rijeka, one of my favorite Croatian cities after Zagreb. Anytime Stephanie and I are in Rijeka we must go to Peking Wok, the city’s new Chinese restaurant, and this time was no different. I think they actually have the best Chinese food I’ve ever eaten. It’s fresh, not overly salty or oily and is always delicious. I wasn’t too hungry after my cake, so I just ordered vegetable soup with glass noodles and noodles with stir-fry veggies. So, so good. Mmm…I can’t wait to go back!

Just like our last road trip, this one was equally delightful and refreshing. We discovered little bits & pieces of mostly new-to-us Croatian towns and had a relaxing time doing it. What a day!