A Study of Hair Texture in Ancient Egypt
[image description: Model Domestic figure, Middle Kingdom. via Met Museum, the overlaying texts says “A Study of Hair Texture in Ancient Egypt”]
It is generally accepted now that ancient Egyptians were indigenous Africans. Seeing them with black African ancestry, however, seems to be tougher for people to acknowledge by both scholars and the general public alike. Even Egyptologist Stuart Tyson Smith argues that “Egyptologists have been strangely reluctant to admit that the ancient Egyptians were rather dark-skinned Africans…” (191). Through a closer observation of ancient Egyptian art we can find that many ancient Egyptians shared physical traits to black Africans, not just in skin colors but in hair texture as well.
Black Africans do not have a homogeneous appearance in anyway, so instead I use the term “black African” as a way to describe a generality of resemblances across multiple ethnic groups.
When studied as individuals, not all ancient Egyptians would be perceived as black Africans in the way expected in contemporary Western society, the same goes for many modern North Africans. Although not every ancient Egyptian would be considered black, the civilization did have visible black Africans throughout their entire history.
Discoveries from Pre-dynastic Egypt
Long-teeth vertical combs, resembling afro combs, have been found [Gallery]
A toupee made out of sheep’s or goat’s wool (Tassie 1066).
Palettes depicting men with tight curls and round hairstyles. [Gallery]
Female figurines with dreadlocks [Gallery]
[image description: The ‘Donkey comb’ and five flat-topped combs, via link]
Afros of the Middle Kingdom
Afros became fashionable among men of non-royalty. [Gallery]
Hair during the New Kingdom
Egypt occupies Nubia, causing both cultures to merge (Redford).
Egypt adopts Nubian hairdressing creating the Nubian wig [Gallery]
We also see the use of the round wig. [Gallery]
Long corkscrew curls are worn, sometimes with the ends made into miniature dreadlocks [Gallery]
Woolly Hair in Achaemenid Egypt
[image description: an artistic depiction of Herodotus, known as the “father of history and travel writing.” Photo via The Telegraph)
The ancient Greek historian, Herodotus, described the hair of the ancient Egyptians, as woolly using the term (οὐλότριχες), ulotrichous which means woolly or crisp hair. The root word, οὐλό, also has been used by Greeks to also describe the hair of Ethiopians, or black Africans (Snowden 6).
Depictions of ancient Egyptians with crisp hair can still be seen even after the Ptolemaic dynasty. [Gallery]
[image description: Alabaster cameo portrait bust of an Egyptian woman from the Roman period, wearing a stola. via British Museum]
The Cultural Norm for Hair
Ancient Egyptians with straight hair did exist, as shown in their art.
[image description: A Fresco Scene of two grape farmers, from the tomb of Nakht via post]
According to Egyptologist Joan Fletcher, during wig constructions, the type of hair they used for the wigs in every case was “Caucasian” hair rather than afro-textured hair except that of Maiherpri’s (495). The use of the term Caucasian hair is vague, Fletcher might have meant that the hair did not resembled afro-textured hair. It is suggested by another Egyptologist, Geoffrey Tassie, that the hair could have been gathered from foreign captives, or through trading (1066). If Fletcher is correct about the type of hair used for almost all wigs, then the texture of the “Caucasian” hair seemed to have been frequently altered to contemporary fashions, such as curly wigs.
[image description: (from left to right) lady Istemkhebs’ short curly wig, duplex wig, Ahmose-Hentempet’s short curly wig. Located in the Cairo Musuem. via Encyclopaedia of the History of Science, Technology, and Medicine in Non-western Cultures]
These alterations to the hair actually bear resemblance to afro-textured hair and aesthetics found in other black African cultures. We can even see many of these similar alterations and styles in modern-day black Africans that inhabit Northeast Africa, such the Afar.
[image description: A comparison I made of hairstyles between ancient Egyptians and Afar men. via post]
Throughout their history, ancient Egyptians made tools and hairstyles that would have unlikely to come into existence if they did not anything in common with black Africans. Even to this day black Northeast Africans wear similar hairstyles to the Egyptians of long ago.
The Social and Ritual Contextualisation of Ancient Egyptian Hair and Hairstyles from the Protodynastic to the End of the Old Kingdom by Geoffrey John Tassie (Highly Recommeded)
Curating Kemet: Fear of a Black Land? by Sally-Ann Ashton
Egyptian hair combs in the Fitzwilliam Museum by Sally-Ann Ashton
Hair and the Construction of Identity in Ancient Egypt by Gay Robins
Bridge, Sarah. “The Ethiopian Tribes Who Use BUTTER to Style Their Hair: Incredible Photos Reveal the Elaborate Curled Creations of the Afar People, and the Hamer Who Mix Ghee with Red Ochre to Spectacular Effect.” Mail Online. Associated Newspapers, 13 Feb. 2014. Web. 24 Feb. 2014.
Fletcher, Joann. “Hair.” Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technology. By Ian Shaw. Cambridge: Cambridge UP, 2000. 495-96. Print.
knowledgeequalsblackpower.”Maiherpri, Buried at Thebes, Valley of the Kings, New Kingdom 18th Dynasty, 1427-1392 BC” Tumblr. 10 Jan. 2012. Web. 24 Feb. 2014.
Martin, Frank. “The Egyptian Ethnicity Controversy and the Sociology of Knowledge”.Journal of Black Studies 14.3 (1984) 296+300-306. Print.
Redford, Donald B. From Slave to Pharaoh: The Black Experience of Ancient Egypt. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins UP, 2004. Print.
Smith, Stuart Tyson. “From Slave to Pharaoh.” (2008) Faculty Publications. Paper 127. 190-2. Print. http://digitalcommons.ric.edu/facultypublications/127
Snowden, Frank M. Blacks in Antiquity; Ethiopians in the Greco-Roman Experience. Cambridge, MA: Belknap of Harvard UP, 1970. Print.
Tassie, G. J. “Hair in Egypt.”, “Hair in Egypt: People and Technology Used in Creating Egyptian Hairstyles and Wigs”,”Hairstyling Technology and Techniques Used in Ancient Egypt”. Encyclopaedia of the History of Science, Technology, and Medicine in Non-western Cultures: With 107 Tables. ed. Helaine Selin. Berlin: Springer, 2008. 1060-1076. Print.
TRUTHTEACHER2007. Ancient Egyptian Afro Wigs. Youtube. 22 Apr. 2010. Web. 24 Feb. 2014.