Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 2): Under the Green Canopy
If my mom and I were plants, we would have been photosynthesizing by then as the sun had been scattering its blinding rays for more than an hour already when we woke up. I got up and took a bath while she prepared a small bag to take as we tour Ho Chi Minh, and then vice versa. After getting ourselves ready; we left our large bags in the room, locked the door and headed to the reception area to surrender our room key. To my discomfort, the lobby was filled with an even MORE (note the capitalization and bolding for further stressing the point) pungent burning incense-like odor I first encountered outside the airport. I rushed outside to the streets to have a gasp of a fresher and more tolerable air. I have really nothing personal against the owner’s religious beliefs. But since he built a guest house that accommodates almost anyone, he should have at least taken into consideration the fact that not everyone could feel at home with that very overpowering (not to mention, asphyxiating) smell that is saturating his place.
My mom and I first proceeded to the Sapaco Bus Terminal, a few meters from the inn, to purchase seats of a bus that will leave for Phnom Penh, Cambodia on the same day.
TRAVELOCITIES REMINDER #1
Sapaco is a popular bus company in Vietnam. Its main terminal in Saigon is located at District 1 at the intersection of Pham Ngu Lao Road and Do Quang Dao Street. The said terminal opens for business at around 5:30 in the morning. The schedule of departure of buses are 6:00 am, 7:00 am, 8:00 am, 9:00 am, 10:00 am, 11:30 am and 1:00 pm. Sapaco is said to be one of those that offers the cheapest modes of transportation from Saigon to Phnom Penh, Cambodia (approximately 6 hours travel) and from Saigon to Siem Reap, Cambodia (approximately 12 hours travel). The Saigon to Phnom Penh fare ranges from 11-15 US$ while the Saigon to Siem Reap fare falls within 18-22 US$. Bus fares are dependent both on the route to be taken and the services included. The usual amenities claimed by the bus company are air-conditioning, checking of passports, usage of toilet, a wet towel, a bottle of water, immigration processing, and a rest stop. For non-ASEAN passport holders, a visa entry for Cambodia is required. The bus company also claims to handle visa processing for about 24-26 US$. Sapaco also promises tagging of checked-in luggage for security, a hand towel, and a snack. But my mom and I were certain that during our travel the company missed out on these three. Despite its appeal to budget backpackers, the bus company has also earned negative comments from a lot (and I really mean it) of dissatisfied (and some, abused) customers. My mom and I’s trip via Sapaco may be deemed as relatively good overall. However, we still have our little share of commentaries and suggestions. But that is to be featured in my blog entry regarding our bus travel from Saigon to Phnom Penh). A popular and oftentimes considered to be the most patronized and most suitable substitute for Sapaco Bus is the Mekong Express. Its fare falls on the same range as Sapaco but the services are said to be more complete thus allowing the company to receive a downpour of good reviews.
Upon arranging our ride, we then crossed a short pedestrian lane traversing Do Quang Dao Street to reach the other segment of Pham Ngu Lao Road.
TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – PHAM NGU LAO ROAD
It has been said that Pham Ngu Lao Road is comparable to Thailand’s Khao San Road (to be featured in my blog entry of Bangkok, Thailand) and to the Philippines’ Baclaran, Divisoria, Quiapo and Recto. This main avenue at Pham Ngu Lao Area at District 1 is lined with stalls/stores/shops/mini markets that sell cheap items including authentic Vietnamese street food, clothes (which more often than not are either imitations or those belonging to Class A or Class B), toys, souvenirs and war memorabilia. Local restaurants, cafes and bars are also a common sight so as to provide inexpensive Vietnamese dining experiences with an additional taste of local entertainment.
Pham Ngu Lao Road (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
As my mom and I walked along the sidewalk of Pham Ngu Lao Road, we chanced upon lots of Vietnamese shop owners seated on small stools drinking cups of hot coffee or tea. Western tourists also dominated the area—briskly walking with their backpacks while clutching a map or two in their hands. And then there were motorcycles, a hundred (or more!) of them parked along Pham Ngu Lao Road. At the corner of my mind, I have reason to believe that the ratio of motorcycles to a resident in Ho Chi Minh is 2 is to 1. I seriously believe that we have a problem of air pollution at Ho Chi Minh (and I’m not just talking about the pungent burning incense-like odor but also of the exhaust from motorcycles!). Anyway, I honestly was expecting to bump onto a bigger and noisier crowd at Pham Ngu Lao Road. But I guess most people were just too sleepy to wake up early (although, it was kind-of late for me) in the morning.
My mom and I traversed Pham Ngu Lao Road to reach the other sidewalk and stroll under the trees of a small unnamed park. I wasn’t that much surprised to be seeing several people engaging in physical activities at the site. A lot of East and Southeast Asians (most especially those residing in the mainland) have surpassed a hundred years of existence due to regular exercise and/or movement, and intake of medical herbs and other plant extracts. There were a number of senior citizens and youngsters (but mostly senior citizens) jogging, running and/or walking. However, what really caught my attention and perhaps my most favourite park scene was a team of men, whose ages probably fall within the late thirties and early fifties, playing a game resembling the Philippines’ sipa or Malaysia’s sepak takraw. I was just so astonished at how they were able to turn the ball back and forth from one side of the court to the other at a blink of an eye. If you have watched a ping pong match before with Chinese players at both sides of the table, then the staggering speed of the ball I’m speaking of in this paragraph would be a no brainer.
The Vietnamese Version of Sipa or Sepak Takraw (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
I was also able to find a peddler wearing the traditional Vietnamese headdress called non la.
TRAVELOCITIES INFORMATION – NON LA
Non la means leaf hat. This conical headdress in Vietnam are the most noted in Southeast Asia as the Vietnamese as oppose to other nationalities are said to decorate their hats with beautifully crafted ornaments that convey love and war. And so I asked my mom to take a picture of me with the street vendor passing by on the background.
My mom and I reached the intersection of Pham Ngu Lao and Nguyen Thi Nghia and waited for a thousand motorcycles to pass before we can actually reach 23/9 Park.
Vietnamese Peddler Wearing a Non La (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION - 23/9 PARK
23/9 Park, rarely called by its actual name: 23 September Park, is one of Ho Chi Minh’s prominent parks at District 1 perhaps next to 30/4 Park (to be featured in the later portion of this entry). Although of small land area, 23/9 boasts of its relatively clean cut green flooring heavily adorned at one end with giant trees that stand inches away from and along the sidewalk of the park. The park is a relatively good place for exercising with a group, spending time with loved ones or just being alone and contemplating on things.
23/9 Park or 23 September Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Under the Green Canopy of 23/9 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Time Lapse Video of 23/9 Park
There have also been reports of undesirable activities such as gambling and prostitution happening in 23/9 regardless of the time of day. Card scams conducted by devious Vietnamese, Malaysians, Filipinos and several other Southeast Asian nationalities lure tourists into playing cards, trapping them into the complexities of the game and causing them to lose large sums of money. Prostitutes skulk around the area and offer sexual services. Fortunately, my mom and I did not encounter any of these people. I highly suggest that you always practice vigilance when strolling at unfamiliar grounds.
While my mom and I were busy taking photographs, an old man named Inh approached us and offered a tour of Ho Chi Minh via a mode of transportation called a tintin.
TRAVELOCITIES INFORMATION – TINTIN
A tintin (also called a cyclo or a cycle rickshaw) is a three-wheeled vehicle introduced in Vietnam during the French colonial period and is nowadays prevalently used in the country’s major cities such as Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi. Its population most likely tails that of motorcycles and is often a more local way (as opposed to a taxi cab) of touring specific sites around metros. The vehicle comfortably seats only one passenger while the driver pedals at the back. It appears to be a fusion between a bicycle and a tricycle or better, a creative variation of the Indonesian becak or Philippine pedicab. The advantages of a tintin over a motorcycle in viewing Ho Chi Minh are as follows: (a) the former is more stable having three wheels rather than two; (b) as a result of (a), the passenger feels a little more secure and can remove his or her grip from the side handles at any time to check on his or her bags, take photographs, or read a map; (c) the passenger is able to have a 180 degrees unhindered front view of the places as the driver is pedalling at the rear end; and (d) as a result of my environmental advocacy, a tintin is a hundred times more eco-friendly than a motorcycle (plus, the driver gets his daily dose of exercise and burns unwanted fats).
Inh offered a 10 US$/passenger tour of Ho Chi Minh’s most acclaimed landmarks. My mom and I refused because we both know that it was too much for the route and service he specified. I mean, we’d rather walk if that was the case. But he was persistent. He then offered a 5 US$/passenger tour of Ho Chi Minh. To think that the price was halved at an instant, I really made sure that all three of us understood what he just laid down in front all of us, “You mean, my mom will pay 5 US$ for her ride and I will pay 5 US$ for my ride, which makes it a total of 10 US$.” He nodded his head with gladness. Although I still believed the price could have been lowered, half the original fare wasn’t really a bad offer after all. Eventually, my mom and I agreed. Inh called his friend whose name slipped my mind. Before we took off, my mom and I did some shots while sitting on the tintin.
Me on a Tintin (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
The first destination in our roster was 30/4 Park.
TRAVELOCITIES DESTINATION – 30/4 PARK OR TAO DAN PARK
Although logic may indicate that 30/4 is called 30 April Park, it actually isn’t. 30/4 is most commonly known as Tao Dan Park. 30/4 is apparently Ho Chi Minh’s most favourite site for practicing martial arts, camping, buying souvenir items, appreciating detailed sculptures or just aimlessly wandering alone or with a special someone. Truong Dinh Street cuts 30/4 into two separate forested areas of equal size. Dispersed throughout both green zones are towering trees that seem to reach out to the heavens. Sculptures, park sheds and establishments are strategically placed at various locations to provide more things for the eyes to feast on. Tao Dan Park was featured in Season 15 of the hit reality TV show, Amazing Race. It was actually the site for one of the choices in a Detour. In the said task (called Child’s Play), teams had to find a kiosk named Nhiep Anh Cong vien Tao Dan Kiosque Giao Anh and transport a concrete animal statue to a nearby children’s playground, collecting five different colored balloons along the way, in order to receive the next clue.
Truong Dinh Street: The Crossing of Tao Dan Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Martial Arts Practice at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Camping at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Pinwheels for Sale at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Sculptures at 30/4 Park (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
Tao Dan Kiosk included in the 15th Season of Amazing Race (Photograph by EK Encarnacion)
My mom and I enjoyed the sceneries while seated on our respective tintins. We also got down on a few chosen locations to take pictures. We took off afterwards. As Inh and his friend pedalled the tintins and took my mom and I at the intersection of Truong Dinh Street and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, I cannot help but look back at the magnificent forest resting right in the middle of urban Ho Chi Minh. How I wish the Philippines was also able to preserve astounding jungles at the middle of every city in Metro Manila (not just the Eco-Park in Quezon City)—parks with lofty trees that can counter the heat effects intensified by concrete buildings and asphalted roadways.
But soon I found out that it wasn’t just the green canopies that I was envious of.
Click on the following link to read Part 1:
Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 1): Anh Yeu Em Miss Saigon
Click on the following link to read Part 3:
Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Vietnam (Part 3): Of Wars and Woes
Flying to another country from the Philippines? Learn how to make your way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport by clicking on the following link:
Making Your Way through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport
EK Encarnacion has planted a lot of vegetable-bearing seeds during high school. But in his years of existence, the only plant he managed to grow was monggo, which can be done by a kindergarten student with his or her eyes closed. Fine! He doesn't have a green thumb. To learn more of his inabilities, visit his blogs: Every-Comedy-Thing (life blog), Culinary Coliseum (food blog) and By God's Grace (gratitutde blog). His works are also listed at the Pinoy group blog, The Filipino Diaspora.