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Happy International Day of Happiness!
For Avatar: TLA and Legend of Korra fans, you may find it interesting that Lord Zuko's dragon's official name is "Druk" -- which, of course, means dragon or thunder dragon in Dzongkha, the Bhutanese national language.
Bhutan is known as the land of the thunder dragon, so the word "druk" is commonly used for terms of national heritage. In Dzongkha, the country of Bhutan is called "Druk Yul." The monarch is known as the "Druk Gyalpo," the Dragon King. The dragon, or druk, is prominently featured on the national flag.
I'm pleased that the Avatar universe -- with all its Asian inspiration and roots in Asian folklore, mythology, culture, language, architecture, art, and so forth -- has also included a little piece of Bhutan.
Pharrell Williams- Happy (Bhutan)
So many familiar sights in Thimphu...love it! This video captures the happy spirit of Bhutan. :)
Some monks playing around with the dungchen, the long Tibetan horn used during religious rituals.
Normally people aren't allowed to take photographs inside the Buddhist temples, but I was given special permission by the nuns. This is the inside of their primary temple which was recently built (they're very proud of it).
These pictures were taken while they were taking a lunch break from an all-day ritual. You can see the abandoned cushions with robes balled up on the seat and rice scattered over the floor (which they throw while they recite certain lines).
Everything inside is vivid and brightly-colored, from the butter lamps to the Buddha statue. Every surface is painted and every fabric shines. You can see all the thanga paintings hanging from the ceiling.
The seat with a picture of a man on it is the ceremonial seat for the head lama. A few nuns were spending their break inside the temple, continuing to chant and sing -- they were gracious enough to let me photograph them.
The last picture is of a few massive horn instruments (dungchen, literally "dharma trumpets") which are blown at certain times during the ritual, producing these deep tones (you can hear a few monks playing around with them here).
This is a recording of our Dzongkha and cultural studies teacher Wangchuck singing the Manjusri prayer.
Manjusri is the bodhisattva of wisdom. You can identify him in thangka and other art because he holds a flaming sword which is used to cut through delusion and ignorance (as seen above).
He's often presented alongside the bodhisattva of compassion, Avalokiteśvara. Manjusri and Avalokiteśvara are the Sanskrit names; the Tibetan names are Jampelyang and Chenrezig. (The Bhutanese use the Sanskrit and the Tibetan titles interchangeably.)
Royal Thimphu College (the school in Bhutan that I attended) actually used Manjusri's sword as the emblematic symbol for the school -- which makes sense, since their goals as educators is also to pierce through ignorance and delusion.
Some schools will actually lead the students to sing this prayer every day and it's not uncommon to invoke Manjusri before exams.
Here's a very rough transcription of the Tibetan prayer. I didn't write it (there are a few known typos) but am only providing it for your enjoyment.
Lama dang Goenpo Jetsuen Jampel Yangla Chag Tshel lo//
Gang-gi lodro drib-nyi trin drel nyi tar nam-dag rab-sel wai//
Ji-nyid doen-kuen ji-zhin zig-chir nyid-kyi thug khar leg bam zin//
Gang dak si-pai tson-rar ma-rig muen-thum dug-ngyel gis-zir wai//
Dro tshog kuen-la bu chig tar-tse yen-lag drug chui yang-den sung//
Druk tar cher-drog ngon mong nyid-long leyki chag drol drol-zed ching//
Marig muen-sel dug ngyel nyu-gu ji-nyed chod zed rel-dri nam//
Dod ney dag-ching sa chui tharson yon-oen lue dzog gyal-sey thu wai ku//
Chu thrag chu-dang chunyi gyen-tre dag loi muen-sel jampel yang-la dued//
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi
Tse den khyod kyi khen-rab yod zer gis//
Dag loi ti-mug muen pa rab-sel ne//
Ka dang ten-choe zhung lug tog pa-yi//
Lo dro po pai nang-wa tshel du soel//
Om a ra pa tsa na dhi is the general mantra associated with Manjusri, wisdom, and skill, much like Om mani padme hum is the mantra associated with Avalokiteśvara and compassion.
I have the English translation too but it's not currently accessible so I'm going to post it later.
Pronunciation:
Manjusri - MAWN-joo-shree
Avalokiteśvara - This one is long and kinda confusing. I've heard it pronounced a huge variety of ways, by articulating the V and not articulating the V, by pronouncing the V as a U, and by pronouncing the s as a "sh" sound (that one is pretty standard). For the most part, I know it as Ava-loki-teh-shuARR-ah
Jampelyang - JAWM-pel-yong (the l and y kinda get slurred together so it's more like jawm-pely-ong)
Chenrezig - Chen-REH-zee (the G at the end tends to get dropped, isn't really articulated)
Meditation in Bhutan
The interesting thing about meditation in Bhutan (and possibly other Himalayan or Buddhist countries, I don't really know) is that when you think about the monk body, you assume that all monks and nuns, from a young age, learn to meditate. That a great deal of their time is spent meditating. That they begin early and practice it through their apprenticeships and into adulthood.
Actually, that's not the case. While many laypersons may dabble casually in meditation (the college had a weekly meditation group, for example), the monks and nuns are STRICTLY NOT ALLOWED TO DO IT. In fact, they're not allowed to even START meditating until after they finish the monastic equivalent of a college education.
There are some interesting reasons for this, and it makes sense when you understand the sect of Buddhism that is prevalent in Bhutan.
Quick overview of Buddhist philosophy: the two primary forms are Theravada and Mahayana. Theravada (lit: "The Teachings of the Elders") is a philosophy which is contrasted with Mahayana primarily because the latter holds the ideal of the Bodhisattva to be higher than the quest for personal enlightenment, which is the goal of the former.
Let's unpack that a little. Bodhisattvas are beings who have achieved enlightenment and become liberated from the mundane world and the cycle of rebirth and redeath BUT they volunteer to stay behind, trapped in the circle of life, in order to help other people achieve enlightenment.
Mahayana literally translates to "The Great Vehicle," because they believe that they can and should achieve enlightenment primarily for the purpose of helping all other sentient beings. Think of Mahayana like a big minivan, where you can pack in a lot of people and help them all achieve liberation.
Theravada, on the other hand, is sometimes pejoratively referred to as Hinayana, meaning "The Lesser Vehicle." For the most part, that name isn't used because it has such negative connotations. Theravadists are criticized because they believe that one should attain personal liberation...and then that's it. It's like a Smart Car rather than a minivan, because you don't make it a personal quest to help others achieve enlightenment. Rather, it's every man for himself. (Not that they don't practice compassion. Just that they don't do it in the same way as the Mahayanists.)
Then we've got Vajrayana. It's not the "Lesser Vehicle" or the "Greater Vehicle" -- it's the "Thunderbolt Vehicle." It's the Formula One of cars. It's like Mahayana on crack.
Vajrayanists hold the ideal of the Bodhisattva above everything else, but they differ from Mahayana because they believe that you can achieve enlightenment in one lifetime. Vajrayana is such a powerful path, however, that if you take your vows and pledge to follow this way and then later decide to stop practicing or to give up, practitioners believe that you will literally go insane. It's not to be dabbled with lightly. You have to FULLY COMMIT to this practice before obtaining a teacher.
This is the form of Buddhism that the Bhutanese follow.
Many sects of Buddhism have different ways to practice meditation. Vajrayana practitioners primarily engage in elaborate visualization techniques. The most common of these is a practice where you concentrate on the image of a Bodhisattva (note: not as easy as it sounds!) and then visualize yourself as that Bodhisattva. It's an extremely powerful method where you actually visualize yourself as taking on the attributes of this powerful being and then project rays of compassion all over the world.
However, you can't practice this lightly, and you have to be pure when you sit. By assuming this form and sending out vibes you can actually unintentionally pollute the stuff you're spreading. Not only are you in danger of becoming egoic ("haha, hey, I'm as awesome as a Bodhisattva! I'm practically a deity already!"), you can harm the people around you.
So, because it's such a dangerous practice, and more than a little volatile, monks and nuns are not allowed to engage in meditation before they complete their education and are deemed ready to handle it.
But when they do start meditating, they go whole hog. They finish their education, graduate, and immediately enter an insane meditative retreat: three years, three months, and three days straight, secluded from the world and the younger students. Most monasteries and nunneries have a special building to house everyone who is in retreat, and they basically can't leave it for three years, not even to go to the dining area; the cooks bring them food.
So yeah, next time you practice the gentle, supportive meditative practices of self-care that are so popular in the Western world, just know that out there exist contemplative techniques so powerful and potent that people believe it's able to make you go insane.
Homosexuality in Bhutan
Since I broached the subject when I linked to this recent article in BBS (Bhutan Broadcasting Service) about homosexuality/queer identity in Bhutan, I figured I'd talk a little bit about what I observed while I was in Bhutan.
Homosexuality isn't discussed.
It's not mentioned. Talked about. Not at all.
This leads to an unusual (by Western standards) dynamic among men and women in social situations.
Since homosexuality isn't discussed, it means that:
most people are ignorant about what it means
everyone who is gay is VERY in the closet. There are about 5 openly queer Bhutanese in the whole country (believe me, everyone knows who's out)
but no one is afraid of being "called out" as gay just for showing affection to their friends
so, men are very physically affectionate with men, and women are very physically affectionate with women
It was very common to see men holding hands, hugging, and putting their arms around each other.
Because Bhutanese children grow up sleeping in the same room with the rest of their family, it means that even after they go off to college, live in a dorm, and gain a little autonomy, they hate sleeping alone.
All the rooms at RTC were doubles or triples -- no student ever had his/her own room. It means that friends frequently have sleepovers. If a roommate is absent, a girl will sleep in her friend's room so she isn't alone, sharing a twin-sized bed without a hint of self-consciousness.
(For the record, men and women lived in same-sex dorms and even visiting a dorm of the opposite sex could get you expelled. So guys and girls did NOT sleep together at night.)
This means that not only did men crawl into bed with each other with equal enthusiasm, but (I have on good authority from my male friends with Bhutanese roommates) they frequently spooned, snuggled, and stroked each other's arms. In a platonic, nonsexual way.
One of the other students from my school who went on the trip to Bhutan several years ago (a gay student who has done extensive traveling and research and has engaged in international activist movements) told us, "I've been in 22 countries over 5 continents, and Bhutan has the most physical affection between men that I've ever seen."
But let's get back to "ignorance"
It's lovely that men aren't afraid to engage in public displays of affection with their closest male friends, but on the flip side...
...not talking about homosexuality or LGBTQ rights means that most of the population is very ignorant about what it means.
One of the American students on the trip with us was gay. He's also a dreamboat -- hands down the most attractive male of the bunch. So, naturally, he attracted a lot of female Bhutanese attention; all the girls had crushes on him, including one of my roommates.
When he came out to his Bhutanese friends, word traveled pretty fast -- and I found myself having to console my heartbroken roommate. But I also took the opportunity to ask a few questions about what her perspective on homosexuality was, and we engaged in a weird sort of discourse about it.
Her: How can he be a gay? He's so smart!
(Two cringes, right away. To be fair, English is her fifth language...but the phrase "a gay" still unsettles me. The second part, "he's so smart" as a protest against why he can't possibly be gay was a weird refrain that I heard over and over again from multiple Bhutanese. I'm not sure how to unpack that.)
Her: Can I ask a question? What parts does he have?
Me: Huh?
Her: [struggling] Does he...have woman parts down...there?
Me: Oh jeez. No, no. He's a man. He has male genitals.
Her: Because my aunt's brother's cousin...we think he is a gay and one time when he was sleeping my aunt looked and she said he was like a woman there.
Me: No, that's different. [I now find myself explaining the entire spectrum of LGBTQ to a girl who has never before had to construct schemas to deal with this issue.]
Her: [silently digesting for several minutes. Finally:] But he's so smart!
(To be fair, she was pretty heartbroken. Buuuut still.
Me: Would you rather know that he was gay, and that he couldn't return your affection, or that he was in a relationship with another woman and didn't want to return your affection?
Her: I'd rather he was with a woman! Because then I could make him want to be with me.
(I think she missed my point.)
Her: Do you think maybe...if he tried to be with me, he would change his mind?
(Oh, here we go. Even without ever before hearing the "you just need the right woman to make you straight" argument, my roommate was reverting to it.)
Me: No. It's not about choice. This is the way he is. Let me ask you a question: do you think that a woman could turn you into a lesbian?
Her: [looking vaguely disgusted] No!
Me: A woman can't make him straight, either. Your sexual orientation isn't a choice. You can't change it. He can't change his, either. He likes men just like you like men.
(My roommate digests this information. Her friend, who had been sitting quietly by and listening, now speaks up.)
Friend: Yeah! You can't change it. He doesn't like girls just like you don't like girls.
(I'm relieved that the friend is coming with me on this one. She's seemed to grasp what I've said and agrees. Roommate still looks sullen and stymied.)
Her: But he's so smaaaart!
Homosexuality and Buddhism
Homosexuality and Buddhism have a relationship that's difficult to pin down. In theory, Buddhism preaches a certain level of tolerance. In practice, it's not that simple.
On one hand, same-sex relations is considered "sexual misconduct" for Buddhist laypersons. Strangely, though Buddhism doesn't have quite the same concept of "sin" as the Western Judeo-Christian world does, my roommate did use the word "sin" when discussing homosexual relationships.
I pressed the issue and she said that Buddhists (note: this isn't a universal statement on Buddhists -- more likely refers strictly to Bhutanese Buddhists or Tibetan Buddhists or Buddhists in the Drukpa Kagyu tradition) believe that gay people are born this way because of sins in a past life. This is the first I've heard of karmic debt contributing to a queer lifestyle.
The Dalai Lama, the salient spokesperson for Buddhism, has made a few statements on homosexuality ranging from (paraphrasing) "as long as it's not hurting anyone, go ahead," to "homosexuality isn't improper, but using sexual organs in those ways is improper...even for heterosexuals" ("those ways" meaning oral sex, anal sex, masturbation, and anything that isn't strictly penis-in-vagina), from "homosexual acts are a form of sexual misconduct" to "everyone, including gay people, need universal human rights."
You can see why it's difficult to get a clear picture of the Buddhist stance on homosexuality. (Keeping in mind that Buddhism is just the umbrella term for a huge number of individual traditions. It is large, it contains multitudes.)
The Bhutanese LGBT movement is just getting started
It's true that the relatively-new LGBT movement (the movement = a facebook page) is opening a channel of discourse where there previously was nothing.
Like I said earlier, most queer Bhutanese are still in the closet -- VERY in the closet. But that's starting to change, little by little.
Article from the Bhutan Broadcasting Service (written by Namgay Zam, whom I love, and featuring several of my friends' commentaries) about homosexuality and queer identity in Bhutan.
I haven't finished telling you guys all about Bhutan yet -- but here's some more stuff about Thailand. I've written a post about it once before because we had a layover in Bangkok on our way to Bhutan, but now we had a longer layover there on our way back as well.
The girl who wasn't allowed to stay in Thailand last time was able to get her visa straightened out so she (and the girl who stayed with her in the airport last time) were able to come hang out with us.
Last time we were in Bangkok, we had our professor with us, and we were staying in a hotel that was away from the main hub of culture and nightlife. This time our professor was absent (he was taking a different route to get home, through Nepal), and the college had decided to book us a hotel situating us right in the center of everything interesting going on in Bangkok.
We're not exactly sure they knew what they signed us up for -- we were smack-dab in the middle of the most heavily-trafficked strip of tourist nightlife. We could walk out the front doors of the hotel and BAM there it was: street vendors trying to sell us fried scorpions on sticks ("eating will make you STRONG"); restaurants where the name, according to the sign above the door, was some variation on "NO ID CARD HERE RESTAURANT" or "STRONGER ALCOHOL DRINK HERE RESTAURANT"; and guys on the street with huge drink menus who kept trying to steer us towards seats and sell us literal buckets of booze.
There were flashing neon lights, tattoo parlors, hordes of drunken frat bros, people selling the kind of whizzing, spinning merchandise you usually see vendors carrying at Disney, people pushing carts up the crowded street full of varieties of cooked bugs for eating...
We're pretty sure our professor DID know what we were in for with this new hotel, given the cautionary speech he gave us before we departed in Bhutan. It was the fourth of July when we left, which meant that the American embassy would be closed that day...and for the rest of the week...and for the weekend. It would have been a very bad time to make a mistake in Thailand.
It was overwhelming, especially after coming from such a bucolic, beautiful country. We all were hit right in the face with a big blast of culture shock. In Thailand, just looking around at all the tourists, we kept repeating, "I haven't seen so many chillups (foreigners) in one place for months!"
And we also kinda loved it. We had three nights in Thailand, so we went out and lived it up -- strolling the pedestrian nightlife streets at night (more like pushing through crowds of people rather than walking idly) and checking out the cultural landmarks during the day.
Thailand was hot. And believe me, I was born and raised in Florida -- I know what hot feels like. This was hotter.
We made good use of the hotel pool and bought loose comfy clothes from the vendors on the street (I got four pairs of pants with the cinched ankle. Wearing them makes me feel like Jasmine). And sweated a lot. But kept hydrated, too.
We ate a lot of great food (street food there is tops) and saw a lot more of the city than we got to experience last time.
If you spend enough time in a foreign country, things stop feeling “foreign” and start feeling normal; sometimes you don't realize just how normal until you return home.
Last one -- I wrote another guest post about what it was like to repatriate in the United States after living in Bhutan for five months. Reflections on waste, comfort, and poverty.
Bhutan is one of the few countries that still identifies as a Buddhist Kingdom. What's it like to live there as an expat brought up in the Judeo-Christian tradition?
I wrote a guest post for Future Expats about what it's like to live in a Buddhist country. Go read it!
How can I sum up five months of life abroad, the geopolitical history and the religion upon which all understanding of the country is founded, the feeling of being an international student in a Bhutanese college, and all the tiny cultural details that make up the entire experience?
Hey guys. My mom runs this expat website and I wrote a guest post about Bhutan and my favorite part of the whole experience. Go check it out! Check out the rest of her website while you're at it.
Let's recap. In four and a half months in Bhutan, I:
taught Buddhist nuns how to use the computer
played truth-or-dare with Buddhist nuns
camped and hiked in the Himalayan mountains
met the King and Queen of Bhutan
had lunch with the King and Queen of Bhutan
asked the King of Bhutan if he's a Doctor Who fan (he's not, but he and the Queen do watch Game of Thrones)
drank wine out of a human skull
participated with a group of monks in a ritual on the anniversary of Shabdrung's death
met a reincarnate being
helped rebuild a monastic school
went clubbing with members of the royal family
watched Bhutan go through their second (ever) democratic elections
hiked up to Taktsang (Tiger's Nest Temple)
celebrated the first International Day of Happiness in the country known for Gross National Happiness
visited six out of the twenty districts of Bhutan
learned traditional Bhutanese dance
was in the Bhutanese national newspaper...twice
visited temples that have been standing since the 7th century
was blessed and cleansed of my sins many times over
learned how to tie and wear the Bhutanese national dress...and then wore it almost every day
visited countless religious sites and temples
attended several tsechu (local religious festivals)
soaked in the hot springs in Gasa
was taught Buddhism under a Bodhi tree, the same kind of tree under which the Buddha achieved enlightenment
and most importantly...
learned firsthand what it's like to live, work, study, teach, travel, explore, and practice religion in the Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan -- an experience that few people ever get to have in a country where tourism is heavily regulated
I'm a very lucky person!
I'm home!
Yes, it's true. My semester in Bhutan has ended, and I'm back in the states. But don't worry -- I've still got LOTS to discuss on this blog, so I'll keep updating until I run out of things to say.
Some common Bhutanese names
Sonam Karma Dorji Pema Leki Wangchuck Namgay Namgyel Sangay/Sangye Jigme Tenzin Rigzin Lhamo Ugyen Tshering Tsewang Norbu Ngawang Chimi Yeshey Many of these names have religious meaning (such as Dorji, Karma, and Norbu, which mean vajra, karma, and jewel) and the majority of them are unisex. Since Bhutanese don't have a "family name," you might have children who don't have any names of their parents. So a father named Ugyen Lhamo and a mother named Tshering Wangmo might have two children: Sonam Wangchuck and Jigme Dorji. And you wouldn't be able to tell from the name alone whether Sonam and Jigme are male or female.
Zorig Chusum - the thirteen traditional arts of Bhutan On June 1st we visited Zorig Chusum, the school for teaching the 13 traditional arts of Bhutan. They include: wood work (Shingzo), stone carving (Dozo), text writing (Parzo), painting (Lhazo), sculpture (Jimzo), casting (Lugzo), wood turning (Shagzo), blacksmithing (Garzo), ornament making (Troe ko), bamboo work (Tsherzo), paper making (Dezo), tailoring/embroidery (Tshemzo), and weaving (Thagzo).