A view of the North Platte River from Dugway Campground outside of Sinclair, WY. Dugway is a free campground on BLM land, you can stay for 14 days in a year. Surrounded by high ridges, there is no cell service, even with a booster.
It’s easy to have a good time in Badlands National Park in South Dakota. The park’s rugged beauty comes from millions of years of geologic forces building up and tearing down this unique landscape and can be explored from numerous trails. Visitors can see bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs and black-footed ferrets in their native habitat as well as the fossilized remains of ancient mammals like three-toed horses, oreodonts and saber-toothed cats. Pretty cool. Photo by David Restivo, National Park Service.
The Bordering Buffalo Gap National Grassland has some nice views too, and free dispersed camping! Unfortunately I had to pass, but I stopped by and oh boy they have some great spots!
Last Year’s Misadventure on the Superior Hiking Trail
I sit here today at Trout Creek Camp on the Superior Hiking Trail, every time I come out here people say it will be flowing… yet again! Trout Creek is dry, I’ve never seen any water over there. Anyway, I’m here today on day 0, I never really count the first day because you have to get where you’re going before you head out, I mean I usually spend the night before on the trail then begin the real hiking. So, less than 2 miles today.
This is the most people I’ve ever seen at the Trout Creek Campsite, there is a group of 8 young people here and I see a lot of heavy gear, including, a full-size ceramic coated pot, the thing is HUGE! I ain’t seen one of the things since the last time I went to a group camp for a school trip.
I don’t plan on eating tonight because I ate way too much on the way up here, I knew that’s how it would go so I didn’t pack any food for today. Water on the other hand, well I’m drinking a lot, temperatures are great, nice and cool, but it’s been a while since I’ve been out here. I noticed my water filter is a little tight, hopefully, it doesn’t clog, the problem isn’t the filter, the problem is backflushing a filter with sink water, I’ve heard there’s too much gunk in sink water and it calcifies the filter, user error. Sawyers are getting cheaper these days so I’ll grab another one before my next adventure. Also, they have a fitting so you can backflush with your clean water bottle. I totally have to get one of those, it just makes so much more sense than the plunger.
Once again, I proved the scent proof bags I use for a food bag liner work. Because yet again a chipmunk hopped right passed the bag was laying on the ground. While we are on the subject of food bags, Trout Creek Camp can be a pain to find somewhere to hang your food.
Day 1, Trout Creek Camp to Devil’s Track
I lost the top to my phone mount, so… no cool overlook pictures. I left trout creek this morning and managed to make it to Devil’s Track! I had to descend into the canyon at Devil’s Track at night which seemed sketchy as the edge of the trail was pitch black. I can only assume there’s a cliff there. I’m very interested in seeing what’s out there, I’m staying at the west camp. It seems nice, today was my first ever 20-mile day! The new insoles are working great. Before I wouldn’t even have attempted 20 miles, my feet would start feeling like this after 10. Mission success, I’m not going to bother eating, I took a break at the Pincushion Mountain Trailhead and ate some jerky and banana chips there. Shame, I was looking forward to a hot meal. I managed to gather a liter of water in the dark, I drank half now and I already know I’m going to wake up in the night thirsty so I’ll save the rest for that, perhaps I’ll make the Ramen for breakfast.
Day 2, Let the Misadventure Begin!
I was doing so well, but my sawyer bag ruptured, the sawyer was just too calcified to work right, it too much pressure to filter the water and BAM, the bag separated at the top. It’s just sitting over there taunting me. I have some bad luck with water filters, on the thru-hike, last year, guess what? Yep, the filter failed. So now I have to turn back. Lesson learned, don’t backwash sawyers with tap water. Another lesson also finally learned, bring a backup for water treatment. Boiling does not count! It takes way too long to cover good ground when you have to boil. I’m thinking about iodine, it’s easy, fast and light. But it tastes horrible, I’ve used it before in a 2-week excursion in the Canadian side of Lake of the woods, fortunately, someone had a filter. That was a long time ago, back when the only filters available were like $300+ and clogged pretty fast.
Just remember, with important things like water when you are out in the wilderness, redundancy is key. What would happen if I needed to get off the trail ASAP and boiling was just delaying me? Could become a life-threatening situation pretty quick.
I was able to get off the trail, I hiked back to the Pincushion Trailhead, then through Grand Marais and most of the way to Cascade River State Park along Highway 61 before finally I was able to hitch a ride, two guys in a big truck really helped me out. Also, that was the third time I’ve had to hitchhike, so 3/3 success rate, I have nothing to complain about.
I already ordered a new filter, I’m waiting at base camp until it arrives, then I’ll head back out.
Although I failed to complete my challenge, from the beginning this has been about hiking 20 mile days, which I succeeded. Then completing the North Country Trail hike 100 challenge. So, there will be an update in route but nothing is gonna stop me from getting the 2018 patches. NOTHING.
The Updated Route
The new route is pretty much the same as the old one just shorter as I am running out of time to complete the 100-mile challenge. With my existing 40 miles the below route will total 100.7 miles:
One last push on the way back to cascade doing 21 miles, I know it can be done! I’ll have a nice state park campsite and a shower waiting for me when I get back.
Pre-Hike Again, in Grand Marais, Artists Point, and Cascade River State Park
I stopped in Grand Marais to eat some pizza with a view before heading to the campground. Artists Point is a great place to stop and eat some food from town.
This time I’m staying at the Cascade River State Park Campground, got site #30 non-electric, close to the showers, this is great for a tent, there’s a little spot inset in the back to set up. Also, in case you are wondering, the Cascade River State Park shower facility has always been clean and well maintained every time I’ve been here. It’s a newer facility and I have to say it’s my favorite out of the North Shore State Parks. I do have one problem though, the vending machine in the trail center used to have root beer, now it doesn’t and that is disappointing. I’m already settled in and don’t want to go back into town.
Cascade River State Park to Bally Creek Pond Camp South
I head out around 7 – 8 am, had a smooth start for the most part. The GoPro already died, it just can’t handle 40° nights…
I’m taking a lunch break alongside the cascade river, as you can see from the photo below, it was a nice place to teak a break!
Made it to bally creek pond camp south, I’m staying here for the night. Boy, it’s chilly with the wind blowing out here.
The water at the bally creek campsites comes from the pond, filtered with a sawyer it tastes earthy but clean. The CNOC bottle I got works great! It grabs 2 liters out of the pond real fast. Check out the Cnoc Outdoors Vecto 2L Water Container, 28mm, Orange on Amazon – https://amzn.to/2QOJGkG *.
I still have a breakfast bar, a cliff bar and a Ramen that I can eat today. I had a 400 calorie candy bar for breakfast so I have some extra food for today. I need to wait until at least 6 pm to make the Ramen. I want the warm food in the belly closer to bedtime. I’ll have to wait until then to use the new BRS stove – https://amzn.to/2yiQRui *. I boiled 2 cups at basecamp with it and I was impressed. I’m looking forward to using it the field.
A Rainy Day Back to Devil’s Track West Camp
Sleeping pad has a small leak, had to reinflate several times throughout the morning. I’m not going to be able to find the leak without soapy water, so I’ll just be dealing with it for now. I have the REI flash all season (regular wide), I do like it but people have had some problems with it. I’m hoping this is just a pinhole leak. Otherwise, if I can’t find the leak I’ll return it.
Oh, boy did it rain today! Started around when I left camp and stopped when I got to Devil’s Track West. My poncho did a great job keeping everything dry, it’s heavy but it works so well, I don’t really want to replace it. My hat worked beautifully as well, keeping my head dry from the rain. My shoes are soaked, not much I can do about that. I’m more concerned that the temps for the rest of the hike have lows down to 32° and my sleeping pad is leaking… If I could find the hole I could patch it.
Quite the Superior Hiking Trail Misadventure
I’m at Devil’s Track Camp West, AGAIN. It’s going to be a cold night at 34°, I timed the leak on the sleeping pad. It lasts 19 minutes until my butt hits the cold ground. I put my z-seat under there, that should buy me some time before my core touches the ground. It’ll be cold enough to instantly wake up. At that point, I will reinflate the sleeping pad. It’s too dangerous in these temperatures not having a trustworthy sleeping pad. Once again it’s time to turn around… The sleeping pad completely failed. It’s gonna be a rough night, I miss my x-therm, I should have just got the long version, that would have lasted.
At least the North Country Trail Hike 50 is complete…
Just missed the freeze!
Being out on the trail without a sleeping pad in freezing weather is dangerous, the ground will suck the heat right out of you, leaving you hypothermic. I pushed hard over 20 miles to get back to cascade, gear heavy with water from the rain days prior, boots soaked through, the big freeze incoming, and freezing lake winds the pierce right through your entire being. But I made it back so hey, I call it a success…
So I’m off the trail again, but I still have a reservation at Cascade River State Park Campground for Sunday. I’m going to day hike the remaining 20 miles, 10 on Sunday and 10 on Monday. I’ll still be pushing forward to cover the previous route but I won’t be camping on the trail, I’ll be in the nice warm camper car.
Pincushion Trailhead to Woods Creek Camp and Back
I spent the better part of two weeks trying to cross the bridge over the Devil’s Track river, and finally today there was no gear failure! It’s crazy to think I had gear fail in the same place twice in a row, the filter and the sleeping pad.
The views from this side of the river are spectacular as you can see from the photo of Devil’s Track Canyon and Lake Superior on the horizon. This was taken near the Barrier Falls Overlook, which at first was disappointing because you can’t see Barrier Falls, too many trees in the way. It took some effort to finally get out here given the gear situation but it was still well worth it.
After the hike, I stopped at the Angry Trout Cafe and had a bison tenderloin and it was absolutely delicious, so much that I had to share it here!
Lindskog Rd Trailhead 5 miles Out and Back
Today I was leaving Cascade River State Park to finish the hike and a wolf walked right up to my car! Got about two feet away and slowed down before continuing on up the entrance road. I was so stunned by the unexpected encounter that I couldn’t even grab the camera to shoot some photos. Part of me is disappointed I didn’t grab the camera, but it is more important to capture the memory of an experience in your mind before taking pictures, I’m an adventurer, I don’t consider myself a photographer. My adventure is more important to me that capturing it on film, but it would have been pretty sweet. Back to the hike!
This was a pretty average hike for me to be honest, the trail follows woods creek for a while. I noticed that the water is so much clearer here, I refilled my bottles at Duffree Creek and the water is almost crystal clear with just the slightest brown tinge from tannins in the water, which is common in the forest. The most notable part of this hike was the length of this unobstructed view of Lake Superior from the trail, I don’t believe this is even an “official” overlook, It’s just part of the trail.
Finally, I Finished to NCT Hike 100 Challenge!
This is the second year I have finished the North Country Trail Hike 100, and this year they also had the Hike 50 Challenge which I also completed. I think this is a great program that motivates not just people like me, but everyone to get out there and hike the NCT in their state. Minnesota is fortunate that the Superior Hiking Trail follows this route, not only do you get some nice patches, but you also get great memories and the best views in the entire state.
I’ve been many places in my lifetime and I still stand by my saying that the north shore of Minnesota is the most beautiful and unique place I’ve ever been.
Dude Ranch Lakeside Use Area is a site ran by the Army Corps of Engineers and you can camp here free for 7 days! There are a few spots with picnic tables for RVs in a gravel parking area, but there are also other spots around the sight capable of fitting RVs and tents.
The water of the Missouri River is nice and cool on a hot day and the gravel beach was decently clean. If you come here for the free camping there is a dumpster near the entrance, use it or take your garbage with you, leave no trace.
If you check the maps of most national forests you will find FS roads that allow dispersed camping for up to 14 days in a 60 day period. Although there are many spectacular views in the Black Hills, this has been mine for the last 14 days. For the most part it was quiet but OHVs frequent the area and holy cow, there was a herd of cows that graze the area.
I guess it was the stormy season, as there was frequent severe weather. Storms seem to develop out of nowhere. But now more than ever, I am confident in my rig to take the weather. One night I was broadsided by 70mph winds and although the boat was a rockin, she stayed on her wheels. However, the powerful winds did force rain through the seams of the windows and cracked a vent cover. Intrigued by a flex-seal spray ad https://amzn.to/2TvOcXG* , I decided to give it a try. Now I will keep an extra can on hand, because I fixed a few minor leaks that would have taken much more work to fix than it would have been worth.
Where I stayed was decently close to the city, but these are the types of locations I don’t share. They are small and so infrequently used that even the locals don’t know you can camp here. If everybody were to flock to a small location like this it would be shut down in short order. So for the benefit of other nomads like me, I will keep this location secret.
I’m pretty much on top of a hill in Black Hills National Forest and there’s a storm. It was severe, but it weakened through the hills. However, the lightning was still potent. I was surrounded by cloud to ground lightning on all sides, it was… Shocking!
In all seriousness it was a dangerous situation. My RV is grounded with metal stabilizing jacks and my cell booster antenna which I fortunately lowered before the storm, can reach 16ft in the air, not a good thing during a lightning storm. But I did manage (I think) to get some video of cool lightning strikes.
The night started out so peaceful, I guess it was just the calm before the storm.
A Fundamental American Road Trip, The Grand Canyon
I cannot tell you how many times I’ve seen a car full of young adventurous people with “Grand Canyon Road Trip” written on the rear window with soap. The Grand Canyon is one of the most famous destinations in the United States and besides the fee to enter the National Park, it was pretty much hassle-free, not counting lodging or camping reservations during the peak season of course. Doesn’t matter where you are in the world, if it’s popular, chances are there might be a hassle finding a place to stay if you didn’t plan ahead.
I visited Grand Canyon National Park during early peak season, even then I was fortunate enough to get the last room at a nice hotel in Williams, AZ, which was 56 miles from the southern ranger station. I arrived at the hotel in the evening, the sun had already set, there is a very important rule to a scenic road trip, do NOT drive at night, you will miss a lot. As the sun was setting I was still in the desert and when I arrived at the hotel after dark, I was on a mountain, snow and all. I missed the transition from hot desert to cold mountain and I’m sure it would have been a great sight. So take it from me when I say, don’t drive at night.
The typical trip to the Grand Canyon consists of driving from viewpoint to viewpoint, each viewpoint had places to park and I would hate to see what that’s like in peak season. There are also several viewpoints to the west after the park headquarters that were only accessible by shuttle. Many of the viewpoints have guard rails but keep in mind there are some areas where no guard rails exist, don’t fall trying to take that selfie at the edge of a cliff... There’s an abundance of things to do at the Grand Canyon and the surrounding area, helicopter tours, gift shops, hiking, camping and more. Since this was before my hiking days I’ll save that for another post. Regardless what you decide to do, you will stand in awe with the vast canyon the sits before you.
The Grand Canyon is located at Grand Canyon National Park, AZ.
South Entrance
Grand Canyon National Park
AZ-64, Grand Canyon Village, AZ 86023
Driving directions (Google Maps)
East Entrance
Grand Canyon East Entrance
Grand Canyon Village, AZ 86023
What an experience, to hike hundreds of miles through some of the most beautiful places in the world, the Superior Hiking Trail is the crown jewel of Minnesota hiking. The 310 Mile trail also passes through 8 Minnesota State Parks featuring unique terrain, waterfalls and some of the oldest rock in the world.
I’m pretty much on top of a hill in Black Hills National Forest and there’s a storm. It was severe, but it weakened through the hills. However, the lightning was still potent. I was surrounded by cloud to ground lightning on all sides, it was... Shocking!
A Pancho that Covers Your Pack is an Amazing Thing!
Seriously, a poncho that covers both you and your pack is an amazing thing. I can not stress enough how much it sucks getting everything wet, on this same trip I waited too long to pull out the poncho and the rains came in, this was a big mistake, everything was wet for days. The Superior Hiking Trail Conditions during spring, off of Lake Superior is unpredictable. For example, after everything got wet, I finally had a sunny day, left everything out to dry and in the morning I woke up, exit the tent and everything is white. It wasn’t snow, it was frost, you see it had been raining for a while and then one night the weather decides to dip below freezing and all the water that was dumped on the ground over the previous days froze, covering everything in a white layer of ice, it was cold!
Eventually everything dried out and from that point on at the first sign of incoming rain, I pulled out the poncho and wrapped it over my pack as you see in the picture and when the rain would start coming down, all I would have to do is pull the poncho over me and I was all set for the downpour. Only the bottom of my pants would get wet, it would be better if the poncho was longer, but I’m a tall guy so that’s easier said than done.
This is the poncho I’m using in the picture – https://amzn.to/2Js1bUw *
