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Today's Document
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@wilsoninasia
Frogs beings cows. Jokes. (Turn up volume).
Koh Samui - Lamai
At 11:30am we boarded a coach in Surat that would take us to the ferry bound for Koh Samui. At 11:32am we (along with the other "farrangs" or foreigners) were taken off of the coach and put into a minivan while the Thai's stayed on the coach. For what reason this happened is unknown, we can only assume that the tour company had overbooked! This was annoying and a touch worrying as our bags stayed on the coach but we went with it. Around 45 minutes into the drive there was an abrupt swerve and a huge bump, unbelievably our driver had fallen asleep and hit the curb! Luckily we bounced off and stayed on the road. Understandably people were seriously unhappy and words were exchanged, however with only 15 mins of the drive left and all the passengers watching the driver like a hawk we made it to the ferry port. The rest of the journey went smoothly and we arrived in Koh Samui. We jumped into a minibus and headed for Lamai Beach. We checked into our hotel; Samui Beach Resort, and headed to the beach... And it rained! We walked the length of the beach as the rain eased trying to find the bungalows that Helen had stayed in 5 years ago. Sadly our quest was redundant as they no longer seemed to exist! As the evening drew closer the weather eased up and the skies became clearer so we decided to head into the town for dinner and a drink or two. 30mins later we arrived in the town and 2mins after that we decided to book into a place closer to the town for the following night! We had a nice fried rice dinner for only 100 Baht (ÂŁ2)! Total price, not each! After dinner we headed to a bar and drank some cocktails. The following day we checked out of our hotel and moved down the beach to another place closer to the town, the weather was better than the day before so most of the day was spent on the beach and in the sea. Around 3pm there was a large rain shower so we headed back to the room and realised that we had put laundry in the day before at the previous hotel! So after the rain had stopped we had to do an hour round trip to pick up our bloody laundry! The next day we had decided to move away from Lamai, mainly due to how quiet it was, and head for Chawang.
Wilson catching some rays on Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui
Khanom and the Pink Dolphins
Before heading to our final island we headed with Tim to place called Khanom. This was about an hour away from Surat on the north east coast. Khanom is the home of some dolphins known as pink dolphins (they're pink, obviously) and we were hoping to spot a few. For this journey we hired motorbikes from Surat. The journey was pleasant enough along the duel carriageways, it's a journey Tim has done many times. He and his friends often go to Khanom for a weekend as it's the nearest beach to Surat. We did however on the way see a tourist bus on its way to the ferry port being craned out of a ditch! Lucky the damage looked largely superficial. We arrived early afternoon accompanied by blue skies at a place called C C's Beach Bar which is owned by a nice man called Charlie, apparently from Guildford. We had some lunch and spent the afternoon on the beach. The evening was spent drinking at C C's a Beach Bar before retiring to our bungalows where we fell asleep listening to the waves crash on the shore.
The following morning we headed down to the boats around 7:30am in the hope of seeing some pink dolphins. The longtail boat travelled for around 30 mins in a fleet of around 10 looking for the dolphins. After a while of searching we spotted one! A big male apparently, swimming around the boats stuffing himself with all the fish being thrown to him. It was quite a sight to see and he was indeed very pink! After all the boats ran out of fish we headed to a small island where freshwater comes up from an underground spring and meets with the seawater. There is a small Buddha statue also on the island, the Thai people who travelled on the boats did some praying while we took photos. After this we headed back to the shore and then rode our bikes back to Surat. We booked our tickets for the ferry to our final island of the trip, Koh Samui. NOTE: We do actually have evidence of the pink dolphins however the photos are on Helen's posh camera as my iPhone was as useful as a chocolate teapot. When we get to an actual proper computer with USB ports and stuff we will upload!
Cheow Lan Dam (Ratchaprapa Dam) (and white skin)
Helen's brother, Tim, kindly booked a trip for the 3 of us to a national park about an hour from Surat. This involved getting up around 6am and heading to a tour office, which then took us to a boat which took us to our resort on a lake. The journey on the boat was amazing. Technically Ratchaprapah is a lake but it's massive! From what we understand, they built a dam and then flooded a whole region which has now become a national park. The tops of mountains protrude from the lake creating hundreds of small islands. We cruised in a longtail boat through these mountain tops stopping at various places to take in the beauty until we arrived at our resort about an hour and a half later. The resort consisted of a large restaurant and bar, and approximately 12 bungalows all of which were floating on the lake.
We had lunch as soon as we arrived. This was a buffet of deep fried fish, a pork curry and vegetables accompanied by the Thai staple that is rice, rice and more rice. It was very tasty! After lunch we had the afternoon to relax on the lake, either sunbathing by our floating house or paddling about in the kayaks. We were lucky with the weather as it remained sunny for most of the day. It did however rain for a small time later in the afternoon, bizarrely this in when all the Thai people who were staying came out for a swim! We later found out that Thai people generally dislike the sun as they do not want a tan. To have a tan is considered to be the mark of someone who works outdoors (ie building works or farmers) and is considered therefore poor and/or unsuccessful! It seems that people here are sold the idea that white people are successful and therefore products like whitening creams are everywhere. Makeup, suntan lotion, deodorant etc all contain bleaching agents. It's a bit of a sad affair really but I guess ironically we are sold the same idea, only for us a tan is considered the mark of success. The mark of someone who can afford holidays in the sun or a second house somewhere in France... Either way we all got to have a swim!
In the evening we had another equally delicious buffet dinner, although the Massaman curry was outrageously hot, a fact which Helen found out a little too late! The evening was spent relaxing in the bungalow and enjoying the calm. The following morning we headed out early on the boats to spot the Hornbill, a bird which (we think!) is native to the area and fairly rare. Luckily we spotted a few albeit from a distance away up in the trees. We headed back to the resort for some breakfast Thai style (MORE RICE) and then checked out of our floating bungalow. The longtail boat back took a few detours around some of the more majestic scenery before we got back to where our minibus was waiting.
Night Ferry to Koh Tao
Koh Tao
In order to spend as much time in Koh Tao as possible we decided to get a night ferry from Surat which would leave at 11pm and arrive in Koh Tao at 7am. We arrived at the ferry port at around 10:15pm and boarded the boat. The boat was one large open wooden shell with thin mattresses all lined up next to each other on the floor! Bags went by your feet and valuables under your head! All the tickets were numbered and corresponded to a mattress. We found a moron sleeping across both of our beds so we promptly woke him up and informed him he was on our mattresses. He mumbled something about not realising the tickets/beds were numbered and moved off. Once we were settled in the journey was surprisingly relaxing. The thin mattresses weren't exactly the most comfortable but the calm sea and cool breeze made for a fairly decent sleep. We awoke to a warm sunrise about half an hour before the ferry docked, just enough time to sort ourselves out and gather our belongings. Once on dry land we jumped into the back of a pickup which was cleverly disguised as a taxi and headed to Sairee Beach. We had some breakfast and booked a taxi boat to Nangyuan island, which is made up of two small pieces of land connected by a sand bank. After checking in and having a wonder around Sairee Beach we had some lunch and waited for our taxi boat. These taxi boats are small wooden boats called 'Long Tails' and have an outboard engine on the back. The drive shaft that extends from the motor into the sea is about 12ft long and makes the boat look like it has a tail, hence the name! These are common throughout Thailand. The journey to Nangyuan took only about 10 minutes. The small island is only open until 5pm (unless you're staying in the island resort) and costs 100 Baht (£2) to get onto it. This money goes towards keeping the island tidy and clean. We left our long tail, paid our money and headed across the dock to the sand. Koh Tao is renowned for its diving schools and snorkeling and Nangyuan island has one of the nicest areas for these activities called the Japanese Gardens. We had hired some snorkeling gear so we headed for this area. The water was warm and clear and the marine life was abundant. After snorkeling for a few hours we walked up the hill to a viewpoint that allowed us to see the whole of the island and gave us a great view of Koh Tao. We left Nangyuan just before 5pm and headed back to Koh Tao. We watched the sunset and then spent the evening drinking the beach bars and watching fire dancers. Koh Tao seemed to be very similar to Phi Phi in terms of nightlife. The island is bigger however with bikes and cars compared to Phi Phi where there are no vehicles. The following day was spent walking around the coastal path exploring the various bays and beaches. There are so many little areas to explore. We had lunch up a big hill overlooking a small piece of land called shark island. In the evening we watched a ladyboy caberet show. It was brilliant! There were lookalikes including Brittany Spears, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé. It was incredibly entertaining and you can't help but get drawn into the acts. Actually some people did get literally dragged into the acts! The following day we said goodbye to Koh Tao and headed to Koh Phangnan on the ferry for one of the legendary Full Moon Party's.
Wilson in Koh Tao
Phuket Day 2
On our second day in Patong we decided to hire a motorbike and visit some of the nicer beaches further along the coast. As we were riding along the coast road we encountered a police checkpoint. We were pulled over (along with every other tourist on a motorbike) and I was asked for my driving licence. Obviously nobody here carries their licence with them. This led to a 500 Baht (ÂŁ10) fine after which I was issued a temporary licence and allowed to continue. We later found out that this was a standard practice for the police to earn more money and even if I had my licence on me, they would have still found a way to squeeze some money out of us! Apparently the average wage for the police here is only around 8000-12000 Baht (ÂŁ160-ÂŁ240) per month. You can see why there are so many scams! After our unscheduled stop we continued along the coast until we arrived at Kata Beach. This was a small little resort beach occupied by mainly Russians. The Russians seem to love the resorts here, they're everywhere! The beach was sandy and unspoilt with large rolling waves making their way inshore along the shallow bay. You could walk out a long way before your hair got wet! We spent a few hours enjoying the sun and getting bashed about by the sea before moving onto another beach; Karen Beach.
Karen beach was much the same as Kata save for the size, Karen was much bigger. It was much more touristy here with many sunbeds all along the large stretches of sand. Still it was a beautiful beach with warm water and we spent some more time enjoying the sun and sea. As the day drew to a close and became night we watched the sunset from the beach. The sunsets are spectacular here with the sky changing from blue to yellow to red to purple. We rode back on the bike to Patong where we headed out for a few drinks. The following day we got a mini bus back to Surat Thani to meet Tim Helen's brother), from there we prepared to catch a night boat to Koh Tao...
Phuket (Patong) (Day 1) We arrived in Phuket on the ferry from Koh Phi Phi and headed for Patong. Our taxi driver didn't initially know where our hotel was (which seems to be becoming the norm for us here!), but did eventually get us there after a few exchanges with other taxi drivers! Our hotel was really nice and a bargain considering the facilities. We think the price was due to its location, a 10/15 minute walk to the beaches and tourist areas but hardly a chore. After checking in we took a walk towards the bars and watched the Formula 1, we then strolled about checking out the area. It seemed Patong was all bars, restaurants and guesthouses! There was a nice crowded beach running a few Km's along the shoreline. The evening soon was upon us and we headed out to see what the hype was about. Patong is crazy, seriously crazy. Bars, clubs, 'ping pong' and 'ladyboy' shows were everywhere. The Main Street, Bangla Street, was wall to wall tourists with promoters trying their best to ply them in with drinks promotions and shows. We headed into a few bars and soaked in the atmosphere (and alcohol) of Patong. After a bit of a lengthy conversation we decided to go and watch a Ping Pong show. The shows are free with requirement that each patron must buy at least one drink. Fair enough we thought as we headed up the metal staircase and through the dark corridor. We took our seats as the previous show was ending and were handed a drinks menu. The cheapest bottle of beer was 900 Baht!! ÂŁ18!! We managed to bargain 2 beers for 1000 Baht (ÂŁ20) and thought that as it included entry it wasn't too bad. We were wrong. While certain parts were entertaining (and a touch disturbing at times), overall we came away pretty depressed. As mentioned there were entertaining moments, firing darts and popping balloons, endless lengths of streamers and razor blades being removed from the performers 'ladybits' for example. But the fun moments were overshadowed by the dancers who mostly looked like they wanted to die, drinks cons and generally a dingy atmosphere and shoddily put together show. On the plus side we did see a women remove, reinstate and remove again a live bird from her vagina. Not something you see everyday. I can imagine the RSPB would lose their shit over here! We however saw it at it's very least an experience not too forget and at least we can say 'Yes' to the question that inevitably get asks first when you say you have been to Thailand!
Koh Phi Phi
Our day started at 5:30am in Surat Thani where we arrived at a tour operators office and awaited our minibus. After being taken to another tour operator and a restaurant we finally got on a minibus 1.5 hours later. We then picked up 12 more people (which was 2 more than the minibus could seat. We stopped at a petrol station, stopped for the driver to buy car flowers?! And stopped for a toilet/cigarette break. Our ferry to Phi Phi left the port at 10:30am, at 10:15am we stopped at a cafe and were informed to get out as another minibus would take us to the ferry port! âShamblesâ would be the understatement of the century. Luckily the ferry left 10 minutes late and we boarded 5 minutes before that!
Putting aside our frustration at the mornings events we set sail and felt positive about the day ahead. We arrived at the ferry pier to clear skies and bright sunshine. We checked into a guesthouse and headed for the beach.
The beach was beautiful, clear warm water, sand and sun. We had heard that it had rained for about a week before we arrived so we were particularly lucky we think!
That evening we headed to the beach bars for some drinks. Thereâs around 4 of these beach bars all competing for customers. They do this by plying people with drink offers, putting on fire shows and generally trying to blow the shit out of their sound systems! We settled on one called Stoned where we had buy one get one free âbucketsâ, literally a bucket of a spirit and mixer. We were also offered perhaps unsurprisingly given the name of the bar, a joint! We politely declined and enjoyed our buckets and the fire shows.
We woke up the next morning slightly fuzzy but nothing a 30min walk up a mountain couldnât cure! This walk finished at a place called âThe Viewpointâ and resulted in some incredible views over the whole island. In the afternoon went on a boat trip that toured the surrounding islands including Maya Bay, the one made famous as the beach from the film, The Beach (obviously). We also did some snorkeling and kayaking around the bays.
That evening Helen and I got tattoos! We had previously done some research on traditional bamboo tattoos and found a place called Tapear Tattoo that specialised in bamboo, they have been around sine 1994 and had a great reputation. Helenâs is a lotus flower which is the national flower of Vietnam and also is a Buddhist symbol for fortune. Mine is two shapes and has little to no meaning! Although I love the shapes and we are both very happy with our tattoos!
The following day was spent on the beach and in the bars in the evening for drinks and fire shows! Phi Phi is a very beautiful island with a great night life. Itâs fun and always feels safe due to the small size of the island. There are no roads here either. Itâs definitely been my favourite place so far and Helen agrees. Itâs all too easy to get lost in the charms of the island, I can see why people end up staying here for weeks and if we didnât have a ferry already booked for Phuket tomorrow, I have no doubt we would be among the islandâs victims!
Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur Water fountain light display after sunset.
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
We visited KL primarily for a visa run as we will be spending over 30 days in Thailand, and on re-entry into the country the visa is renewed. We spent two days and 3 nights in KL. Our first evening was spent wondering around Chinatown, which was the area our guesthouse was in. Chinatown seemed to be primarily comprised of 2 streets intersecting through the middle (much like Chichester for all you local readers). Hundreds of stalls line either side of the streets selling everything from fresh (still smoking) smoked chestnuts, fake goods (watches, clothes, sunglasses etc), local crafts and food and drink. It was a busy, bustling place full of character with a hint of the old style charm that would have pre-dated the current 'modern/fake' goods period. After a good nights sleep we spent our first day sightseeing. We wondered about the City Museum, Freedom Park, and visited the old mosques, unfortunately the most famous mosque, Masjid Jamek was at the time closed to non Muslims. We also went to a large park called Lake Gardens where we visited a butterfly park. Wondering around KL is incredibly easy thanks the highly efficient and simple-to-use transit system they have which is comprised of a monorail and underground/overground system. In much the same vain as the London system it's comprised of around 8 lines/routes. We visited other areas of KL such as Bukit Bintang, which is the main shopping and business district. Here we found, among others, a H&M, Zara, McDonalds etc! After several hours of wondering about we visited the famous 'Petronas Towers'. The Petronas towers is comprised of two huge towers connected by a 'Skybridge', the towers are the tallest in SE Asia and rank in the worlds top 10 tallest buildings. There's a huge shipping centre at the bottom and a park at the back. We walked around the towers gazing up until our necks were stiff! It made you dizzy looking up at them! We then walked around the shopping centre which as you may imagine, was full of shops that were way above our budget! As we (and several hundred others) watched the sun set over the towers from the park behind, we were treated to a water fountain light show which happens every night after sunset. The park has a large lake full of fountains water jets and lights which shoot water synchronised to music playing from speakers throughout the park. I'll put a video up of they in another post. Our second day was spent primarily in two places, Batu Caves and The National Zoo. Batu cave is, as you would expect, a large cave which houses Hindu Temples. It's a hot and sweaty 200 step climb to the top and to be honest not much of a pay off! The views looking down over the city however were quite nice! The zoo also was a bit of a disappointment, but you can see that that the Zoological Society are currently spending a lot of money on improvements; there were building works everywhere! They are building a new elephant enclosure and a new panda enclosure as they will shortly be taking delivery of a giant panda. To be honest we didn't mid so much, there were still plenty of animals to see, plus an aquarium and a animal show. I cam imagine in a year or two it will be a top quality zoo. We are now back in Thailand and preparing to head to Koh Phi Phi tomorrow morning bright and early! Here's a photo of a elephant from KL Zoo stretching...
Tiger Kingdom, Chiang Mai
Helen preparing for a damp ride on the Motobike!