A London Holiday!

An American English teacher's experiences teaching in London

[alondonholiday]

OSL - BGO

Train to Bergen Day Three: July 6, 2017

A relaxed breakfast and coffee at the local Espresso House down the road set us up for another travel day, this time taking the NSB train from the Oslo Central Station to Bergen, Norway. We packed up our belongings, left extra time to arrive at the station, and boarded our train west. We paid a bit extra to sit in the “Komfort” class that provided free coffee and tea on board, our own double seats with tray table, and beautiful views of the countryside. It is nearly a seven hour journey, just about the same amount of time as our flight from the US, but having such beautiful views and the ability to get up and walk around with a bit more room made the time go by so much fast.

Upon arriving in Bergen at nearly 8PM, we pulled our luggage up the steep hills of the city to our next AirBnB. It's incredibly spacious, located on the third floor of an older building in a neighborhood that sits above the city center by about a 10 minute walk. We were met by our hosts, Hanna and Henrick, at the door, and after receiving a quick tour, we walked downtown to scout out a dinner spot. The number one restaurant recommended by both our hosts and other bloggers was Pingvinen, a decidedly Norwegian spot. Upon arrival, we noted that it was particularly crowded inside the small restaurant, and the focused menu included dishes such as zebra meat, reindeer, and whale; these dishes were just a step too far for our American tastes, and we wandered further to try to scout out a more suitable spot. Unfortunately, Bergen’s food is extraordinarily priced. While we were happy with our dinner at Dickens, a cross between a pub and cafe, the total was noticeably more than what we would typically pay back home, even for a nice meal. Since it stays very light outside until 11PM, we did a bit of exploring after our 9PM dinner, and chose to purchase breakfast supplies from the local Kiwi Grocery Store before heading home. It was late — especially for me — but we were not tired, and settled in quickly to this new city. 

Bergen, Norway Day Four: July 7, 2017

My first impressions of Bergen strongly remind me of Bristol, England: seaside university town, working class, the sound of sea gulls in the air, and overcast weather. Perhaps it is the grey clouds that seem to have permanently settled over the city, but at this point in our trip, Oslo is my preferred spot. Bergen is much smaller, has considerably more tourists, and the architecture is noticeably older than that in the capital. 

We knew going into this week that the weather would be cool, rainy, and damp. This morning, I discovered that I forgot my raincoat, perhaps the most important piece of clothing to bring when traveling to Bergen. Fortunately, the true rain held off for the day, and it was not until we ventured up Ulriken643, one of Bergen’s seven mountains, that we felt the weather’s full effects. After a quick stop at the helpful Bergen Tourist Information Center, we purchased tickets for the bus and cable car ride up Mount Ulricken. Unfortunately, due to the weather, we were unable to view the city at the peak of the mountain because of the heavy fog, wind, and rain; however, there is a nice cafe at the summit that serves hot tea and coffee to warm us up after venturing out into the elements. Since rain is so frequent in Bergen, it is essentially a 50:50 shot as to whether the cable car ride will yield any good city views. We tried to make the most of our time, venturing down a hiking path for a short time before turning back, encountering a few sheep on our way back inside. 

Once we reached the city again, we spent the rest of the afternoon popping into different shops down by the Bryggen waterfront, which we had visited earlier in the morning. Bryggen is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, because it was once a spot of Hanseatic trade dating back to the Middle Ages. Our favorite store that we visited was called Moods of Norway, which sold clothes that fit both our styles. Unfortunately, we both discovered that due to the fact that we each lack the height that the typical Norwegian customer has, the clothing was far too long or large on both of us. It’s too bad — they were having a great sale!

After warming up in the cafe Godt Brød with an espresso and a sweet bread pastry covered in coconut with a custard center, we headed back to our apartment to rest up a bit before dinner. I keep wondering to myself if my opinion of Bergen would be significantly different if the weather were warm and clear. It would have positively affected the Ulriken cable car ride for certain, but unfortunately, weather is something that we can’t plan for. Forecast for tomorrow: cloudy with a high of 56°.

[alondonholiday]

BOS - OSL

Oslo, Norway Day One: July 3-4, 2017

After arriving with time to spare at Logan Airport, indulging in a bit of Legal Seafoods in Terminal E, and waiting out a few minor boarding delays, we were off on Norwegian Air, taking a direct flight to Oslo. I have to report that since that one time I was upgraded flying home from London on Virgin Airlines, I live in hope it will happen again; after being spoiled with an armchair-esque seat, Economy Class seems like torture. The flight to Oslo was just over six hours, and we forced ourselves to sleep as much as we could, Sam refusing his meal service and I choosing to ignore the likes of a “vegetarian dinner” consisting of one stewed tomato, white rice, and steamed vegetables. Watching Fantastic Beats and Where to Find Them made the experience much more enjoyable. We touched down on schedule, collected our bags, and followed the directions to our AirBnB. After a brief mishap — getting on a train headed in the wrong direction — we met our host, Lise, at her condo in Frogner, a well to do section of Oslo whose streets were lined with homes, restaurants, and local shops. Oslo is beautifully clean and organized, and the people are noticeably well dressed. It seems that the country has made blue and white clothing their unofficial summer uniform. With our goal of staying up throughout the day, we set off on a walk to take in the lay of the neighborhood. Since Oslo is so walkable, we covered quite a distance in the few hours we had before meeting with Lise again to get some tips and recommendations. After stopping at The Juicery for an acai bowl and smoothie — honestly, a lifesaver— we walked the main pedestrian street in the center of the city, Karl Johans, which is lined with shops, and we passed the Uio Sentrum, the Parliament, Oslo Cathedral, ending our trip at the Oslo Central Station, which has a temporary installation of a ferris wheel and carousel for the summer. Upon our return, we walked up toward the majestic Royal Palace, which is situated in the middle of gardens that have been groomed for the Norwegian Queen’s 80th birthday.

After our meeting with Lise, we took her recommendation to eat dinner at a local Italian restaurant called Ville Paradiso. The guidebooks are correct: food is expensive in Oslo. In fact, it has been our primary expense thus far. Breakfasts and lunches we have mostly subsidized ourselves with granola bars from home, but during dinner we noticed the price range. Nonetheless, Villa Paradiso was delicious, and upon our return to our AirBnB, we collapsed, fairly exhausted, by 9PM, having successfully stayed up 32 hours. 

Oslo, Norway Day Two: July 5, 2017

Sam slept for 12 hours, and while I didn’t get quite as much sleep, we were both ready to start the day. Setting off from our apartment in Frogner, took a scenic route down to the harbor to see the Oslo Opera House, which according to Lise, was built to compete with that in Sydney, Australia. The architecture is impressive as tourists climb the white stone slanted structure up to the roof, which overlooks a glass sculpture of an iceberg in the harbor. 

Having purchased the 24 Hour Oslo Pass from the Oslo Central Station, we made our way to Pier 3 behind the Oslo City Hall to take a ferry to Bygdøy. The ferry ride was wonderful, and we could not have had more perfect touring weather. At our first stop, the Viking Ship Museum, we learned more about the Viking people, their travels to countries within Scandinavia and abroad to Iceland, Ireland, and Britain, and the construction of their oak wood ships. We stopped into the cafe for a hot dog and an ice cream, of course, and carried on to the Holocaust Center. The walk around Bygdøy reminded us of Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket: beautiful, modern architecture, tennis courts, and gated driveways. Unfortunately, the exhibits at the Holocaust Center were written entirely in Norwegian, and while I was hoping to learn more about how the Holocaust impacted Norway specifically, the information provided on a translated tablet was limited. Retracing our steps, we stopped into the Norwegian Folk Museum, which was perhaps the highlight of the day. Not only was the museum itself very interesting, specially its exhibits on the Sami people, a nomadic subculture closely associated with reindeer hunting that lives not only in Norway, but across Scandinavia, but also the incredible gardens. Reminiscent of Plymouth Plantation, the homes included throughout the grounds are modeled after traditional Norwegian structures, allowing visitors to peek inside. They also had free WiFi throughout the museum and grounds — we were both thrilled. Returning to the ferry to take the second to last boat of the day, we caught a tram home, prepared for dinner, and had an “inexpensive” Thai dinner at a local take-away spot a few blocks away. Sitting outside eating dinner at 9PM while it was still fully light out was amazing. Even later that night at 11PM, the light was still present  through our shades. We walked 10.6 mi during all of our sight seeing; it was fantastic.

[alondonholiday]

My Top Tips for Iceland Travel

Granted, this list will be heavily slanted toward winter travel, but many of the same concepts will still apply to vacations on this beautiful island year round. 

Rent a Car - If you are planning on staying in Iceland longer than three days, I highly recommend that you rent a car. While many native Icelanders travel the country in small four door cars, if you are planning any sort of excursion around the country, I would recommend renting an SUV with four wheel drive. Especially in the winter, the weather is highly unpredictable, so I know I felt much safer in a larger SUV when we got caught in not one but two blizzards!

Walk Reykjavik - The capital city is very walkable and easy to explore. If your vacation is a short trip between three and four days, this is the perfect amount of time to cover all of Reykjavik's corners. The city is by no means expansive, but there are plenty of shops, museums, and sites to keep yourself very busy while not feeling overwhelmed.

Research Your Restaurants - I for one am very picky about my meals, and I become noticeably grumpy if I'm not able to eat well. Especially for dinner, we researched each restaurant that we chose to eat at, and were never disappointed. Though it is an island, Reykjavik is still an international city, and many of the restaurants have fusion menus between Icelandic, French, Dutch, and even Indian cuisines. I would highly recommend Islenski Barrinn  and Snaps as two go to spots. 

Pack Layers - And by layers, this even includes a bathing suit no matter what season you are traveling in. Be prepared for rain, snow, sun, and wind, so I would highly recommend focusing on waterproof outer layers, warm sweaters, and comfortable socks and walking shoes. The more comfortable you feel as you travel around, the more adventures you will be able to have!

Be Flexible - Iceland travel is an adventure, so do not be afraid to safely explore beyond the city and take in the unique landscapes. The Icelandic people are extraordinarily friendly and kind, so do not be afraid to ask for directions or recommendations along the way. 

[alondonholiday]

KEF to BOS - Thursday February 19 and Friday, February 20, 2015

On Thursday morning, we woke up early with the intention of eating breakfast and hitting the road to return home to Reykjavik. Hotel Bú∂ir's breakfast was delicious with a selection of granola or cereal, Skyr yogurt, toasts, meats, cheeses, and fruit to choose from. Just that list alone was enough to get us out of bed. 

After packing our belongings and double checking the room, we began to pack up our car for the ride back to the city. Sam had left his phone in the car the previous night, but when he went out to check it, there was not a phone to be found. After a frantic re-search of the room, I could tell that he had already chalked it up to a casualty of the trip. In a last ditch attempt, we checked under the seats in the car one more time and low and behold, there was the lone iPhone! Very relieved, we started the engine and began to travel back down the Snæfellnes Peninsula. Along the way, we stopped to take pictures, but we were careful to pull significantly off the highway to avoid causing any confusion. Just as in our ride up to Bú∂ir, we were again hit with a blizzard on our way home, yet somehow the second time around is much less terrifying. These conditions were slightly less frightening with the visibility just a bit more manageable. On went the hazards, and we rolled along until the worst of it was over. 

Back in Reykjavik, we checked into our charming new AirBnB, a 1930's art deco style hotel. If Icelandic design has any type of signature look, it would include excellent lighting and furry accent pieces. This hotel had both, sporting oversized lightbulbs and furry draped blankets on the couch in our room. Best of all, there was a geothermal sauna and hot tub on the roof, which we took full advantage of that evening. 

After checking in and storing our bags away, we went for a walk downtown to finish up our shopping. My best advice to travelers is that three days spent in downtown Reykavik would be more than enough time to cover the major sights and sounds of the city without feeling rushed. More days are needed for adventures outside the capital using a car, but for those simply stopping over in Iceland, a lot can be accomplished in a small amount of time. One store we stopped into was a type of health food store with a mix of makeup and skincare, healthy cooking, and yummy snacks. The clerk was so nice to us, even offering to turn some of our many krona coins into bills. This type of small gesture seems to be typical of the Icelandic people, who were universally kind to us throughout the trip. Hungry, and hoping for a warm final meal, we returned to our hotel to drop off our new purchases, picked up our car, and drove five minutes back to the center to find a bite to eat. 

While we had successfully used TripAdvisor for restaurant recommendations throughout the trip, I somehow got the address wrong for this final night out, and we could not find our intended restaurant. Instead, since we knew the city well at this point, we figured we could find a restaurant on our own by simply walking around. However, this is easier said than done, especially because we did not want to end up in a sub-par tourist trap out of desperation. Just about when our stomachs had begun to audibly grumble, we turned a corner to find Snaps, a Bistro Bar with large portions and a warm atmosphere. A mix of French, Danish, and Icelandic cuisine, we were ushered to the downstairs bar while we waited for our table to be prepared. Sam noticed that the tables seemed to be filled with locals happily laughing away surrounded by candle light. Starving, we tucked into a large caesar salad to split and then eat ordered large sandwiches - a croque-monsieur for myself and a chicken club for Sam. Absolutely stuffed to the gills, we drove back to our hotel, had a soak in the sauna and hot tub, and then, exhausted, went to bed fully satisfied with our last night of the trip.

The next morning, we packed up our remaining items, stuffing things in suitcase corners to make everything fit, and drove back to the airport to drop off our car. We left early, allowing plenty of time for check in and security just in case. Once we found our gate, we people watched those around us, some heading to Boston, others to New York, and a few back to Canada. With a handful of remaining krona in our wallets, we decided to buy a chocolates for the plane. Though only gone for a few minutes, when we returned to our gate, we noticed the screen had changed to "Last Call!" for our flight. Panicked, we hopped back in line, nervously laughing that we almost missed our flight though we had arrived hours early. 

Two movies - The Maze Runner and Marley and Me - later and we were back on the ground in Boston. We both said we were happy to be home, but not without the satisfaction of the most fantastic adventure!

[alondonholiday]

Hotel Búdir - Tuesday, February 17 to Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Arriving at Hotel Budir in the evening was a bit nerve wracking. Though we checked in at 6:30PM, only a few minutes after the suggested check in time, I spent the majority of the ride terrified that we would encounter another rogue blizzard. While it did snow during the drive, the visibility was clear, and we made great time. 

Búdir's driveway is actually a somewhat winding road that is about a few kilometers long. As we approached the hotel itself, the wind began to pick up, and we fought the strong wind off the ocean to make our way inside. The hotel is situated on the Snæfellnes Peninsula right next to the Atlantic Ocean. Our two nights at this hotel were a very generous Christmas gift from Sam's mum, as this rural retreat was really a priceless opportunity for exploring the Iceland countryside outside of the city. Home to a maximum of 28 rooms, the hotel is tastefully decorated with sitting rooms and fireplaces on each floor. Downstairs is a restaurant that serves a complimentary breakfast and a gourmet dinner to guests, and surrounding the hotel are walls of alternating pictures from Iceland's history or windows looking out over the peninsula and ocean. 

After settling into our room, we made 8:30PM dinner reservations downstairs. Starting with a delicious lamb and beet h'orderves, we each ordered the beef tendorloin served with mashed potatoes and mushrooms, and we finished with a white chocolate mousse, brownie, and strawberry sorbet - incredible. 

The next morning we had prepared to go explore the grounds; however, Mother Nature seemed to have followed us from Boston, but instead of snow she brought rain. Pelting the windows, we could hear the rain and wind whistling past the hotels as we ate our breakfast consisting of cereal or granola, various Icelandic toast options, meats and cheeses, and fruit. Content to just soak in the beauty of the hotel, we spent much of the morning catching up on the internet and editing photos, though we did spend about 20 minutes outside to take a few photos, and ended up returning inside as two sopping wet puddles. 

In the early afternoon, Sam convinced me to venture out once more as the rain began to slow, so we jumped in the car and began to drive. The roads here are mainly flat and very drivable, even in extreme conditions. Sam noticed that the pavement is of a rockier consistency than at home, but this allows the tires to have a better grip on the road.  We drove to the next village, Arnarstapi, which is also situated right on the coast. We were able to find a safe lookout point to take in the views, and the rocky cliffs very much reminded me of Ireland. 

Back in the car, Sam once again convinced me to drive five more minutes down the road just to see what was on the other side of the nearest hill. It was here that we found our next adventure. Situated in the middle of a field without a soul for miles was an abandoned stone house lacking both a roof and any interior dwelling. We drove out on an unpaved pathway toward it to investigate further, and found graffiti on the inside walls and amazing photography opportunities. The rain let up just long enough to snap a few pictures before we jumped back in the car to make it home before sundown. 

Back at the hotel, we ate an early dinner - mushroom soup and beef tenderloin again for me - and turned in early to prepare for our final full day in Iceland. While Búdir is certainly not the average 20-somethings destination spot, the landscape and peaceful surroundings were a personal dream come true. This rural escape would be the perfect resting point for any artist or writer seeking inspiration and a warm meal. If anything, I highly recommend the dessert at dinner. I've never loved sorbet more than I did on Wednesday night. 

[alondonholiday]

Hallgrimskirkja and Reykjavik  - Tuesday, February 17, 2015

If you know me well, you know that I love to shop. Now by shop, I don't necessarily mean spend money, but rather I love to get ideas, take note of trends, and just generally poke around. One thing that I've noticed about myself when I travel is that I usually do not return home with a suitcase full of knickknacks. I usually like buying one or two nice things, typically clothing, that will remind me of my trip when I wear then. In fact, I'm currently wearing a ring that I haven't taken off for over two years now from London. This is why I was beginning to get a bit antsy about shopping in downtown Reykjavik. As a city, Reykjavik is quite small compared to London or Boston. It's extremely walkable, relatively flat, and has major landmarks such as the Hallgrimskirkja Church to help guide your sense of direction. After spending part of Saturday driving around the city, Sam and I both felt like we had the general lay of the land. 

When we woke up on Tuesday morning, we planned to visit Hallgrimskirkja Church, essentially located in the front yard of our apartment, and then walk down to the main street shops. I can't say enough how centrally located our apartment was while still being very quiet at night. There was plenty of free parking, but it still allowed us to easily walk to dinner at night. I had read that Hallgrimskirkja offers beautiful views of the city, and we were not disappointed. After purchasing a $6.00 elevator ticket to the top floor, we waited in line as the elevator itself only holds a maximum of six people. 

Up we went to the top, and if you stand on the provided boxes, the church provides a 360 degree view of the city and all of its colorful roofs. Though we initially hesitated as to whether we wanted to wait in line for the elevator, the line moved fairly quickly, the views were beautiful, and we were glad that we stayed after all. 

From the church we walked down onto the main street, passing by kaffi cafes, small shops, and restaurants. Something that I really appreciate about Iceland as a whole is that while their country thrives on tourism, they do not buy into the clichés of their culture in terms of silly, repetitive gift shops. Instead, my impression is that much of the city is filled with locally owned, independent shops whether they be cafés, clothing, or home goods. 

We took a few hours to browse through many Scandinavian style shops. The fashion trend in Iceland is decidedly monocrome with many women exclusively wearing black. Now, as someone who also wears only neutrals - usually black - this is just my style. While the boxy fit of coats and jackets is not my best look, I love the simplistic but sophisticated pieces this part of the world is sporting. I purchased a spring kimono-style jacket from a shop on Laugavegur, the main shopping road in the city. After having a nice chat with the owner of the store, we popped just down the road into a home goods shop, and purchased a number of gifts to take home. Nothing is displayed in mass quantity, and I could have spent hours in this store looking at the many different products from milk bottles to candles to art prints. 

Knowing we had a two hour drive ahead of us to Búdir, we stopped in the Sandholt Bakery on the street for a bite to eat before the ride. I also may have purchased a few cookies from a cafe called C is for Cookie to tide us over before dinner. Armed with snacks, we walked back to our car, finagled some directions, and began the next leg of our trip. The hotel I am currently staying at is on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and is so remote that Google Maps and our GPS have a difficult time accurately picking it up. Based on the driving conditions of the previous night, I spent the next two hours in the car worriedly comparing my phone map and directions to that of our GPS. Yet, it is safe to say that barring a bit of snow, we made the drive without a hitch, and quickly settled into our beautiful room. More on Hotel Búdir next! 

[alondonholiday]

Gullfoss & Geysir - Monday, February 16, 2015

Bundled up and ready for an adventure, we jumped into our Suzuki SUV and drove east to tackle Iceland's famous Golden Circle. This drive, about three hours in total from Reykjavik is a circle that loops through a number of famous natural landmarks. We had been advised to take the southern route first as it is more scenic, so we planned on first visiting Hvervagar∂i, known as the hot spring capital of the world, the Gullfoss Waterfalls, Geysir, and Pingvallir National Park. Off we went, and since it snowed overnight, the landscape was markedly different from our Blue Lagoon drive. With little plant life on the island, the light slow blows through the divets on the land and over the road onto the other side. 

First driving about 40 minutes to Hvervagar∂i, we unfortunately did not find hot springs, but we did drive through the town and were able to pull over at certain points to take in the scenery, because there were very few cars in the area. From there, we continued onward to Gullfoss, the furthest destination on our map. 

Gullfoss was a sight to behold. Though I have never been to Niagara Falls, the overlook points made the multi-tier power of these waterfalls seem so impressive. Though my fingers and toes were numb with the cold wind, the various shades of blue and green in the frozen water were still beautiful. We walked up to three lookout points taking pictures along the way. I have been very thankful that I brought my L.L. Bean Boots along on this trip, as they have kept my feet dry despite the slushy bits of walking and hiking that we have done. 

Ten minutes from Gullfoss is Geysir, home to at least four marked natural geysirs. Though we walked by them all, we were fortunate enough to see Strokkur - The Churn- spout four times! We waited with the other tourists and photographers, trying to time our shutters just right, and I was finally able to capture the eruption on the fourth time. As you watch, you can see the surface water begin to balloon a bit as the pressure builds. This is the warning to get your camera in focus, as you only have a few seconds before a shoot of water will fly skyward. Satisfied, we walked back to the car to begin the third leg of journey. 

By this point in the drive, it was approaching four o'clock. As the sun sets completely around 5:30PM this time of year, we knew daylight was waning, and we would have limited time in the National Park. We did make it while the sun was still somewhat above the horizon, but we had about a forty minute drive ahead of us, and it had started to snow. Sam made a u-turn, allowing a Reykjavik Excursions bus and an SUV to pass by, before we continued back to the main road. This decision became our most crucial, potentially life saving bit of luck. 

What started as flurries suddenly turned to blizzard white out conditions. When we first rented our car, we were warned to check the driving conditions before embarking on any long journeys, especially outside of the city. As Boston natives, we're used to rapidly changing conditions. We often joke that we can see four seasons in a day. Well, let's just say that Iceland certainly has us beat. While both of us are used to driving in snow, the Icelandic wind and lack of vegetation on the land is enough to drive any car off the road. Without road lights and unable to see more than a foot in front of us, we only had the tail lights of the SUV and Excursion van in front of us to guide the way. While it was somewhat comforting that the van, we assumed, is used to driving in this weather, I'll admit that I was still solidly terrified. As the minutes ticked by, stopping and starting, crawling along on the invisible road, we quickly realized the importance of not losing sight of the car caravan, not wanting to leave another driver behind. The driver in front of us even got out of the car at one point to brush the inches of snow off his back lights to help guide us. 

When we finally got within ten minutes of the city, I slightly relaxed my grip on the door handle. The next day, a local shop keeper informed us that the weather during the previous night was the worst of the year. While we both agreed that it certainly makes a (near death) story, I for one could not have been happier to be back in Islenski Barinn for dinner, wine, and a wind down - phew! 

[alondonholiday]

Blue Lagoon - Sunday, February 15

For our second full day of the trip, we reserved tickets to Iceland's famous attraction, The Blue Lagoon, located near the Keflavik Airport, about 45 minutes outside of Reykjavik. The drive from our apartment to the Lagoon was fascinating. We passed volcanos, lava fields, mountains, and moss colored greenery surrounding the highway roads. We both noticed that there is very little tree coverage. Having been instructed not to stop on the highway to take pictures, no matter how tempting it may seem, we would simply roll down the window and snap them on the way by.

Our first sign of our destination was a stream to my left that was the characteristic neon blue color that has made this lagoon so famous. After speeding through a line to receive our white fluffy robe and flip flops, we departed to the separate changing areas, and this is where things get interesting. As I've noticed in the past, there are certain cultural norms in Europe that are quite foreign to Americans. In this case, the concept of public showers in the nude is daunting to me. I had been warned of this, and also advised that Icelanders take their geothermal bath preparations seriously. On the one hand, I did not want to break the rules, but on the other, the thought of showering in the nude next to a group of strange ladies was...too much. However, Blue Lagoon is prepared for the prudish tourist such as myself, and there are closed showers with doors to ease all foreign fears.

I met Sam in the lobby, and we raced outside, strategically placing our towels and robes high above the others on the deck, and eased our way into the hot tub temperature waters. The depth ranges from waist deep to shoulder deep on me, and there is plenty of space to float through the uniquely blue waters. I had read that use of the complimentary conditioner comes highly recommended, and I was careful not to get my hair wet as we swam. Along the way, Sam tried the silica mud face mask placed at the far end of the lagoon in troughs along the way, and we both ordered our complimentary drinks from the in-water bar. I ran in and out of the water twice to grab and then return my camera to my locker. Though it was risky to bring it in to the lagoon, the pictures we so worth it!

After our time in the water, we ate a light lunch a the cafe, and then spent time looking at the pools in and around the building. It was quite cold - nothing like the geothermal temperatures of the afternoon, but we were both so relaxed that we couldn't be bothered. Though it is considered a tourist destination, there really is no better way to start or end your trip to Iceland. We both would highly recommend it!

Upon returning home to the apartment, we selected Kryddlegin Hjortu as our dinner restaurant of choice, a fusion restaurant mixing Indian, Mexican, and Iceland dishes and ingredients. Perhaps considered an unusual choice, we were both warm and well fed upon leaving, fully relxed after our afternoon in the water. 

[alondonholiday]

BOS to KEF - Friday, February 13, 2015 to Saturday February 14, 2015

A London Holiday is back, but this time it does not quite extend across the pond. Instead, this holiday is making a permanent stop just short of London in Reykjavik, Iceland. For someone who is both upset with Mother Nature for the amount of snow that has recently been gifted to Boston and someone who is allergic to fish, Iceland does not seem like it should be a vacation priority; however, I was itching for an adventure, and surprisingly, this land of ice is somehow warmer than Boston's polar vortex temperatures. 

We flew Icelandair, and while we had been warned that we would be packed like sardines in a can - fish pun - I was pleasantly surprised at the experience. We had an exit row, so there was plenty of leg room to be had. Sleeping more on this four hour flight than I ever have on a red eye, we touched down around 6:30AM and were met in the airport by our car rental company. A few signatures later, and we were on our way to the capital city. There is a single road, Route One, that runs through all the major destinations on the island. As I had read, the signage on the roads is quite good, so we had no problem finding our way even in the dark. 

We, or I should say I, did make one rookie mistake. I failed to contact our AirBnB host ahead of time to make arrangements for actually getting inside the apartment. Standing helplessly outside, we, or I should say I, began to panic. I brought my UK phone with me, which thankfully does work here, and called the local number listed on a sign out front - no answer. Sam calmly suggested we just explore the neighborhood for a bit to find a cafe that would have WiFi. By a stroke of luck, we ran into a Tourist Information Center who directed us to a local coffee shop, Kaffi Rot. Armed with a yogurt and an email from our host about how to get into the apartment, I was feeling so much better. 

After unpacking and showering, we went for an excursion to the local indoor Kolaportid Market. Only open on Saturdays and Sundays, it contains a series of stalls that sell anything from second hand Icelandic sweaters to t-shirts to knickknacks. We poked around for a bit, buying a few things here and there including two handmade sweaters of our own! We overheard a conversation between a vendor and two customers who were discussing Iceland's relationship with mainland Europe. The vendor was adamant that while Iceland enjoys the professional trading relationship to want to maintain independence from Europe by not switching to the Euro, a conversation that is becoming increasingly important in light of Iceland's economy in recent years. 

Next stop was the ever-present Bonus, an inexpensive grocery chain. It's a fair combination of The Dollar Store and Market Basket. After having a wander around and receiving advice on cheese buying from a local customer, we purchased breakfast supplies and headed home. For dinner, we did a bit of research and chose the highly recommended Islenski Barinn, a fantastic local restaurant. I had the most delicious chicken burger with sweet potato fries, and Sam ordered a basket of fish and chips. For dessert, we split our first taste of Skyr, a yogurt with a mousse-like texture, with lemon and blueberries. 

Absolutely stuffed and satisfied, we thought our night was over until we spotted a large glass glass building whose outside was lit up with iridescent lights. The rain having let up to a light mist, we walked across the street to check it out. Inside, we found it to be the center of Reykjavik night light. The look is grunge, mixed with what ever you could possibly find in a rummage sale. Squid masks, corn rows, man buns, vampire teeth, and paste on face jewels - Iceland is cool, man. Iceland is very cool. 

[alondonholiday]

LND to BOS

The flight home from London is always more difficult because of that lack of a pesky tail wind. With a little help from Mother Nature, flying from Boston to London takes about five and a half hours. In the opposite direction, it takes about seven. This is especially complicated by the fact that on this particular flight, I sat right in the middle of about forty Welsh secondary schoolers on their way to my hometown for a holiday trip. 

Typically, when people ask me which students were more well behaved, I would lean toward the side of my British students; however, this was not the case yesterday. These kids, probably around Year 10, were rude, disrespectful, demanding, obnoxious, and over caffeinated. When they realized that they could call for a cabin crew member at any time, request a drink whenever they so pleased, and annoy the hell out of all those sitting around them, they really took advantage. I was almost thankful I was the one sitting next to a particularly irritating one as opposed to my seat mate, a thirty year old pharmaceuticals manufacturer, as I would have felt so bad for him. I nearly thanked a crew member when he finally let the row of hooligans in front of me have it for grinding cake into the carpet. 

Boston, be aware. You've been invaded by these foreign children who I'm sure will be reeking havoc everywhere. By the end of the flight, I was planning my speech to my own students to thank them for being so well-behaved by comparison. Oi, what a trip!

[alondonholiday]

Final Farewell: Take Three

At the moment, Heathrow Airport is bearing a strong resemblance to some sort of hospital setting. The walls are very white, there is a loud beeping that has occasionally gone off, and it is a place where families and friends tend to gather. For me, it is once again the site of my departure. 

I woke up this morning quite early to finish packing my last minute items from yesterday and get breakfast with Nicole. Thankfully, I did not have to eat out as much during this trip because Nicole's flat had access to a kitchen, and I would always eat breakfast at home, but for this morning we wanted to pick someone to get a bite to eat. While the original spot we chose, The Breakfast Club in Soho, had a line out the door, we stumbled upon a Plan B just down the road. The Cotton Cafe was a little locally owned spot serving breakfast and lunch. I ordered a Vegetarian Breakfast with came with an egg, toast vegetarian sausage, beans, tomato, mushrooms, and free tea. While I did not eat the beans, the rest of the meal was just what I needed.

We walked back home to Marylebone as there was not a cloud in the sky and it is a beautiful 50°F (11°C). Sorting out the rest of my suitcase upon my return, Nicole and I realized that we had gone a week without taking a single picture together. This was remedied outside the Baker Street Tube Stop, and off I went back to the end of the Piccadilly Line.

Let's just say that I'm already planning my next trip for this summer, perhaps. While one of my goals for this trip was to spend a bit more time outside of the city, I came to realize that it is the city itself that I enjoy the most. When I traveled to other parts of Europe, it was London that I wanted to go home to. While in the other parts of England was enjoyable, I  appreciate the expanse of London's landscape and the opportunities that it provides. This is a far cry from my perspective on cities five years ago, but it's best to learn where you feel most comfortable while you can. I'm thankful for the friends I have in the UK and the best host and flatmate a girl could ask for. Bon voyage, London. Until next time!

[alondonholiday]

My last full day in the city was quite busy, certainly unexpectedly so. I woke up early to catch the train to The British Museum, a museum I have surprisingly not been to yet. Essentially, I really only went to see the gorgeous ceiling in the museum's entry way, but I did stop off to see the Rosetta Stone. The crowd of tourists with cameras in front of it made me laugh. 

I then took a 10 minute walk to Covent Garden to have a look around, and on my way I passed both the University College of London (UCL) and the Royal Ballet. Located right in the Covent Garden area, The Royal Ballet is surrounded by pretty streets and home to The Young Dancer, a statue by Enzo Plazzota. During this time, the weather took a slight turn for the worse and the overcast clouds began producing that spitting rain that is more inconveniently annoying than truly detrimental. To avoid it, I popped into a few stores down in the Covent Garden area along with the market that is under the cover of a glass roof.

After killing some time, I met a friend at the Seven Stars Pub down on Fleet Street. With pubs such as this one, the other impostors should not even bother serving their rubbish excuses for traditional British watering holes. Located on the bar in front of me was a water and food bowl for the pub's cat named Tom Paine. Naturally, he wore a Elizabethan ruff collar. Starving, I had not eaten since early that morning, so I ordered a turkey escalope dish from the menu. It was very delicious, and came with a cabbage salad and large hunk of bread.  

From there we went onto the Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, a pub whose lighting never rises above the level of dim. It has multiple levels and winding staircases. We sat downstairs, underground in a pub nook next to a crowd of men in suits who were clearly afterwork regulars. Upon exiting, we walked by Samuel Johnson's home, who along with other literary figures, was rumored to be a regular at the Cheese. 

Meeting Nicole and her friend Mary for dinner, we went back to South Kensington for dinner at my favorite Kensington Creperie. The food is well priced, and there is certainly an option for everyone on the menu. We ordered two savory crepes to spit - spinach and cheese and ham and egg - and then each ordered our own sweet crepe. My toffee and banana crepe with vanilla ice cream was just what I needed to cap off my trip. 

A few bottles of wine from Tesco Express (classic) later, and we were ready to turn in for the night. Cheers, London

[alondonholiday]

Something that I have realized when I travel is that the act of going somewhere new for the first time makes me very anxious. Once I've traveled the route once, I'm good to go; however, it's that first trip that makes the nervous. This can apply to planes, trains, and automobiles, but I like to arrive extra early and budget in disaster solution time. I would rather wait in the place I know I'm supposed to be than to hope I make it to the place where I should be. Let's just say that this method certainly paid off on Wednesday. 

I woke up early to catch the National Rail to Bath, which is about an hour and half journey from Paddington Station. When I arrived at the station, I went to the automated ticket stall to print out my pre-purchased tickets. Yet, something did not feel right when only one ticket and a receipt dropped out of the slot. I went to a human teller to ask, and they told me to go back, check the machine again, and pray that the ticket was still waiting for me. As you can probably guess, I had no such luck, and was forced to re-puchased by return trip ticket. Upset and already anxious, it was not the best start to the day. Additionally, as Britain is mostly under water these days, my train was delayed during the journey for about 30 minutes due to issues on the tracks. 

On my way out to Bath, I spent much of my time trying to forget the conversion rate on that re-purchased ticket, and looking out my window. Once outside the city limits, the expansive, muddy fields were a prominent feature in between the row houses. I could not help but notice the dampness that seemed to pervade this area, almost as if it has been permanently absorbed into the moss covered houses of the London suburbs. It's a far cry from the picket fenced houses back home. 

Once in Bath, I had a nice wander around the small town, stopped into the famous baths, and browsed the small card and gift shops. Many of the shops were chain stores that are also found in London, but the crowds are less overwhelming and aggressive in this smaller setting. 

I then hopped a 10 minute trail to Bristol (setting of Skins!), and walked into town. Much larger, more urban, and grungier than Bath, Bristol is comparable to a city like Portland. It is quite hilly, and after browsing through a small market, I trekked up to the top of a neighborhood called Clifton to see a large suspension bridge lit up at night. It was not until I walked across it that I realized how high up I actually was, as the cars seemed impossibly far below me. 

Catching the train home, I arrived at Paddington Station to see that the ticket stalls had been thrown open - I would not have even needed that stupid return ticket! TFL will be hearing from me, mark my words. 

[alondonholiday]

This is a compilation post of the past two days - let's go. Yesterday we went to two markets in the morning and early afternoon. However, this was my first time going to any market on a Monday, and the atmosphere is certainly much calmer and more relaxed than the bustling crowds I was anticipating. We traveled out to Liverpool Street to Spitafields Market, which is typically a fashion, artistry, and small crafts market and certainly a favorite of mine in the city. We got a bit lost on our way over, stumbling across the delightfully named St. Mary Axe along the way; however, once we did reach the market, many of the stalls were empty so we browsed the shops which surround the market instead. Much to my chagrin, the Misha Barton store while I was surprised to spot the last time I visited the market has since closed - travesty. 

We made our way to London Bridge where we hopped down to Borough Market. Again, many of the stalls were closed for the day, so we focused our efforts at the main stalls at the entrance to the market. We both ordered pad thai and split an order of thai coconut pancakes, which somehow resemble oysters. Both were delicious, and we looked up the recipe for the coconut "oysters" once we got home. 

After a momentary rest, I headed out on my own to High Street Kensington to browse the shops again. High Street Kensington has smaller versions of all the main London stops - Topshop, H&M, Miss Selfridges, Uniqlo, and Zara - but the sidewalks are less crowded than streets such as Oxford or Regent. Besides, it's where I used to spend time on the weekend, so I thought I would visit the old neighborhood again. Unfortunately, I must report that this has not been the shopping extravaganza that I anticipated. While this is London Fashion Week, it's also during that changeover period between winter and spring when the sales have ended, and the fashion world is not quite sure what season it is supposed to be showcasing. I've purchased a few nice items, but I haven't been thrilled with the styles in store. My bank account breathes a sigh of relief as we speak. 

Today, Nicole and I made two sets of reservations. The first was to visit Kensington Palace, which has been on my to-do list for two years now. Over the past two trips, the Palace was under renovations, so I was unable to get a peek inside. This time around, I am pleased to say we were more than successful, and the exhibits themselves were very unique. They had a certain avant garde, almost macabre feel to them at times. Both interactive and beautifully designed, some of the rooms looked more like artistic theater sets than historic interior design. It would be a great museum to bring elementary school age children someday. Seven year old me would have loved it: twenty-two year old me certainly did too. 

With some time to kill, strategically between rain showers, we walked through Hyde Park to see the Diana Fountain Memorial, and then headed back "home" into South Kensington where we went into the cute South Kensington Bookshop to escape a sudden deluge. As it is the week of half term, we walked by the Natural History Museum, which had a queue about a half mile long. Those poor kids must have been soaked in the rain...oops!

Post-South Ken, we headed off to St. Paul's where we had reservations at Bea's of Bloomsbury, which also has two other locations. We sat upstairs in the glass building and were served small sandwiches on baguettes, scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam, and a assortment of sweets including brownies and a cupcake each. We both chose black vanilla tea to accompany our meal, and it was absolutely delicious. This was my second trip to Bea's, and it is well worth every penny. Compared to the price of other afternoon teas, it certain surpasses my expectations. 

After re-grouping for a short while, Nicole and I headed down to the West End in hopes of winning two £20 tickets to see The Book of Mormon through a lottery system. If you arrive at 5PM, you have an opportunity to fill out a card, drop it in a bin, and if you return at 5:30PM, you may hear your name called as a winner. Unfortunately, while we did not win, our back-up plan was to see Once the Musical at The Phoenix. I had wanted to see this show in Boston, and was so upset when I missed my opportunity. I am a massive fan of the original movie and soundtrack, and was so pleased when it became such a success. We had excellent seats in the Dress Circle, and the show itself was so natural. Fantastic cast, fantastic songs, and some great lighting moments too. Certainly a high point of the trip for me!

P.S. Nicole and I recounted all the horrible outfits I wore to school dances over the years last night, and I can't say I've laughed (at my own expense) so hard in a very long time. If you knew me at the age when I wore the bathing suit and jean bucket hat, I commend you!

[alondonholiday]

Fashion Faux Pas

Number of iPads Used as Cameras - 2 Number of Pigeon Encounters - 2 Number of Miles Walked - 8

Today I stopped into the Tate Modern, and coincidentally watched preparations for the Topshop fashion show as it is London's Fashion Week from the 14th-18th. Then I took a very long walk along the Thames, beginning at Victoria, passing the Houses of Parliament, down over the Southbank, walking over the Tower Bridge, and then looping back around the other side of the river to walk past all those sights again, but add in St. Paul's Cathedral and the Somerset House; however, that is not the important bit. 

The important bit is that as I walked down the sidewalk past the Somerset House which is the hub of the Fashion Week shows. Walking along, a car passed me whose passenger leaned out the road to call out in a loud shot, "You're a babe!" accompanied by a cheeky grin. 

Now, as I was chuckling, I began to work out that the car had approached me from behind. It was evening and beginning to get dark out, so there was certainly something missing from the equation. I had noted to Nicole this morning that the tights I picked out were driving me crazy: there is nothing worse that tights that just won't stay put for more than a moment. Therefore, as I reached behind me to investigate, I discovered that my dress had neatly tucked itself up into my coat on one side. Couple that with the tights that were continuously falling down, and you have London Fashion Week's newest style icon. Well done, Becca. 

As an unimportant side note, I also ate the most uninspiring mushroom soup that impressively had no flavor whatsoever. It was served with a side of "seasonal" vegetables, which was comical as they had certainly just microwaved them from the freezer, so really they should be considered a year round fair. The whole meal was so horrific that it immediately became entertaining. Zagat should check out The Shakespeare Taylor Walker Pub by Victoria. It's doing amazing things these days...

[alondonholiday]

Safe and Sound

Fanny Pack Count: 2 Number of Minor Delays: 2  Glasses of Red Wine Spilled: 1

I arrived in Heathrow Terminal E safe and sound, but not without a few minor mishaps. During the night, I accidentally slapped a stewards behind as he was walking down the aisle with the cart. In an effort to get some sleep on the plane, I ordered a glass of red wine; however, that plan was to no avail because I spilled half of it on me while I was trying to retrieve my sleep mask from its pouch - so much for beauty sleep. Luckily, I had a particularly absorbent blanket over my lap which prevented the wine from staining my clothes. I just stained the tray table and surrounding carpet instead. Well done, Becca

I flew through customs, got on the Piccadilly Line, and texted Nicole to tell her that I was on my way. Since the Tube runs above ground for a bit leaving Heathrow, I finally had service to call and check my phone balance. The automated voice kindly informed me that I had £0.01 left on my phone. It was also at that moment that I realized that I never googled the directions to Nicole's residence from the Tube stop. I knew it was quite close by, but I never checked into the specifics. Too tired to have any real anxiety about either of these issues, and with the assistance of a helpful security guard, both problems were solved without a hitch. 

After a trip to Sainsbury's, which felt just like old times, it's as if I've never left. 

[alondonholiday]

If you don't mind me asking, what classes did you take in London? And what university did you attend whilst in the UK?

I was technically associated with Roehampton University whilst I was in London; however, the set up of my program was very different from typical study abroad programs. I had one class, The History of British Education, that met every few weeks, but the majority of my responsibility was teaching in the classroom five days a week. I was observed and evaluated during the lessons I taught, and that determined my overall grade. It was very intensive and a lot of planning, but it really prepared me for teaching in real life. Thanks for the question!