After thinking about doing a Hazbin History segment over the holidays, I finally decided to jump on in. As New Year’s approaches and many around the world celebrate Christmas, I thought it would be fun to write on holiday traditions unique to the American South and some customs specific to Louisiana. Nothing says winter holidays quite like garlands of native pine and... magnolias? Stockings full of... oranges? The taste of ... oysters? I grew up in Memphis and my family has deep roots throughout the South so a lot of these customs I have personally experienced.
This post is also not super planned out or edited. It’s a lightly researched thought dump. This is also not an exhaustive list. If I left something out, it is not intentional.
Holiday Customs of the Southern United States:
Tropical fruit may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you imagine Christmas time in America. But in the South, it is a very old custom dating back to the earliest days of coastal colonial communities. In colonial times, fresh citrus was an extremely rare and expensive delicacy. In early winter, ships loaded with citrus and other delicacies from Florida and the West Indies would begin arriving in port cities along the Southern coast. Nothing showed off New World wealth and connections in the colonial South like displays of fresh fruits and garlands of dried citrus. Fresh fruit became the ultimate luxury gift. The prickly pineapple in particular has legendary status in the city of Charleston and is sometimes associated with Southern hospitality. Placing oranges in stockings or giving gifts of gourmet fruit remain popular in many parts of the South today. Growing up, I often received at least one orange in my stocking for good luck and no scent says ‘holidays’ to me quite like the mix of orange and warm cinnamon. As an adult, I receive gourmet fruits at least once during the winter holiday season. Dried citrus is also popular in holiday potpourri and can still be seen in some contemporary holiday garlands.
This delicious nut grows prolifically throughout the South. Pecans are harvested between September and December and pecan based treats are a staple of any fall or winter gathering. The exact origins of many pecan based treats remain a mystery but folklore suggests that French settlers in Louisiana first created the iconic pecan pie as well as pralines. Bowls of candied pecans are a common sight at holiday parties or winter get togethers and they have a habit of turning up in winter salads too.
A very fragrant, native plant synonymous with the South. It is also an evergreen. The use of pine for swags, wreath, and general decor has spread throughout the United States but the use of Magnolia in holiday decor remains mostly a Southern tradition. I was in Charleston and Savanna in December 2019 and saw a lot of Magnolia wreaths on houses. I don’t remember seeing it as much in my hometown of Memphis. It seems to be more common in coastal cities. The practice could also be on the decline due to the standardization of greenery sold at big box chain stores.
Oysters are both extremely popular and extremely plentiful in the south. They are a staple of coastal cuisine and are popular on special occasions further inland. Oysters are a pretty common sight at holiday parties. Almost every holiday party I remember growing up featured raw oysters on the half shell during cocktails. It also frequently appears in various holiday stews and even in holiday stuffing. Some people are ardent believers in the superiority of oyster stuffing at Thanksgiving and Christmas. I think I have to agree on this one. Oyster stuffing is delicious.
Rèveillon: A New Orleans tradition
Louisiana is unique in that it has French Catholic colonial roots, not Anglo-Protestant colonial roots. Much of early Louisiana celebrated Christmas as a predominantly religious holiday, reserving much of their more secular festivities for New Years. Over time, many New Years festivities would migrate to Christmas. One notable custom to come out of New Orleans was the practice of Rèveillon which was a late night feast to wake up the senses after the traditional Midnight Mass. Observant Catholics would attend holiday services on Christmas Eve and then indulge in decadent late night get togethers that lasted until dawn. French Creoles at the time were known for late night entertaining on special occasions. These meals could get unbelievably extravagant and naturally depended on quite a number servants, often slaves, to pull off. Servants and/or slaves would prepare the meal while the family was at church and clean up after the festivities were over. The practice gradually died because of the labor required, the incursion of ‘American” holiday culture, and a gradual shift towards a party culture focused on cocktails and nibbles instead of lavish multi-course meals. By the early 20th century only the most traditional families were still holding Rèveillon dinners and the practice went dormant for many decades in 20th century. Today, a modern updated form of Rèveillon is making a comeback in the New Orleans restaurant scene. To increase holiday dining and tourism, some New Orleans restaurants are now offering multi-course celebratory dinners in the spirit of Rèveillon. French speaking Creoles of the past would likely find at least some familiarity in the menus of restaurant Rèveillon feasts.
Bonfires on the Mississippi:
The mighty Mississippi dominates life and culture in the Delta from New Orleans to Memphis. In parts of the lower Mississippi, giant earthen levees attempt to contain one of the world’s largest rivers. Along these levees between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, a curious tradition emerged. Every year on Christmas Eve, the levees burst into flames as locals in St. Johns and St. James parish forgo electric twinkle lights for colossal burning pyres. I have not seen the Christmas bonfires myself but boy oh boy is it on my bucket list. It’s not exactly clear how this annual tradition started. Bonfires were part of ancient Celtic customs long before the arrival of Christianity and the tradition of celebratory fires was still a widely practiced custom when settlers began arriving in the New World. Perhaps settlers from Alsace brought the tradition to Louisiana. It is also possible that French missionaries started the custom of lighting bonfires. Another origin I have heard is that the fires were meant to help travelers navigate winter-time fog on their way to Christmas mass. However it started, it is now an integral part of Christmas festivities along the lower Mississippi. Previously people just gathered scrap wood. Now people build elaborate scrap wood sculptures in the shape of boats, plantation homes, pick up trucks, etc to light ablaze on Christmas Eve. The festival exploded in popularity after WW2 when subdivisions began reaching into these formerly rural areas, bringing in an influx of young families.
Well, that’s all I’m gonna write about tonight. Anything more and this will start looking like the beginnings of a hearty essay. Hope everyone is having a great holiday!
