Berlin is blooming through decay. The pleasant greens of photosynthesis have become vibrant yellow, orange and red. The leaves, in death, are playing their swan-song. The U-Bahn trains, flying by on their elevated rail along Schönhauser Allee, are the same colour as the tree tops they are level too. In some roads there are already no leaves left – in others the tapestry is stunning.
The city was beautiful when green – now, it is enchanting. This change is meaningful, mainly because we have been here long enough to witness one. April was the start of summer, and when we arrived the cold was already lifting. Now, the descent from hot to bloody freezing has, literally, happened over night, but with warm jackets and the new natural paintings that the trees have brought with autumn are making this my favourite time here so far.
It has inspired adventure, probably because the city seems new again. Having wanted to visit for months, we finally took a Sunday to walk in the Grunewald forest on the south-western edge of the city. Despite the name, the area is now golden. It is a large forrest, and we only saw a segment on our walk, but enough to feel escaped from metropolis and man. A half hour walk took us up the only hill in the area – in the whole of Berlin, which is flat as paper – to Teufelsberg.
Teufelsberg means Devils Mountain. This name is apt, as the mountain (well, hill) was raised artificially and is home to an abandoned US listening post, built by the NSA to spy on it’s East German DDR communist enemies. And probably anyone else for that matter, knowing the American’s love of ‘National Security’. For a full account of the place history see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teufelsberg.
Now, after years of being left abandoned, squatted, broken into and defaced, the site is home to a group of people who care for the place, run tours on Sundays for anyone who wants to see, hold parties and club nights (there is a wicked outdoor bar area), create art from sculpture to street paintings and there is a guy who has a workshop in the old canteen where he restores antique doors. They even keep Bees, and make their own brand of honey.
Taking the tour, the word of the day was ‘wow’. Going inside and upstairs saw entry to two massive floors of street art, breathtaking to discover. The walls included pieces from artists from all over the world, of note for me was a piece by well known Brighton artist Snub23, plus other artists whose pieces are recognisable in Berlin, Bristol, Brighton – all the B’s.
This was massive and hand painted. Looks like a photograph when viewed from a distance, but up close you can see all the tiny brush strokes.
Snub23 – Brighton to Berlin
Taking the many, many stairs we hit the roof to check out the views of both the city and the forest, plus to see the giant domes that housed the sensors to pick up radio signals. Triangular cloth patches with small disc receivers in each corner stitched together to make giant footballs – apparently the perfect shape for picking up signals. A final ascent took us inside the highest dome. A small grilled window made it possible to look out, but the real excitement was inside. The shape of the structure bounced every tiny sound right back and directly into your ears. You could literally hear the breath of a guy on the other side. The group, on this discovery, set about making as much noise as possible, banging on metal poles, making whistles and cat calls, drumming and beat-boxing. It was amazing – and I now want to record samples in there.
This taste of abandoned berlin has ignited an spirit of discovery. it has been a couple of weeks since, and I have found myself walking down more back streets and taking more random corners as part of my day to try and find new parts. This has been enhanced by two very different experiences last weekend.
Seek Nothing are a bunch of reprobates that I have the pleasure of playing bass for. My first show with them took place on Friday 30th October at ZGK in Friedrichshain. You wouldn’t find this place if it was not there, its walls covered in graff with no signage. The bar was dark and smokey, the venue a converted basement with an intense vibe and wicked PA system, complete with excellent sound man who knew how to work it. We were opening support for the touring combo of Oak from Sweden, and Hollow Earth, a band from the states I have falling for after checking them out when we got this booking. Massive shout to Arthur Le Perroquet for putting on this night. The night is best summed up by re-posting the comment I put on my Facebook the following day:
Last night was the best Berlin night. Venue was amazing – dirty graffed up squat like place with a wicked sound and staff, bands looked after so well, had proper vegan dinner laid on, played packed first show with my new bros Mike, CJ, Gabe and Dahle who all bossed it, got to support and see Hollow Earth who have become one of my all time favourite bands over the last couple months, hung out with good friends from both Berlin and Brighton, had a 10 minute intense packed club experience at K17 where you couldn’t tell if Halloween or everyday goth, and ended up drinking in a park chatting in basic German to the nicest vagrant ever who believed in Aliens existing on Earth as humans. Does not get better.
‘Nuff said. Photo below by Zoe Noble Photography.
The following night, we went to an event that was a different world. Some friends made through work have released an award winning film ‘Sun Village’ – a documentary film about a space in Beijing that cares for children whose parents are imprisoned. Getting there was another proper Berlin moment:
“Dunno, this is the right address…”
“what about in this old college-like building that looks abandoned?”
“You mean the one with the coffee shop and a club in the basement, with an art and photography studio on the top floor up all these stairs via corridors that look like a Hackney council high rise but once you get inside, panting from the exertion of the climb because we smoke too much, the space is lovely and cool and has tons of lovely and cool people in it doing something lovely and cool?”
The film was brilliant, moving, artistic and though-provoking. Check it out here. I have not known film-makers Zoe and Mike for long, but it was clear they worked really hard on this, and are very good at their art.
The week that has followed has been relaxed. A weeks hiatus between contracts has meant time to chill. I have done not a lot for days now. But I am starting to get the itch, and want to go see more of Berlin again this weekend. With my man Gez Walton in town, that may descend into anarchy, but I don’t think anyone will mind. Here is to new discoveries and new adventures in the city that appears to have been made for them.
Autumn Leaves Berlin is blooming through decay. The pleasant greens of photosynthesis have become vibrant yellow, orange and red.