Gypsy Couple

The gypsy wanders because it is their way of life. It is ours too in a way, probably the reason why we call ourselves the Gypsy Couple. You can read more of our work at www.gypsycouple.com. Connect with us on Twitter: @_gypsycouple & Facebook: www.facebook.com/gypsycouple

[gypsycouple]

We still remember it as it was yesterday. We had departed for our honeymoon the previous night and after 2 flight changes and a longish overnight flight connection we finally reached our destination. The sight that greeted us and the utter glee we saw reflected on our respective faces was our Platinum Moment of love.

To understand where we are coming from, one needs to understand how we met. Technically the role of fate was minimal and the success can be solely attributed to our parents who set us up for a “date”. In an arranged marriage setting, the process can be divided into 3 very distinct stages,

The family date

The date

The wedding

On our first family date, we were both kind of nervous not knowing what to expect out of a date surrounded by the elders of your family winking and prepping you up for what looks like a done deal to them. However, we managed to get a conversation going and apparently made good enough impressions on each other to move on to stage 2. The date is exactly like a normal date but with an agenda.

Timelines are short and its essential one figures out as early as possible if the person at the other end of the table is a likely contender for Big Boss season eternity. If not, the cycle continues. The coffee shop became a first milestone for our married lives, where the two of us without a common background to begin with, ended up chatting away like old friends till an unlikely ring notified us of the hours gone past. A small but important moment of revelation which told us that “I” was passé and “We” was in vogue. We knew then and there, that we were meant to be forever together. We were soon married and off to our honeymoon, the place where we would truly discover the moment which defined our relationship.

The view of the approaching airport, one so tiny it looked like the plane might overshoot its length before stopping, was gorgeous. The weather was sunny with a hint of grey peeping from behind the glare. On our way to our hotel however, it started to drizzle and fearing the worst we hurried into our hotel for the check-in. Once we had deposited the bags in our rooms we headed out to explore the private beaches of the hotel. The sight which greeted us was out of this world. The sky and the beach looked freshly washed if such a thing is possible and out to greet us was a double rainbow. Rainbows are rare enough commodity where we come from, a double rainbow is more of a myth. The look of utter glee reflected on each other’s faces at the sight of the rainbow made that moment truly Platinum! That single moment removed any shred of awkwardness which remained between us in this newly evolved relationship, sent a spark of understanding between us. We understood how we together were creatures of curiosity and loved our bit of finding something momentous. We both revelled in the act of explorations and while independent, there was a unique joy in sharing it with each other. An unspoken promise was made that moment one of discovering life through travel and that is how my friends, Gypsycouple as you know it came to be.

The moment you find your soulmate like we did, you’ll know that they will be true to you for the rest of your life. Platinum Love Bands are a great way to seal this precious moment – a symbol of forever together & the bond of pure love the moment stands for. Do you have a similar Platinum Moment of celebration? Share them with us as comments, we would love to hear about them.

This post was made possible by Platinum Guild International & ORRA Jewellers.

A Platinum Journey of Love | Gypsycouple's Story We still remember it as it was yesterday. We had departed for our honeymoon the previous night and after 2 flight changes and a longish overnight flight connection we finally reached our destination.

[gypsycouple]

Things to do in Jordan | 5 Secret tips to fuel your Wanderlust

Jordan is frequently overshadowed by its neighbours and a bit ignored, partly due to the instability in the region. In fact it is a Treasure-chest waiting to be opened by tourists who do manage to get here. Perfectly safe and amazingly beautiful are common phrases used by travellers we know who’ve been there and it seems, well deservedly so. However, like all under-explored destinations, there is…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

Where to stay in Bali | A comprehensive guide

Bali, the Island of the Gods has become a tourist magnet in the last couple of years meaning that there are numerous guides on how to party hard, top Bali hotels & what to see and eat. However all that means is that the popular become even more popular while the undiscovered remain a cherished secret. One of Indonesia’s 17,500 islands, it still remains the most sought after destination in the…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

10 of the uniquest hotels in the world

10 of the uniquest hotels in the world

As published in aluxurytravelblog on 01.07.2014 Hotels can no longer be defined only by the amenities they provide, it has become essential to have a theme,or a place with character which defines it. Business and casual travelers alike would prefer staying at a place with history, a back story or even something as simple as furniture which defines the place. With that in mind, here are the 10 of…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

8 ridiculously expensive and mouth-watering desserts

8 ridiculously expensive and mouth-watering desserts

As published in aluxurytravelblog on 05.07.2014 Some food is more expensive than others, it depends on where you are having it, who’s making it and what rare ingredient has been added to it. One can understand the main course being expensive with that logic, but explaining how you splurged a few thousand dollars on desserts alone can take some explaining. Let’s take a look at some drool worthy…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

We say we lost our heart to Budapest only because we went there earlier. If not, chances are that it would be stolen by this city of spires, mired in history, culture and beer. It’s Europe in a nutshell for the lack of a better analogy. It’s got Vienna’s art, a Parisian charm, its beer competes with the best in the world and its cobbled pathways lead everywhere and nowhere, from secret cafes to hidden chapels to unexpected gardens. Charles Bridge, a 14th century stone bridge across the river vltava offers brilliant views of the city spread on both banks and of the gorgeous hilltop castle. After a walking tour discovering the sights of the city you need not seek the comfort of your mattress. Instead soak away your aches in a beer spa and end your day at an absinthe bar if you want. The process of drinking this poison, banned in several countries across the globe, is fascinating to say the least. Prague is a city with a big heart and one we would love to get lost in again and again. Although 24 Hours is too little to spend in this enchanting city, we’ve come up with an exciting Prague guide should you have only that much time at hand.

DAY I 

5.30 P.M.

The old town square is perhaps the heart of the city and one of its most popular and historical areas. Given that it’s filled with dining and drinking establishments of all shapes and sizes, it’s guaranteed to have a sizeable tourist and local population irrespective of the time and day of the week. The astronomical clock is something which is covered during the day walking tour as well, but the evening does add to its charm. Though everything in the city is just a small walk away, the beautiful Charles bridge, literally so, looks enchanting during the night. Adorned with 30 statues, one of which is an effigy of the martyr St John of Nepomuk and legend has it that touching the statue will bring you good luck. A small walk across the bridge is highly recommended.

7 P.M

It is a shame if you miss out on a cultural initiation when in Prague. Arguably the best way to do so would be the Prague Ghosts & Legends Walking Tour (or a similar tour by some other name). Normally about an hour and half long, the tour takes you through the twisting back streets and narrow alleyways visiting mythical monuments like the headquarters of the Knight Templar in Prague and haunted churches. Though probably not as scary as the dedicated ghost tours, this one is for the entire family with the right mix of history, culture and horror to keep everyone on their toes.

8.30 P.M.

Head on to Lehká Hlava, our choice for the best vegetarian food in town. The place serves a mix of Mexican, Italian and Czech food, ideal after the long (and scary) walk which should’ve helped your appetite. The “small clear head” taster plate and the simple green salad with honey-lemon dressing is what we recommend, but the other starter and main course options are just as good. After you’re done, you have an option to head over to Hemingway’s bar for a brief introduction Absinthe and how to drink it the correct way, or picking a barely-pronounceable Trdelník from the vendors in the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. The Trdelník is a traditional pastry made from freshly-grilled dough covered with sugar and ground walnuts and a must have in Prague.

Insider Tip

The food stalls at the very touristy Old Town Square can be a bit pricey. Going a bit off the route will save you a few korun and probably taste a lot nicer too.

DAY II

 9.30 A.M

Photo Credits | Bistro Sisters

Photo Credits | Bistro Sisters

Make your way to the Bistro Sisters for an early morning caffeine kick start and a spot of breakfast. We’ve heard that their “chlebicky” (traditional open-faced sandwiches) especially the option with red beet puree with goat cheese, radishes and cream cheese is a local favorite. The stylish, chic but extremely friendly café can be just the thing to have you prepped up to start the day.

10.30 A.M

Prague offers some of the best walking tours we’ve been on. There are numerous options to choose from based on your time constraints, but we would recommend one which takes you to the Prague Castle, The St. Vitus Cathedral, Kafka’s birth house, the old-new synagogues and the Jewish cemetery.  However if you’re in the mood to go exploring yourself, we have some interesting ideas for you as well. Take a tram from Korunovacní to Ujezd where the funicular railway will take you up to the top of Petřín Hill, which is the summit of one of the most popular parks in Prague, Petřínské Sady. The Petřín Tower which literally towers over the park offers some of the best views of the city given its high vantage point. After your morning fix of shareworthy photos and selfies, you can head towards the Bludišté, a beautiful labyrinthine hall of mirrors. The Prague Castle, a UNESCO Heritage site, is just a short distance away and a must see. Of course you can cover all the above mentioned places on your own, but it simply isn’t the same without someone to guide you around.

12 P.M

If you’ve decided to skip the walking tour, head over to ‘Lesser Town’ or Malá Strana. Picturesque is the word that comes to your mind when visiting these quarters, recognizable by its beautiful Baroque architecture and quaint cobbled side streets. If you feel like a late lunch, grab a cherry cake or a meringue kiss from Cukrkávalimonáda’s patisserie on your way. If you have some time at hand, it’s well worth visiting the farmers market at Holešovická Tržnice , which offers quite a range of trinklets, street fashion, souvenirs and more. The products are much cheaper than the ones available at the more touristy locations and make for a good bargain. 

1:30 P.M

If you’re in the mood to have a light lunch head over to Bistro Zahrada for an organic/ gluten free lunch – they offer outdoor seating as well if the weather is nice and the cakes are scrumptious. Alternately you can visit Estrella, which offers a more robust menu, good food and great service. The daily specials are always interesting and it’s a worthwhile pick if you’re in a mood for a proper lunch.

3 P.M

After lunch and so much outdoor sightseeing, the afternoon calls for some indoor sightseeing in museums (and art galleries if you like). The Museum of Alchemists & Magicians of Old Prague isn’t as fascinating and magical as its name sounds but makes for an interesting visit. The presentation is flashy but is in tune with the theme given that occult practitioners & magicians who tend to be a little sensational themselves.  The Sex Machines Museum might not top everyone’s list but should be if only for the bragging rights. That it is the only museum of its kind in the world makes it a must visit for the vaguely curious, couples on the road and solo backpackers alike. Families might want to give it a miss to avoid uncomfortable questions by curious kids. If your quota of weirdness is still not full, you might want to head over to the Museum of Historical Chamber of Pots & Toilets. We discovered a similar one in Delhi, but this one has quite the collection too.

5 P.M.

It would be tough to beat the above list with anything remotely normal so we would recommend heading over to the Lennon wall, which takes a bit of negotiating a maze of narrow alleyways to reach and is a graffiti laden wall dedicated to John Lennon. Surprisingly, the history isn’t about the city’s fascination with music but as a symbol of Czech youth’s resistance against the previous communist regime which banned a slew of things including pop music. A fitting and interesting end to our proposed tour. Should you still be in town and have some time at hand, head over to the Beer Spa Carlsbad, the most popular spa of its kind in Prague. Reservations are not mandatory but recommended to not have you miss out on the one of its kind experience while in this city.

This concludes our itinerary for this wonderful city. If you have some suggestions or recommendations of things to do to add to the Prague guide, please feel free to mention them in your comments.

Like it Pin it

24 Hours in Prague, The city of Spires We say we lost our heart to Budapest only because we went there earlier. If not, chances are that it would be stolen by this city of spires, mired in history, culture and beer.

[gypsycouple]

It is said “Dilli hai dil waalon ki” – Delhi is for the people who wear their heart on their sleeves. As with the other megalopolis’ of the Indian Subcontinent, there exists a frenzied chaos which envelops you when you set foot upon its soil. A normal Delhi Darshan is one led by the sheer hordes of immovable pedestrians, sacred cows, haggling porters, pestering street peddlers and honking rickshaws and taxis. However it is also what lends it its charm – vivid and vibrant. Given its long history, the jumbo sized city is composed of a mix of architectural pieces which lends it its vibrancy. It is easy to get lost in the splendid palaces, tombs and mosques left behind by the Mughals and exit into a splendid British Raj monument – probably used as a government building. It’s also easy to find a steady equilibrium between shanty towns and restricted diplomatic areas both indispensable parts of the city’s personality. Given how intimidating it can become for first timers in the city, we’ve shortlisted a Delhi Darshan for the ideal 24 hours in the city.

DELHI DARSHAN DAY I

6 P.M:

You’ve just arrived in the city via a ride hailing app, the metro or some other safe mode of airport transfer in delhi and need a bit of loosening up. Head to Connaught Place which apart from being one of the largest commercial hubs in the country is also a testament to the architectural genius Edward Lutyen’s idea of Delhi. Well connected by all manners of local transport, it has entertainment options of all kinds like cinemas, restaurants, drinking holes as well as several bustling markets including an underground one, within its premises. If nothing else it is a wonderful place to get a feel of rhythm of the city, perfect for an evening stroll or for a bout of people watching. We recommend trying some flavoured milk shakes from Keventers, grabbing some desserts or savoury bakes at Wengers or simply enjoying some street side shopping (haggling is a must). A couple of hours should whiz by as you head to the next destination on our list.

  8 P.M.

Photo Credits | Whatsuplife.in

Hauz Khas Village (pronounced as Horse Cars Village) is arguably the trendiest destination of the city. Previously a hub for artists to sell/showcase/promote their wares, it has grown into a gathering hub for the city social elites as the smaller shops gave way to the bigger art galleries, boutiques, fancy restaurants, bars and night clubs. Dining options are numerous and have a variety of cuisines on offer from Mediterranean to East Asian to a much lesser known Himalayan cuisine. Ofcourse should you desire a more regular fare, the place abounds in North Indian, South Indian and Italian cuisines as well. One of our favourite places to hang out in Delhi the only concern would be to get a table during the weekends. Hauz Khas Social, The Project at Park Balluchi and the Hippie Trail would be some of our recommendations for this new age bohemian destination.

  DELHI DARSHAN DAY II

Hangover of the previous night aside, you should be geared up for the long day ahead of you as you check out the city sights.

9 A.M.

It is a difficult proposition to ask a fellow traveller to wake up early and give up on the free breakfast on offer (one that could have been a deciding factor in selecting the hotel in question). It’s a no brainer ofcourse if you consider that the first bit of sightseeing on the menu is a food tour (see what we did here) Delhi through your tastebuds if you like. Chandni Chowk is perhaps the most well known place in Delhi to get a feel of the authentic street food that the city is famous for and with good reason. Head over to Sita Ram Diwan Chand for its legendary Choley Bhature (Chick pea curry with deep fried balloon bread) if you do not mind your breakfast a bit spicy. Eat light as you will be returning here for the second round.

  10 A.M.

After a quick breakfast, head over to Jama Masjid, the largest and best known Mosque in India. Climb up the intimidating stairs and explore the gates and towers of this beautiful monument. Remember to dress conservatively covering your knees, shoulder and head as a sign of respect to the place of worship. The huge courtyard can accommodate 25000 worshipers at a time and the interiors including the inlay detail of the arches and the decorate marble on the floor is unparalleled. The early morning excursion helps avoid the sweltering heat, the tourist crowds and the accompanying touts offering a “history tour” of the monument.

  11 A.M.

The Red Fort, a short distance away back towards the Chandni Chowk market, is another colossal monument. The fort is so named because of the red sandstone used to build it. The fort was the residence of the Mughal Emperors and their families and remains an iconic structure even in the present political structure of the country. Despite our misgivings about the utility of guides to exploring a place, given the huge size of the structure it is recommended to get an official guide or atleast rent an audio guide easily available beside the entry ticket counter. The written guides at each structure, though helpful, is simply not enough to take you through the history behind the beautiful inner courts & pavilions and the private residences of the Mughal emperor, his wives and his mistresses.

  12 P.M.

After a long morning of sightseeing it is essential to refill the tank for another round of exploring. The lunch is said to be the most important meal of the day and it is essential that we take you through our picks of the lot. Start with Dahi Bhalle (Savory fritters submerged in thick yogurt topped with coriander and tamarind condiment) & Aaloo Tikki (Piping hot Potato fritters with a filling of cottage cheese/crushed lentils and assorted spices, topped with tamarind and coriander condiments) at Natraj Dahi Bhalla wala, a hole in the wall shop serving these delectable treasures. Be sure not to fall into temptation and order a second serving as we’ve a lot more lined up for your lunch. Head over to Kake di Hatti serving arguably the best Paranthas (Whole Wheat unleavened flat bread stuffed with a filling of your choice) in town. They are more famous for its challenges to patrons to finish their jumbo sized parantha in one sitting (an impossible task for sure given its size). Ask specifically for its regular size to have a remote chance of finishing it and having a taste of the desserts ahead. On exiting the shop you can stumble/walk/crawl your way over to the shop on the right. Giani’s, offers arguably the best Rabri Falooda in Delhi, the home of this sweet, condensed milk based dish topped with vermicelli, making it the best of its kind in the world. If you have a little space in your dessert stomach left over (we believe in having two stomachs, one for normal food and another for desserts), head over to the nearest vendor selling Shahi Tukda (pieces of bread being fried in clarified butter) is as great as its name which literally means pieces of royalty. There, we’re done and hopefully you should be too. If not, take a break and head over to our next destination.

If you’re fond of street food, you might like our post on the Best Vegetarian Streetfood in Old Delhi

  2.00 P.M.

Photo Credits | Sulabh Toilet Museum

The Sulabh Toilet Museum won’t find its way into most tourist itineraries simply because it’s weird. If the next question on your mind is how weird, it was listed as the third weirdest museum in the World by Time Magazine. It displays toilet related paraphernalia from as far back as 2,500 BC has everything from ordinary chamber pots to ornate Victorian toilet seats. The museum houses toilets sourced from over 50 countries including a replica of the throne of King Louis the XIV who was rumoured to defecate while holding court sessions. All in all it seems an ideal place to flush out all the stress in your system, pun intended.

  3.30 P.M.

A longish drive or a couple of changed trains in the Delhi metro takes you to Qutub Minar, the gorgeous red sandstone and marble tower which is the tallest brick minaret in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site just like Humayun’s Tomb. There are several other medieval period monuments in the complex including the iron pillar rumoured to be the first example of a corrosion free composition and a testament to the skills of the Indian blacksmiths of the time. Go for a leisurely walk around the Qutub complex exploring the other mosques and tombs.

  4.30 P.M.

A short drive will take you to Humayun’s Tomb. Built in the memory of the second Mughal Emperor, it is the first garden tomb complex in India built by the Mughals and looks very similar to the magnificent Taj Mahal for which it was an inspiration. The red sandstone structure looks beautiful and serene as you take a walk alongside the water channels of the garden and gives an entirely different perspective when you look at the garden and the city from atop the structure. Despite it being a popular tourist attraction, it is blessed with a calm and quiet unlike its brethren and sets the mood for our next destination.

  5.30 P.M.

Photo Credits | WikIcommons

If you’re in the mood for a small walk, Lodhi Gardens, our final sightseeing destination is just 2-3 Kms away translating to a 15-20 minute walk. If you’re tired you can try hailing an autorickshaw which might end up taking a similar amount of time and effort. Lodhi Gardens is a historical city park housing several tombs including one of Mohammad Shah and of Sikander Lodi and one of the last known buildings from Emperor Akbar’s reign, the Athpula, or the eight piered bridge. Lodi Garden remains an important place of preservation but is known more for its peaceful ambience making it a favorite for morning joggers. Afterwards, you can head to either Lodi – The Garden Restaurant for an exclusive fine dine experience or to Big Chill café at the nearby Khan market for a lighter more snackier meal with incredible desserts (we recommend their version of their Banofee pie)

    There’s enough and more to do in this wonderful city and should you have a little more time at hand, hit us up for some more inspiration / recommendations of things to do and see.

LIKE IT PIN IT

Delhi darshan | 24 hours in Delhi It is said “Dilli hai dil waalon ki” – Delhi is for the people who wear their heart on their sleeves.

[gypsycouple]

Bhainsrorgarh fort is a luxury boutique hotel and one of the best kept secrets of Rajasthan. Overlooking the mighty Chambal river and the much smaller Brahmini river, the views are pretty much unbeatable especially during and after the monsoon when the rivers are at full strength. That it is a living fort with an entire village of about 5,000 people still flourishing within its walls just adds to the experience.

An erstwhile fiefdom it is still managed by the royal family who have converted part of the fort into a luxury boutique hotel. The rooms retain their charm of their glorious years and though part of it the hotel looks dated, it is quite in tune with its theme. The royal family lives in another part of the fort but are readily accessible should you be in need of anything including a conversation. The feeling of staying at one of their palatial suites with a view of the river, is incomparable and frankly breath-taking.

The fort is not as grand and large as its counterpart in Chittorgarh nearby but still manages to provide a safe sanctuary for the people who call it home – all 5000 of them. The streets are narrow but the people we managed to see on the road were all with wide grins on their face, happily working at their chores. The fort was restored and converted into the luxury hotel as recently as 2006 and the Royal family still live in an adjoining wing, easily accessible and always welcoming.

The countryside around the Fort at first glance reminded us of Scotland. The region is hilly, the weather misty and cool and the erstwhile forests have given way to vast meadows and farmlands giving it a very similar feel. The river is infested with crocodiles which can be often seen sunning themselves on the banks or mistaken as floating logs of wood until you see a snout breaking the water and finally realize your folly. It is quite impossible to believe you are in the desert state of Rajasthan while you’re staying there and is easily one of the best hotels we’ve managed to stay in till date. It was love at first sight and we will be coming back for more.

Rooms & the View:

We were booked into the Mewar suite which is the biggest suite available at this hotel. Big is actually an understatement while describing the room which has a bed room with two balconies overlooking two rivers, has a small dining room with a fantastic view leading to a living room and a bathroom which had a wet and dry area with a chair in the middle of it. We couldn’t fathom the reason why a chair was placed there but we assume it might be for guests like us who might get tired moving about in the room.

Given that we were the only guests at the time of check-in the entire floor was ours for the duration of the stay. Which meant sole access to the common lounging area complete with sofas and sitting areas which might have been made for the princesses to relax. All the windows had tiny patterns of coloured glass and with the sunlight streaming in created a magical effect. The bed room had a huge four poster bed underneath a giant dome with some kind of paintings on it but was rather bare boned except for that. However the alcoves within the walls and the side tables offered enough space to place the water and our belongings for easy access. The main hero of the room was not the bed (although it was among the comfortable one we’ve slept in) but the balcony and its view. We’ve talked about the fabulous view from the room at some other places we’ve stayed at but this view was out of the world. It is too much of a task ever for writers like us to describe a scene which has us standing in a restored fort looking out of jharokha in a balcony of a luxurious room, staring at a wide expanse of water which is the Chambal river surrounded by a green meadow with the far horizon shrouded in mist. That we were welcomed by gusts of wet wind promising of rain as soon as we opened the balcony door just made it seem all the more dreamy.

The room has no TV or gigantic tubs to soak in or probably the frills you would associate with a luxury hotel  (except for a state of the art Lavazza coffee make which frankly felt out of place in the room) but still felt luxurious. The sofas could’ve been a bit more comfortable and there could’ve been more strategically placed plug points to cater to the technology toting smart travellers but frankly those are inconsequential and manufactured whining’s to dispel the hypnosis of this place. To say it as it was, we were charmed out of our wits.

Service:

There is no polished hospitality management graduates to welcome you in. No hierarchical blue/red/green tape to go through when you need something done. Because, wait for it, there are no managers. That ridiculous (or was it incredulous) face you might be making reflects ours when we heard about it. The property, small as it is, is run by two brothers from the lineage of the Royal family of Bhainsrorgarh. To give each guest the personal attention they deserve and to give this place a feel of a homestay (albeit a royal one) rather than a hotel, they’ve done away with the concept of managers and employ mostly local staff from the region (we found that most of the resident staff was from villages in Madhya Pradesh hardly a few hours away). In an interesting mix of technology and practicality, each room is provided with a remote buzzer connected directly to the kitchens where the staff congregates. This ensures prompt response and does away with the needless concept of an intercom system which would serve no incremental purpose. Our personal experience with the system was faultless but we can see it running into issues when the hotel is fully booked, given the limited staff at hand. The staff are warm, eager and aim to please, disappearing into the shadows when not needed and magically appearing at the softest call. However, the two brothers, either of whom might be your host during your stay, are a notch above. They are wonderful company, will take special attention to your needs and ask for feedback and opinion with open frankness as if you were a family friend and not a guest. We felt it odd that a luxury hotel was positioning itself as a homestay experience while looking at their website, but a stay there will convince you there’s merit to their thoughts and leave wishing your other stays were like this.

Food:

The food served here is totally Indian with a bent towards local Rajasthani cuisine. We had an assortment of dishes throughout our stay with no curry repeated and every meal a unique spread in itself. That in itself was a remarkable experience. The food was yummy, less oily than we expected and frankly had us waiting eagerly for the next meal. The only thing we feel could be improved is a little pro-activeness from the chef/staff in checking if the menu agrees with the guest. Although we did not face any major issues, a fixed menu cannot cater to everyone and a prior discussion can ensure that the chef has enough time to prepare the changes and the guests are satisfied with their meal. That said, the food was the best we had during our trip and can understand why so many of the reviews complement the food so much. A bit of advice, the local food can be a bit heavy on the stomach for guests not used to it and a measure of modicum in stuffing yourself with it, can ensure a smooth and fulfilling trip with the ability to enjoy the other meals. The meals are served on the roof which has one of the best views we’ve enjoyed during a meal and the candle light dinners can be incredibly romantic.

Activities:

The owners have created a range of activities to enjoy during your stay but unfortunately we weren’t able to experience most of them given the bad weather. However time passes by in a jiffy and we feel we could’ve easily extended a day. A boat ride to a small island on the river for a picnic is one of their best activities and should not be missed. Done in a small rowing boat early in the morning, the experience can be incredibly romantic. A small hike round the periphery of the fort leading through the Chhatri’s (cremating grounds of the Royal family) and onwards to a hanging bridge which leads you to the farmlands on the other side of the river is another small activity which is again highly recommended. The views from the hanging bridge of the fort walls and the birdlife around is quite marvellous. A short ride or a hike to the Baroli/Badoli temple complex should be done. The best part about the excursion being that there are hardly any visitors there. The only people to give you company would be the temple priest and a couple of guards from the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India). The temples, most of them now in a semi ruined state, are eight in number, dedicated to Lord Shiva, Goddess Durga, Lord Vishnu & Lord Ganesha. The temples said to be built during the 9th-10th century are one of the earliest temple complexes in Rajasthan.

End Notes & Tips:

Bhainsrorgarh is now officially our favourite recommendation for non-mainstream Rajasthan and for anyone in the mood for R&R.

The road leading from the main highway to the fort is single lane and can be a bit bumpy, however the destination is well worth the journey. The road coming in from Kota is supposedly in a better condition than the one coming from Chittorgarh.

Ask for top floor suites for the best rooms and views. The deluxe rooms do not share the great views and if budget is not a constraint, the suites are highly recommended.

Fact File:

Bhainsrorgarh Fort is 50 Km (Roughly 1 Hr) from Kota and about 250 Km (Roughly 4 Hours) from Udaipur & Sawi Madhopur (Ranthambore).

The best time to visit would ideally be just during the monsoons when it is green beyond imagination and the river is full. However from our personal experience the roads are in a bad shape in the season and the trip can be avoided. Given that the summers are hot and the lack of a swimming pool makes it quite uninhabitable, Oct to March remains the best season to experience the property.

Bhainsrorgarh is great for couples looking for romance or even solo travelers wanting some peace and quiet. You can book a room at their website for the best prices

Love it. Pin it!

  [Review] Bhainsrorgarh Fort – The Scotland of Rajasthan Bhainsrorgarh fort is a luxury boutique hotel and one of the best kept secrets of Rajasthan. Overlooking the mighty Chambal river and the much smaller Brahmini river, the views are pretty much unbeatable especially during and after the monsoon when the rivers are at full strength.

[gypsycouple]

Fateh Prakash Palace located within the City Palace complex by the edge of Lake Pichola offers one of the best boutique luxury experiences in Udaipur. Built by Maharana Fateh Singh in the 1800’s at a stunning location at the edge of the Lake Pichola, this luxury hotel oozes opulence and offers enviable views of the lake. The location and the interiors coupled with the privacy that comes with staying within the City Palace complex easily makes it one of the most romantic hotels in Udaipur.

However the most captivating essence of the rooms are the views they offer. In 1828, Lieutenant Colonel James Tod, then political agent to the Western Rajput States, described the city in his Annals and Antiquities as the “most romantic spot on the continent of India”. It is easy to see why. The icy white Lake Palace best known for its cameo in the 007 blockbuster Octopussy is one of the most searched Indian monument after the Taj Mahal and can be seen in its full glory with a backdrop of the Aravalli’s from the rooms. Through the little touches of luxury, its heritage shines through without looking old or dated and hints that we are in a hotel which is many notches above the rest.

Grounds & Accommodation:

Situated within the City Palace complex, the hotel is as exclusive as they come. One has to pass through numerous checkpoints and guards wanting to see your security pass (yes, all guests get one per room) before you’re ushered in to your hotel. The most convenient way to explore the Palace grounds is through the golf carts offered as a complimentary service to the guests of Fateh Prakash & Shiv Niwas Palace. The hotel was once a palace and it looks the part with its luxurious interiors, plush sofas and frames after frames of the royal family. Check-in is a smooth and somewhat embarrassing affair with us being garlanded on arrival and but the welcome drink and the wet towels offered helped hide the blush. We were then asked to fill a customary document with our particulars and were then escorted to our room for a brief tour highlighting the presence of the mini bar, the room service menu and the breakfast timings. Our first impression of the room was a big wow.

The living room and the bed room was separated by three small arches, there were big TV’s in both the areas, though who would want to watch TV in a room with such a view, was beyond us. The interior designer might know their stuff a bit though, given that they had added in a small sitting area by the window which was by far our favourite part of the room.

The bathroom offered a similar view should one wish to soak in the views while relaxing in the generously large tub. The minibar was well stocked and as with all minibars generously priced. Guests are provided with a small fruit basket daily as well as a small box of yummy cookies in the afternoon and chocolates in the evening. The bed is gigantic and among the softest we’ve had the pleasure of sleeping upon. Given the rigours of our urban 9 to 6 lives it was definitely a great way to get some much needed beauty sleep in.

Dining:

Fateh Prakash offers access to what is arguably one of the most scenic restaurants in Udaipur, the Sunset Terrace. Though it is thronged by tourists during the evening and quite understandably chaotic, we enjoyed our breakfast in peace and quiet. The breakfast spread is huge with both Indian and continental offerings available and with the serene waters of the lake for company. We can see how the place gets its name and quite rightly the sunsets should be spectacular with a glass of bubbly in your hand to go along.

Location:

The location is quite unbeatable when you consider that the City Palace is right at your backyard. If you wish to go beyond the doors, a quick golf cart ride later you can find yourself at the Tripoliya gates which lead to a small marketplace and the very famous Jagdish Temple, about 100 metres ahead. If you’re in the exploring mood, you can take a short walk through the smaller lanes, packed with shops selling clothes, accessories and paintings and plop down in one of the small café’s on the way. The ghats are all reachable by foot and provide a peek at the real Udaipur. If you’re not in the walking mood, the tuk-tuk’s are available at every crossing and uber/ola on every phone. However do remember to haggle before jumping in a tuk-tuk as the rates quoted are more likely than not very inflated especially if they see you exiting the city palace complex. In our experience, it’s best to start at about 50% of the rate quoted and work up.

Ending note & Tips:

We stayed at the spectacular premier suites but the lake facing dovecote rooms can provide equally enticing views should budget be a constraint. One should always go for the continental plan given the huge breakfast spread on order. Plus having the breakfast in the sunset terrace is an experience in itself. Though there is no swimming pool at Fateh Prakash, guests can use the one at their sister hotel, Shiv Niwas Palace which is a short 5 minute golf cart ride away. However the timings are a bit odd and better checked with if swimming is on your mind. The views from all lake facing rooms should be similar but try to get a room on the higher floor for a better experience. For restaurant visits or a trip to the monsoon palace call up an uber/ola. The rides are cheaper and faster than the ones called up by the front desk.

Fact File:

Fateh Prakash Palace is right at the edge of Lake Pichola and in the heart of the city of Udaipur. It offers a choice between 21 Dovecote rooms and 44 Dovecote Premier Suites.

The best time to visit would be just after the monsoons when the lakes fill up and/or in the winters when it is much cooler. However given its close proximity to the state of Gujarat, it has evolved into a yearlong tourist destination.

We stayed in one of the top floor premier suites however, to our knowledge all lake facing rooms share a similar view and only differ in the size of the room and possibly the amenities on offer (Not bath tubs with lake views)

Fateh Prakash is great for couples given its romantic setting and families given the easy access to all the sights and should be in the consideration set if you’re looking for a luxurious stay in this beautiful lake city. You can book a room at their website for the best prices

Like it. Pin it !

[Review] Fateh Prakash Palace, Udaipur – View with a room Fateh Prakash Palace located within the City Palace complex by the edge of Lake Pichola offers one of the best boutique luxury experiences in Udaipur.

[gypsycouple]

Mountbatten Lodge is a colonial styled luxury retreat nestled within the green canopy of the Aravalli’s near Ranakpur. The Jain Temples there are one of the best open secrets in India and most people, except the devout, who do visit, visit it as a day trip from Udaipur and are hence not able to enjoy what the place has to offer. Mountbatten Lodge, just under 10 Kms away, provides the perfect base camp to visit this marvelous monument without the undue pressure of a late return.

The story goes that the region was once a popular hunting ground for the British officials and this particular clearing was where the camps were set up especially for one prominent British official, Mountbatten. The verdant forest still covers the property and being up in the mountain beyond the cluster of hotels that have come up near the very popular Ranakpur Jain Temples means that you get to enjoy the place as it is meant to be, in peace and serenity.

The location was deemed quite dangerous as recently as 6-7 years ago because of the close proximity to the Garasia tribals who would shoot arrows at and loot unsuspecting tourists passing through post sunset. However initiatives by the local government and the owners have put an end to it and made it safe even for guests who would prefer to walk down the road and enjoy the countryside. Indeed the green cover on both side of the road, coupled with the pleasant climate up in the hills makes for a great walk down the usually lonely motorable road.

The Green canopy which surrounds the property extends into it as well albeit in a more controlled fashion. Indeed, the property has a small stream running through it as well as a small pond with lotuses blooming and frogs croaking. An ancient Banyan tree however is the place of preference for most guests who prefer its shade while having lunch. The small bridges, grey stone buildings and the dining halls with hints of neo-classical/greek revival architecture sound all over the place but come very well together. The interiors are opulent and have been decorated with memorabilia’s, antiques, photos and the like from the owner’s personal collection. The owner, Mr. Reggie Singh, the Grandson of the erstwhile Maharaja of Jodhpur, is quite affable and frankly great company for relaxed evenings to get you settled in. The music which plays during your meals as also in the bar area during the evening is personally curated by him and is fantastic. So much so that we had half a mind to request him to share it with us. Talking with him is part of the experience which Mountbatten provides and an experience it is. Where else would you be so relaxed having a light cup of tea or a drink in the company of Royalty?

Accomodation & Service:

There are just 4 rooms in the property for guests which makes the experience extremely private. A single villa houses all the 4 rooms, each with a different décor but very similar amenities. Four poster beds, huge living rooms, open showers, huge tubs and to top it off a beautiful plunge pool for lazy summer evenings. There was nothing we would’ve wanted more from a room which frankly could’ve been mistaken for a villa if we didn’t know better. In keeping with the colonial theme, there are no geysers in the room and hot water baths would require a bit of prior notice, especially for early morning showers. The gas heater takes about 15-20 minutes to send hot water up to the rooms and unless you’re on a hurried timeline, was not a problem. The best and worst part about the property is the lack of connectivity. Mobile networks are impossible to catch, there is no intercom and the absence of Wifi seems quite painful for the first 15 minutes or so.

A small bell is laid out on a table as the de-facto means of communication. It’s as if someone handed us a magic lamp and every time we rub it, the genie magically appears out of nowhere fulfilling our every wish. The analogy isn’t quite far behind once you experience it. The marvellous Daul ji with his huge moustaches is omnipresent and take about half a second to respond. In the rare chance of his absence Mr. Chauhan the guardian of this sanctuary is always there to lend a hand. We’ve been treated to very high levels of service in our travels and are quite a challenge to impress. But impressed we were with the sheer efficiency of this seemingly pre-medieval mechanism. Each one of the staff members we encountered were highly trained in the art of hospitality, some polished, some rustic but overall smooth as a clockwork. The “Ji Hukum’s” still resound through our minds when we look at the pictures or remember the place.

Food:

Frankly we were a bit disappointed initially when we sat down to what we thought was very simple fare for a place of this caliber. However a few bites in, it begins to sink in how apt the food is for the place. You do not come to a place like this to gorge on unhealthy food rich in oil and butter but to relax and enjoy. The food is completely in tune with the surroundings, light, non-oily and non-spicy and is best for keeping the tummy in good spirits throughout the journey. The food served was mostly Indian fare but should you prefer a more continental offering, the chef seemed well adept at dishing out some of that as well. Personally, we would had appreciated it a bit more if they had asked us for a preference or dietary restrictions before serving the meal. It is not essential nor is it a norm but it definitely would’ve given them a brownie point if they had. However we will be back to have that missed lunch under the Banyan tree!

Ending notes & Tips:

Their 3 dogs can be really playful and will jump all over you if they take a liking to you. Usually that’s not a bad thing but for Nirali who already has a mild fear of anything with a sharp set of fangs, it was quite a frightening experience (and a muddy one, given how the dogs had been splashing about in the post monsoon puddles around the property). However for someone who loves dogs, the sight of the bounding dogs with their tongues lolling out can be quite cheering.

Be prepared to be completely cut out from the outer world once you’re inside the premises. Except for a small area near the banyan tree, it is near impossible to catch a network anywhere inside the premises which might cause a few hiccups for those waiting for some important business calls. However why anyone would bring their business with them at such a location will probably be beyond us.

The small stream passing through the property looks inaccessible but can be reached through a small makeshift pathway near the banyan tree. If you’re a bit daring, you can go down to the stream and dip your foot in the cool clean waters for some natural therapy. And it makes for a wonderful photo-op as well.

Fact File:

Mountbatten Lodge is 10 Km (Roughly 20 Mins) from Ranakpur Jain Temples and about 100  Km (Roughly 2 Hours) from Udaipur.

The best time to visit would be just after the monsoons when it is green beyond imagination and/or in the winters when the climate is better. We would imagine the summers to be cool as well given the forested surroundings and give a worthy excuses for a dip in the beautiful plunge pool, making it a round the year property

We stayed in one of the two top floor suites with a private plunge pool, however, to our knowledge all suite options come with similar décor and only differ in its layout (The ground floor rooms are interconnected suites sharing a swimming pool)

Mountbatten is great for couples looking for some alone time, families come to spend some time together or even solo travelers wanting some peace and quiet. You can book a room at their website for the best prices

We were guests of Mountbatten Lodge, Ranakpur but as always our opinions and experiences are unbiased, untarnished and entirely our own!

Like it, Pin it!

[Review] Mountbatten Lodge – Magical Disconnect Mountbatten Lodge is a colonial styled luxury retreat nestled within the green canopy of the Aravalli’s near Ranakpur.

[gypsycouple]

Mihirgarh is a fantastic combination of roots, tradition, modernity and luxury. It is then no surprise that it has won multiple awards including the best luxury hotel award this year. Incredibly romantic, luxurious and beautiful beyond pictures, this hotel is an experience in itself. If you share our love for horses you will have one more reason to love this gorgeous boutique hotel – it has its own stables and breeds the world famous Marwari horse’s right in the property itself. It is not uncommon to see horses galloping right in front of you as you relax in the private plunge pool in your room. Our favourite part of the stay, there are only nine suites in this wonderland making it a very private experience.

It takes a broken down road through farms, streams and arid land with rocky outcroppings to reach the property. Named Mihirgarh – The fort of the sun, it was built ground up by the Royal family of the region who also owns another heritage hotel, Rohetgarh. However the two properties could not be more different. Mihirgarh is just 2 storeys high with the suites on the ground floor and the top floor named after their prized stallions – Alishan & Shandaar. Their deep connection with horses continues to shows up both in the interiors and the activities on offer. For us, gazing at their shining mane fluttering in the wind as they galloped away around the perimeter of their fenced grounds was enough to take our breath away.

Hotel & Grounds:

The outer structure is imposing and the sand coloured walls are maintained by a coating of cement and sand every year, give it a very authentic look. A big board citing it to be a Relais & Chateux property stands next to the huge doors leading into the main building. The brand equals peak levels of service and exclusivity and we weren’t disappointed at all. The photos and the reviews we had read online described it to be a desert retreat being situated in a semi arid region. However the ample rains before our arrival had ensured we were given a largely green greeting. Infact if not for the patches of loose yellow sand where the roads had broken away, it would have been impossible to decipher that we were standing in the middle of the desert. An oasis we had hoped for and an oasis is what we received.

The huge doors open to a small temple and lead further on to a small garden with fountains and chirping birds. A bit ahead lay the common lounging area with a small bar, the dining space as well as the common pool. Oh the pool! Most pools fail to live up to the expectations built up by the professional photographs put up by the hotel. However Mihirgarh’s pool instantly climbed ranks and was beautiful enough to crawl up to our lust worthy pools list. A curved infinity pool staring out to nowhere, surrounded by a pool deck and close enough to the dining area to hop out for a mid-swim snack if you so require. There is also a small library attached to a small garden at the back for small parties and gatherings. The stairs beside them lead upto a sunset lounge which we assume would be pretty much neglected by its guests given how beautiful the sunset looks from the poolside except maybe for someone desiring privacy.

Accommodation:

We have been to some of the best hotels in the country and it is in our opinion, quite a task to wow us anymore. Add that to the high expectations we had of the property even before arriving there and they had a very difficult challenge ahead of them already. However miracles do happen and it did. The rooms are tastefully decorated and we are told that the interiors of each room are different while staying true to the theme. Additionally, everything in the property including the décor and even most of the staff, are sourced either locally or from Jodhpur, making it in our books the best example of sustainable tourism. The rooms are luxurious without feeling overtly opulent. The beds are incredibly soft and it’s very easy to sink into your sleep as you lie down on it. The small number of rooms ensure that the only sounds you hear are of the birds who might come by to say hello. We’ve had so many pretty birds gallivanting around the plunge pool throughout our stay, it was fascinating to say the least.

We stayed in a suite on the ground floor overlooking the stables and in our opinion is the best room of the property. The room actually starts at a small door leading to a private courtyard of sorts with a fountain and a small sitting space sunk into the wall. The main door of the room opens into a living room with a furnace while the bed room has glass windows overlooking the courtyard. The living room also leads to the private plunge pool overlooking the stables. We found a pathway leading from the stables towards our rooms and beyond making the plunge pool not really the most private of areas. We didn’t catch anyone walking on the path below the room throughout our stay but given that a working road was built means it is readily accessible – no skinny dipping! However that is just us being a little picky about things and would probably not bother most other guests.

Food:

The dining area is beautiful and the beautiful cutlery, custom made. No buffets as the options are Ala carte, you order what you want to eat. However, the options on the menu are limited and we can see how that can quickly become a bother for people wanting to stay longer. We did not call upon the chef to see if they could whip up something not in the menu, but if possible then our fears are unwarranted and all’s well with the world again. Sorta.

The Indian dishes were too oily for our taste and the pizzas we had in the evening a bit too bland. However, the roulade which the chef had made for us was lip-smacking which leads us to believe that maybe the chef’s specialty wasn’t Indian but the Continental/European fare. The service as expected was great – quick and smooth and a frankly a joy. Tip: Take the corner seat with a pool view for the best dining experience.

Service:

There was absolutely nothing we could find to fault the service with. The staff was always on their toes to make our stay comfortable. That we were always greeted with a smile and there was no hovering around for tips definitely tipped the scale for us. It was indeed faultless to the core. What left a huge impression on us however was their drive to go beyond what is required. When we were checking out and leaving for a day trip to Jodhpur, they packed us a goodie bag for the road despite it not being required. Thoughtfulness like this goes a long way with guests and is well deserving of the standards set by it.

Horses:

The stables are very clean with none of the stink and general crabbiness we would normally associate with the place. The horses looked healthy and were generally in good spirits, especially one which kept beckoning us with head nods and shrugs. We were later told that the particular horse was a bit naughty and might have probably wanted to nip one of our ears. The stables opened to a big ground, the one visible from our room, in which the horses were left free to exercise, roam about and graze. On the whole we found the stable master to be quite a jolly guy himself who loved his horses. Even when they were proudly showing off the horses to us, they used loving words and tightening of reigns to calm them and none of the whips and slaps to the back which was quite pleasing and relieving to us as animal lovers. There is something about horses and freedom which moves the heart. The sight of them galloping around the ground as they are set free is thrilling and enchanting.

End Notes:

Favourite place: Pool deck in the morning and the special sitting arrangement by the pool at night with local musicians playing some melodious tunes to keep us company.It is also in our opinion one of the most romantic locations we’ve come across and surely “the” place for an impromptu proposal

Favourite food: Anjeer ke Kebab – This particular delicacy is something we had not tried before and were a bit of a mixed bag but well worth a try. Our favourite meal was the breakfast by the pool, with no one else for company except the birds which milled around us either for a bite or to gawk at us strangers encroaching upon their space.

Favourite experience: Lounging in our plunge pool watching the horses gallop past. The sunset by the pool deck would be a close second and only so because it is the place everyone assembles at in the evening and can seem a bit crowded.

Fact File:

Mihirgarh is 74 Km (Roughly 1.5 Hours) from Jodhpur City and about 22 Km (Roughly 30 Mins) from Rohetgarh, their sister property.

The best time to visit would be just after the monsoons when it is green beyond imagination and/or in the winters when the climate allows you to explore more of the surrounding.

We stayed in one of the stable facing Alishan suite which is one of the 9 suites you can stay at. All suite options come with similar décor and only differ in size or the views they offer. We would recommend the ground floor suites as the plunge pools are bigger in size.

Mihirgarh stables are used for breeding the horses and hence all the riding activities are done at their sister property Rohetgarh which also houses a stable.

Mihirgarh is great for couples looking for some alone time, quiet and pampering. Great for Honeymooners or for any special occasion/anniversary. You can book a room at their website for the best prices

We were guests of Mihirgarh but as always our opinions and experiences are unbiased, untarnished and entirely our own!

Love what you read? Pin it!

[Review] Mihirgarh – Luxurious Romance Mihirgarh is a fantastic combination of roots, tradition, modernity and luxury. It is then no surprise that it has won multiple awards including the best luxury hotel award this year.

[gypsycouple]

Rajasthan in Monsoon - The Ultimate Itinerary

Rajasthan in Monsoon – The Ultimate Itinerary

Rajasthan in Monsoon has been in our minds since we decided to explore Goa in monsoons a couple of years back. That it ticks all the checkboxes of things you would normally want out of a holiday, makes it a fabulous idea for a trip. Off season prices – Check, Lesser number of tourists – Check, Great weather – Check and if you’re like us and simple love having the world around you turn a brilliant…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

The boat safari at Nagarhole National Park (Kabini) is a very different experience and is in no way inferior to the land safari which is often preferred due to the higher probability of sighting a big cat. From a personal perspective, even considering our fantastic sighting during the land safari, we can easily recommend the boat safari if you have the time. If not the birds, the unique perspective of seeing in from the water into the forest, the various amphibians including crocodiles & otters and the picturesque setting for the sunset is unparalleled and should not be missed.

  After the spectacular results of the previous day’s Land safari we were pretty gung-ho about the second day’s safari. PK, our host at KAAV had recommended the boat safari to complete the basic tour of the sanctuary but had also added that there were many who chose only to do the land safari because of the greater chances of sighting the big cats. After a bit of deliberation we decided to take PK’s advice and go for the boat tour. We started off on a similar note as the last safari, having no expectations from it. Minimal chances of big cat sightings meant no edge of the seat excitement and that is probably what we feel led to it being such a great experience.

  The boat is accompanied by a guide and a driver (if that’s what they’re called) and for all practical purposes our encyclopaedia for the evening. However, with us sitting right at the back and near the engine, more than half of what the guide told us was lost in transit. For what feels like a long time and probably was, we did not approach the actual forest and it was easy to spot couples and families lounging about on the shore. When we finally approached the forest and we suddenly started spotting animals left right and centre. Elephants, deers, sambhars, boars, bisons all of them could be seen grazing, playing and drinking as we pulled near the edge to view them closely and get a few good shots in. We spotted a couple of crocodiles sunning themselves on an embankment and as we pulled in closer they suddenly dived into the water, their privacy impinged upon by us stalkers.

Not being birders we didn’t hold any special significance to the birds we sighted except the occasional, “wow, so pretty” which aptly described the extent of our knowledge about them. However the guide was quite knowledgeable and kept pointing out different birds to us as we passed them. We would’ve have probably not understood as much were we not surrounded by some birding enthusiasts who kept passing on what the guide was saying from the front and adding in a few pointers of their own. It was a lovely experience and increased our affinity towards bird watching however it’s safe to say neither of us has the patience to indulge in it as a full time hobby.

We were told that a female tiger had been sighted just the day before approaching the lake front for a drink but had scampered soon after and though we couldn’t be sure, it might’ve been the same tigress we had seen. The guide did concede that such sightings were rare and happened more in the summer months when the other local water sources inside the forest dried up. We waited impatiently for a chance sighting as a déjà vu to the previous evening but as they say, lightning does not strike the same place twice, and apparently neither does this tigress.

  We soon approached the extreme periphery of our safari as the sun began its downward journey seemingly in tandem with our trip. Our guides enthusiasm however showed no signs of dying as he pointed out bird after bird in the beautiful expanse of the lake. There were numerous trees in the middle of the lake, polished smooth and with rings of various shades of brown encircling it. Though the mystery behind the trees stayed in our mind till then, when we were told the reason behind the peculiarity first by the guide and then through the documentary at our lodge in the evening, it all clicked into place.

  The lake was formed as part of the Kabini reservoir after the river was dammed. Some of the trees previously on the banks of the river now became a part of the lake. The bark of the tree was softened in part by the wind as well as the ebb of the lakes water. The rings on the bark marked the various water levels during different seasons. The highest was just post the monsoons while the lowest signified the water level during the height of summers just before the monsoons arrived. As enticing as the story behind the trees is, the scene with the birds perched on the slender curving smooth trunks with the forest in the background highlighted with the rays of the dying sun colouring the billowy clouds with an array of shades of red, orange and pink.

  The sunset is indeed incomparable. We’ve been sunset chasers our entire life and we were amazed at the beautiful vista we were presented with and that should count for something. As the motorboat chugged back to our jetty we tried to take the scene all in, first with a photo every 10 seconds and then seeing the futility of capturing such a sight through a lens, we went about soaking it up in our souls as the birds chirped away our last few moments of what was indeed a magical evening.

The Boat Safari at Kabini – Bird watching & Sunset Catching The boat safari at Nagarhole National Park (Kabini) is a very different experience and is in no way inferior to the land safari which is often preferred due to the higher probability of sighting a big cat.

[gypsycouple]

Kaav Safari lodge is an aesthetically built property at the edge of the Nagarhole national park which is a quick weekend getaway from Bangalore (Bengaluru) in the southern part of India. The lodge is situated about 10 minutes drive from the government run Jungle Lodges where the safari’s take off from. As indicated by the name, the hotel aims to provide an authentic safari experience which it is more than able to provide.

Photo Credits | Kaav

As we approached the gates we were a bit put off by the wandering bovines and the adjacent farmlands. The relatively small lead up to the property did nothing to help our impression, although to be fair, we were made aware of the smallness of the property beforehand. All that changed the instance we got out of the car and we met up with Pavithra Kumar or PK as he is known as and indeed prefers to be called. With an arm outstretched and a warm smile to greet us, he was indeed just like the reviews had described him, warm and welcoming. The bungalow, if we may call it that has 4 rooms each adorned by small figurines of the beasts they are named after. We were the only guests and were allocated a room facing the forest boundary to give us a better access to alarm calls at night, however we heard or saw nothing remotely interesting so it might be a question of luck. It would however be more private than the rooms facing the pool which we thought had a much more pleasing view.

The rooms were big and spacious, the mattress comfy and soft and even for us coming from the fabulous Tamara, Coorg, we could see the room was very well designed. The bathrooms could have been a bit bigger though to be fair they are divided into the bath and toilet sections which might cause the illusion of smallness. The two wash basins for his & her were definitely a welcome addition as we’ve come to appreciate in some of the better designed hotels we’ve stayed at. The big flowy curtains opening to a patio facing the forest were probably the most beautiful feature of the room. All rooms open to a common sit out area and a bar/kitchenette area which incidentally is also a communal area where the evening wildlife films are shown. A flight of stairs also lead up to the observation deck which provides a great view of the forest. Although the only wildlife we saw were cows munching on some grass. However it can be a nice place to relax given how comfy the sofas seemed to be. The dining area is as pretty as it looks in the photos and that is saying something. A huge log for a table right next to the open kitchen was enough to set our stomachs racing and our cameras clicking.

The pool has a setting like none other, just below a sprawling banyan tree, definitely making it to our lust worthy pools list. The sundecks below the tree, the bamboo screen to keep off prying eyes and the infinity pool makes it a very picturesque scene even if you’re not up for a dip and just lazing around. The staff were diligent enough to keep the pool clean, removing the crawlies and leaves which might be blown onto the pool with sudden gusts of wind. The only thing we think could have been better was the ladder used to get into the pool. There was nothing wrong with it but the design just didn’t give the feeling of being very safe.

The food we had over the duration of our stay was quite simple but good nevertheless. The food we were served was predominantly Indian and were only asked for our preference on the first day for dinner. Being the only guests there we would’ve liked some options to choose from and probably some variety in the cuisines served. The sightings board sits right next to the meal area but wasn’t seemingly updated regularly given that it was blank when we had come in.

The Safari’s leave twice a day, once in the morning at 6 and then in the afternoon at 3.30 for a duration of 2-2.5 hours. We were taken by PK on the first day to the Jungle Lodges where everything was handled by him and all we had to do was park ourselves in the jeep allocated to us. We got seats in a jeep, which according to PK was quite lucky because normally guests from Kaav are allocated seats on the bigger buses given the smaller number (unless they’re running at capacity and have enough guests to fill up a jeep) Quite lucky for us indeed because we happened to catch not one but two tiger sightings and even managed to spot a leopard lurking next to our car.

You can read more about our safari experiences here.

The safari part was very well managed and it is a wonderful feeling to not worry about the details like payments which can frankly act as a dampener to the enthusiasm.

We were shown two wildlife movies on the two evenings we were at Kaav, both of them wonderful. We would’ve enjoyed a brief discussion on it post the screening but the feeling could be because we were the only ones seeing it. PK did show us his wildlife photography collection, shot over the years during his stint at bandipur and now kabini. If you’re staying there do remember to asking him to show you the pics.

We had gone for a nature walk but our guide had a bit of a language problem and wasn’t as educational an activity as we would’ve wanted it to be. Do request PK to accompany you on the walk if you really want to get something out of it, although it was a nice enough walk around the countryside even on its own.

PK had recommended we take a boat safari on the second day as it would be a nice complement to the land safari we had done and it was a brilliant decision. Chances of sighting the big cat are slim but you will sight enough birds, crocs and herbivores (including elephants at close quarters if you’re lucky) to keep you at the edge of your seat for the entire safari. If nothing else go for the picturesque sunset which alone was gorgeous enough to be the highlight of our boat safari.

The second night for us was in the luxury tent which is by far the better option if you have a choice, although it is a bit more expensive than the rooms but not enough to make you think twice about it. The only limitation is that there’s only 2 of them so are always in demand. The tents are put up on a platform and are in close proximity to the main bungalow which kinds of takes away the feel of roughing it up and instead levels up the glamping quotient, usually associated with such tents. However it also adds in an extra layer of protection from the various visitors from below the ground which may come visiting while we sleep.  The wooden floor, the antique lamps, the writing desk and the trunk, the tub which lay sprawling in the middle of the room, the his and hers wash basins everything comes together to create a beautiful fusion, making the room one of the most welcoming ones we’ve stayed at recently. One feature which wowed us was the ability to dim the light as per our requirements through a regulator by the bed, brilliant! We had just one night at the tent before it was time for us to leave but it was well worth the effort required to move rooms especially for such a short stay.

The lodge, is well deserving the reviews we read online or heard from friends who had the pleasure of staying there. The food options could be worked on a bit, but we found nothing wrong with the quality of food served, infact were quite pleased with the non-oily, mildly spicy nature of the food. Add to it the wonderful host PK, the luxurious tents and the beautiful pool setting and you’ve got a wonderful combination. The smallish nature of the property ensures that even at full capacity it will remain a small private gathering, ideal for a safari camp setting that it is. A bit on the expensive side for normal tourists but a wonderful option for those who understand its value.

  [Review] Kaav Safari Lodge – Wild simplicity Kaav Safari lodge is an aesthetically built property at the edge of the Nagarhole national park which is a quick weekend getaway from Bangalore (Bengaluru) in the southern part of India.

[gypsycouple]

A day of contrasts at the lake of fairies - Chandrataal

A day of contrasts at the lake of fairies – Chandrataal

As we lay down that night without a wink of sleep, the events of the day seemed to be someone else’s story. From disappointment to joy to deep contentment and awe, we had gone through a circle of contrasting emotions. Thinking back, maybe Chandrataal didn’t change its color and all we saw was our emotions reflected in it. “Bhaiyya Chai Piyoge?” Care for some tea? This would’ve sounded natural at…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

Travel in the times of terrorism

Travel in the times of terrorism

Yet another attack brings the same questions of why to the forefront. The senseless acts of terrorism is a crime against humanity not only because it causes death and hurt the physical sense but that in so many other intangible things. The death of trust against a race/caste or creed associated with the act, the death of openness and warm welcomes to strangers and most importantly for us it hurts…

View On WordPress

[gypsycouple]

Nagarhole National Park at the Kabini backwaters is one of the finest Tiger reserves in the country and the excitement of seeing a tiger in the wild here for the first time is only eclipsed by seeing it twice on the same safari. That it was our first tiger safari in India makes it even more special, beginners luck or not. However you will find this wasn’t the only highlight of our trip to Nagarhole Tiger Reserve, Kabini as we show you why you should consider taking your next safari here.

Enroute to Jungle Lodges for our Safari

You can spot the lake from miles away as the mountains in the backdrop and the vivid cloud formations on the clear blue sky is beautiful enough to make you smile. Our safari was one without anticipation. One simply do not spot anything worthwhile on their first safari, it’s an unsaid rule which we had been made aware of multiple times. A few deer perhaps if the gods are benevolent but the truth of the matter remains that you will need a rite of passage, a few frustrating safaris under your belt perhaps,to be able to see something worth sharing. All around us wildlife enthusiasts, wannabe photographers and amateurs alike came with jumbo sized telescopic lenses and high end super zoom cameras with the sole intention of capturing a wild beast in action. There was a big chance we would be shuttled in with solo wanderers in a rickety bus which looked incapable to keeping up with the safari jeeps, thus ruining even the bleak possibility of a chance capture. However by luck or chance or fate we were allocated a jeep which had a budding wildlife photographer, two wildlife enthusiast couples and a guide who was supposedly one of the best spotters in the convoy! We were getting a little hopeful now.

The protective parents tried to shield the baby from our cameras till the very end

We saw a small herd of elephants feeding almost as soon as we entered the forest and then a few birds and deer, none of them exciting enough for some hold on to your seats excitement, but fun nonetheless.

Finally managed to get a shot of the little one

We were looking at our watches trying to figure out how much time was left and the probability of us managing to catch a sighting in the remaining time. Just then we heard an alarm call. Normally Chitals are an easily scared species and starts giving panic calls even if it catches a whiff of a predator. A second alarm call alerted us to the possibility that a predator was near and we rushed to a herd of chitals where the calls were presumably coming from. Then it was a waiting game. A few jeeps joined us and then soon left to try their luck elsewhere as the uneasy silence around us threatened to stifle us. Suddenly the deers started bounding away and making frantic screams as a faint roar reached our ears.

The princess as she roars to scare off the chital

Tiger!! Within minutes, it ambled on the dirt road in front of us with a swinging gait, roaring at the assembled herd of chitals and then walked away slowly as if without a care in the world. The scene was over before we knew it and it was just beginning to sink in. A tiger sighting in the first safari wasn’t unheard of, but was rare enough to be given a couple of pats on the back as if our luck was an achievement of sorts. It sure felt that way though. The tigress was supposedly called the princess by regulars because she is the rumored offspring of a kabini backwater tigress and Matigudi a popular male tiger in the area. She sure was beautiful befitting her royal nickname.

Her dancing gait reminded us a bit of simba from the lion king dancing to hakuna matata

We then rushed to the nearest watering hole on the opposite side where there was a high possibility of her exiting. The weather was hot and dry and the princess would be thirsty for sure.

Giant Malabar Squirrel

We waited and waited at a good vantage point and then some more and finally left. We had stopped to take a picture of the Malabar giant squirrel, the biggest of its species, when we received an urgent call from a fellow driver/guide saying that the tigress was headed towards the watering hole and we sped back.

Photo Credit | Abhiroop Wildlife Photography who was with us on the safari

Right in time! As our car settled in its place the princess bounded out from its hiding place and looked ahead with its chin up, giving the image of a self confident and maybe a little haughty royal giving a pose for the royal painter. And boy did we paint! There would’ve been thousands of clicks in the short time that the princess took to cross the road as the entire battery of cars and their occupants took to capture what surely would be a prized click among their collection. That even our relatively puny camera got away with some wonderful clicks should say something about the opportunity. Evidently the tigress was scared off by the safari boats circling the area and was diverted towards us. Their loss was our gain.

Photo Credit | Abhiroop Wildlife Photography who was with us on the safari

We were excited beyond reason by this time and were getting greedy beyond limits, a leopard and dhole sightings will complete this safari we said. Having a leopard sighting with a tiger sighting is even rarer because leopards are scared of the bigger predator and will stay away and a dhole pack even more so. We decided to wait at another frequented spot by the lake but we would be asking the Gods for too much.

Safari Jeep against the sunset

The sunset however was beautiful. A dried husk of a tree, the setting sun, the golden clouds, the pink sky with overtones of various colours looking much like a rainbow itself. It wasn’t easy to eclipse the sightings but this sight came pretty close, the peaceful serenity complementing well the adrenalin rush of sometime back. We were pretty happy with our safari as we made our way back to the Jungle Lodges where all the safaris are organized.

The sky turned colorful at sunset much to our delight

Some of us were discussing their previous safaris when suddenly someone shouted “woh kya hai?”, “what is that” pointing a yellow streak beside our car. As our jeep screeched to a halt, the yellow streak transformed into a leopard who changed direction midway and bounded off into the forest. All of this happened so fast that we were quite unable to get off a clear shot. That disappointed the ones with the missile launcher shaped lenses; we were very happy we had gotten to see the leopard in the first place.

A sunset panaroma while we were waiting for a 3rd encounter

We have done a few safari’s in Africa and though the feeling of excitement remains the same given the huge element of chance in sighting any of the big cats, it was a different experience here in Nagarhole, Kabini. Somehow, because the lower number of jeeps allowed in, the absence of walkie talkies to improve coordination & heighten the chances of sightings and the relatively shy cats in the forest vis-à-vis say a Ranthambore or Kanha, this felt natural. Safaris should not be taken with confirmed sightings in mind, there’s zoos for that. Given the man animal conflict at the ever receding fringes of the forests, the animal numbers are getting smaller by the day which means there might not be enough tigers left in the wild for our grandchildren to enjoy. Hopefully we as a nation will stand with our forests and its protectors, the animals and ensure that the picture of the tiger taken by this generation does not have a wreath on it as it adorns the living room for our future generations.

Factfile:

Kabini is a 5 hour drive from Bangalore and about 1.5 hours from Mysore city. Connectivity is infrequent and it is recommended to bring your own conveyance.

Nagarhole National Park is separated from Bandipur National Park by the Kabini Reservoir and together with the Mudumalai National Park & Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary is the largest protected region in Southern India.

Nagarhole National Park has three main predators – Bengal Tiger, Leopard & Dhole (Asiatic wild dogs) which feed on herbivores like Chital (spotted deer), sambar deer and gaur (Indian bison) which are found in great numbers. The elephants can also be seen in great numbers though Bandipur National Park holds the distinction of the highest density of wild elephants in the country.

All safaris are organized by the government run Jungle Lodges, which is a good option for budget accommodation.

Safari’s are of two kinds, Land & Water, both organized twice a day. Every safari has a fixed number of vehicles/boats allowed so its prudent to book in advance during high season.

We stayed at KAAV Safari Lodges which replicates an authentic jungle lodge feel being situated right at the edge of forest, but in a cradle of luxury.

Some more photos of our safari

How we spotted a Tiger twice at Kabini backwaters Nagarhole National Park at the Kabini backwaters is one of the finest Tiger reserves in the country and the excitement of seeing a tiger in the wild here for the first time is only eclipsed by seeing it twice on the same safari.