huzunra // perfumery blog

olfactory impressions

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Aoud Café by Mancera

Aoud Café by Mancera

Aoud Café by Mancera Aoud Cafe by Mancera opens up with a whiff of coffee, but clearly artificial one. It does not come across to me as sufficiently sophisticated for a perfume. It would work well as the room perfume / air refresher, but it lacks the magic for a personal perfume. Coffee is a fleeting compound and it quickly flies by, so much of the perfumery mastery in composing the coffee…

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Cedres de Thé & Tea Tonique

Cedres de Thé by Phaedon

The perfume woos you into a delicate, pale coloured (reminiscent of olive green) green tea, with just a dash of shimmery summer day. What is perhaps a little surprising, Cedres de Théis not a crispy and chirpy fragrance, but at least on my skin, turns out to be more like a light myrrh-infused dry-aired whisper, well supported by a peppery and granular texture. Rather…

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Light My Fire By Kilian

Sweet smoke? Almost like a caramel burnt, on a doubled-faced honey coin...

Light My fire By Kilian, 2014 Nose: Sidonie Lancesseur Light My Fire Perfume By Kilian

Sweet smoke? Almost like a caramel burnt, on a doubled-faced honey coin. Once the first sticky-sugary facets start waning down, more complexity begins to pierce through, primarily through the subtle traces of cumin. Light My Fireperfume is thick, slow, dense, and dark for now. Well, hardly a surprise, if to…

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L'Oiseau de Nuit by Parfumerie Générale

Ha! Well, somehow L'Oiseau de Nuit begins for me from the end: with an intense whiff of benzoin sweetness. It is big, it is loud, it is…

L’Oiseau de Nuit Parfumerie Générale, 2009 Nose: Pierre Guillaume L’Oiseau de Nuit by Parfumerie Generale

Ha! Well, somehow L’Oiseau de Nuitbegins for me from the end: with an intense whiff of benzoin sweetness. It is big, it is loud, it is… well benzoin! I am all curious of the take cistus labdanum will take here. I love cistus for the ability to playfully add some animalic undertones in the…

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Otis & Me by Jazmin Seraï

Otis & Me Jazmin Seraï, 2014 Nose: Dana El Masri Otis & Me by Jazmin Seraï

A magnificent blast of cardamom, black pepper and bergamot is a nose-catcher; perfectly balanced all there ingredients, like three graces, they dance in harmoniously ornate an accord.

Distanced and dry, yet not cold and scary.

After a short while Otis & Me perfume meanders elsewhere, and as it is making its way up to my…

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Berlin in Winter, Baruti, 2015 Warm and rich, cozy and comforting, wooly-thick oranges and maroons and lavenders, in deep, darker shades, touched with coffee and rose and resins, reminiscent of 'perfume oils' - that is how Berlin in Winter welcomes you upon its kingdom. Captivating and pleasant, immediately inducing the familiar feel, helping to relax tense muscles in awaiting of the fragrance attacks of the new perfume… Do I value this reassuring perfume composition? Or do I want an olfactory adventure in the - tried and tested, often tired - land of 'rich-and-warm-orientals'? Yes, and yes, or… It boils down to the mood of the moment, of one's particular mindset: what are you looking for right now? Sometimes we choose to walk a well trotted perfume path, coiled in the shawl of easily recognizable olfactory themes. At other occasions, we crave that moment of being arrested by the unexpectedness of the perfumery calling, that shout oozing from the bottle onto your body, and shaking you in the 'WOW!' moment. Panta rhei! (Gr.): nothing is settled, everything flows…, even thought Berlin in Winter is rather 'linear' perfume, without any major gear shifting or twists between the head, heart, and base stages. My impression was that in the early moments coffee was a little more pronounced, while a little later an excellently blended accord of lavender, myrrh, and leather plays more central role in bringing all the notes together. Towards the dry-down, the lavender-leather pin it all together. All the same, these seem to me a welcomed fluctuations than developments in the fragrance's lifespan. Baruti's perfume gets your body and senses to slow down: the world around melts into resinous stillness of winter seen from behind the stained glass of fireplace-warmed interiors. #Baruti #BerlinInWinter #IndigoRMX #SpyrosDrosopoulos #NichePerfumes #Perfume #Fragrance #Parfum #PerfumeReview #FragranceReviews #PerfumeBlog #PerfumeLover #ScentOfTheDay #PerfumeCollection #Olfaction #Scent #Parfumerie #Spicy #Autumnal #WinterPerfumes #WinterEvenings #Nooud #OrientalPerfumes #GourmandPerfumes

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Berlin in Winter by Baruti

Warm and rich, cozy and comforting, wooly-thick oranges and maroons and lavenders, in deep, darker shades, touched with coffee and rose and resins, reminiscent of 'perfume oils' - that is how Berlin in Winter welcomes you upon its kingdom...

Berlin in Winter Baruti, 2015 Nose: Spyros Drosopoulos

Berlin in Winter by Baruti

Warm and rich, cozy and comforting, wooly-thick oranges and maroons and lavenders, in deep, darker shades, touched with coffee and rose and resins, reminiscent of ‘perfume oils’ – that is how Berlin in Winterwelcomes you upon its kingdom. Captivating and pleasant, immediately inducing the familiar feel, helping to…

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Vanilla Flash by Tauerville

Vanilla Flash by Tauerville

Vanilla Flash Tauerville / Tauer Perfumes, 2015 Nose: Andy Tauer

Vanilla Flash Perfume by Tauerville

Unrushed, the perfume begins on agreeable and well-coordinated accord of rose, bourbon vanilla, and a couple of minutes and few sniffs later, light scent of tobacco arrives to support Vanilla Flash perfume. Gratifying, indeed. The notes are skilfully blended and infused with high-voltage liquor.…

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Une Belle Journée by Paul Emilien

The first whiffs that hit my nose are those of peppery flower rose, with quite intriguing and nicely captivating the attention, plastic tonalities.

Une Belle Journée Paul Emilien, 2014 Nose: Patric Bodifée

Une Belle Journée by Paul Emilien

The first whiffs that hit my nose are those of peppery flower rose, with quite intriguing and nicely captivating the attention, plastic tonalities. I would think that they would develop eventually into something of a leather quality, pleasantly cold-smelling texture of the new leather canvas. Let’s see if…

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Amber Flash by Tauerville

My first impressions of the perfume are of honey, dense and thick, sticky and gooey in the jar… Honey from woods, definitely, darker in olfactory and colour palette. And it has that soft unpolished sensation that red wine tannin leaves on the tongue… Not too strong, not acrid or bitter, somehow just not glossy-glanz…

Amber Flash Tauerville, 2015 Nose: Andy Tauer

Amber Flash Perfume by Tauerville

My first impressions of the perfume are of honey, dense and thick, sticky and gooey in the jar… Honey from woods, definitely, darker in olfactory and colour palette. And it has that soft unpolished sensation that red wine tannin leaves on the tongue… Not too strong, not acrid or bitter, somehow just not…

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Bond No. 9 Signature Scent

Rose Oud. No more, no less; but is it enough?

Bond No. 9 Signature Scent Perfume Bond No. 9, 2009 Nose: Laurent Le Guernec

Bond No. 9

Rose Oud. No more, no less; but is it enough? Quite the similar approach as one in my preferred Rose d’Arabie in Armani Privée collection of olfactory creations. However, in comparison, Bond No. 9 Perfumeis for me… well, just less… Less opulent, less extrovert, less over the top, less…

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'Perfume must smell nice'

“Perfume must smell nice” she says; nothing else, no elaborate descriptions or considerations, no frills or buffooneries. It is either nice, or not nice (to your nose), and that’s it. Simple, clear, affective and not over-intellectualised.

Perfume Musings

“Perfume must smell nice” she says; nothing else, no elaborate descriptions or considerations, no frills or buffooneries. It is either nice, or not nice (to your nose), and that’s it. Simple, clear, affective and not over-intellectualised.

I like this about her, and sometimes I crave being alike… Unfortunately, I am not: always too brainy, always digging and trying to ‘undo’…

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Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermès

Verrrry! Intriguing, bitter… Amarone, if I may, for there is a delightful nuance of full-bodied matté texture sensation in this cologne.

Eau de Gentiane Blanche Hermès, 2009 Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena

Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermes

Verrrry! Intriguing, bitter… Amaro, if I may, for there is a delightful nuance of full-bodied matté texture sensation in this cologne. Just like that exquisite sensation on your tongue, left by rich and mature red wine… Velvety is the word that sometimes is used to describe that feeling; although to…

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Silvan by Rouge Bunny Rouge

Mmmm, teasing…!! And tempting! Juniper with pepper is a wonderful combination here, lifted up by grapefruit notes for the welcoming opening. Juniper as cedarwood - that kind of inky woodiness… (A little surprising to have that base into the head! But hey! I am not to complain about that nice twist!)

Silvan Rouge Bunny Rouge, 2013 Nose: ?

Silvan Perfume by Rouge Bunny Rouge

Mmmm, teasing…!! And tempting! Juniper with pepper is a wonderful combination here, lifted up by grapefruit notes for the welcoming opening. Juniper as cedarwood – that kind of inky woodiness… (A little surprising to have that base into the head! But hey! I am not to complain about that nice twist!)

Urghh… The opening does…

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This Tasi Taggi incense is like a foundation: simple, clear and easy, stable and predictable; exactly all the best qualities of any foundations. Tasi Taggi burns into simple wood fumes, perhaps with some black peppery ‘astringent’ facets offering a sharp, spiky drill in the nose, if you get it too close to the incandescent stick. Tasi Taggi Type: zimpu (ritual incense) Producer: Sumati Padma, Nepal, Tibet I’m drawn to start like this: something woodsy and dusty, as if just taken out from the pantry cellar… Or perhaps not a cellar, for they tend to be more stony cold and misty dump.

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Vetiver by Lorenzo Villoresi

The air is filling up with the cold and dump cellar scent, dense and dark, and full of wet earth and dark soil tonalities. OK, I'm in! You have my attention! I am totally drawn and curious to see where this Vetiver will take me for a ride!

Vetiver Lorenzo Villoresi, 1994 Nose: Lorenzo Villoresi

Vetiver Perfume by Lorenzo Villorezi

Hmmm… The air is filling up with the cold and dump cellar scent, dense and dark, and full of wet earth and dark soil tonalities. OK, I’m in! You have my attention! I am totally drawn and curious to see where this Vetiver will take me for a ride!

I guess I’m taken aback and positively surprised !…

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Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne

The first airy whiffs are of orange, like a dust from underneath a foot beating the trail of dry earth. Then neroli. And peeled skin of an orange tree cortex.

Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne Atelier Cologne, 2010 Nose: Jerome Epinette

Trèfle Pur Perfume by Atelier Cologne

The first airy whiffs are of orange, like a dust from underneath a foot beating the trail of dry earth. Then neroli. And peeled skin of an orange tree cortex. I mean, that greenish but pale’ish element, somewhere between the soft flexibility of a young, greener bark that gets more pale…

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