the Bridge Kingdom: Dust Jacket art - JJcanvas
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the Bridge Kingdom: Dust Jacket art - JJcanvas
Monster: Mandrake (CR 2, Medium Plant)
The mandrake is a twisted mass of roots and vines that moves like a drake, a patient and territorial predator born from the soil where dragons have been slain. It ambushes its prey with a piercing shriek and snapping jaws before dragging them into the earth.
I've always felt that plant creatures are among the most underrated monsters in D&D, so I designed this one to be resilient but still hit hard in the early levels of a campaign. Drop a mandrake in a dark forest or overgrown ruin to catch your players off guard. You could even build it into a larger arc, introducing a dragon-type variant of the mandrake with a higher CR as a major boss encounter later on.
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💎 𝗡𝗲𝘄 𝗶𝘁𝗲𝗺! Raven’s Mask Wondrous item, uncommon ___ This leathery mask rests magically over your nose and mouth. The mask creates a raven-like beak over top of your mouth, which can remain closed or move with you while you speak (your choice each time). The mask weighs 1 pound, but feels weightless on your face. You can don or doff the mask using an action. While wearing the mask, you have advantage on saving throws made against harmful gases and vapors (such as “cloudkill,” inhaled poisons, and the breath weapons of some dragons). You can’t become diseased by these effects, and you automatically succeed on saving throws to resist the “stinking cloud” spell. In addition, while wearing the mask, ravens and similar birds (such as crows and magpies) can understand the meaning of your words, though you have no special ability to understand them in return. ___ ✨ Patrons get huge perks! Access this and hundreds of other item cards, art files, and compendium entries when you support The Griffon’s Saddlebag on Patreon for as little as $3 a month!
Another 40 Texians done for the 1830s, Texas Revolution and the pre- and post-revolution skirmishes, all of these 28mm Old Glory figures. Working on a scenario to test in Sharp Practice and Rebels and Patriots.
Another poster to print for the ruined walls in postapocalyptic miniature terrain
HELP! I just got some of these guys. I've been wanting to paint up skeletons for a while and I got some now. Only problem is, I can't seem to glue these guys together. They're so small and no glue I used can hold them together.
I have loctite and gorilla glue.
Does anyone have any experience with these skeletons? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Preferably any that doesn't involve using Tamiya extra thin.
I don’t have any figures of this brand, but if the parts are typical polystyrene (“hard plastic”) on a sprue, I prefer to use a plastic model cement, which actually is a solvent that fuses polystyrene parts together. I have an old tube of Testor’s that is low odor and safe to use. I haven’t used Tamiya Extra Thin but I think it’s something similar and highly recommended by many.
But a good superglue gel (cyanoacrylate) like Gorilla Glue brand superglue gel should work as well. Some people prefer it over the solvent cement since it sets faster and parts won’t sag, but I like the brief extra working time to correct alignment with the plastic cement.
Mordheim’s finest pub
Der Spiegel menschlicher Behältnis, 1476
Poster seen on a Mordheim street
Welcome, Traveller, you have found the science fiction roleplaying game of the far future! This package of free PDFs is an introduction to t
Free intro rules for Mongoose Traveller plus 2 adventures
Maximilian Thieme – The Bride of Visbek
http://www.onepagedungeon.info/
One more for the scratchbuilt 1/72nd scale CV-6 USS Enterprise. Amazing work.
Oshkosh 2024
Had to do a double take at that scale before I saw the whole video.
1830s Mexican infantry in summer fatigues and shako covers; 28mm metals from Brigade Games' Boot Hill Miniatures line, individually based for Sharp Practice, Rebels and Patriots, etc
OSR B/X Character Sheet Find more on my YouTube @mstephenjoy
A blank Hex Sheet For Your ttrpg Find more on my YouTube @mstephenjoy
HMS Victory's gun ports, photo by Final Approach
A gun port is a square hole which is cut in the hull through which the cannons/ guns were fired. Each had its own port, and they lined the gun-decks at the height of the gun's muzzle, being closed with a port-lid, hinged on the top, when not in use.
Early gunports, placed directly below each other (e.g. on the galleon Great Harry of 1514). But depictions from the 1520s already show the staggered arrangement. This reduced the stress on the ship's hull caused by the recoil.
Until the Revolutionary War with France (1793–1801) the outside of the port-lid in the British Navy was painted the same colour as the outside of the ship; the inside was red, as also were the sides of the ship and, in a few cases, a strip of the gun-decks in the vicinity of the guns as well. The reason for this, it was said, was that any blood spilled in action would not show against the red paint and would therefore not have a depressing effect on the gun crews.
USS Constitution' s gun ports (x)
Later the fashion changed, and port-lids were painted in contrasting colours on the outside, usually black against white or yellow with the gun-decks. This was known in the British Navy as ‘Nelson chequer" , and was introduced around 1805 when Nelson fought the battle of Trafalgar. This gave the familiar chequer pattern of British ships of the line. At about the same time, the inside colour was changed to yellow. Since the War of 1812, the general ship colour scheme changed to black and white the colour scheme of American ships. And as paint became more and more expensive, the Royal Navy simply kept this colour scheme.
But beware not every gun port was a real one, especially larger merchant vessels like the India Companies painted gunports on their ships to suggest that it was a warship and not a merchant ship.
Model painting notes
Automobile Club De France, 1901 Georges Antoine Rochegrosse
Reminder to try printing a 2cm poster for a wall of 28mm scale terrain