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@justpickupthatpen
Turned today’s study into a messy little guide!
I get asked about this almost every day, and it’s always impossible to respond as an ask, so here you go .3. This is how I scan and clean my stuffs.
How to edit traditional art for social media
Being a mainly traditional artist myself it always irks me a little when I see sketches or even full illustrations being posted without any proper editing, making for a terrible presentation of an otherwise great piece.
So here are my tips for making your art not look shit in just a few easy steps.
You don´t need a fancy scanner for this, but if you have a digital camera at home I´d recommed you to use that instead of your smartphone. (However smartphone photos are also okay! Use whatever you have on hand)
Take a photo of your piece during the day in ambient lighting and try to make the paper lie as flat as possible. Avoid direct sunlight and artificial light as both will lower the quality of the picture. The inital photo will look something like this:
Not exactly breath-taking, huh? but don´t worry, we´ll get this prettied up.
Open the photo on your computer and turn + crop it
For the following editing I use Adobe Photoshop CS2, which is legally available as a free download, so there really is no reason not to get it. It comes with everything you´ll need for the edit.
(Unfortunately I have it set to German but I did my best to make my steps understandable)
Now, let´s get on with the edit! Select “Image” (Bild) in the top bar, go to “Adjustments” and first of all set the “Saturation” to zero (if you have a black and white drawing)
After that, pick “Brightness and Contrast” (also found in “Image” –> “Adjustments”) to brighten up your piece some more
Aleardy much better, hm? But as you can see, the bottom-left corner of the image is quite a lot brighter than the upper-right one, which prevents you from getting an even result.
Thankfully, this problem is easy to fix.
This way you can even out the brightness of the overall piece and finally use the “Brightness” and “Contrast” sliders one last time to get a clean result
This is already pretty good, but if you want to go the extra mile, you can use the eraser tool as well as filters (such as the liquify tool and sharpness) to remove little sketchy lines or fix small mistakes (classic example: adjust the position of the eyes to make them look more symmetrical)
And that´s it! With just about 5 - 10 minutes of editing you can get your drawing to look clean and presentable! (Coloured illustrations are usually easier to edit, just play around with “Brightness”, “Contrast”, “Color Balance” and “Saturation” until you manage to emulate the original look of the piece.)
I hope that this tutorial will help you level up your own editing from now on. Play around with new settings and see what works; you might discover even more useful options in the future!
By magenta-moop
hello strawpage anon my sketches literally look like this im not sure i can help you😭😭😭
but alr lol. as you can PROBABLY tell just by looking at these its mostly breaking the body down into shapes. Most artists tell you to draw boxes or whatever the fuck but we're not made of boxes we're made of stupid ovals and cirkels and rounded trapezoids and whatever tf. heres a basic runthrough
i just found this white guy on my pinterest and i think he's cool so let's try to draw him.
if i roughly trace guidelines over him, these are my shapes I end up with. For instance, for the torso i use this weird, curved trapezoid with a thing sticking out shape. Whether you're drawing a man or a woman the chest will protrude, and for women drawing the protrusion also helps me estimate where to place the breasts.
mostly what simplifying the form down like this does for me is it makes humans a LOT easier to imagine in perspective. if I want to draw the body in perspective, it's much easier to rearrange these basic shapes and work from there rather than trying to start with details
similarly, if i wanna draw this guy, it's much easier for me to construct him and redraw from the shapes that i see (especially when NOT tracing over the image, starting off with just shapes helps me nail a pose down pretty much 100% of the time, because i can easily move them around and i can easily get ratios and proportions correct). With a bit of studying the human body and a bit of anatomical knowledge (cant escape this one no matter how bad you wanna), i can easily draw the rest of his body from here within just a couple minutes
otherwise, a big thing i see people making mistakes in is proportions!! Keep in mind simple things like: eyes should be approximately the length of one eye apart from each other; upper arms and forearms (and upper legs and lower legs) are roughly the same length; the waist is the center of the body, dividing you into two equal halves that should be approximately the same length; your hands reach your mid-thigh when your arms are down; your hands are the same size as your face; etc, etc. Use references to practice this stuff! It probably sounds tiring as hell, but when I'm drawing i'm constantly thinking things like "oh, collarbones are this far apart and attach to here" or "shoulders protrude slightly, let me draw a line for that" or "the jaw should be lower, since this character has their mouth open" etcetera enzovoort enzovoort. Ultimate price to pay in order to understand anatomy
Keep in mind to draw organic shapes for the body, if not in your sketch/guidelines then at least in your final render. Depending on your style strong, sharp lines can look really good!! but regardless dynamicism is important, and these styles are typically harder to execute because they're working with stiff shapes. If you're drawing a form of semirealism/stylised realism, where i consider my own art to lie, then these rounded, soft shapes for the body are important.
i personally take note of naturally forming curves on the body and exaggerate them for the sake of stylisation, like this for the arms
or like this for the legs
(i also do this for the torso in order to make the pose more dynamic, which is harder to see with the finished piece through his clothes, but easier to see in my original sketch. The waist is an easy way to make a pose look more dynamic, and therefore a good target for stylisation)
Regardless of your endgoal or dream style, studying accurate, realistic anatomy first is most important, then finding a way to simplify it into basic shapes that make sense to you (i am probably in the minority for how i draw these shapes. I see many artists online using either boxes, cylinders, ovals, you name it. It doesn't matter what your sketch looks like so long as you can make sense out of it and add to it in your lineart fase, so any easy to rotate shapes that make the body simpler to draw works!), and then apply your learned anatomy on top of these shapes to draw accurate, proportionate bodies.
I hit 1k subscribers right in time for my fourth tutorial! 🎉🎉 Thank you so much for your support in my other tutorials it really means a lot! I'll soon post a giveaway to celebrate all this so keep an eye out if you're interested!👀
I hope this helps some of you in your art journey and I hope it's well articulated 😩🤞. Anatomy is hard to explain so feel free to send me some ask if you'd like me to elaborate more.
IV DONE IT
I know my science sides been kinda dead but I was getting so frustrated trying to differentiate all artistes 'avians'
...that's it, please use freely and don't feel the need to credit me, JUST USE.
It'll be fun to see artist's look at their avian OCS and go *That's you bud! See?*
Adding this because I forgor
How do you draw a body in tfa??? Please show tutorial
I'll be so honest, There's no one way to draw tfa bodies, they're all so different than each other, but this is my best attempt at explaining
Key things:
Exaggerate! make them shapes either BIG or small, no inbetween
Keep it simple! Everyone's just a bunch of shapes at the end of the day
If you're making an oc you'll have to keep in mind things like wheel placement (I don't, I just copy the show alallalala) so try to think of HOW they transform when placing car details.
ok so this is another long shot but a few years ago there was a twitter post (in japanese i think?) that had measurememts for how to make this book stand thing out of cardboard that you could use to double up books and use up more space on shelves
back then i made a bunch of these but by now i lost the pic and dont know how to find the original post anymore
if it comes down to it i can just take one apart and get the measurements from there but i would be very grateful if anyone happens to have the original post or something similar??
don't mind how long it's been since i made this post, anyway i realized that i don't even need to take one apart to get the measurements when i can literally just unfold it and refold it /FACEPALM
so anyway here is the diagram for anyone else who is interested!!
this requires pretty big carboard pieces, if you have a really big box or something you can make it from one piece, but if you don't, you can also just make each of the pieces individually and then tape them together
and then in the end you put it together like this!!
and then when you make a bunch you can put them all next to each other and stack your books like crazy
EVERYONE START GETTING MORE USE OUT OF YOUR SPACE NOW!!!!
Backlight is one of the most strikinglighting effectsin art. Created by a light sourceshining from ...
FLY is a story about a boy who gets a second chance. Help his story take flight June 9th 11am EST on Kickstarter. Thank you for being the wind beneath my wings I hope this story lifts the world to a brighter place.
A coming of age story about Black kids who finally have power to fight back against systems designed against them.
HOW TO USE BLENDING MODES
OKAY SO I KNOW A LOT OF PEOPLE ALREADY KNOW THIS BUT THIS IS FOR THOSE WHO DON’T
I know a lot of people who feel like they need to black or dark colors for shading and white/really light colors for highlights on their digital art, but this isn’t the case! There’s a feature on most painting programs (SAI, Photoshop, Manga Studio, and to some extent FireAlpaca) called blending modes that can help you if you want to try different colors for shading and highlights.
For this drawing, I’ve done the shading in a bright pink on a separate layer from the coloring.
There’s a menu above the layer list that says “Normal.” If you click on that, it expands to reveal several other things.
(this should look about the same for most programs)
In that list of options, there is one called Multiply. I like to use that for shading, so let’s click that one.
It made the pink blend with the layers below it differently, and it’s much darker and a lot more intense than simply using black would have been.
Mulitiply and Linear Burn are best for shading. Color Burn works, but it doesn’t show up on pure white. There are plenty of options, though, so don’t be afraid to try them!
You can also use blending modes for highlights. I like to use Soft Light, Add/Add (Glow), Hard Light, and Overlay for that. Screen and Lighten work pretty well, too.
Here i have the highlights in a light yellow (but not super light):
And here they are on Soft Light!:
There are lots of really wacky blending modes too, like Difference and Divide, that you can play around with too!
I hope this helped someone out there!
i made this to help out someone who was having trouble with palettes and picking colors! maybe it’ll help you guys out too (I hope so anyway)
i really want to try making little clay sculpts but i dont know how to start. what kind of clay do you use and do you fire them in a kitchen oven or do you use a kiln? what kind of paint do you use and do you paint them before or after firing? is there anything i should know about making little clay guys?
i use stoneware! i rent a little studio w a few other people with kiln access so thats how i fire my stuff. i wouldnt rec using your oven...a regular kitchen oven doesnt go nearly as hot as you need for clay. though ive seen these "hacks" that essentially are tiny kilns for home use, the results will be inconsistent and its also more dangerous. ideally theres a kiln service near you you can use!
for underglaze tips i recc kness's guide here, this is what the "paint" is for using on clay. usually you'd do a bisque fire first for greenware, and then you can use underglaze on the bisque (you can also do underglaze at the greenware stage, its mostly up to preference). underglaze is typically used for high detailed/illustrative pts and the glaze is typically used after underglaze for the finishing smooth texture (also comes in many types of patterns and finishes). some people skip underglaze and go straight for glaze, but its important to know that they fire at different temps.
i got a lot of my info on reddit and my studio peers so i highly recc checking w other people/resources if youre ever unsure about anything :-) clay had a bit of a learning curve but its also very forgiving