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[wafflepatterns]

Free Flap Pocket pattern and Tutorial

Here is a Free pattern with step by step instruction for Slanted flap pockets! It’s perfect for the Yuzu raglan coat and the Pepernoot hooded coat patterns. Sewing flap pockets takes time and patience, but it is totally worthy and adds professional look on your coat! Off course, you can use this pattern for any other suitable jacket/coat patterns. Download Free Flap Pocket Sewing Pattern here!

How to sew the Slanted Flap Pocket

 << Cut Fabric / Interfacing >>

Cut the parts as the pattern indication. (Be careful the photo shows only right side parts, please double them for L/R sides pockets). Put interfacing on the Placket and the Flap (outside) parts.

  << Marking >>

1. Mark the pocket placement on the Bodice. (You can find the template in the downloaded pattern)  The upper line is for the Flap and the under line is for the placket. If you’ll make Yuzu coat, you can use the Pocket A’s outside line as the flap place. Put interfacing on the placement of the wrong side of the bodice. (For the sample in the photo, I use a square fabric piece instead of the bodice for the explanation.)

2. Mark the stitch line on the placket, press and crease the fold line before stitching.

  << Making flap >>

1. Place the outside and inside flap pieces right sides together. Sew the outline keeping open the upper seam. Trim 0.6 cm ( ≈1/4”) width the allowance of the inside. 2. Turn it right side out. Topstitch from the right side. Baste the open side.

  << Stitch placket and Flap >>

1. Place the Placket onto the placket place of the bodice right sides together, matching the markings. Sew the stitch line. 2. Place the flap onto the flap place of the bodice, matching the markings and stitch. The inside flap faces up. Don’t sew the placket.

  << Cut slit on bodice >>

1. Flip the Placket and the Flap and cut a slit on the Bodice as shown. Get close to the corner, but be careful not to cut into the stitching.

  << Shape Placket and Flap >>

1. Push the Placket to the wrong side of the Bodice through the slit. Turn it to the wrong side. Open and press the inside seam and the triangle shaped seams. 2. Fold and press the placket on the fold line.

3. Turn it to the right side. Baste on the stitch line of the placket. 4. The wrong side facing, turn over the bodice. Stitch the placket and the seam.

5. Push the seam allowance of the Flap to the wrong side through the cut line. Press and shape.

  <<Pocket Pouch >>

1. Place the Pocket Pouch Front onto the Placket right sides together like the pic and stitch. Press the seam to the Pocket Pouch side. 2. Place the Pocket Pouch back and the Facing right sides together like and stitch. Press the seam to the Pocket Pouch side.

3. They will be like this.

  << Fix Pocket Pouch Pieces >>

1. Put the Pocket Pouch Back onto the Pocket Pouch Front and pin. *Depend on your fabric thickness, the parts might not line up correctly. Put on naturally avoiding wrinkles or warps.

2. Turn it to the right side. Flip the bodice and stitch together the Facing, the Flap and the seam allowance through all 3 layers. Be careful not to stitch the placket.

3. Double stitch the front and back Pocket Pouch pieces. Sew the triangle shaped seams, too.

  << Finishing >>

1. Make short top stitches on the both side of the flap. Put button if you need.

***** Voila! ******

If you have any questions about the pattern and instruction, please contact me. If you put your photos of your creation from my patterns on your blog or other media, please share with Waffle Pattern’s address and don’t forget #wafflepatterns on the SNSs!

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[kayerye]

The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet  |  Coletterie

Looks like a good place to start.

[kayerye]

Sewing a collar with collar stand. Walkthrough with tips.

[kayerye]

This one was tough, because I tend to just buy anything that is cheap and kind-of fits, whether or not I ‘like’ it. Shopping is the Actual Worst, and I value getting it done far more than finding that elusive (or rather, illusive, natch) Holy Grail item. 

I like mid-to-low rise tapered pants, fitted collared shirts, any sleeves that aren’t full-length (or at least look attractive when rolled up), or knee-length dress+tights for work.

I don’t like scoop necklines, but honestly have no idea if that’s because I actually don’t like them or because the only ones I can ever find are far too low for my shortest-torso+no-boobs Situation. I have the same problem with women’s v-necks. I definitely don’t like boat-neck tops -- they show my bra and are constantly sliding sideways. I can’t wear strapless anything, unless there’s some serious foundation underneath and a sturdy strip of elastic across the top (see: no-boobs situation).

Outside of work, I’m all about t-shirts and stretch jeans. I love my mid-length utility jacket, though it’s often too warm to wear any kind of jacket. I also like short shorts (~2″ inseam), and occasionally sundresses (above the knee, A-line, halter or string top).

[kayerye]

INPUT

R204; G166; B148

R159; G93; B109

OUTPUT

Actual:

Super-saturated, because I wasn’t satisfied with the muted palette:

IDK, this strategy didn’t give me nearly as many vibrant colors OR as many greens and blues as I wanted; it did give me way too many pinks. Probably something to do with the black eyes/hair cutting down on possible color combinations.

MY COLORS

Whoops, I missed forest green up there in the accent colors, but I’m too lazy to go back and edit the image...

[kayerye]

[kayerye]

[inmysewingbox]

Small bust pattern adjustment tuto from dixy diy http://dixiediy.com/2015/05/small-bust-adjustment-on-a-2-dart-bodice-tutorial.html

[kayerye]

[kayerye]

How does a great outfit make you feel?

Competent,

confident,

smart,

clean,

prepared,

bright, 

approachable

How does a junk outfit make you feel? What would you like to avoid feeling about the clothes you wear?

Sloppy,

childish,

tired,

overwhelmed,

garish,

careless or clueless,

grouchy

Who are your style icons?

Esther Quek...

What are some styles that you like only in theory?

Flowing,

cute,

quirky,

feminine,

romantic

What 3-5 words best describe you and your core style?

vivid

structured

natural

practical

boyish

[kayerye]

History

It’s always been very important to dress for practicality rather than appearances -- though of course, formal events call for formal clothing, wearing dresses for day-to-day, when you’ll be running errands, doing laundry, & etc. is considered a total waste of effort. Typically girly trends and styles were discouraged, whether in color (pink glitters!) or style (tube top, really?). Cost also has a heavy influence on what I wear. If it isn’t too atrocious a fit, and it is cheap, the I will wear it.

Philosophy

What you wear should make you feel more like yourself. Buying secondhand/making your own/buying direct from makers is an ok compromise of quality, convenience, and ethics. The fact that I hate work certainly shows in how I put as little effort as possible into dressing for it.

Culture

I like Japanese design elements, though sometimes feel that they are too on the nose. (It’s a constant push-pull between the aesthetic I grew up with and a reaction to knowing too many weeabos.) I feel that workplace attire should be more structured/modest/constructed, and prefer not to wear unlined bras for this reason.

Community

Closet Cosplay is my favorite community in-joke. Dresses aren’t for casual wear, though sometimes you just want to look pretty or can’t be fucked to match two pieces of clothing, and that’s valid. I don’t feel that makeup is inauthentic or inherently feminine, but I do feel that it is distinctly performative, and largely Not For Me, since my style is probably best described as Lazy Tomboy. My family and friends tend heavily to the Don’t-Make-A ideology... i.e. glitter is for loud assholes. I don’t exactly disagree, though I do like a nice, sleek metallic accent now and then.

Activities

I work an essentially 9-5 office job, though since it’s Hawaii, I certainly don’t need to wear Professional Attire, like, ever. The easier it is to dress for work, the better, since I have to do it so often, and I hate it. Movement should be free, especially in middle-lower areas, since I have to do most of the office (literal) heavy lifting as well as sitting around taking phone calls and monitoring email. Ideally, I’d have some bright and happy workout clothes for hiking in, too.

Location

Hawaii is hot and humid. There’s intermittent and unpredictable rain. Short or 3/4 sleeves are preferred. Scarves, gloves, most jackets are simply Not Going To Happen in this climate. Natural fibers are always better.

Body

Fit is the unattainable goal. A shirt that isn’t obviously too long or a dress with the waistline at an appropriate height. Drapey wovens are favorite, since they have some structure but don’t ride up and choke me when I sit down. I prefer lined bras because they rearrange my shallow, wide breasts into something approximating the kind of bust that most clothes are designed for. Skinny pants look good, I think, since wider cuts tend to exacerbate my existing ‘shapelessness’ problem. Excess ease in the waist has been the bane of my sewing existence, so far as I can tell.