I used the Mariah Pattie method for bodice drafting and you were right, itâs amazing! I did a paper mockup (3 adjustments) and a fabric one (no bones, two adjustments) and I already feel like Iâve learned so much about how stays work! Iâm excited to hear your opinions on boning (these stays are back lacing, if that matters). And I did check out the sewing machine from my library!
That's amazing! I'm so glad it worked for you as well, the circular method really helped me so much to fit bodices properly.
My opinions on boning are, in short, these:
Different kinds of boning
Plastic sew in boning, flat steel boning, spiral steel and german plastic "whalebone" all have their place. It's a trade off whether you want stiffness, washability, flexibility, lightness. I frequently use combinations of flat steel for center front and center back and then spiral steel or plastic whalebone for the rest.
Boning placement
Boning is to hold the fabric in place, the shape of the fabric is to hold the you in place. The trick is to place the boning in a way that relieves the tension of the garment, bones shouldn't be digging in.
Boning placement has to be adjusted for your body. For example, I take out any boning that is on the side backs because my ribs stick out. I'm a fan of halfboned stays, but that's just what works on my body for the desired silhouette.
The most important bones are the one next to the lacing holes, or else lacing it will wrinkle everything
Vertical bones at the center front if you want to flatten or push up your chest, fanned out boning if you want to cone and smooth
Any bones around the arm hole should stop an inch under the armhole to avoid stabbing yourself in the armpit
If you're having issues of gaping or undesired shelf bust, consider some horizontal bones at the neckline
(adding a link to my binding stays here which illustrate a lot of my ideas about boning stays and the importance of boning placement)
I'm very happy to illustrate or explain any of these further, but for now the word boning has ceased to have meaning and i'm just feeling like this:
Not to start discourse but I will be forever mad that every time I go into the Goncharov tag I see people complaining that they watched the movie expecting a soft queer romcom about pure cinnamon rolls and instead they got a complex and violent film about deeply flawed people where everyone dies.
By all means, engage in fandom however you choose. But donât blame the source material for not being consistent with some random fanon on tumblr. Kinda wild to get mad that the movie about violent, morally dark grey criminals has violence, crime and moral greyness in it. You know? Also, imho given the time this movie was made, the queer coding was daring; this is NOT an example of queerbaiting.
hindu bad driver: yes I totally cut them off but have you considered the possibility that they were a douchebag in a past life so they deserve it?
buddhist bad driver: stop getting mad you are too attached to material things (your car that I rear ended)
jewish bad driver: according to this highly controversial interpretation of the melachot which five separate rabbis have told me is completely stupid, driving during Shabbat is fine as long as you ask your non jewish neighbor to turn the car on because then the engine is already on. However, using turn signals is prohibited and you can't turn headlights on or off which is why I just leave my high-beams on at all times
muslim bad driver: muslims are never required to yield the right of way to non muslims
neopagan bad driver: if we follow the teachings of the Great Earth Mother, traffic is like a flowing river. Turbulence and disorder are part of nature. "Lanes" are a product of a Christian society obsessed with rigid status and social control. You gotta just go with the flow, man. (jerks wheel and sends 2004 Subaru Outback with COEXIST bumper sticker and Etsy Dreamcatcher hanging from the rear view mirror careening across 3 lanes of traffic to make an exit)
satanist bad driver: much as great Lucifer defied god's oppressive vision of rigid order and obedience, I am treating this "stop" sign as a suggestion
pastafarian bad driver: this interchange is a sacred place. the convoluted mess of twisted, tangled ramps reflects the form of His divine noodley appendages. When I enter it I must meditate on the interchange and lose all awareness of surrounding cars.
amish bad driver: I don't need to pay attention to the road, my horses know the way home (is currently in the oncoming lane and has just run over a toddler because a leaf fell 200 yards away and spooked the horses)
cthulhu cultist bad driver: human "traffic laws" are insignificant and meaningless in the face of a bleak and uncaring universe. Ia, ia, Cthulhu fhtagn!
I know we make jokes about the proverbial asexual pervert who has written hundreds of thousands of words of smut on ao3, but also shoutout to the aces who arenât perverts. to the aces who skip the sex scenes and wince at sex jokes and awkwardly leave the conversation when your friends start talking about sex. your boundaries arenât childish and fuck anyone who says otherwise.
I think people forget that Stratt amnesticized Grace with the goal that Ilyukina and Yao would be there to help him, yâknow NOT DIE, and then THEY DIED before he woke up.
So like she gets the recordings and realizes Yao and Ilyukina are dead before he wakes up so heâs got no pilot, no engineer, and no memories.
And then you also have to remember that the EXISTENCE of these recordings and the fact they were accompanied by the Taumoeba means that an amnesticized Grace somehow managed to save earth without a pilot or engineer and shoddy memory that only vaguely gives him enough to work with as he works.
It lets people access scientific articles for free. This is dangerous. It helps the free flow of knowledge and reduces the competitive edge of all the people who worked really hard to have been born into a wealth.
Like, itâs literally a website where you can type in the DOI of an article and read it, without ever having to pay the publisher who exploited the author.
So, again, do not, under any circumstance, use Sci-Hub. I mean, can you imagine a world where knowledge is free and easily accessible to everyone? Even, y'know, poor people?
Libgen also has many books online, including textbooks, searchable by name, author, and ISBN. Can you imagine textbook companies not getting their hard-earned income from poor college students? Here is the link just so you make sure that you never accidentally stumble across this horrible, unethical website.
Oh, and while weâre talking about books, if youâve managed to stay clear from Libgen, definitely donât go to zlibrary, where you can also find a lot of textbooks, but unfortunately theyâre completely free.
Another inside tip from academia: Those papers in really expensive journals that are effectively inaccessible to anyone not in a university network? Depending on the discipline itâs very likely that same paper is on a âpreprintâ server somewhere, with no access restrictions.
Like if you want to read basically any physics, math, or CS paper, arXiv.org will have you covered, because everyone uploads their papers there before submitting to a journal (and generally updates it after peer review). I know all of my papers are on there. This is such common practice that journals have it baked into their licensing agreements that authors retain the right to upload their work to these places.
So the next time you get hit with that paywall, you may not even need sci-hub, just click the arxiv link on google scholar instead.
if for some reason none of this works, the old âsend a email nicely asking for the paper to the authorâ is always a good trick. remember most scientists hate the commercialisation of scientific knowledge
Many authors of papers are on ResearchGate! You can ask for papers there, if they donât just post a copy to download. If theyâre associated with a college, you can usually find their email addresses in the department directory, also.
My wife pointed out to me the other day that apparently most people were literally only taught how to say Sorry and not how to Apologize or even that they are different things so here.
If all you ever do is step 1, not only did you not apologize, but people will rightfully stop believing you and start getting pissed or hurt.
Okay for those of you living in pitiful ignorance, take a raw ear of corn with the husk on and cut all the way around the base (as pictured: above the point where the husk meets the cob, so that the entire husk is severed but still wrapped around the corn. Do not cut through the cob.) Then, with the husk still on, microwave it for 5-7 minutes. It'll basically steam it inside the husk. Remove from microwave --it will be hot, so use a mitt or a towel--and firmly pull the top of the husk/silk, which should come off easily in one piece, unsheathing a flawless corn on the cob. If it doesn't, you probably need to cut a little higher around the base, so all the leaves are severed. No picking off silk!
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