Putting the L in Grilling

A test kitchen located under Chicago's L tracks somewhere between the North/Clybourn Red Line stop and the Armitage Brown Line stop.

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In honor of the one-year anniversary of the blog (thanks for reading, everyone!) here’s a picture of Courtney photo staging the Double RL Ranch Burger we made for the first post. Great job, Co. Masterpiece.

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Gone, grill

I posted this photo on Instagram, but all things equal, I figured the biggest news about this blog should make it onto, you know, the blog. 

Long story short: the grill got grabbed. 

Robbed. Stolen. Taken 3. 

We assume it was for scrap metal, because they left the gas tank behind. 

Our landlord -- who also mistakenly believed we were the only ones who used the grill he so graciously left behind -- mistakenly believed it was chained to something in the alley, standing between two gates he refuses to ever lock. Easy snag for the fine folks who stroll under the Brown and Red line on occasion. 

So, it’s semi-decent timing since “grill season” is more or less over, though we would have definitely grilled through the fall and probably (to some degree) into the winter. Now, we have some decisions to make. We don't want to buy a nice grill and stick it out there at the risk it gets stolen again (also letting our building neighbors use it?). But we find it hard to imagine life without one. Perhaps a fold-up tailgate-type grill? An early wedding present to ourselves? Not sure yet. 

All I know is if I make cook one more pork chop in the microwave (kidding), Courtney’s gonna kill me.

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Lime-and-Cilantro-Stuffed Black Bass

This marks the first time I put an entire animal on the grill. It did not go badly. 

Black bass and Branzino are more or less interchangeable in the whole fish cooking world, and you should have no problem getting either/or. It may seem like a whole fish is over the top, or even too much food, but this is the perfect portion size for two people. The people at your fish market will clean it for you, leaving the (relatively) easy part for you. 

A few tips from Bon Appetit magazine, from which this recipe is sourced:

It’s not only okay to eat the cheeks, it’s encouraged. 

The stuffing can be varied easily. Try lemon with tarragon, or orange with rosemary. 

(Ed. note: Save the remnants from this meal -- or if you just so happened to grill three seafood dishes in a matter of days, all of that -- and make a delicious stock with it.)

Lime-and-Cilantro-Stuffed Black Bass

2 servings

1 T vegetable oil, plus more for the grill

1 1 1/2-2 lb. whole black bass or Branzino, cleaned

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch cilantro, divided

1 lime, thinly sliced, seeds removed, divided

Prepare grill for medium-high heat, and oil the grate. Season the bass inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff the bass with half of the cilantro and half of the lime slices. Tie it closed with kitchen twine, spacing two inches apart (this will hold the stuffing in and make it easier to turn fish on the grill).

Grill the bass undisturbed until skin is charred and crisp and flesh of bottom fillet is flaky and opaque, 6–10 minutes, depending on the size of the fish.

Place a metal spatula underneath the bass and brace with tongs on top for support, then lift and gently roll it over onto the other side. Cook until the flesh of the other fillet is flaky and opaque, 6–10 minutes. If a small knife or a tester slides easily into the thickest part of flesh, the fish is done.

(From BA: Is It done? The perennial question. To find out, use a thin knife or cake tester to pierce the flesh at the thickest point. (If grilling a whole fish, this will be behind the collar or along the backbone.) It should insert easily; if you feel any resistance, it’s not quite ready. Once it slides through easily, touch the tip of the knife to your lip; it should be just warm. Hot fish is overcooked fish.)

Line a platter with the remaining cilantro and lime slices. Place the bass on top and remove the twine. (Or transfer to a cutting board if you want to fillet it first.)

How to fillet a whole cooked fish: 

1. Using a knife, cut along the backbone from just behind the head to the tail to gently separate the fillet from the spine. 

2. Lift the top fillet from the skeleton. (It should be easy.)

3. Lift the spine from the tail end to remove it -- and along with it, the head. Trim away any small bones that may still be attached to the bottom fillet.

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Head-On Prawns with Chile, Garlic and Parsley

Continuing with our seafood theme, and also with another simple and delicious dish. (We made three seafood dishes concurrently and none of them required more than a handful of ingredients other than the protein, and nothing hard to find.)

This dish speaks for itself, but here’s an addendum from the Bon Appetit recipe: We strongly advocate the grilling of any and all crustaceans,especially if we’re talking about head-on prawns. Why? Prawns are much larger and have a slightly thicker shell than your average shrimp, offering added insurance against overcooking. 

Also: Shrimp vs. Prawns -- what’s the difference? Technically, not much. The word prawns is generally used to refer to very large shrimp. If your fishmonger looks at you funny when you ask for prawns, request the biggest shell-on shrimp he’s got. It’s the size and shell that matter, not the name.

Head-On Prawns with Chile, Garlic and Parsley

from Bon Appetit’s June 2015 issue

6 T olive oil, divided, plus more for grill

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 T finely chopped fresh parsley

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

12 head-on, tail-on prawns or jumbo shrimp (1 1/2-2 lbs.)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

Flaky sea salt

Lemon wedges (for serving)

Prepare the grill for medium-high heat; oil the grate. Combine the garlic, parsley, red pepper flakes and four tablespoons of oil in a medium bowl.

Use kitchen shears to cut along the length of the back of each prawn just deep enough into flesh to expose the vein and remove it. Toss the prawns with the remaining two tablespoons of oil in another medium bowl. Season with kosher salt and pepper.

Grill the prawns, turning occasionally, until their shells are bright red and their meat is cooked through (it will look slightly opaque), about 5 minutes. 

Transfer to a bowl with garlic-parsley mixture and toss to coat. Season with kosher salt and pepper. Transfer prawns to a serving platter and pour garlic-parsley mixture over and sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with lemon wedges.

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Grilled Oysters with Sriracha Lime Butter

Here’s what happens when you go to the fish market to buy oysters to take home: first you have to decide whether you want them to shuck the oysters for you, or if you’ll do it yourself. Since the only injuries I try to subject myself to while grilling is losing all the hair on my hand when I match-light our incredibly-combustilble grill, I’ll pay the extra 75 cents a pop to have them shuck them for me. 

Next, they’re going to ask you if you want to keep the shell. Rookies (ahem), this means the shell on which the oyster comes -- not the top shell they’re removing. You’re going to want to know this before they hand you the finished product and all the shells are in the garbage (though maybe you’ll get lucky and they’ll still be on the top of the trash, and can easily be rinsed off).

Speaking of the finished product, you will go into this experience looking at half a dozen or a solid dozen healthy-looking oysters. In the end, the person behind the counter at the market is going to hand you a small piece of tupperware with a bunch of oysters floating around in liquid. Not exactly what you’re used to seeing come out on a bed of ice at Acme Oyster House or GT. But that’s how it’s done. 

By now, you’re back home. This is where it gets easy. The butter in this recipe is a piece of cake. Essentially, re-assemble the oysters (careful, they’ll slip around in the shell), spoon on a dollop of the butter mixture and put them on the grill until they plump up and the edges begin to curl (3-4 minutes). Careful, the shells will be hot. And the oysters will be delicious.

Grilled Oysters with a Sriracha Lime Butter 

By Melissav, from The Food52 Cookbook

4 T (1/2 stick) butter, softened

2 tsp. finely minced shallot

1 tsp. Srircha

1 T lime juice

1/4 tsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. minced cilantro

2 dozen oysters on the half shell

In a small bowl, mix the buyer with the shallot, Sriracha, lime juice, salt and cilantro. Let it set up in the fridge. It doesn’t have to set up completely, but it should be more solid than liquid -- give it at least an hour (Ed. note: It doesn’t need an hour).

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Dispatches from Spain: A Guest Post

Editor’s note: My brother, John, spent his final days as a Michigan State student studying abroad in Spain this summer, and that included plenty of Spanish cuisine. This is his guest post about grilling in Santander.

Santander, Spain -- I was fortunate enough to spend eight weeks this summer studying abroad in Santander, Spain. In my time abroad I played a lot of music, drank a lot of Mahou (their domestic beer), and ate a lot of awesome food. Luckily I found a group of guys to play music with that also happened to welcome me into their gastronomic culture of tapas, jamón (ham), pinchos and lucky for me, barbacoas. 

I attended two Spanish barbecues with my friends from the band, The Groovin Beards. Both were awesome experiences, full of delicious food, and interesting glimpses into the culture and culinary world of Spain. I LOVE grilling at home, and have always had a special place in my stomach for barbecues and grilled food. 

When I was invited to the first barbecue I was warned: “This is not like an American barbecue… there will be no barbecue sauce!”

On our way to the barbacoa, we stopped at the supermarket to get beer, meat and pan (bread) -- the three vital ingredients to any good barbecue. I could tell from the section of the store dedicated to barbacoas that they would be taking their grilling pretty seriously.

The barbecue was taking place at the town house outside of the city that the band rents for practice. Their friendly landlord Pablo was using the awesome backyard garden and patio to throw a small get together for friends and family. The band was invited and provided live music for the first hour or so of the barbecue.

When we were finished playing, we followed our noses to the brick charcoal grill (parilla de carbón) in the backyard where our meal was waiting for us. On the menu: chorizo criollo (creole sausage), chistorra (sausage), and pinchos morunos (pork kebabs). Feast your eyes:

Starting with the short sausages in the upper left-hand corner, we have los chorizos criollos (creole sausages), which are completely uncured pork without paprika (most Spanish chorizos contain paprika) but still full of flavor similar to an Italian or Polish sausage. The skewers of meat to the right of those are pinchos morunos- diced pork kebabs marinated in olive oil, herbs and spices, and seasoned with salt. Pincho = skewer in English. And finally we have the chistorra, a cured pork sausage typically found in the Basque Country seasoned with garlic, salt and paprika (which gives it that nice red color).

Each meat had its own unique flavor. And they weren’t kidding ... there was no ketchup, mustard, or BBQ sauce in sight. Only meat and bread. When the meat is that good, who needs sauce? The meat was grilled perfectly IMHO (I like a little char) and had that awesome charcoal smokey flavor.

The foosball table on the patio completed the party. They were all professionals and I got my butt kicked. They take their foosball as serious as they take their grilling. No spins allowed.

My second barbecue was also a treat. We gathered at the beautiful home of my friend Luis on a warm and sunny Saturday afternoon to enjoy some good company, good weather, and of course good beer and food.

We grilled zucchini and some lomo bajo (lower back of a cow). Luis assured me it was an awesome cut of meat, and it sure looked good before they even threw it on the charcoal grill (notice the excessive amount of pan):

One of my favorite parts about this meal was the cool grill they were using. It was another brick charcoal grill but it was worked into the rocky landscape of the backyard. Check it out:

This must not have been Santi and Quique’s first rodeo, because the meat was perfectly done. I wish I had a video of the reaction my girlfriend Ally and I had eating this meat. It was a light pink in the center, juicy as hell, and seasoned with some large sea salt grains. It doesn’t look like anything special from the pictures but holy cow, was it awesome. We did dip a few pieces into a delicious chimichurri sauce:

I am so lucky I got to experience these awesome barbacoas. Everyone was speaking Spanish, no one was on their cell phone, and everyone had a good time. They really know how to live over there.

Muchas gracias a mis compañeros de banda Santi, Quique, Luis, y Gustavo para todo. Mi experiencia y viaje en España fue increíble debido a su generosidad y amibilidad. Hasta la próxima barbacoa y misa negra!!

Thank you so much to my bandmates Santi, Quique, Luis y Gustavo for everything. My experience and trip in Spain was incredible thanks to your generosity and kindness. Until the next barbecue!

-- Juanito

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Grilled Green Beans and Peaches

Too easy. The new way to prepare green beans.

Grilled Green Beans and Peaches (from Bon Appetit)

Serves 4

2 peaches (cut into 1/2-inch wedges)

1 lb. green beans, trimmed

2 T olive oil

1 T Sherry vinegar

2 tsp. toasted slivered almonds

Kosher salt

Freshly-ground black pepper

Toss the peaches and green beans with the olive oil; season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook in a grill pan over high heat, tossing often, until beans are crisp-tender and peaches are lightly charred, 8–10 minutes. Toss with almonds and vinegar.

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The great Mark Bittman starts by saying in this New York Times video, “there’s no wrong way to grill corn” and then ends a few minutes later by saying “for it to work, you must start with corn.”

And that’s about all there is to it. It’s true – you can grill corn in or out of the husk, with butter or oil before or after. As long or as little on the grill as you like. Whatever you’re into.

Here’s one easy way to do it.

Shuck the corn. No need to do anything to it before you put it on a hot grill and close the top. Depending on how hot your grill is and how charred you like your corn, it’ll just be a minute or two. When it’s finished, Bittman recommends a couple of ways to add flavor.

– A chili-lime mayo (which I used): Start here with however much mayo you’re going to need, because that’s your base and you can sort of eyeball your end product that way. Next, add the lime juice – but start slowly with it, so as not to make the the mayo too liquid-y (and keep in mind, the sourness of the lime will pair really well with the sweetness of the corn). Then add chili powder to your liking.

– Bittman also says: “Olive oil, chopped basil and Parmesan make an unexpected and very good combo; crumbled feta mixed with plain yogurt, lemon juice, oregano and cumin is amazing; and you can’t go wrong with mayo mixed with minced garlic, pimentón and parsley.”

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Five-Days-Late Hot Dogs with Giardiniere

First things first: the hot dogs. When I call them Five-Days-Late hot dogs, I don’t mean they’re five days old. I just mean I had the intention of making them on Saturday and here it is, Wednesday. I had grand plans of grilling them over charcoal for my softball buddies during a bye in a suburban tournament this weekend … then we got our asses handed to us and no one was in the mood to put together the grill, take care of the hot dogs and wait for the charcoal to cool down before we headed home. So Thursday lunch it is!

There’s not a whole lot special about these hot dogs. Any kind will do. But here’s a fun trick (courtesy of Courtney’s sister, Campbell): before you cook them, turn the dog through your fingers while running a knife along the edge to form lines like a candy cane. Cut deep enough to puncture the dog but you don’t want to mortally wound it.

When they grill – and if they plump when you cook ‘em like the Ballpark Angus Beef Franks I used (the bigger the better) – the grooves will accentuate and look almost like a crescent roll hot dog. The grooves in the dog give you a nice resting place for your favorite condiment. Which brings us to the giardiniere.

I’ve used a couple different recipes to make giardiniere – this Tasting Table one being the most recent and one I like a lot. It’s acidic and briney and with hardly any oil (a lot of giardiniere is made with a ton of oil, which is the case traditionally in Chicago). You can see from the photos that mine turned out kind of pink, but that’s only because I used deep purple carrots from the farmer’s market.

One thing I would note is if you like your food/condiments spicy, add a few extra peppers or use spicier ones. This is definitely on the mild side.

Giardiniere Pickles

Tasting Table recipe adapted from Bruce Kalman, Union, Pasadena, CA

Makes 5 cups

2 C distilled white vinegar

¼ C granulated sugar

2 T kosher salt

3 serrano chiles

1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice

½ medium yellow onion, very thinly sliced

1¼ C small (about ½-inch) cauliflower florets

1¼ Cups very thinly sliced carrots (about 3 medium carrots)

2 medium celery stalks, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon whole yellow mustard seeds

1½ teaspoons dried oregano

¼ cup olive oil

In a medium pot, combine the vinegar, sugar and salt, and bring to a boil. Add the chiles and cook until they are cooked through and the green color begins to dull, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the chiles to cool completely in the vinegar.

When the chiles are cool, slice into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Reserve the pickling liquid.

In a mixing bowl, combine the pickling liquid with the sliced chiles and all remaining ingredients (except the bread). Allow to marinate for 1 to 2 days before serving. Place in an airtight container and keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

(Post-mortem editor’s note: This week, I also made hot dogs with Marja Vongerichten’s Kimchi Relish from The Kimchi Chronicles: mix together 1/2 cup kimchi, 2 teaspoons honey, 2 teaspoons rice vinegar and top your hot dugs with the relish and some hot mustard.)

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Tuscan Grilled Zucchini and Summer Squash

I laughed when I first read this recipe because it’s true and it’s true. 

From The Food52 Cookbook: “This is a great example of the whole equaling more than the sum of its parts. At first glance, the recipe seems like one we’ve all seen before, but we’ve never never tasted grilled zucchini quite like this.”

That’s true, and that’s true. Zucchini and onions on the grill are hardly something you need a recipe for, but this one stands out. The zucchini is grilled and cooked through without becoming soggy, as it tends to do when hit with this much oil and grilled. Cutting it into cubes rather than slicing it into circles is a difference-maker. 

And, as is the case with most things, the more time you can afford to marinate, the better.

I got a kick out of leafing through and cooking from this book because it (and the blog it follows) encompasses a lot of what this blog is about – a cooking community, tips and techniques and great, modern food.

Ed. Note: Rather than grill a few large onions separately, I had some pearl red onions to use up and just stuck those on the skewer. Works either way.

Tuscan Grilled Zucchini and Summer Squash

By Stefano Coppola, from The Food52 Cookbook

Serves 2-4

Sturdy skewers

5 garlic cloves, minced

Leaves from 4 rosemary sprigs, chopped

1 oregano sprig, chopped

½ T crushed red pepper flakes

3 lemons, zested and juiced

½ C red wine vinegar

2 C extra virgin olive oil

2 zucchini, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 summer squash, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 red onions, unpeeled and halved 

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

If using wood skewers, soak them in hot water. Make the marinade: Combine the garlic, herbs, red pepper flakes, lemon juice and zest and vinegar in a bowl. Whisk in the oil. 

Place the zucchini and squash in a large resealable plastic bag, pour the marinade over, and seal. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes, preferably for a few hours. 

Heat the grill to high.

Remove the zucchini and squash from the marinade and place on skewers.

Grill the onions, turning occasionally, until they are charred on the outside, about 15 minutes. Place them in a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap to steam the onions. 

Grill the zucchini and squash until tender, 5-6 minutes total, turning occasionally. 

Peel and slice the onions. Pull the zucchini and squash off the skewers, toss with the onion and season with salt and pepper. Serve. 

Ed. Note: This also makes a great filling for a wrap.

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A few words on grilling chicken

More and more when we grill chicken -- which, sort of oddly enough, is one of the more difficult things to prepare on the grill because you don't want to dry it out or burn it, but you can’t eat it if it’s not cooked through -- we’ve used a method that actually combines a couple methods: baking and grilling.

This may seem overly complicated, but believe me -- the parbaking aspect is basically a no-brainer, and it saves you any and all trouble on the grilling end.

Forgive me because this isn’t an exact science, but once you see it in action, you’ll understand how simple it is and how much trouble it saves. This is really best for bone-in chicken -- which works because that’s often cheapest, and this method preserves the juiciness you get when you cook bone-in meat. 

The parbaking method is traditionally used for baking bread (you know when you see loaves or rolls at the grocery store that just need to be finished off in the oven?), but can be used for other foods, as well. You can use a similar method of parboiling for the potatoes in this recipe.

Back to chicken. First, marinade or rub the chicken with whatever you like or whatever recipe you’re following.

When you’re a little ways out of actually grilling the chicken, put it in an oven-safe container and bake it at about 200 degrees (that can vary a bit depending on how much chicken you have and how much time you can spare before grilling). This is where you lose the exact science of it, because there’s no real timetable for baking the chicken. The end game is to come close to cooking it through, so just keep and eye on it. It can really go for hours.

And when you’re ready to grill it, all you need to do is finish the meat. You can focus on getting that perfect char without worrying about whether the inside is undercooked.

Try this method with the summertime chopped salad or any of your other favorite chicken recipes. You’ll never cook chicken another way again.

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Summer dinners up north. Grilled romaine hearts with blue cheese dressing and bacon, and lamb chops. Beats Lollapalooza every time.

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Twice Baked Potatoes

Don’t screw around with these. Go big or go home. Shout out to Courtney’s grandmother for this simple, kickass recipe.

Twice Baked Potatoes

Serves 2

2 large potatoes

4 bacon strips

1/4 C chopped green onions

2 T grated parmesan

1/2 C sour cream (OK, you can use Greek yogurt)

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

Scrub the potatoes well and rub them in oil. Bake them at 400º F for about an hour. 

Meanwhile, sauté the bacon until it’s crisp. Then sauté the onion in the bacon fat (about 3 T of it). 

When the potatoes are done, slice off the top and scoop them out. Mix the scooped-out potato with the bacon, sautéed onion, parmesan, sour cream, salt and pepper. Reheat the potatoes until the mixture begins to brown on top.

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Spiked Strawberry Lemon Spritzer from Epicurious

I hope you can realize without my telling you that this recipe has nothing to do with a grill, other than you might like to have this drink in your hand when you’re standing next to one.

This has been our drink of the summer, and it comes from Epicurious. Their recipe serves eight, but I’ve broken this down by the single cocktail. There’s also a way to shortcut it if you don’t want to go through all of the steps. We’ll get to that in a sec. 

Spiked Strawberry Lemon Spritzer

Splash of simple syrup 

2-3 strawberries

1.5 ounces vodka

1/2 lemon, juiced - plus a wedge for garnish

Sparkling water or club soda

Mint for garnish (optional)

Mash 1-2 berries in the bottom of each cocktail glass. Fill the glass with ice. Add vodka, simple syrup, lemon juice and top it off with soda water. Stir. Garnish with a strawberry and/or a lemon and/or a sprig of mint. 

(Notes: The Epicurious recipe calls for a syrup made from equal parts honey and water, but simple syrup is virtually the same thing.

Also, you can just go with muddled strawberry, good quality lemonade, vodka and soda for a shortcut version.)

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Courtney loves artichokes. They are to her what sunflower seeds are to me -- a lot of work for a minuscule but satisfying reward. They’re easy enough to prepare: 

Cut off the top quarter to reveal the layers, as well as the stem at the base. You can also trim any of the outer leaves. Put them in a pot filled with water (they don’t have to be covered) and bring it to a boil. Turn it down to a simmer, and leave them in there for 45-60 minutes until the leaves pull off easily.

The thicker, fleshier end of the leaf (the bottom, essentially) is the part you want to eat. The easiest way to do it is grip the top of the leaf, and pull the leaf through your gritted teeth to get whatever’s in there. Treat yo self and dip the leaves in some butter before eating, all the way down until you hit the heart.

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Engagement Steak (And Potatoes. And Artichokes. And Cocktails.)

It’s ironic that the meal Courtney and I made to celebrate our engagement is the same one she’d choose if you asked her to describe her ideal last meal on earth. So let’s take the plunge!

Rather than picking some newer recipes like we’ve done for the most part in this space, we (she) went back in time and based this meal around a few of her grandmother’s favorite recipes. The steak -- we got a New York strip from Whole Foods -- was marinated in her Big Bob’s All Purpose Marinade before going on the grill, and Courtney also used her grandma’s twice-baked potato recipe. 

This meal is the real deal. Cocktails, martinis and wine. Frying onions in bacon grease. Butter for dipping artichoke leaves. Go crazy, folks.

(So as not to overwhelm in this one post, I’m going to break the meal down over the next few days. Stay tuned!)

Big Bolis’ All Purpose Marinade

1/4 C Salad oil

1/4 C bourbon

2 T soy sauce

1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp. garlic powder

freshly ground pepper

Easy enough, right? Soak that sucker in the marinade for as much time as your day allows. We only did a couple hours and it was still terrific. Dry it off before you put it on the grill.

For grilling, it all depends on the steak (cut and thickness), and your preferred level of doneness (I’ll try not to judge). We, like all humans should, like ours on the rare side of medium-rare. To achieve this with a New York strip about 1-1 1/2 inches thick, we heated the grill on high for about 10 minutes. Throw the  steak on for 4-6 minutes. It’ll be cooked nicely on the underside and start to cook through entirely. Then, turn the grill down to a low-medium heat and flip the steak over and cook for another 1-2 minutes to achieve a little char on the other side. 

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Sea to Grill to Table, from Bon Appétit