The Beginning of the Naval Uniforms
Until 1748, there were no uniforms for officers in the Royal Navy. They dressed according to the prevailing male fashion of the upper classes, especially the French fashion. For even if one would like to believe that they were sailors, like the Sailor, they wore useful and weather-protective clothing (thick breeches, coats made of kersey, a water-repellent woollen fabric, thick woollen caps, waistcoats made of densely woven fabrics). Waistcoats made of tightly woven fabrics, etc.), then you are wrong. Officers, especially those acting on commission, such as the Midshipmen, were gentlemen. They were said to have a certain masculinity and even sexual attraction, and the gentleman in question could not dress like a rogue.
Captain Richard Chadwick, d. 1748, by George Knapton 1744 - You can only tell that this is a captain by looking at the ship in the background.
Elaborate fashions with expensive fabrics, lace, shoe clips, silk handkerchiefs and wigs were expected, and the higher the rank, the higher the quality. Because the outfit stood for rank, relationships, self-expression and social standing. Since the officers of the time came from higher social ranks, the gentlemen were also expected to be able to pay for these clothes. But that was not the case for everyone. Some people got through life more badly than well, because even if they had a good name, they didn’t necessarily have the money. And so the second-hand trade flourished, more or less under the table, where it was customary to auction off the belongings of a deceased comrade in front of the mast. And yet none of the officers wanted to be seen buying someone else’s cast-off clothes and having them altered, and yet it was often practised. Not only were such clothes insanely expensive, they were also impractical. For while the gentleman looked good, weather protection was rather less so.
Lord George Anson, 1697-1762, by Joseph Highmore 18th century (x) - He is is not wearing the official naval uniform. He wears a breast plate with tasses, a blue coat frogged with gold, a red sash, and a grey-bottomed wig.
Therefore, one would think that the Admiralty would come up with the idea of introducing a uniform. But this one was not. It was in 1746 that a group of officers, the Navy Club, met regularly at the Coffee House in Scotland Yard to discuss important matters such as payments, battles, and so on. Among other things, the club felt that it was important that there should be uniforms for commissioned officers. They wanted the Navy to stand out from other navies and to be immediately recognisable as Navy officers and not as ordinary gentlemen, because the club was very annoyed at always being thought of as such and not as officers, which they were.
A long-sleeved dress waistcoat of a captain, over three years seniority, 1748- 1767 pattern (x)
The Admiralty agreed and Captain Philip Saumarez and Captain (later Admiral) August Kepple were commissioned to design a uniform. They were assisted by Timothy Brett from the Navy Office. Both wanted a uniform that was both masculine and military, and that expressed taste without being opulent or luxurious. They knew that it was difficult for many people to buy such expensive clothes, even if they came from the upper class.
A dress coat of a lieutenant, 1748-67 pattern (x)
The undress frock of a lieutenant, 1748-67 pattern (x)
In April 1748, the Admiralty introduced two uniforms, one dressed and one undressed, both made of blue wool, with the Navy in mind and the idea of having something weatherproof as a fabric. The facings were white with different variations of gold lace or metal thread embroidery depending on rank. And for the first time, differences in rank were made visible. :
Whereas we judge it necessary, in order the better to distinguish the rank of sea officers, to establish a Military Uniform Clothing [… ] for Admirals, Captains, Commanders and Lieutenants; and judging it necessary, that Persons acting as Midshipmen should likewise have a Uniform Clothing in order to carry the Appearance which is necessary to distinguish their Class to be in the Rank of Gentlemen, and give them better Credit and Figure in executing the Commands of their Superior Officers; You are hereby required and directed to conform yourself to the said Establishment, by wearing Clothing accordingly at all proper Times; and to take Care, that such of the aforesaid Officers and Midshipmen, who may be from Time to Time under your Command do the like; and it is our farther Direction, that no Commissioned Officer, or Midshipman, do presume to wear any other Uniform that properly belongs to his Rank.
This order not only clearly defined the individual ranks but also put an end to dressing above one’s station. It also regulated the use of the dressed and the undressed uniform. While the dressed uniform was worn for formal or court occasions, the undressed uniform was used informal or as a day dress.
Admiral Sir Peter Warren, 1703/04-52, by Thomas Hudson 1748-52 (x) - Here he wears the dressed uniform of an admiral according to the 1748 pattern. Rear-Admiral Sir Charles Holmes, 1711-1761, by Nathaniel Dance c. 1758 (x) - He is shown wearing flag officer’s undress uniform, 1748–67.
This first uniform was based on the current fashion of 1748, a blue wool coat, but cut according to court fashion, this dressed uniform was considered a hybrid of court fashion and working clothes. Which wool fabric was used was up to the officer and what he could pay. The wide sleeves had white cuffs to match the white waistcoat. The trousers were blue breeches with black shoes and white stockings. Depending on the rank, the coat was decorated with elaborate gold embroidery or lace. The Undressed Uniform was purely working dress and was modelled on the British Country dress, which had originally been worn as frock in the working class.
A frock coat of a midshipman, 1748-58 pattern (x)
From this uniform a whole band of uniforms was established in the course of time and brought many changes with it, so that every member of the Navy was also recognised as such. Just as the members of the Navy Club had wished.
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