untitled
Kiana Khansmith
𓃗
ellievsbear
The Bright Sessions
Cookie Run:Kingdom Official!
One Nice Bug Per Day
❣ Chile in a Photography ❣
d e v o n
blake kathryn
PUT YOUR BEARD IN MY MOUTH
macklin celebrini has autism
shark vs the universe
Sweet Seals For You, Always
pixel skylines
@theartofmadeline
Phantogram Three
Color Me Curious
sheepfilms
Mike Driver
seen from Côte d’Ivoire
seen from Türkiye
seen from Canada
seen from Venezuela
seen from Italy
seen from United States
seen from United Kingdom
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from United Kingdom
seen from United States
seen from Poland
seen from Türkiye
seen from France
seen from France
seen from Italy
seen from Canada
seen from Lithuania
seen from United States
@stitcherywitcherydock
pinned post time 🦐
you can find my patterns on my designer profile on ravelry under the name Rabbit Sharpe
my personal ravelry is crooked-leg, come add me there if you wanna make friends!
if you wanna see me make stuff in video format i have a youtube channel also, my name is Rabbit Sharpe/@crooked-leg-rabbit
check out my most recent design here
that's all for now ok bye
Desert Wash and Dragonfruit on Corriedale, dyed by Three Waters Farm & 2plyed. ~600 yards.
Non sono granché a stirare ma il maglione è finito, giusto in tempo per la primavera.
some of my favorite woven tapestries, by Cecilia Blomberg:
Point Defiance Steps
Mates
Rising Tides
Vashon Steps
TAPESTRIES????
FUCKING HELL. FUCK. ING. HELL.
Here's her website, cause there's a whole load more to see.
Please take a look around and see what I've been up to on my loom. Drop me a line if you have any questions or comments.
@elodieunderglass !!
Wow!!
I've been peer pressured into including stitch markers in my patterns. It's never been my preference to use them. I don't find them particularly helpful, but I value other people's feedback and understand that they're important for many people. I'm currently making a sample of a new pattern which includes stitch markers, so I'm forced to deal with them. I have the right to loudly complain the whole time.
Here are the top three reasons that I don't like using Stitch markers in my knitting:
1. Markers lie. Stitch markers are supposed to be a guide, highlighting an area of your knitting and creating a landmark that you can track. But what happens if that landmark isn't in the right place? Whenever I find a mistake involving a stitch marker, there's a 50% chance that the marker is just in the wrong place and my knitting is completely fine. If the marker is next to a Yarn Over, it's even more likely to slide into the wrong position. In the particular pattern I'm working on, the stitch markers need to move, introducing another place where I can make mistakes. Mistakes happen in my project all the time and one of my most common issues is forgetting to move or place a stitch marker.
2. If (when) I make a big mistake and have to rip out, the markers come out too. It's difficult to find the correct placement after frogging. I do my best to make sure that marker placement is shown in each row. That way, the knitter knows where they should be. you can place the markers when they fall out or if you rip out, but it's still an ordeal to get them back in place. When a pattern lacks these clues, it's nearly impossible to figure out where the markers should be.
3. Very often, markers highlight an existing landmark in the knitting. I'd rather spot a column of increases or a specific stitch in a repeat than a marker sitting next to it. The skill of spotting the se landmarks is often called "reading your knitting." It's a skill that's learned over time, and not everyone has this ability. But it is a skill that's well worth learning if you want to make projects with intricate stitch work or shaping. Because I'm able to read my knitting, I often take the markers out and use landmark stitches as a guide. As soon as I'm done making sure all of the markers in a pattern makes sense, I remove them. When I don't have to worry about markers, things move a lot faster.
every color change weakens my fragile grip on reality, but at least my mermaid is finally whole!
I just finished my shawl/scarf! I still need to weave in the ends and block it, but the knitting is done!
I bound off my Filigree Tee today, and the bind off edge isn't stretchy enough to go over my hips. I tested my bind off on the sleeves and neckline, and it should have had enough stretch! Not a ton, but enough! Instead, the one on the bottom edge has no stretch at all. I'm so pissed off. And I already cut the yarn, so if I want to do a different bind off, I have to sacrifice length on the body to get more yarn available. At least it should be easier to rip out than a sewn bind off. This really isn't my week when it comes to yarn.
Sigh. Bind off has been ripped back, four rows (one lace repeat) of length have been sacrificed, and I am set to re-finish this shirt. I even fished out the same beginning of round marker - other than the slight texture change from the wash, it's like I never finished it. I've decided on a bind off that won't look too different from the neck and sleeve edges, but will have much more stretch. Eleven rounds and a bind off to go...
I officially have my first abject failure of a project. I used a different bind off - one I've used on hems before and which worked fantastically - and it's still too damn tight to go over my hips. It's better than the first bind off, but it still doesn't go all the way down, and looks like shit all bunched up around my waist. My mom, who is smaller than I am, tried it on, and it looked so frumpy on her I couldn't let her keep it in good conscience. I'm so angry.
Oh, boo. So is the conclusion that it is just needing a really stretchy cast-off, or that the hips should probably be knit bigger than they are?
And how do the cotton socks work for you? I wouldn't expect them to stay up particularly well normally. (I had one student who wanted everything to be natural for some very pseudo-science reasons... I managed well enough to avoid needling her about this when she brought it up - although that might have been her being a bit dense - that she kept taking classes with me, and she was having a hard time with socks, especially summer weight ones. Knowing what I do now, I'd suggest just using wool, and working in a laceweight or something, but she was trying to work in cotton, and I had no advice for her.
hand knit cotton socks and stockings used to be much more common than they are now - some of them were made to be used with garters (of the sock- or -belt varieties), but many stay up well enough on their own no problem. a pattern with more ribbing in the leg or a yarn that's finer or bouncier might do the trick for your student.
Atlantis dyed by Created by ElsieB. 4oz Targhee. 275 yards of 3 ply spun as a 2:4:8 fractal, with a mini skein of 2ply from leftover scraps.
It is supremely squishy!
PARTY ANIMAL!
The two-tone mullet... the crochet top.. the exposed skull.. this guy's got it all!
invite this friend to your party in the shop here
We all joke a lot about how knitting is math in disguise, and we all know how gauge and the rule of three are so good together, but I was not prepared for how much I'd regret not being able to calculate least common multiples better.
For all your colourwork and pattern repeat needs. Thanks Wikipedia.
GUESS WHO DIDN'T NOTICE THE COMEDIC POTENTIAL OF THE MOTHER OF ALL NUMBERS HERE BEING 420
[descending slide whistle]
boop
something a bit different! original pattern and hand knit~
I dropped all my other projects to finish this in time for pride and it's finally done!! I wanted some cool aro merch (since I have absolutely nothing so far), and what's cooler than dragons?
The heart shaped flag was embroidered on afterward, and if you look closely, there are a bunch of tiny flags woven into the border.
My original intention was to use this as a long patch for the back of my denim jacket. But it makes a pretty cool necklace?? If only I didn't have to chop off half the design to realize my vision... (I have yet to commit, this is just tied on with a big ol bulky knot in the back)
She's done!
An Eastern Woodlands fingerwoven belt, 30 total strands of linen and cotton blend yarn. The pattern is a diagonal stripe, with braided fringe on the ends.
Some help please
I took this picture back in 2017. I had permission from the woman who owns the shawl and unfortunately when I asked for a pattern she said it was a gift. I have searched FOR YEARS for this pattern. It’s not your typical granny square or willow granny square. And I have no experience with making items without a pattern of some sort. If anyone knows who made this or what the pattern is I would greatly appreciate the help. Please and thank you!
Chain 6. Slip stitch ring closed.
Chain up 4 (one for a single, 3 for a chain jump). *single into the ring, chain 3*. repeat till 8 chain jumps. ss into top of first chain.
3 single crochet into every chain jump. ss into first single to close.
Chain 1 (replace single), *chain 3, single back into the space you started (cluster support) into middle of the 3 singles, chain 3 (jump chain), single into the next center of the 3 singles. Repeat till end. ss shut.
First scallop/cluster row: You most likely need to slip stitch over to the start of a support and then you'll need to do three chains (or a single and a chain, you do you) to represent the first double crochet. You're going to be making a Cluster of 5 doubles into the cluster supports. You're then putting an anchor of a single crochet into the middle of the jump chain. repeat till end. Slip stitch shut in top of first double. 8 clusters total.
Another prep row: Repeating cluster supports and jump chains - cluster supports go into the top of clusters and there's a jump chain anchored beside the anchor from the previous row. So: work a single just behind the slip stitch you made, which will be beside the last anchor stitch. Chain 3. Single into the center of the cluster. Chain 3. Single into the same spot (cluster support). Chain 3. Single just to the left of the anchor stitch on the previous row. Repeat supports and jump chains till end of row. Slip stitch shut.
Cluster 7 row. This time you're doing two anchors with a chain 3 between them: Slip stitch into the chain 3 space. Chain 1 (first single). *7 double crochet into the chain support. Single crochet into chain 3 space. Chain 3. Single crochet into next chain 3 space.* repeat till end. You'll end with a chain three and slip stitch into the first single.
This row is prep to start squaring the circle. You're going to have to do something slightly tricky to start this row. Slip stitch backwards into the previous chain 3 space. *You're going to work a V stitch (double crochet, chain one, double crochet into same space) into this space and then work forward again. Chain 3. Single into center of cluster. Chain 3. V stitch into previous row chain 3 space. Single into center of cluster. Chain 3. Single into same place as last single. (Cluster support). Chain 3.* Repeat till end. (So to be clear, 4 cluster supports with each side having two sets of v stitches separated by an anchor in the top of the not corner clusters.) Slip stitch closed into top of first double crochet.
Single crochet. Chain 3. Single into next chain space. Chain 3. Single into next chain space. Chain 3. Single into middle of V stitch. Chain 3. Single into next chain stitch. 9 doubles into cluster support (corner). Repeat single into each chain space and center of V's with three chains between each till next corner. Repeat till you're back at start. Remember, no chains between corner cluster and the singles next to the corner.Pay attention that you don't just jump past where you should end the row by slip stitching into the first single. It's very easy to find yourself half a row further down doing more chain 3's and singles.
Almost done. Slip stitch into the middle of the chain 3 space. Single crochet. Chain 3, Single into next chain 3 space (x3) Chain 3. We're about to work the corner. Single crochet into the second double of the cluster. Chain 3. Double crochet into center stitch of cluster. Chain 2. Double crochet into same space. Chain 3 and single crochet into the next to last double. Chain three and single into every chain 3 space till next corner. Repeat till end. Ss shut into first single.
Final round! The easy row! Three doubles into every space on the sides.3 doubles, chain 2, 3 doubles into the corners. Slip stitch shut. And we're DONE.
